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Show Men Men's Mens ' s Fashion 6 ' 'A A 'Authorities Authorities Authorities9Filtd uthorities ' Find Their Clients Stubborn ; 1 Colorful Clothes Clotltes Still Stitt Taboo TabooStylists TabooI TabooStylists I Stylists Fight Centuryor Centuryof Century of or 'Drabness Drabness ' ' to Deck Mere MereMale MereMale Male in Modern Raiment This Spring ; Mild l\Illd l Illd \ Green Hues Win FavorFirst Favor FavorFirst First off , there's theres ' nothing nothmg wrong with that blue serge Sun Sun- Sunday Sunday Sunday - day go to meetin meetm ' suit But it's its ' spring , and as usual the theIrrepressIble theirrepressible theirrepressible IrrepressIble men's mens ' fashion arbiters must have their sayFor sayFor say sayFor For 10 years this valiant crew has been trying trymg to make makethe makethe makethe the American male conscious of style and color , but the theAmerIcan theAmerican theAmerican AmerIcan male is stubborn It's Its ' expensive enough , he says saysto , to keep the wife fashionably dressed without being bemg a clothes clotheshorse clotheshorse clotheshorse horse yourself But in m spite of himself the master of the theI thehome thehome thehome I home is becomu becoming g somethl1 something ' g _ of a peacock , blossoming blossommg out each eacn spring sprmg with more COl- COl COlorful colorful coi-'orful coi 'orful orful - ' orful orfulsUItS suits , shirts , ties and andhats andhats andhats hats Advance showings of ofclothmg ofclothing ofclothing clothmg clothing in m 1n the MerchandIse MerchandiseMart MerchandiseMart show showthe showthe showthe Mart , Chicago , plainly plamly the trendGeorge trend trendGeorge trendGeorge George Bryan Brummell Brummellbetter Brummellbetter Brummellbetter better known as Beau , dIed dIedIn diedin diedin In 1840 Since Smce then the pre pre- prevallmg prevailing prevailing - vailing vallmg colors of men's mens men'sclothes men'sclothes men'sclothes mensclothes ' clothes , as ifin if in m mournmg mourning mourninghave , have been somber black blackdark blackdark blackdark dark blue dull gray and subdued subduedbrowns subduedbrowns subduedbrowns browns During Durmg Beau Brummell s sWetIme slifetime slifetime WetIme lifetime and before men s fashIOns fashionsin fashIOnsm m in England France and colomal colonial colomalAmerIca colonialAmerica colonialAmerica AmerIca approached the apex of ofperfectIon ofperfection ofperfection perfectIon but as man became becamemore becamemore becamemore more interested 1l1terested in m making a Ilvmg living Ilvmghe livinghe livinghe he lost interest 1I1terest in his clothes Now Nowsay Nowsay Nowsay say the fashion experts we re reemergmg reemerging reemerging reemergingStill emergmg emerging emergmgStill emergingstill Still In InfancyTbls InfancyThis Infancy InfancyThis This Tbls trend however is in m the in incubatIOn incubation incubation cubatIOn stage So timid tImld is roan man m in mhIS inhis inhis hIS dress life and the use of color colorthat colorthat colorthat that he limits hmlts his indulgence to tobrIghtly tobrightly tobrightly brIghtly hued pajamas a red bath bathlng bathing bathing lng ing su sut t and an occasional green greennecktIe greennecktie greennecktie necktIe The Tbe designers of th s year s ssprmg sspring sspring sprmg spring and summer clothes had con contemplated contemplated contemplated templated bright green to smash smashprecedent smashprecedent smashprecedent precedent but the men rebelled The ThefashIOn Thefashion Thefashion fashIOn experts then settled tor for off offshadcs offshades offshades shadcs shades like bluish green and grey greyIsh greyish greyish Ish gi gleen een a few group stripes and andheather andheather andheather heather str pes Considering Consldermg the thehand thehand thehand hand cap it was a signal vIctoryTbere victoryThere victory victoryThere There Tbere sample s ample precedent prccedent tor for men s sfash sfash sfash fash ons though let s hope the Twent Thent T\\ T Ten Then \ en ent t eth century male doesn t become becomeso so vain vam as that of the EIghteenth EIghteenthcen'11ry Eighteenthcentur Eighteenthcentury cen'11ry cen11ry centur ' whose wardrobe is de desCrIbed described described sCrIbed by the historian H Denn s sBradley sBradley sBradley Bradley At least six coats of col colored colored colored ored velv velvet .t t < . and white sat n trImmed trImmedI trimmedwith trimmedwith I With gold and silver lace with per perhaps pernaps perhaps haps naps one made in m a plainer plamer planner fashion fashionfor fashionfor fashionfor for use on mournfuloccas mournful occas ons WIth WIththese Withthese Withthese these he would have the choice of ofperhaps ofperhaps ofperhaps perhaps a dozen long waIstcoats waIstcoatsmade waistcoatsmade waistcoatsmade made in m blue satin satm gold brocade brocadegreen brocadegreen brocadegreen green silk white satin scarlet black blacksIlk blacksilk blacksilk sIlk with fringes frmges all laced andem and em embro embro embro bro dered in m colored s silks h.s hs . His ward wardrobe wardrobe wardrobe robe also con contained tamed nine nme or ten palrs pairs palrsof pairsof pairsof of breeches of velvet satin satm and andi andcloth andcloth i cloth halt hal half ! a dozen three cornered corneredhats corneredhats corneredhats hats s silver ver laced scalloped laced lacedwith lacedwith lacedwith with gold point pomt d Espagne some someWith somewith somewith With gold binding bmdmg and some bound boundplam boundplain boundplam plam plain three dozen ruffled shirts and andthree andthree andthree three dozen lace neck cloths and a alike alike alike like number of white silk black sJIk silk silkand , , and fine cotton stockings cambrIc cambrIcand cambricand cambricand and s silk k handkerchiefs galore shoes shoesadorned shoesadorned shoesadorned adorned with buckles set with dla dia dlamonds diamonds diamonds monds silver sllver handled swords sil sal silwr salver silver wr ver mounted pistols and as varied a acho acho acho cho ce cc of jewelry as his means meanswould meanswould meanswould would allowBeau allowBeau allow allowBeau Beau Brnmmell Brummell Brooght Brought OrderLater OrderLater Order OrderLater Later in the century Beau Brum Brummell Brummall Brummell mell mall introduced mtroduced a semblance of taste tasteto tasteto tasteto to this profusion ot of color Employ Employing Employing Employing ing fewer hues and blending blendmg them themexpertly themexpertly themexpertly expertly he strove for quiet good goodtaste goodtaste goodtaste taste and introduced what is con considered considered considered sidered today to be the essence of ofstylethe ofstylethe ofstyle style-the style the - - the ability to wear clothes clotheswith clotheswith clotheswith with an unconscious flaIrAmerIcan flairAmerican flair flairAmerican American men s clothing hasn t talways talways talways always been dull Wh While e the early earlyPUrItan earlyPuritan earlyPuritan PUrItan fathers were straight laced lacedthey lacedthey lacedthey they were sufficiently sufficlently style conscIOUS conscIOUSto consciousto to clothe themselves tastefullyBegmnmg tastefullyBeginning tastefully tastefullyBeginning Beginning Begmnmg m In the 1850s lSSOs and mflu influ mfluenced influenced mfluenced enced by the industrial indus1-Ial indus1 Ial indust ! - sal revolution in inEngland inEngland inEngland England and America Amenca men s clothesand clothesand clothes clothesand -and and - and women s too of course-re course re courserefiected courserefleeted course - - refleeted fiected fleeted the drabness of the times tunes timesMach tunesMach tunesMach Mach nery tended to standardize all alldomaIns alldomains alldomains domaIns of o1 1 fe not omitting omlttmg fash fashIon fashion fashion fashionNow Ion IonNow Now that Victorlanism Victorianism has passed passedfashIon passedfashion passedfashion fashIon experts think thmk man will be beeome betome betome eome tome emancipated as did women womenearher womenearlier womenearlier earher earlier in 111 the century Take it or orleave orleave orleave leave It it , , here s a thumbnail sketch sketchof sketchof sketchof of modern men s fashions ObvIous Obviously Obviously 1'1 11 ly ' they were not designed to replace replacethe replacethe replacethe the time tested overallMixed overallMixed overall overallMixed Mixed suits and trousers are fash fashionable fashionable fashionable ionable with liberal use of color colorsuch colorsuch colorsuch such as dark green coat with wIllow wallow wIllowgreen wallowgreen willowgreen green slacks Right now big ling yam yarn yamtweed yarntweed yamtweed tweed is the rage on the PacIfic PacIficcoast Pacificcoast Pacificcoast coast which is becoming the cre creatlve crealive ereative atlve alive center in both men s and worn wornen wornen wornen en s sports wear Slack suits sults may mayrun mayrun mayrun run the range rance of color and fabrics fabricsWith fabricswith fabricswith With rayons cottons linen hopsack hopsacking ing twills and poplins poplms holding holdmg the theedge theedge theedge theedgeCoats edge edgeCoots edgeCoats Coats Coots Become ComfortableTbat ComfortableThat Comfortable ComfortableThat That Tbat the prim dressed up look of of10 10 or 15 years ago is 1S as passing can be canbe seen in topcoats They re com tom comfortable tomfortable corntortable fortable loose and casual casual , , usually usuallymade usuallymade usuallymade made of fleeces Shetland shetiand and thev chev thevlot theviot chevlot iot lot Popular off shades it if the de desIgn design design sIgn is herringbone herrmgbone plaid or small smallaU smallall smallaUover aU all over effect erect are between brown brownand brownand brownand and black , blackand black , and white gray grayand grayand grayand and blue or green and gray grayThe The newest in rainwear ramwear is the gab gab- gabardine gabardine gabardine - - withthe ardine or poplin coat developed with withthe withthe the use of a new water repellent ) process which not only sheds ram rambut rambut rambut but defies defles the laundryman or dry drycleaner drycleaner drycleanerHats drycleaner cleaner cleanerHats Hats of Tyrolean shapes . , , wIth wIthsharp withsharp withsharp sharp curl brim and conical comcal crown crownbedecked crownbedecked crownbedecked bedecked with trimmings trImmmgs like Ilke pms pins pmsbadger pinsbadger pinsbadger badger brushes braided and corded cordedbands cordedbands cordedbands bands are increasingly mcreasmgly popular popularStraw popularStraw popularStraw Straw hats next summer will wall be besoft besoft besoft soft imitatmg Imltatmg imitating the felts As for col color color color or green is showing showmg up prommentlyShIrts prominentlyShirts prominently prommently prominentlyShirts Shirts for spring sprmg and summer will willhave willhave willhave have 1 ghter grounds with sImple sImplestrIpes simplestripes simplestripes strIpes more widely spaced Collar CollarI Collarmodels Collarmodels I models are lower in m front with a amodera amoderate amoderate modera moderate te spread to the pomts points pointsLighter pointsLighter Lighter Ighter fabrics are the rule and andcreen andgreen andgreen creen green in m several shades particularly'IQ particularly 'IQ IQ ' r rY Y 1 1J 1c 1f J $ ; particularlyr f A c f ' fd d r , - , sa SS TODAY'S TODAYS ' TASIlION FASHION TASIlIONPLATEA FASHIONPLATEA FASHIONPLATE PLATE-A PLATE A - A typical typ.cal typcal . 1939 1939sprmg 1939spring 1939spring sprmg spring suit , well tailored tmlored tmloredand tailoredand and andcolorful andcolorful andcolorful colorful , the type of ofapparel apparel apparelstyle apparelstyle apparelstyle style authorities authorlt.es authorltes arithoraies . would IDOuld like 1l.e 1le lilze , . topopularize t tpopularize to o , popularise popularize in .n n . their "emanci emanci "emanc emanc "emanci- "emancipation "emancipation " . . - pation pabon " campaign campargn . . . |