Show o D rut fU t TV 5 S TILE THE FOREIGNER FINDS I STRANGE THINGS IN PARAGUAY PA RAG WAY 8 r Asuncion Full Pull Dress Dross Consists of Toted on on i the Hind Hand n Which Gives tho the Women Wom n Their fl J 2 00 s 4 Correspondence l nce l y July 3 1601 ASUNCION A Think of C having ha your trunk anti hexes big I II slid and nd little carried on m n n II head from rom the i landing straight vp up hill hili halt hall a mill mile or lr more to 10 the hl hotel I That I Is III what i whoa when you yon torn cone to in till this country of fir Nomen w where the 1 weaker Ak r sex POX performs all nil the that In b u a ac accomplished while the fn raw lord r of or crea crell lion tion loung m o oat ate uniting Impatiently to the tha th coin eoln earned I hy lIy their MUM liter and Aw w re The strangest CilI tiling about It In Is that IhRl the women perfectly contented eon tented with their hard lot ail would strenuously object should one of ot their malo relatives attempt tn to In do n of or work lint they IhlY seldom have tie the chance chunco to 10 object The Tho only thing in which the typical of ot the lower or middle elms class shows any racy d degree delmo nf ot enemy or perse perseverance persevere verance vere ue IB Is II In III huep I n R Rover up HIP lit e discipline over tho the of or the fondly family The latter regarded HH HI little bettor better than the rattle merely an as a clan nit mid anI ln l burden hulln lea Women ore are not 11 lie will to 10 rut nut lit H Ht at the HIP table with Ith their rs and however faithful and humble they tIey jolly he be nn fin whipping IK is considered for their temporal spiritual good ot Of courso I 1 am n not of nt the few row educated tensed refined and traveled who h share v much like III the I ladled l t and 11 gentlemen In III other parts of or the Ih world lorl but of or tho rho lower those who dothe do dothe the work arc ur most mom frequently met Ilet by hy limn At the tho beginning of ot I tho the lost lo 1 war tin In III 1st the 1111 population of ot was Willi reckoned at al today to day duy It II hUll hud less than 0 anti and some seine something thing thin over nf ot that number cumber are tiro w women Probably those thole account ac no count tot for the extraordinary care Caro that lint till h ID I token taken of ot the Iho few men remaining The latter are orl In stature and to be bo much tees lent strong in mind and l muscle than the Ihl other n excelling In III nothing but and In to that find and silence they thy Herod lIer HI and even the us of ot Argentina Ar who vho literally live 1110 upon IN i HC NI The Tho trite truo noes ott barefoot barefooted I ed Id nt lit nil yet It the tia I lit men melt manage manago tn la hitch n II spur to 10 the Ihl naked heal when on horseback The Till unvarying of ot the low middle cla class H Ill rn on waman would tumid re be lIP considered d Indecent of ot Its Is buthi but hUI butIn In IA hero worn vorn with modesty mn on nn the Prin Principle ciple of ot font unit 1111 qua ue mill mil y penco It Consists of ot a n very po loose hose low necked no sleeved camisole ole culled c In III oth vr or nt lit both holh ends with hand made native Over this thin li is n 1 snort cotton skirl with two I und and generally n a white while cotton manta mantu or 0 shawl wi to 10 sinfully 1111 conceal the th bust bint and In the seclusion sion oll of home she dispenses with h the haul shawl Rod and the skirt und and cOIl ba hili on nn nothing no whatever hAt I but bul the en ml Mode loll belted ld the by bya b a ribbon or nr strip trl of ot guy gay calico The she bulge or ur formed by h binding the IIII HI Itt the IH Iii h us its n pocket for rol parrying carrying money r iU cU 11 The Ih hull huh IB Is always IllicIt buck from the forehead and plaited In III two long R lu la blow ors cru n Art are e universally ally added worn III In two little bunches h 11 like Ithe door knobs either Just Jint above olOv or Ju Just t behind l hlll the pars and everybody who can iM n fiord It even by half a lifetime of or hard work and closest economy sticks stick a IL gold KOld topped comb In III her hr back Like the till now noel rings of ot Trinidad coolies and the necklaces of ot French P lire are the tho ot of standing the Ihl pride of or their own r heart and time t t u ts 1111 when the Ile t BO Nn ciely of ot the country tuns divided into two i who Mho wore oro gold and those who did not lit The younger belles also adorn with of It gold old and coral beads dab rush pendant 11 I e n long ns to 10 brush the rout though the wearer le 18 let l and clod clad only In n a n scant t camisole she Ihl la Is II seldom seen s at nl home Dome or abroad without the decoration of flowers Ho No o far im tie kindness Ina s and affection lire ire concern i 41 d you YOl might flight search neuron far nr and wide in hl inthe hlen the tho wolds renters of or civilization to 10 I nd en an RII equal to tn these IlI woolen umen of ot Paraguay Using In Asuncion you OU will nIll probably stop at Ot the lintel Hotel and nothing will VIII surprise you moreIn more In tin this country of ot surprises than Its Interior magnificence It Il was formerly a wince palace built for to 01 the joint occupancy of ot favorite members of or Dictator Lopez extensive harem It has hall two stories ouch each of ot great height hol hl with n 1 Imposing entrance rued marble staircase running right and let left Its 1111 vestibule corridors corll anti and court courtyard courtyard yard toll full of lit great round beautifully carved pillars and paved with the love IOle Host Hest and ami rarest marbles The rhe stucco work embraced symbols of ot war and pence art literature III music and love loe together with elaborate scrolls and gar garlands lands tho whole painted a 1 delicate and lInd on o a 1 white ground In the center of at a It I d patio la Is n A deep well wall whose coping Is cut from a n single block of ot exquisite marble Around It II under palm out 7 T trees growing In tubs tube ore nto placed marble tables on which cooling refreshments are aio served while a II band behind a II screen of ot vines gorgeous with purple lowers glowers renders classical music Interspersed by hy tho the In Inexpressibly inexpressibly sweet but pathetic folk songs nf or Paraguay The Tho mm hie paved AIO hung with huge lamps or of stained glass glassand glassand II and the tho sleeping Ilef rooms are separated from one ono another by II pant parti partitions lions Irons do not roach the enormous enormously ly Iy high rolling eiling by several feet thus af lit affording fording little so 10 fur IIII ns os sounds are IlIf concerned Not Nol far lit from tills magnificent hotel ore are the Iho melancholy ruins of ot n 1 H lure ture occupying an 1111 entire Inre which Lopez Intended for a n modern opera house lint Hut Into fate In the tho form of ot the conquering overtook him too soon trod and tha opera house never gut got beyond Its first story nor acquired tile tho dignity of ot n II roof The tower house Is I a II vast VII III building arched anti and many pillared containing the tho halls hails of ot congress and the of ot tho rho president of ot tho the republic lit lic and his hili ministers One Ono of ot the tho finest modern In buildings In hl the city Ill Is IA a n 1 rail 1111 railway railway way station of ot only rail railroad railroad road rOld which runs eastward about 60 50 miles to II the tho town of ot pA 11 I II 11 11 Tracts Traces ot of the tho golden days when Asuncion was waa the greatest city In this inn pa t of ot the ihn world the stronghold of ot the tho Jesuits ald tho the center of lit u It grout groat con coin abound In ht the tile ot of spacious and amt costly cosilY Whole streets arc to lined with tho the empty shells of ot what worn were once ollee homes now fearfully oll Another Another er sad monument of or pa punt t grandeur grandeur IH us the tho unfinished church und and dunce dome known Know u ua a Ill as the Pantheon do da Lopez Like the Ihl ho opera house which wits 1111 Intended n ill to eclipse Hint that of or Ju Lit ot ut Milan It 11 It now a 11 huge high skeleton with ami wild lowers flowers springing upon 1111 11 It In the till dust ut of passing years inert hi In Inan hian hian an old theater little used until In these days of ot poverty but much handsomer and more elegantly lit tod up than one often finds theaters In ot of this size lit Ill the thu United Stales It IH Is lighted ly Iy by electricity there theio are three tiers Hera I of ot boxes und mud In each mich box ui an electric b bell ll to tn call for Them are I spacious lI for tor promenading be between between tween thu rho acts and find at al nil 1111 times during a I performance more people leople may be tIP sevil In III the thi galleries than In III the tho boxes bores 1111 I iii cartouche around tho the coiling ceiling gives Mo Hero tho the Plato of ut honor over OVel tho Ilse pros proscenium with and on either side and the tho remaining car cartouches cartouches touches am Aro assigned to Lopez do 10 Vega Toga Shakespeare wan wanner 1111 I nero ner Alarcon lingo Verdi floethe lice lleo Schumann Mozart LullI and Donizetti 1 TIm Till To Tn the stronger stranger with nn lilt artistic eye ee the most Interesting nf or this thin queen capital c of ot contradictions Is Its itA market i d u a perl snow of ut de light und amusement of ot h ho hI never wearies All 11 the tho peculiar t types pes of ot Lila thu country are aro hero congregated especial ly Iy In the tho parly morning whets when tho the open opell o p en space in front In IH eI to with Ith stately Boll figure bearing burdens on ml their heads henda Indian worn ell who come In hr frill flom the or paddle down tho lie great river to 10 cull Holl their produce and buy Imy supplies queer bamboo carts curls oxen O OIl don dOli mangy dugs and children absolutely ns as nuked d as its they Into Inlo tho the world Tho The ot 0 ott art are smaller than the tho prairie schooners of ot Argentina unit an of ot different shape These e are Arc extremely primitive pic II whit axles wheels and wooden frames shies ron floor of or wild bamboo I and roof lOot ot of hide In front directly over liver the tho Mil drivers Miler ers er heath head there In is always s nn nil Iron trop ring helps to III uphold the IIII bam bamboo boo pole ole or o goad The Tho latter lias tine u a 1 rue rUI ty IY nail mull clam shell or fir splinter of ot old trot tron Into Inlo the tho end of ot II It ad Is IA just long Ion g enough to do effective work ork about the Iho Ills of nt the foremost ox In the procession of ot six or 01 eight yoked two abreast Tho The market marketplace place occupies nn an square a tall tail structure elevated several steps ellI the tho streets surrounded by hy u II double row JOW of ot columns 1111 arcades with pro IHO n roof root and ami tile till the Iho whole painted a n 1 rich Iloh dark Indian red The tho Interior corridors are aro occupied by hy tho those o who olio cannot afford to t Puy much mud tent rent lot but squat In 11 tho the shade of ot the tho arches with their wares spread out mit or Cc piled up nil in little heaps on the pavement All the tho streets and cold alleys are litO blocked by venders who are aro too loo poor to pay rent squaws half breeds who couch In the sand III each guarding a II little straw mat font upon which her scanty merchandise Is III displayed There are lire a II series serin of ot booths between n the Ihl corridors and the tho interior at in III which miscellaneous notions mostly Im Imported ported trait from l 1 aro tiro sold such UH us cheap handkerchiefs and fins fans buttons ballots knives hatchets cigarettes cites matches I combs and small mirrors Tho The largo square or central courtyard Is IB devoted to the BUB HillA ot of montH mania nail and rah fish and filled Jill eel with henries benches racks and At fled first glance IllIn you yon vitro art m astonished to note nolo that tha buyers and sellers lire are nil all women Oell who cut up liP dead pigs Irs and the carcass carcasses es c oC or braf or 01 r bullock bu carts to 10 town laden with tiny hay and potatoes nut not nutH n H single In JIll It II 1 y man mall In ht sight Bight And then you yon remember that title this Is IA n II country of women HIP Ihl men having been sell sacrificed In thin tho wars of or tyrant Such Hurl H II shrill flatter clatter and con confusion fusion of ot tongues could only ho bo made by Ity thin tho gentler sex IX Hut wo vo cannot quote tower lou tr In n this title connection for tor but one olle language Is le spoken here herr with n a patois of No Nowhere where but hilt In I t the bazare of ot the levant hit n f 1 t could you o u find ih g r to Ihl market Inn rite t life of ot Asuncion Hitch Hucl an nil aggregation of ot ugliness IA never heron collected under one runt roof as tic n circus cirrus bill hili would say ens That which surprises you 01 Hatt Is hI that nil all nl the Iho women young and II to old ohl arc oro smoking or II chew chewIng Ing lug tho the ends of or then them nil all are barefooted anti dressed precisely ol alike In lit garments to 10 cover cOI r their nakedness but hut nf ot purest I and nearly all al look sail situ and a miserable ml n nl as if It there store nothing to 10 hope for fol in tl II this world or another You observe ob that those who vho chatter the tho loud Ml 11 when amused by hy an nn approaching it cu tomer relapse In Into into to 10 silence slid and the Instant the till sale Is III completed Ask Auk one of or then them the Ihn price of or nn an article she replies i In lit a n toy Tory way ns as If Ir It pained her hN to 10 part with It The Th purchasers to 10 be hI beIn In lit h no hotter better spirits their bare fret feet gliding along each with the tho inevitable plot table cigar between her lips rn vu am and unsmiling F FANNIK H B WARD |