| Show NORTHERN SPAIN A OHm 01 San Ian JI II t he be Royal Pala in lb M Ig landl lem Ast IOl the ua Mountain Arrival at t u 1 ee sMiDt Jill Ito little Jack ot of the tb nursery rhyme PI w saved Ute the of tile the Spanish cap capItal Ital till tb the VI very last Jut This our final baa days daYI In Madrid were extremely buy busy and extended almost from dawn to lawn The nIe 8 l not lIot lIotI I unreasonably to modify climate habit to stilt the he cr of 01 I Iong before the au sun i ind the heated days In thi th tithe ot of a and do mot most ot of their moving about during durin this the hour of are op n to 10 the gage S and 10 a m mirl irl a again ib 10 7 lii III th the t I as a much to I Ito as to anti tl from 9 p In to or 01 3 Those midday ay hours houri hl b bI I devote ott to work III uty and aft at passed In slumber by the la lily and building closed and this state of affairs I ii not without tes to the toutS touriSt who can R an n open generally the judicious expenditure of a few 10 will do It in h a mY titian all II to tn inD i n mOlt fit ill day dllY Our lat leet moral morning WI was devoted th throy roy royal ann armory 0 1 which is II tilt the finest museum Of 01 It III I kind In the world It Ii occupies the site Ik or of AN or of the Moorish ka a opposite the pat ade round ground In tron ot of the pal ace All armories armor have II a ff semblance but this of cC Madrid h l 1 lits its IIa lit is R a containing the amor and i ot of otIbe the Ibe greatest knights and perr n In I history hilorY as U specimens of every 01 weapon apon used in Ute the peninsula the Age of The he first glImpse from the drawn up lit In 11 lines all down Ih the of It the grand and knights l Nt full standing the tho wall vail fa of implements of war ted lid the tournament hanging on every side Ide Interspersed with hundreds of front frolli the enemy and oC if mall mail carries on one beak back tO 10 herot day Among Amon UI tM Iwon swords o h hv the of I hili wi heads head the under throbbed hr her bVM hearts mar maj be seen Icen tb the t trusty t bladis blacha or her h r rat cap caplain lain d 45 ud and Herman Cortez the or of the Old Cid and the helmet belm t o the last lut kin king of Grenada who dared dered tIM the to Ferdinand and Isabella the weighing 41 encased the form of Colum Columbu Columbus bu bus together with his MUan harness bune Inlaid with gold slid 4 silver lIver the th corn com armor of Chad Sam 11 which Titian pat painted him an his alii most eMr wrought by Juan Jua Id wu brought from th ot of alter after u the dea tho There art are Roman an aM spears peara and IuS bu buckler kl the mace mac and golden fOldeD crowns crown of the Visigoth latter from which numerous orders its re UI cru cruel I bits and of 01 Alfon 10 0 Yi VI the battered armor worn by Cortes Cort during the It of 01 Mexico Ico still bearIng upon lit its crest the green and plumes plum that waved tn La triumph over Oyer the battle fields of 01 till she the brnad sword or with It which hewed III his blood why through the naked of 01 laces the vaunted trophies of 0 Ie IA panta the tue African treasures tiered red to Cardinal at Oran and aad other of scare earll ot of riot glory and heroism that seem em hardly possible to our prosaic age Ie There ire are splendid ot of banal V ot or of them chased In One fronts Ilont bearing the Ia ot of thil th blea blessed d bl his title tule tIp Ill he back an engraved portrait ot of otta lift ta I bArbara tb the patroness tron of 01 ud and nl as maD many suits of even greater tr trI I elegance to that modern fop Don COlin ala al suite of Don I uIn an of Portugal anti and a magnificent suit of Philip II 11 all laic and In ino o ant looking all as fresh today as 81 If laid aside Ido only last lut week Collection of guns belonging to tb the CharI Charlesea UJ III u IV many ot of them INLAID WITH those royal gamekeepers theta them are Rrt tile the swords of fit Ferdi I hand ltd of ot LL that gan n tW te princess Isabel La JA ens II or swords peat itt h by to Spanish kings who used them a as their eXt executioners and curious shields ot of the Moore two uro bidet hidei to together b by a C ce It ut at herbs and camels hair r oval In form with three tee h the or knob very el light lIht but ut perfectly resisting spear pear and ad sword or The ornamentation and equipments of the Arabians who hD under tile the sultans or of Grenada attained such In inthe the production of 01 weapons and annor ainor are exquisite beyond gold chasing and enamels being yet as I and a as the dy day they left th the makere hands hande Not t least remark remarkable remarkable able among thc antiquated fire attn arm art are I some lome pistols of with revolving two bun bundred dred year rUM before Col Colt wu was horn I but almost identical In with his hll modern Next Wt we visited I the he Royal Gallery of 01 ot of which Madrid I is justly proud ud as tt it contains contain b by tr far the finest Inett ot of picture In Ever Every oni Ie I well represented Including the beet works work ot of such ucb muter masters as TIU Titian Rubens Ruben Paul Murillo v Van bk end aad Whatever may be besaW saW Id to tilt the discredit of the I AUSTRIAN DYNASTY they were wert certainly liberal lI ral patrons of and especially to Charlei Chari Vand i ito to the accord and fourth Philips is Ia the i world for th theer price priceless Ie uret To pee II them one must pa pay tb the i imn small mn fee of 60 O which goes Ge to tb the support of the Asylum forth Poor on oa the Prado Madrid to on the oth othor or K side of the rambout a journeyed part way by diligencia In order to take In flea Idlefonso where the court gen generally pa passes the months of Jul July Au August gust ut and September As A we tithed rattled the bridge that spans tb the 4 dry u of the M w Wv 1111 ii an eIght Ibl lcm ruai was wall in III and the the bank a mile mil or more wu was thIrd with boot booths for tor drinking dancing and gaming mon men ad d women offering their agus fIa from hue hure jugs lu luand and family groups scattered about everywhere on ial ad and their wine I lii the tho sane old of II Mil hh Milon on one reads Mada In Don Dan Quixote t r ry lr i feet was some primitive uvo sort ort t often only a mad drum lr r it II pair pf Of rudely whittled to III whose hON mure youths and nd maid maidens en ens trIpPed the with pleasure neer I have I lean n a happier or more ii natured irid every tace welt urb a look of supreme delight Farther up the tbt hili w In l ng row rowl 0 of taU stall filled wIh pottery to toys and ad other arl arti I Iel el for sate 10 ud and still hillier higher wa was It a saints la ii which an lIt hold up a sliver lIver image Ihlae for or tM the throng to kill and donations of 01 copper coins Nan Ban Li 14 II as It Ii I is generally put ott on the maps map i is IT fl milt mIls from it at an elevation of not qUite feet tM the difference In tern besing about a ac U a 4 degree reN III t 00 degrees ahr This al In the tbt same lamp at as higher than the crater creter of at Mt It Vesuvius b by rocks forest and aDd try aye tal stream immediately above it towers the pek It 0 of La one ope of th the highest In ire art fond ot of saying aln that literal castle In the air airI I a worthy chateau fur Cur their kin kings who ho being tilt first and 01 earthly A RETREAT whIch snare to heaven TIle The pal are c rather rench chateau the ver very antithesis or of the proud and gloomy to th t foreigners rel a as If It might have bave been moved b by the slaves or of ln lamp amp from the bald leVel ot of the In to the wild willi sierra A long line of tan rafting like Ik that of the at t three side I P of a square q re The facades r resembling a long c fronts a garden which I 1 saId 14 to tn be the fin finest est elt In Includes NO 50 Area acres Tb grand rund walk walle In front called the parterre for everything h her I Is In name Rn and 1 style tI a boundless boun lp ex pause panle of flowers whet and mountains mountain A As everything I artificial 1111 like the char actor ot of It Its builder the olt Wb Wal coot eDor moos mou reaching to Ib um sum In which Philip V died In indebted After an all Ian fan I is but bu buan butan an Imitation on a scale leal ot f tb the garden of Versailles hut the of this Spanish Versailles art are more mol real than those of oC their original be betag tag Iq no turbid puddle u up by m ma but genuine crystal distIllations fresh from the mountain alembic The Cucador a splendid natural sheet heet ot of falU water glittering ILVER R under the sun UD of sup supplies up plies a large below whIch with characterIstic modesty Ia termed El EI Mar Mr the ocean There are thirty on the round tile the mot most famous bela the Fama which shootS u up water lO feet teet Poor Philip V VIII VIs Is III said 14 to h hive It stepped ppe before betor It ita few lew minute upon lie 1111 completion It a to have exclaimed It has cost me Int plait for the tIu th minutes I have been amused 1111 of statues and marble vases ale dock deck the avenues and nd i labyrinthine walk their artificiality I contrasting sharply with the die wild hlll bill billand and rocks clot clothed bed with sombre Inside the palace are at great t marbled floored saloons aloon lined with paintIngs and antiques The royal apartments we did not see In one ot of them In the win winter In Intel tel ter of 1724 Philip IV abdicated the crown but resumed It again In th the tot rul lowing A Augst uI t urged thereto by hi wife who soon lOOn wearied ot of private Ute life Here lIere Charles lU HI received Count dAr tot Charles X when on bl his way to take tuko C w II hh he did not do Heip In OMy signed thc and Intel fatai treaty hy by whIch pain WUI as Ir Ir handed over to the Frames list Hr Ferdinand VII In d Ut the decree by which h halt had tit the law and nd his hll daughter Isabel to be heiress to 10 he town an ut act which thich cursed rUNNI hl ill a with civil wars rum which She hue never A e If h by justice thu tame the f another I In which In hr turn ws II ot of her royal rights by a 11 small band of It lute soldiery headed hd by a sergeant sh wis to proclaim the den of oC 1112 1111 t I suited In the downfall and exile or lOr I queen nt n the f e ethin thin things to 10 the old order Charle Charie III need to con every ery year Mt to Li La to shoot and flab and U at his was wal tit th forcing orrin of h het he set et up bert hett LII La Fabrica tie where W and fine Ine Were math lii ale I f hOn tried In I 1 Mar the reservoir with r Ull UllA A few mil distant and easily reachel hE n the I vor very rugh and a rul gUIde t Is II needed I Is the ruined moans monR tery or of 11 PaIr a t eon ra b by John I to carry out a avow avow vow lit him father had made while III Freace FraI There te 11 alco alcoin In tile the neighborhood tb the hapel of the KI built hUllt in III laio 1810 b t Ho Al AI Alfonso toni fonso sad another hUrh built 1 by a well worth urt t We quite UD for tor the magnificence of t the hp UtA m Which w we had bad to cross crOIl hy by hya bya a pam more mor than any I have hale seen lleon In our no o n Sierras The fh trul truly lIln 11 nt begins soon t I 1 the ht roid frim tile the regions ot of to that of snow IIno with of rk k rhine high cn n either side ir n hIre here In n there ther I ty appalling preci a Th The descent I Inot is not Without It irUs tl especially anything is mcL In the narrow What we p tell I 1 mot most was wal not lIot brigante nt nor mule mille with Ith their bulging but n a hIJ of the fierce fiere n cattle eattle brine down to Madrid Madr 1 Ii t supply th the de Toro Torn They 1111 apt to the 1 and before their uncut barns the tIn Ita swearing ishu and handful ot of tu tutI settlers tI would stand land but poor poOl showIng Happily none was a met the bullfIghting tan bel temporarily over OYer ThoU h wild and we the plains In safety and alter ner traversing litany any miles of dismal at t Mt beheld ruing a glowing sunset sky Th vi virlan oil Ent nan elt city crowns a steep bill hili t I high hut seen from a It Nem hardly to 10 rl rise above the ci of 01 lofty lotty uplands l which It I Is separated b by deep down upon Uton the crowded town ton tondie die me lee ft ot of a bishop to Villa sets Pt churches tower and andred nd red rooted apparently plied piled one m upon from a foreground tore und or of desolate moorlAnd where foamIng mountain torrents dan dance and sparkle through burned grass rull and pale gray ray roo Old Romanesque bea and anet convents convent occupy some Im rising ground to the right and as the roach coach whirls around the corner blo below them you lU mine come Upon the hurt huge aqueduct with two to tot t tier or of arb arches which the Roman tm em emperor Trojan built across arOll a boll hollow ow In to unite the original town with Its Ita more moN populous suburb thue arches you ou enter tb the ham street t fit of which wInds wind windup up lip tile the hill bill between double gateway In every side are hOUR houses with window square aflame sith local loea color sni costume half baIt ruined and dominating nil all a wonderful Gothic cathedral the tbt lar lart larg mt t In FANNIE U D WARD |
