Show NEW NOW BLOSSOM FORTH I Are re- re reMade Made of Thin Materials Ma- Ma Aerials and Are Worn Under Silk Sweaters Sweaters' Sweaters t or or Thin Coats of pf Silk and Serge See g r Rittenhouse By Anne NEW YORK May 20 20 This This is js the the season for lor blouses They are needed for or a multitude of reasons reasons One maydo may q Jo do without them in the winter wL and look askance at t them in the autumn autumn demand but late spring and summer hem Chem frock has not rot vanished van- van vanished The piece one-piece t fished into the warm summer air beca because because be- be the separate blouse has come ca cause se into kinto fashion again it appears to be beI I necessary to have both even in the average wardrobe There is always fa fa a struggle in the mind of the woman who is not plentifully endowed with 1 clothes money as to how she should choose between a a. suit and a a. one piece one piece frock for constant service and probably ably the married man put it correctly for all women when he said that his his wife brought the subject up to him semiannually every day ay for a fortnight invariably decided in the end send according to her own desires and andI andt was dissatisfied about he her choice no noi i I t matter what it was for the rest reat of the season the choice K Ii This discontent about Hof ones one's clothes does not limit itself 5 lo to the decision between a suit and a ai i piece one frock frock it it spreads its Us peevish tentacles over the entire years year's out out- ut- ut fit in clothes f Were you ever really satisfied satisfied with the the costumes you bought Have you ever known anyone who was Isn't it the the- common thing to say that on one thought that such and such a suit be satisfactory but that that- it Wha has not been That a gown didn't fit after all That a hat wasn't becoming becom become ing to 9 u change in the coiffure or that hat the frock that one bad had the least respect for turned out to be the foun foun- elation dation stone o of ones wardrobe C Colorful Blouses Ar Are Here Here There is no remedy evidently for this state of affairs It comes about through the same rule irule that governs Everything In in human life me which is that it is not possible to find out what one likes until on one has tried it for a substantial period of time Women buy clothes because they like dike U e their appearance or because their price fits the purse or or because they are are advocated advocated as the thelast last word in fashjon fash- fash on jon from Paris by someone who wants t. t 10 td sell the garments regardless of of Whether hether or not they suit the person o whom they are sold The saleswoman saleswoman saleswoman sales sales- woman is a commercial being Even Jt she f-she she is an artist she must suppress ress hat side of or her temperament in order o be a success If she can combine lie two she is a rare being and can I command her price in any commerCial commercial commercial commer commer- cial center One of the advantages o of blouse Buying using is that the average woman can get half a dozen t to td suit her different eeds meeds and moods This week they are unrolled before her like a abril- abril brilliant bril bril- brilliant li nt never ending carpet The design design de- de sign and the color Constantly change They hey have reached a degree of variety va va- and gaiety that has not been touched in several seasons One must really go back two decades in sartorial sar sar- tonal history to find the equal of ofU U the e blouses of today as far as color colora is a concerned In that day women were wont to wear these separate blouses without coats and they were considered entirely smart for informal informal in in- in formal l evening wear ear with a black skirt kirl Those were the days when the woman did not consider it n to put herself into a diaphanous diaphanous diaphanous di di- garment as as' as soon as the night lights were turned on We W-e look back upon those days now with a shriek of horror when we think how fearfully and wonderfully y we e were dressed but if that fashion I w were re to descend up upon us we would regard it with pleasure sure One of the admirable laws of human nature is that we accept placidly what we have often rebelled against bitterly and if toe we w are taunted with being inconsistent ent or or- of a light and variable character character char char- acter lacking the foundation stone of persistent l loyalty in our likes and dislikes it is altogether satisfying to fall back upon Emersons Emerson's answer that consistency is the vice of small minds Bl Blouses uses Like Patchwork Quilts Jn ln n tho those e days dars two decades ago wHen women considered themselves quite smartly dressed in a pointed blouse of brilliant taffeta and a long black skirt these s 's separate p rate garments garments h here were ere usually built buil fr from mj opaque mat ma- ma I t rials Even the candy striped morning morn- morn ng ing shirt waists that were bursting over oyer the horizon were of linen and I cotton I ache The he former was made with superior supe- supe the latter with masculine masculine mas mas- culine severity This gulf gull of difference difference differ- differ I ence was placed between en them to how that one was made made for gaiety and aill the other for activity f During puring the twenty years that have elapsed lapsed the s separate parate blouse has run through a long tong gamut of changes It fell r lI into the hands of the needle needle- workers who skillful and unskillful uSed up their leisure time and much that should have been d devoted voted to better bet ter t r purposes In ir applying the methods of oft oft- making a patchwork quilt to a a shirt waist It was a hodgepodge a series of broken lines IInes a vague surface surice sur sure face ice ace built up from hand embroidery fj squares and in mo mounds of fine tucking tuck tuck- ing ng embroidered eyelets and French rench dots Jots short and long ends of several sev eral oral kinds of lace indiscriminately blended l rolled roIled and whipped to irregular irregular irregular ular p patches of machine embroidery jj This may appear to be a severe arraignment ar ar- arraignment r of the once beloved blouses pf of another day but it is given in the sincere si 1 ere hope that this fashion and this needlework will never return Although the straight stiff sailor that was immortalized by bv Charles Dana ana Gibson has come back into fashion the mannish blouse has not come with it The face beneath the nat hat and above the blouse which Mr Gibson drew and which has gone into history as the typical American faces face b has s not been met on the highroads and byways of this continent in recent re- re cen cent t years There are still hundreds of women say that they were the artists artist's I model 9 odel eJ and who will cherish this truth I or 1 fiction down to their graves grave but p I t J r I. I V 1 I i I 1 f fU 4 r. r U I i iS S 1 I J Rt t. t I IWhite White tulle trimmed with pink roses roses' and black velvet ribbon whose faces bear no more resemblance resemblance I blance to the original drawing than do tI the e faces faces' of the girls who are arenow arenow arenow now taking up the sailor hat that was a sign and symbol of or his bis work And yet who knows but the face will return with the fashion A woman by taking thought may not add an inch to her stature but by taking a bit more thought she can surely change chang the shape e expression 1 and and complexion of he her he- fa face e. e Possibly Possibly bly It might be better to put the blame or or the praise on cosmetics instead instead instead in in- stead of thought unless on one perceives the atlie fa fact t that an admirable use use of the 1 for former must be governed by an Intelligent intelligent intel Intel- use of the latter A bit of red at the end of the lips and the mouth is no longer melancholy a slight touch of black to the eyebrows to straighten ten a line and confidence takes the place of weakness a careful care careful ful distribution of pink powder and anda a touch of f rouge take rouge take away the sol sol- of despair and give the glow of or buoyancy Not that hat these hese things thins are to be recommended recommended rec rec- for they are weapons so dangerous that they they are like swords when put into the hands of the untrained un trained At any rate the straight stiff sailor has returned to fashion with and without the face that Mr Gibson put under under- it but the masculine shirtwaist shirtwaist shirt waist with its stiffened cuffs and collar is not even dimly indicated in inthe inthe I the new fashions Middy Blouse as a Model One of f the features brought out by bythe bythe bythe the masculine shirt waist is kept in fashion this is the front fastening For several years there has been no rebellion against this dictation of fashion because it was founded on comfort It is never possible to say with emphasis emphasis emphasis em em- that women have rejected ted any fashion forever but blouses that fasten down the back with a multitude multitude multitude multi multi- tude of buttons hooks and eyes have been shelved for several seasons because because because be be- cause of the irritation they provoked They are not as objectionable on loose garments as on those that are boned and today we have learned to todo todo todo do without stiff stiff lining rigid boning and tight fitting bodices so so it is to tobe tobe to tobe be hoped that if the fastening in the back back is is revived with any strength it will ally itself to the present fashion fashion Even the casual observer can see that fashion Is js wavering for here and there one sees admirable blouses that fasten in the back but between the two fashions there has about a compromise blouse which is isI I given an enthusiastic welcome It is modeled on the well known middy blouse it is slipped over the head without fastening front or back through a large V-shaped V neck opening opening open open- ing and is then pulled Into place at atthe atthe atthe the waist by a drawstring i The original Is in blue and white I striped linen lawn of an extra fine quality and the only applied trimming trimming trim trim- ming is a narrow ruffle of good Valenciennes lace on the edge of the turnover collar and deep cuffs This I garment can be easily laundered because because because be be- cause of its straight lines its lack of lof of buttons and the absence of ornamentation ornamentation orna orna- Undoubtedly this blouse which is quite quile expensive as a's it is turned out by bya a French firm famous for its shirt shirtwaists shirtwaists waists will become popular as th the I. I season advances because it offers no problem or difficulty of any kind to the amateur dressmaker Still Chiffon and Georgette Crepe Ever since the mill people learned to make chiffon doth cloth that was transparent transparent trans trans- parent and serviceable women have gladly accepted It for blouses Often they tiey adopt the Fren French h trick of putting putting put put- ting in m a lining of flesh colored or white lace and this like many other things founded on the French knowledge of thrift and economy economy econ omy keeps the garment in better condition and makes It give longer serIce service ser ser- vice Ice This lining is loose and is is' made like a deep girdle and Instead of attaching It in even the flimsiest way to the outside fabric it is better to give It shoulder straps strap of narrow flesh colored satin ribbons ribbon A As a rival to chiffon cloth Georgette Georgette Georg Georg- ette crepe has proven the most successful successful suc suc- fabric Its Its predecessors predecessors' were failures but it serves the need Iti lb will remain in fashion as as' as far ah ahead ad adas as a prophet can see and yet it is having to share the honors of the hour with several other fabrics that have been brought to the front Fine colored muslins solid and striped are the forefront of fashion fashion fash ion and white and colored organdies I which have been so extensively used for ne neckwear have been cordially taken taleen up P by the mak makers rs of blouses The plain white organdy waists are embroidered with one or more colors sometimes in the simple and ever pleasing design of scallops again in polka dots and triangles of brilliant red and blue green black and yellow Because polka dot frocks arc arc- arcin in fashion we will be able to wear separate separate sep sep- arate blouses of polka dot fabrics with the pleased feeling tha that we are quite in the middle of the picture Taffeta i and satin satin are are not looked upon with Q any degree of warmth but taffeta is I appl applied ed to chiffon and then embroidered dered in gold and silver to build up an ornate blouse White silk net of such sucha I a thinness of of weave that one is I caused to mistake it for tulle has I crept downward in the scale of dressIng dressing dressing dress- dress Ing from a ball gown to a blouse Its acceptance by the smart dressmakers dressmakers dress dress' I makers for this purpose leads the way for the new nets that have come over from France for gowns such as point I and the net with the square or dot woven in it The Dhe former Is is' is especially attractive for a blouse to toba tobe tobe be ba worn with a thin serge or silk suit uit Blouses Blous s of Embroidered Jersey Everyone knows by this time that the smartest of French blouses drops over oyer the skirt instead d of going under it after the manner of a miniature Russian blouse sent this out in white organdy with a sash of colored colored colored col ored silk and it has led lod the way for a dozen other conceptions by our own dressmakers lOne One of the most successful ways in which it has been copied is in colored silk Jersey touched up with a elme simple simple sim sim- embroidered design it in other bril brilliant colors and held in Jn by a wide belt of knitted silk like a mans man's cravat fastened with a large oblong silver buckle Some of these blouses are in white with a Pierrot design of black embroidery embroidery em but others intended for country wear ear are of yellow turquoise blue and apple green They fasten down do wn the left left side sie In a str straight ight line from shoulder to hem and have a loose muffler like collar that als also fastens at the side under the left ear eari i u The majority of the sleeves are arelong arelong arelong long in the summer blouses as well as cut loose and end in an ornamental cuff They are just as apt to have a high neck as a alow low lov neck |