| Show M W w t U W 14 U II M U U II N U U w U M w COSMOPOLITAN MADRID Th h spanish h Is but P CUy It of Its And r UL 1 Special Madrid ld J sane I is all the e splendors of oC this rOat city 01 one I is elot conscious of a feeling of disappoint disappointment ment Ul It is II 1 so much ll like ethic t mom modem se void vold of pe pie ud and Ild from tb the utterly lacking tn In th the charms of 01 antiquity romance and nd tradition that cling around Cor Corda V Va Toeo Toledo and Sa Is Sade de deed th the Spanish capital has bu n never ben been a thoroughly oly city and U time goes o Ca on It Im seems to have bv 11 legs and ad adI I less In common wih with other Dr of population In the peninsula oib h known t to history a thousand years r I It remained a an insignifIcant village I u uti un ti Ill Crl Charles V P made It bl his Oa occasIonal r residence on account ot of bl his gout t dad a Philip n II the It most h king In hilory history lle selected I It I a the gloomiest pla place he be b knew h In which to 1 establish UI the Ia seat of oC hi I melancholy government WhIle tb the pro progress of 01 monn modern improvement marked In Madrid than in hI m most european ca capitals tI tIon on ot of tb the 0 of I its people and tb the incredible tenacity With which the they to tb the ot of their Deo It is still Ul 8 so Is to ICI tb the Md of provincial slid to liu produce a chan changes which would make I Ia its founders turn tum In tl their grave to C con contemplate founer template Nearly sit Its ge present lecture I is foreign U aa well u as the d dad dress ad and social customs of 01 the people and nd the mOt mot or of their pepe th the A As a rl Title with vr very tw few twI I tb the hotels are ket kept by byi i IW tb the estee restaurants lioon saloons b Ilium the and pitr place by most dr dry goods good merchants the druggists Germans ae are dr tl OrI the clothiers Importers and aDd wholesale dealers English or American There ae are 1 so many of 01 the latter that It ought to be a favorite resort for tor thO who bo turn tum up their trousers in Nw Nsw York when I It ther rains la in Lon London oln In tl they would inevitably be to fcc pl English II even i I If tb they dId ape UI the latest lAJ Ia fad for lor U the Jo P make makes NO ON between the people I and of U t Era M North America but Ibel labels them al alL Her Here rean means W representing countrieS which the With people ar are much l a than than with the United and Ind I if you 01 tell them that you OU a so III American thy they will 1 Imm Immediately express that you do not 8 Spanish as a fluently al a athey I they do eP This l seems I to 10 b be euly equally shared had by the douth American who come to vil visit Ih the moth and nd who frequent S J apply appl to 0 the American ministry at Madrid for tor or advice when thy they should go 0 instead to that ot of ChIle or Peru or wherever they hl hail from Al All this seems natural enough In view I ot of the clos clo relations t t have bave always e ix between and her nits but I It Is no not flattering to tb the no na prid pride ot of t Uncle e Samuels ID bits ad and daughters It I is particularly II lag to see my ctt our Inventions and n products utIlised spain and nd credited to street tret arg tad loo ieee al ned machinery our witches Waltham calico and d u alpaca our Baltimore oysters and apa Columbia tInned salmon and cc cod umon Ih fib and Dd Minnesota flour our and apples and Delaware pach es and Oie Orange coUnty chI cheese IVf even our ur which a are unknown li In J hee here under the general tr term of 10 hu has had bd a opportunity to become orne se ac wIth us darl during the lit last two O 0 three years Ind fInd no DO doubt I ii no now b be r to tt that the Uncle Unel lm Sam uel s country does exist ad and is not to tob tobe b be on Ind land o Ol era Of Madrid 5 inhabitants I It I I aU cud that tbt 10 ha have been added with within Ith II in the last tort forty y years and nd at least one third of It iti edifices ba have v been buit built durl during that period and nd are thereto therefore modern In style tle and architecture This la I true ru u o of the hurt hn ot of the city The Tb exact center te I t the great Iu equate cale called Puero Puerto 1 Bl Sol gate t ot of the In fl bau because th the eastern gt gate ot of the old lorre fortress orla originally ol occupied lt the i it pt of The fine tbt that Y a and marble with tr their light ornamental balconies anti hate window IRow look IlI Ilk a bi bit of 01 Ir Paris O or ot of Duo Ay Ayrea that wonderful new city of the western o t wem ber In them are loate located the principal hotel botel and ld shop club dube t and cafes and Id the headquarters of the municipal and military government L of the city Prom From this Ihl point ten pal streets dIverge Ile like the spokes In a l Here alt all the tramway lne lines met meet ad and rn run of olf In all directions B ity each ot of these tramlIne In suc u COD cession ad and riding to It It end nd you ml may get t a good general Impression of 01 the cl city la in C a fw few hours ut t insignIficant ex ax Pins tor or the Ire fare I ii only two cent There are re a few electric traction lines lne bitt for lor t the most part mllE mules ar are the propelling power and the they are re t to a perpetual run Up hi hill and nd pit 1 the pr poor litle little bt beast whom nobody Jl phi drop ded dead In their tracks Bout lome lomeO BoutOs O Os U Lb streets vt through whIch the tram tramways wai ways imis are re 1 so narrow that pedestrian an hav have to nten flatten themselves agaInst the as tb the c car go 0 by ot others ar are steep and winding and all allare 11 nl are very ruhl roughly pv though kept In intolerable tolerable condition As Aa a rl rule t the streets tret ot of Madrid are wider than lh those ot of southern Spain and their greatest hanle I is In an abundant sup up ply ot of water I ft is III ot of comparatively recent nt introduction bru brought ht to tn th the ely city from the mountain some lome ve or thirty miles through an I 0 of English construction which co cost n milon millions or of dol dolla laI la It deprived Madrid of one ot of I its mot most picturesque features the water carrIers atones for lor that loss by al gI trig tool 01 clean streets plenty ot of e cx water free Irle of 01 ot cost and anda a chance tor for verdure U In the rl n PARKS PARK and nd gardens ad Of the multitude of pod of every vel descrIptIon that warm p Puerto dl del Bl Sot I Its and fountains the most noticeable bal because I nOlI noisy are N U the Their rasping voices reA read th the air Ir In shriek I t to be heard above aft 1 other lund lundI I La Jp Jl Li El EI Ol b I La Newsboys td and newspapers H a w we understand the term do not lIot exist t l 1 Spain Spain Blind mn men and nl old WOI tM often carrying a achild child o op one acm and a bundle ot of paper on the completely usurped th the province e u tb shrewd and nd always jolly street Arb who I Ii unknown h hIn here hereIn In that capel The sheet the they Mi sell art r wretched specimens of 01 typography i printed upon pr poor material and nd meur I In about 11 b by 1 lushes There are ara araJ J eal ton lon Upon In Spain for lor ech each Issue I Is re ic required to 10 b be carefully sifted and revised before publIcatIon and must always bear r the stamp ot of the censor of the pre press ft A few meets an n Ut item or two of f curt court a serIal story tol ot of character ad and no hO morl morals worth mentioning and nd occasIonally a Ilm poem by some female subscriber compose the con cont contents t tents t Yet with ill 1 these and drawback It I ii what numbers of tl these insIgnificant journals I ar are sold Jb Bach or of te the several prU parties 1 and factious must mut ba have I Its organ and andas nd as eer every Spaniard I is mor mere or I lees ot of a partisan h he himself In ha honor bound t to r tl the edItor who sets Nt fourth itt hi oW oW political cr creed Probably L La b ban th the laSt largest II sale In lr average of copt copIes a ady aday dy day but I I conservative Journal of 01 vey vicy ol old repute put established bit half a century ag ago undoubtedly tr exer Ille the greatest t influence among the u Upper r 01 classes ot of them how however ever or both combined to I compare 11 In as molders of public opinion wih with own on or any other news new ot of th the Unite UnIted Slit or eV even n with lh tb the bt beet jural journals ot AuStria Rus Ru Russin 10 sin ud and It Italy For fifty years yra La Epa wih with It Its twelve or thu thou Lend nd circulation ton baa been devoe devoted t to th the hip high conservative party I Iii ei eitor edt tor lin anti principal owner the 11 Marquis de an n a longer I editorial with lo inure b born and ad I Ira rat nat In It it t than aD aDot any ot othur hN journalist I ever met L I I I a tour 0 p page are re moll mostly given over overto to niI alleged D news from lye sources and It supply ot of i 1 MATTI t 1 s hadl hardly f a Von m may r read ot of aar In your or own Country fr from an aD nIlI of I altogether nw new to you o and learn lenn I PC Doa Doston u bordering on onI a I I Wl Ia San aa aate a a afew te few hoar hours rn run from Nw New Yek ferk 14 and I as inhabited by b Indiana bears r an bu buffalos aIO Ater After nightfall tM the Puerto del Sel ht as It its gayest t aspect Te The immense I b with lh the electric light I hO lid the ot of Mo shops hiM haL Ith the decline ot of tb the sun ln I fr itself a s to a focus of o di 41 Ild and amorous intrigue 01 all tb the 0 it II tut and galantI gallantry of th the i erIO screams tb the of 01 wax x as he offers hta 1 tRY tray ot of decorated d boxes bou containing the tin tiny bIch ar are In such e cx t demand In a land Ind where H cv HI I smoke mok I take tak takI cr oral rings Olt out the warning of 11 tb I I 5 he urges on hit his string f C mule perhaps twenty driven I of ev even the captain 1 retreat on the double l quick The tool string I is la in driven hurl hurriedly III to permit the ot of p le 18 lewith with I Iv I aix Ix hor horse ant nl perspiring travelers peerIng y J through a whirlwind of dut dust In 1 11 alIt Uon tion to the common types ot of th I ty U the Pm Puerto Sot I fails I of ever every pr in th the kingdom MIs Maita In kil kilt and manta to to In trunk hose anti nd doublets ala I t In somber black ton a ean of the 11 ra rag r and even fn Mo Moors 1 and nd It flura r from Irom the Spanish colonies I of Afra The of the tho onlO are re occupied by and I In festive apparel and GARLANDED WIT ROSE ROSES while through hat half open dor door Issue th the click ot of and the tinkle If of rl guitars indicative ot of merrymakIng 10 xo lag on within The cafes cale wih with their wl walls ot of plate glass I their gilding ani gorgeous frescoes and thousands of I m are r crowded tl to repletion with animated crowds crowd Such a picture does doc the Gate Oate o of Sun present every pleas pleasant ant nt evening and nd at t this tn line of oC oCea year ea I its lights are re extinguished or I its promenade until the rl cry of tl the announces the dawn of oC ll day Sun worship could never ba have originated In Spain It I is often saId Id that tbt the mOt inept delightful thing II Iii and the detestable I Is I it blue sky most moat thing I Is the sun lun that causes It No Spaniard would ever hu have sold lold III adow shadow to le the devil Ik like the German MU of 01 the ho story tor for lor such uch a paltry thing u as ua asa a ot of gold that never bm became emp empI empty I ty for tor much as e he be likes like gold h he love loves shade mor more Al AU day are r the streets deserted bt but no bO sooner b has the cult un set than the whole co conies pour pourIng Ing forth to enjoy the cooling ansi nd listen to the binds while promenading In ing rund round and ld rund round the pia plaus No other r city In the world cn can tur turn out so Q man many lne fine teams of 01 hor horses u a proud awl M graceful u as their masters and nd mistresses antI and on the other hand nowhere cn can 7 you le see so 10 many Ignoble mule teams teama and d such urh a tr ProcesSion ln of aristocratic carriage Th Thoe who lt cit In cr carriage drawn by mul mules appear not nota a Wt bit Ie less vainglorious than those be bind tb the highest stepping steed t and doubtless the Ibe former consider them Infinitely higher In the sial social lale scale than the he multitudes afoot On Sudy Sundays and holiday there Is such uch a adess dess deD throng ot of pedestrians and cr ear nl nag that one progresses but slowly and nl that I is just Juet what you OU wAnt the there I Is 1 so much to see In the WY way ot of genuine lol local color From the eUler eastern aide of 01 Puerto 11 del pint point where King Alfonso WU was fired upon b by some rel years ago ngo ngoa a 14 leids straight to another splendid bit Cf of local clor color in III th this Ila Orient OMente The latter I is a beautiful little park with a brna brons statue of 01 Philip JV IV In the center which II in said Id to b be te the mot most perfect work of lt its kind In Mid it ought to b be for thre three ot of th its greatest geniuses ot of the time to form torm I its the proportions The model taken take from lINGS INOS FAVORITE CHARGER w was sketched b by and carved b by Monta both In the carve dlf ferent branches of their ar sit and It wal was GalI Galileo who suggested that the lower part rt of oC U the statue be east Ild solid and the upper hll halt hollow In order to pr pre preserve serve re th the blance balance I It Wil was cat cast In Florn In 10 It Is II 19 let feet high and weighs 1 cwt yet the hore horse overt covert supported by the hind legs Ip and the inane mahe and appear to absolutely fot float In the air Round the oval garden of which this celebrated statue garen forms lorm the centerpIece Are scattered fourteen colossal statues ot of king and quen queens In brn bronse and mable marble Ner Near by on tb the let left II Is th Boyd lalace and on the right the ryal royal theater A Iw fits rs rode b be uld the Ite latter J yest col t dl di Isabel lubel hund Segunda with It n ont and queer f fin I In snowwhite TI rt th the PI PIasa de la las ortes In h Spanish hou house of it om I I is the Ihl bronze ri fl de lb the aul i Don QUixote It itt 1 tI ish ih iho t u uever ever Ier 1 is rl HUll und under r hl his lek hil hIs titled at it thi ig never did In hl l lit It 11 ot of Ill Its 1 Ir i 1 I h iii Ih I ot or the 01 tI th th Knight KIIhl on a nanc The Th ron monument was wa 1 r rde de n thus thu fallen Into I III re repUte on Ig II I and wa rans prison ot of Algier by tb 1 I Merced when lead ed ow o 1 I monument tl to a 1 It II |
