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Show REPOR r ON THI THE THEa ! RUSSIANS 1 . . r . . . . . 0 . 1 . 1J a J White _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ INSTALLMENT TWOWe TWO TWOWe We get a quick first 1irst look at Moscow MosCOW Mos Mosow cow ow Wide Incredibly empty streets.idewalks streetssidewalks streets streetsidewalks idewalks .idewalks sidewalks . full tuI1 of hurriing hur1fng hurrying ' ) shabby shabbypeople shabbypeople shabbypeople people walking walkfng past dtogy dingy shops In Indllapidated indilapidated Indilapidated dllapidated dilapidated buildings bwldlngs Monotonous Monotonousrow Monotonousrows Monotonousrow row rows * . of ot uninteresting uninterestmg apartments apartmentsconcrete apartmentsconcrete apartmentsconcrete concrete beehiveshlch beehives \ which \\hlch hlch sometimes sometimesmake sometimesmake sometimesmake make an effort at beauty in oma orna omamentation ornamentation ornamentation mentation But It is halt half halfheartedlike hearted heartedl1ke heartedlike l1ke like the architecture archltecture of an inst Intl Intltution Institutlon ! tution . , . Now we come to Spaso House Housewhich Housewhich Housewhich which before the 1917 RevolutlOn Revolution RevolutlOnwas Revolutionwas Revolutionwas was built by a beet-sugar beet sugar - - - baron baronand baronand baronand and Is one of a number of such suchpalaces suchpalaces suchpalaces palaces in Moscow which wluch once be- be belonged belonged be belonged - - longed either elther to the merchant prmce prince prmceor princeor princeor or the Romanov noblll nobility ! ) The Bol Bol.hevlks Bolsheviks Bolcbeviks .hevlks hevlks sheviks . ha\ ha haie hae hale \ e turned them over to toforeign toforeign toforeign foreign governments for tor embassIes embassIesInside embassiesInside embassiesInside Inside all aU are giant glant forests of mar marble marble marble ble columns from the tops of which whichlike , , l1ke like grapevines trail the marble marblebalustrades marblebalustrades marblebalustrades balustrades ofstaircases of staircases They are areas areas areas as drafty as movie sets and as cozy cozyto cozyto cozyto to live In as Grand Central 'Station Station 'StationIn ' 'StationIn StationIn ' tat1on tat1onIn In the back yard of each I If is . a hen henhouse henhouse henhouse henhouseIt house houseIt It wa was . in one such august hall hall hallIts , , , Its spaciousness spaClOusness lightly 11ghtly salted downrfa down , " ' \ " " , - " i \ 1\ 1 \ \ \\tf tf itf 1't.rf " i . . 1 ' . , rfa ' . < ' \ /'t.rf t.rf 't.rf trf . / . 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' " - ? 3h A AFt Ft FtMay May Day nay flay In Moscowwith Moscow with curved gilt gllt furniture turll1ture furmture that ErIc ErIcJohnston EricJohnston ErieJohnston Johnston held his Ius first press con conference conference conterence conterenceThe ference ferenceThe The reporters plead tor for bi weekly weeklypress weeklypress weeklypress press conferences For the SO\ SO Sos SOiet SovietGovernment \ iet let ietGovernment letGovernment Government has hal promised he can canlIee cansee cansee lIee see everything he desires and unt until untilhe untilhe he has been in Moscow tor for a wh while whilehe whilehe e ehe he can cant t conceive how closely for forelgll foreign toreign elgll eign reporters are held down how how.eldom howseldom howseldom .eldom eldom seldom . they are allowed to leave leaveMoscow leaveMoscow leaveMoscow Moscow how little httle they see or hearBut hearBut hear hearBut But now Johnston Is off to call on onMlkoyan onMikoyan onMikoyan Mlkoyan Mikoyan an Intimate of Stalin anda and a . top Bolshevik " , who ho Is People s sCommissar sCommissar sCommissar Commissar tor for Foreign Trade our ourofficial ourofficial ourofficial official hostJohnston hostJohnston host hostJohnston Johnston returns from the Krem Krem11n Kremlin Kremlln 11n lin very much Impressed by Mikoy Mikoyan Mikoyan an . an . . Highly Intelligent . . He d be beprominent beprominent beprominent prominent In any country In Amer Amertca Amertea Amerlea tca tea be he d be a big blg businessman or orindustrIalist orindustrialist orIndustrialist industrIalist I told him that . He Heleemed Heseemed Heteemed leemed seemed pleasedTonight pleasedTonight pleased pleasedTonight Tonight our Russian Russlan hosts with withKirllov withKirby withKirilov Kirllov Kirby In charge take us to a con coneert concert concert eert cert In Tschalkovsky Tschaikovsky Hall Hall , , , which in inNew inNew InNew New York would be Camegle Carnegie Hall HalLI . I look at tha the hall which .eem eem seems . eem . well wellbuilt wellbuilt wellbuilt built but a . little too ornate Thl'n Thln Then Thenat Thl'nat Thenat ' at the crowd It i li is . Intent on thestage the .tage tage stage . the.tage tage and la in is the half halt light 1000 looks looksshabby lookthabby * .habby habby shabby . 1000.habby except tor for the red epaulets epauletson on the officers officer * . uniforms unllorms Most of theIr oftheir head heads . are clipped Prusslan.ltyle Prussianstyle Prussian Prusslan ttyle .ltyle ltyle style . ttyleEach .ltyleEach styleEach Each act on the stage 11 is I * Intro intro- introduced Introduced Introduced - - duced by an tttraetiv attractive brunette in ina ina Ina a simply cut dres dren dress * of gleaming gleamingwhite gleamingwhite gleamingwhite white satin By contrast with that thatshabby thatshabby thatlhabby shabby audience . she .he he li 11 is a dream dreamprincess dreamprincess dreamprincess performersThli performersThi performersThis princess and so are the performers Thi This , drab.0ciahlSt drab . socialist .0ciahlSt 0ciahlSt audience audlence stares staresat staresat at the stage as . though It \ were some someunattainable someunattainable someunattainable unattainable fairyland of which whichthey they whichthey glimpseA ghmpseA get just an hours hour s a glimpse ghmpse A male pianist has just taken his hisbow hisbows bow bows . and retired to the wing wings * . and they andthey are now clearing away his hisgrand hisgrand HowWell crand grand piano for the next act act . . How ? Well Well , . , the slender brunette In the thewhite thewhite thewhite white satin I8tin dress drell is 11 pushing ! It t a feat featmade featmade teatmade made possible because It I is . on cast cut- cut cast- cutor castors castors - - or ors . Later alter after watching many many.lender manyslender lender .lender slender . trunksand women heave pianos piano . trunk trunks . and crates crate . around around , altnost almo.t almost , , we become al ButBOW ButIlOW Butnow mo.t mot most . as . caucused calloused as 81 Russians Russian . But IlOW now eachother la in the dark we look at each other wordlessly and smile .mlle mlle . . . Now the lights llghtJ come up and we go weBO wego out Into the th great foyer where wherethe the Russian audience Is indulging In Indulgingin the pleasant European custom of a ola ofa between et.w etw et.wen . en acts ICtJ promenade ve vs v never . seen .een een _ Uktt likeIt likeft anything like Uk < tt It ft . m Ill fitting ftttlng clothes dothes poorly cut | cutoften often 1iasbJ flashy ' but . tawdrymaterials tawdrymaterial alway always " of " tawdry "wury wury " material materials , . materialsThia Thia This ' 1 Ii & 1 * the Tschalkovsky Tachaikovsky HaU Hall Concert ConcertHall where . topolnclals topofficial .eab eab seats usually go to top olnclals official , 01 or : to crack Stakhanovlte Stakhanovite 'Worker Worker workers Stakhanovlte'Worker Stakhanoviteworkers ' . who let get high wartime 'Wage Wage wages ' . But their clothes can t com corn cornWorkers pare compare with those of Workerspare a meeting of the Worker Workers . Alliance in inmy my home townof town of Emporla Emporia KansSl Kanaas at the bottom bottomof of our depression Yet Ye ' ! Carnegle Carnegie Hall seldom offer offers . a better than programtorn the one that we heard Program ? on the ne neI the.tage thestage . .tage tage stage stageI .tageI almostas I note nota that the crowd 1 1almost Is fa almost as . poorly fed as It Is poorly dressed dressedThe The Red Army officers are robust nough snougb robustnough robusteDOuih robustsnougb eDOuih . , . But too many of these Rua Ru . slan sIan aian women have bad complexions complexionswhich complexionswhich whIch seem to indicate mdIcate lack of vIta vItamms vitamin vitanuns mms min , These people in their twen twentIes twenties twenties tIes and thirties thirtles were children dur during during durIng ing the hard days after the revolu revolutIon revolution revolution tIon years of malnutrition malnutntion show intheir in intheIr intheir theIr bad bone structure No'oon No \'oon 'oon oon won 'oonder wonder \ ' wonder der . we v.e ve three avenge aver\ge aver ge average ' \ sized slzed Amer Americans Americans Amerleans icans stand half hail a head higher hlgher thaT than thanthe thanthe } the Red Army officers who parade paradethere paradethere paradethere paradethereAlthough there thereAlthough Although Red Army officers must muststIll muststill muststill stIll spend some time in the ranks ranksschools ranksschools ranksschools schools like lJke Annapolis Annapolls and West WestPoint WestPoint WestPoint Point have been established where whereI wherethey wherethey I they give promising proIIllsing youngstcrs youngsters youngstcrsI youngsterstraining youngsterstraining I traInIng toward commissions commISSlons Also Alsothe Alsothe Alsothe the Suvarov cadet schools have re recently recently recently cently been opened admitting adlmttlng sons sonsof sonsof sonsof of officers and orphans as young youngas as eight years oldThese oldThese old oldThese These officers in the foyer of the theconcert theconcert theconcert concert hall are apparently on lca leave leaveand leaveand ve veand and except for the fact that they theyare theyare theyare are under sized are fine loohlng looking loohlngmen lookingmen lookingmen men They are usually blue eyed eyedblonds eyedblonds eyedblonds blonds with high cheekbones and andthelr andtheir andtheir thelr their unsmiling unsmillng Slav faces and andclipped andclipped andclipped clipped bulletheads constantly re renund remind remind nund mind me of old time Prussian Prusslan of officers offacers offleers ficers facers as they solemnly patrol the thefoyer thefoyer thefoyer foyer with these shabby undemour undernour undemourished undernourished undemourIshed ished womenBut womenBut women womenBut But now our hosts tear us away awayfrom awayfrom awayfrom from this Ws revolving revolvmg crowd to a room roomnear roomnear roomnear near our box where a little httle between betweenthe betweenthe betweenthe the acts supper is being bemg served in inour Inour Inour our honor by the director of thethea thetheater the thea theater ter This truly oriental hospitality has hasnotlung hasnothing hasnothing notlung nothing to do with Lenin or the theo theory theory theory ry of Surplus Values These people peoplemay peoplemay peoplemay may be socialists soclal1sts but they are also alsoRussIans alsoRussians alsoRussians RussIans As such they inherit an aneven aneven aneven even stronger tradition from the theMongolian theMongolian theMongolian Mongolian Emperor Genghis Genghls Khan Khanthan Khanthan Khanthan than they do from Karl Kat Kasl : ! MarxLookmg MarxLooking Marx MarxLooking Looking Lookmg around the hall I wonder wonderwhere wonderwhere wonderwhere where they keep the old people All Allthese Allthese Allthese these faces are young in their theirtwenties theirtwenties theirtwenties twenties and thirties So were werethose werethose werethose those on the streets this afternoon afternoonWhat afternoonWhat afternoonWhat What became of Russians Russlans who whoshould whoshould whoshould should now be in their thelI ' fifties SlX six SlXties sixties sixties ties or seventies ? Now back in inAmerica InAmerica inAmerica America I still stlll wonderIn wonderIn wonder wonderIn In Russia if it you decide to move moveyou moveyou moveyou you must go through about as many manyformalities manyformalities manyformalities formalities as you \ would ould need to get getmarried getmarried getmarried married In Moscow you don t just lust justarnve lustarrive justarrive arnve arrive in a taxi taX ! ( tor for there are none noneat ) : at the hotel of your choice For Forelgners Foreignera Foreigners elgners eignera stay at one of three hotels hotelsbut hotelsbut hotelsbut but they are the best Moscow af of affords offords atfords fords except for the Moskva which whichhas whichhas whichhas has been built bwlt since the RevolutIon RevolutIonand Revolutionand Revolutionand and Is 11 reserved for highranIung highranking high ranIung ranking ranIungcommunIsts rankingcommunists rankingcommunists communIsts Important government governmentOffiClSIs governmentofficials governmentofficials OffiClSIs officials ( which is the same thing thingwell ) well known artists and top Red RedArmy RedArmy RedArmy Army officers Its 111 public rooms room . are arein arein areIn in an uninteresting classic style stylewhich stylewhich stylewhich which is best represented in Aew AewYork ew ewYork ewYork York by the Grand Central StationIntourlst StationIntourist Station StationIntourist Intourist Intourlst is 11 ii a government owned ownedtravel ownedtravel ownedtravel travel agency and you can start startthmking startthinking startthinking thmking thinking Cooks or the American Ex Express Express Express press because in peacetime It ar arranges arranges arranges ranges tours with hotel reservations reservationsand reservationsand reservationsand and meals But In Russia It h81 has h81complete hascomplete hascomplete complete char&e chare charge chare ! [ & of the movements movementsand movementsand movementsand and creature comforts of practical practically ly all foreigners and you cannotstir cannotstir cannot stir Ur without itFor It ItFor . For here It is I 1 * . Impossible to drop dropinto dropinto dropInto into a restaurant tor for a casual meal mealgo mealgo mealgo go to a hotel tor for a night or climb on ona ona ona a train for a trip A Russian be- be belongs belongs be belongs - - longs to his job He and hi his . family familyusually familyusually familyusually usually sleep in an apartment house housewhich housewhich housewhich which his factory owns He prob prob- probabl7 prob- prob probably probably - - ably abl7 eats In hi his . factory dining dinmg room room roomfood , , food farm.His farmHis raised on his factory s . farm . . HII His children attend a day nurserywhich nurserywhich nursery which It maintains maintain . They play playgames playgames playgames games and go to movies In it Its , cul culture culture culture ture palace and they go on vaca vaea vacaUon vacation vaeabons bons tion , . when It can spare them on train trains ontrains ontrain . which it designates to resorts resortsand resortsand resortsand and workers homes which wluch It con troIs trols controls controIs trolsForeigners " Foreigners Foreignen can function In W this thisrigidly thisrigidly . rIgIdly ordered world only If It some somestate somestate somestate state organization provides provIde . ! for or their theirliving livIng space transportation food foodand foodand foodand and ration coupons coupon . which Is 11 where whereIntourist whereIntourlst Intourlst Intourist comes in . In . . The Soviet Government realizes realizesthat realizesthat realizesthat fromtha fromthe that It cannot force foreigners foreignen from the Western countries down to the thesub thesub thesub whichIs sub WPA standard of living which Is the lot of most Soviet citizen citizens . Consequently citizensConsequently It accord accords . foreIgners foreIgnersprIvlleges foreignersprivileges foreignersprivileges prIvlleges privileges which in the Western Westernworld Westernworld Westernworld decenciesbut world are only common decencle decencies . but which are |