Show ROYAL CITY OF SPAIN A Site Which Has Nothing to it Except that a 0 Former King Fancied Its Good for or His Gout l t I Il i Corr Spain May 30 Tut do to the capital O Is only two hours rice lid by b railway through come IOme of tile the drea lIt scenery to be found In Spain hl first fiut glimpse ot of the royal city up oa its elevated plateau faced with noble edifices Is most moat Imposing as the traIn winds slowly toward It along lee aPr hillsides But Dut It renders dl disappoint disappointment ment m nt greater when whon the goal I le reached fur Cur palaces which show oft off with start ling hag effect tram from afar are round found on tr Inspection to ho bo bare and anI meager indeed But there are redeeming tea fea features tures The snowcapped Guadarrama r roe forms n background of which n ty city might be proud and the great rucks ot of now at theIr best bestin If in summer Bummer refreshing to eyes by the bare bar barr r ke ut of Toledo and the III brown between n It not how differently ob Jd appear to t people from various an of oC vision Islon While all foreigners gre gr e that Spain could hardly rave I ct sen a lees lesl desirable site alte for tor her har pl tilt the Spaniards themselves t u n It extravagant praises pralle A hun bun 1 1 d 1 favorite sayings are as arc MadrId os es come corto DontJe Donde este elte Un Ma Undrill drill calle of 01 Deade Madrid el Ull f W W H Is the only court Phan Madrid Is let all the world ke keep silent anent Madrid Is but It a astep step from glorify their sunny the with a couplet to the affect has hIlS tot not seen Seville hea seen lIMn a 8 marvel malel but citizens ot of the capital cap the climax cli climax max by Who has ha not seen Men Madrid has seri seeds at all This Is 18 what the Germane call caU I a s town which has hili become a capital from being thi residence ot of e a Gouty and dye dys peptic fIng l V imagining that hl he found reller his sufferings inthis In this sharp And consulting on only ly Iy his personal deserted the Ule TIME CAPITALS of oC Valladolid Toledo and Oren Gren Grenada adA about the he eU 1140 to his hll permanent t n lure here on II a spot which IberIan Goths Goth and Moors had all When captured by I Alonso IV 10 II l BI It was merely Ii a forU 81 outpost st of oC Toledo named n Arabic word mean meanIng meaning Ing current of fair Being surround surrounded ed by dense denn toN fore It was made a royal hunting OI dence and nearly six Ix hundred later Argote wrote ot of It as n it good cover for boar bou and bear Hence no doubt name the tree tr vert with 1 a b bar r up It which figures so con pr In the arms of Madrid The oreeta have lon lone since disappeared new not a tree nor norA A A shrub nor blade of gra grass beautifier the environs of oC the appal Though the climate mae possibly have agreed with gouty ICIng Charles It hat hils certainly been the death of thousand of better people Only 2600 feet above sea ea level It has none of the advantages of high position but Its unprotected plain wept by Icy breeze tram from the Monte Monts lIe de Toledo on one side ellIe and the tho snowy Guadarrama on the other le III nub Bub to the most mOlt rapid and violent liter changes fatal to weal wank and consumptive constitutions and par to young children Its death rate Is the highest ot of any European U 46 per Iler 1000 The fhe Spaniards who throw most grue gruesome gruesome some a as well as happenings Into I doggerel have a couplet to fit even een I alre de Madrid ese ese an I QUe mate a un hombre h y rat no I apaga a un that hat cc 10 in III the air of Madrid It kills aman a aman man but will not blowout blow out a candle andle Twenty degrees difference of tempera tore ture is II often orten noticed In Ue the atmosphere of the same street on one side Ide the gun tun biasing down with tropical fury seems to blister the wall on the other side In the shade a damp chilliness pens pene penetrates to the very marrow In your our bones bone Anon th the sky ky le II suddenly over oer cut a deluge of rain falls and on nn Icy blast weep sweeps down from the mountains Ilk a messenger of death The natives wrap themselves In their fur lined I brown cloaks pull their sombreros over oer their ther ears and thus muffled to I their noses walt wait till the cloude roll I b by In another hour tour the sun BUll may b bout he out again with burning Intensity and not a breath of air The tX ex extreme I heat of midday Is always fol followed lowed loed b by cold nIghts and naturally pulmonary affections are arc common and fatal atal Indeed Madrid stems seems to possess not nota a single advantage of at situation except the fancied one of occupying the exact geographical c center of r td thIs thin lappets happen to be the least por portion or Uon tion of oC the country and then therefore tore w for commercial purposes So dim cult is II communication with Madrid that the cost COlt of conveying merchandise lee hem from the coast cout is II heavier than the freight from the coast cont to London At AI melt mat every other Important city ot of Europe II I situated on the banks of come stream but the Manzanares upon whIch Madrid Madrill is I a dry channel the yr year round Among Amon many Jokes concerning title waterless riser Ayer which lone lume say sa dons eta UP pp Is hat Madrid Is II the only caps cal lal whIch has neither s sea nor river referring also to THE FACT that Ills Is not an see and s no cathedral It Is related that when the French troops entered the city th they exclaimed Wet hU has hashe the he river too run away To th lh la Is ladue due the epIgram which yet cling to Madrid concerning men without cour alee women without mod modesty eat and a rI lv lver er r without water There Then are plenty of rivers rIve without bridge but this presents the anomaly of a bridge c crossing nothing At all ail It was walt build b by Philip I It to 10 whom wits of 01 the lime Ume suggested that lie he would twitter r buy a river or cell his hll bridge le In the reign eign of U 11 the court used t to amuse lt itself by driving up and down Ih he dry rock rocky bed of the and local traditions tradition preserve Ine em many mishaps that Up to t fifty yn yeah Ago lIlO this groat reat city of at about I inhabitants Inhabitant depended entirely upon the Gallegos or human carriers roe Cor every drop of at water ateI used and so scanty was the and for Cor so 10 hIgh hight Ii t price did It sell ell that mOlt moct of It was wasI trunk and very try i the tUe left t for lavatory lavator I J J OH Thanks to an English the city is II now with delicious water which Is into every put part by work II It Is brought from frum the source BOUret tt of the he river Lozoya away up In this Oua Quail name trama range rang more than through an aqueduct oust COlt million pens Though Ferdinand and Isabella oo 00 atonally te set up their pilgrim I de le on the declivity that overhangs the e and Charles V nursed It m e lOut gout here and other kings tarried I to hunt In the es th Philip II a e M to dacha d IUle only court lad and add all it other high hl h founding but i ir r e Imper tal y Coronado into noble Inu muy I lead Indo ye y muy lm I penal pertal and arad crowned city very ver noble i very Ie loyal lays and very r heroic he lc Mr John Hay Har our secretary ot of I t In hi his book entitled C Day Dayt says on n this subject It seems bawd hald to 10 connive how bow a king who had hi his choke hoh I i Lie 1111 tun ton with It its glorious harbor and un i n communications HiI with its It I delirious climate and natural beauty HUrl and Toledo with their stealth of I splendors ot of III nichi chi and I of learning should hould have c o n till this bern barren mountain for tor his hill home and the seat leat of his hll I tut ut when we kno know this kill king ere wonder no r Ife He t chose Madrid my ly because It was cheerless nid hare Iare and Ind ere ophthalmic Th The yai Ill dell delighted In having the ital on earth After Atter awhile there to him too much life and humanity about and he built the tho the grandest Idea ot of I majesty and ennui tile the world has bal ever evern n This vast lilt mass of has bill somehow acted aled II as an anchor allor that has half I held the capital fat fast moored at Madrid through all succeeding yen Arrived at al Madrid you find the rail railway i iway way station Infested with hn Importunate nate crowd of beggars porters porter guides and vendors vendor through whose FRAGRANT RANKS you fight B a passage pase t the line of enbe Jumping In Ue near nearest est you are hardly lit et hotel before the driver su u denly pun pulls up and an putt his head Into Inlo tl r door politely request you to What is II the matter you ask alk for tor the eedy pet pass passport port el i pee of baggage II I the Oyes Oh yes Though your trunks trunk have gone to the custom house that little was forgotten In escaping the swarm of beg beggars beggers gars gers at the station who now item hem you In and settle down upon you lo 10 locusts on n a 1 Kansas held Probably rain Is falling as It usually does live five days out of seven In Madrid but there you Ou must mut stand eland In the mud at the mercy of the crowd with your exposed expaNd to the wet while the Inspector makes malu malua a deliberate examination even of your tooth brush end and shakes hak out your robe do null nult to made mad sure that you have In It then thrusts your things back heller and chalking balking lite cabalistic signs ul upon on the valise bows low and permits you OU to proceed There is no use UN in III remon for tor the these e de puertas or gate duties are nr bound to be attended at attended tended to if H you carried so much fill ac acan un an apple or a sandwich It would be promptly oon for the benefit benent ot of the government and probablY thor there would be a nn Ane to pay If not some something thing worse A most mOlt tax Is levied upon all articles ot of load food before they are allowed to bt be carried within the walls alII or exposed for tor sale I in the markets or of any town too ger pound ot of lies ervy eJ pint of wine very every orange pays tribute to the reigning family ot of rune tile he burden of this thle Imposition upon upen th the OF falls upon tie the The ux tax t la collected without lIlt pity and the t attempt at evasion le J sure ure to its he followed b by the seizure ot of the eat eatable able lIlea In and the fine or Im ot of the offenders These whose hOle wits ul are Aro sharpened ed by hun hunger r and bad Ita pay are not Indifferent to toan toan an styled lei inter de Su is lanes which freely rendered means greasing the machine rag through wide and well 11 paved lIt a contract to Toledo Toldo and art are truck struck II by the extra estra extraordinary ordinary number of 01 tramway linN run rUH in all directions direction and AM the word Ingleses m meaning labelled on everything In sight I ht In Spain the word American I is applied only to South America and aU all the inventions or of tilt list United Stat go In under uDder the term tenn I Thus Thul the street treet cart are made in Delaware are credited to Eng Ene England land along with St 51 IAu Louie and ke kee seer and New York such a e England never neTer dreamed drame of oC There are In I hats hate corsets els bl biscuits everything even n to maps mank sugar aur made In nt find and loa grown In Michigan The rhe fetal H do Parla Paria said to be the tho beet In Madrid fronts the Puerta del Sill Sel Oate Oale o of the Sun the great ureal which narks marb the exact center of the city where ten streets and alt all the tramway lines met meet and whence the they diverge e eI I e so many arteries Here lIere originally stood the gate of the old It disappeared are 1 long long ago and now the vast ut oblong ohlon space la II surrounded by bye splendId e buildings ot of stone atone showing decided Parisian Paran taste and tn Influence which have helped to 10 give clo Madrid the sobriquet of oC little Y Paris In these the finest shops hG S and clubs are located and the gorgeous cafes with their gilding and tr and wail 01 of at plate glass Ul One whole elde or of the square is III Q occupied by byan An structure erected for tor I Charles Ili III and devoted to the lice Miniso terlo de 1 in or head tare of the municipal and military gov governments of the city The rhe handsome Fonda de Paris stands upon the ruins o of the old Church of fluen Suceso In which tire the good goal Canon anon was wa murdered and where hue In 1000 Murat perpetrated one of his terrorist t butch butcheries I eries mAny of the victims being buried on the sprat Multitudes ot of peddlers of lIf every evory description literally pack tilt the I pavements ot of Puerto del Sol and I around Its fountains making both hoth n t tand and day hideous by their cries le It j I jaiM also aiM the general ur of th gilded youth of Madrid saunter g forth for flirtatious purpose el fur for bUll bullfighters fighters and th the ill ot of both sexes In every walk ot of Ilfe FI El dressed dr ped ladles leaning upon n the arms of oC their escorts 11 alem th the pavement casting r rally I ally aUy furtive glances upon some IOme cavalier or by an almost I I Ible ble be movement of oC th the hal its III language And code of I nalee n a 1 tinder greeting to some pasty flails hIt f end FANNIE n B WARD WAnD |