| Show r I What Well Dressed Women Will Wear l li i I Gallot Introduces a Gainsborough Gainsborough Gainsborough Gains Gains- borough Hat and Other Large Shapes Constantly Constant Constant- ly Reappear NEW V YORK Dec Dee 25 The The house of ot Callot CaBot always looking looking- for tor something new has sent sent- over to this country a steel blue velvet afternoon gown which is cut out In the peck neck and away from the arms anns With it goes a Gainsborough Gainsborough Gains Gains- borough hat of ot blue velvet with huge brown ostrich feathers it is worn tip tilted over one eye ec in the fashIon fashion fash- fash Ion of the duchess of ot Devonshire has a full tull crown of ot velvet and the plumes rise arid and fal over most of ot the surface There are two things about this costume both Interesting and import Import- ant The Tho fashionable women of ot New NewYork York Tork have voted the hat bat ugly the gown lovely and the combination but the two tl things that are established are re the wearing of ot an evening evening evening ev ev- ev- ev ening gown in the he afternoon and the recurrence of ot an an immense hat 5 The Tho New York Tork women did not nt wait walt for Callot CaBot t to project the former fashion ash fash ion ion for the gowns worn at some of ot the fashionable functions In the late afternoon this winter were once considered considered considered con con- only available for the even even- ing They were covered with Immense Immense Im Im- Im- Im mense manse coats trimmed with fur and suitable for the tho street When they were removed remo it looked like the chrysalis dropping from a butterfly I saw a woman come in to an afternoon afternoon after alter noon dance danco wearing a mahogany brown velvet gown and coat to judge by its but when she slipped off oU the coat the frock was waa flesh colored chiffon embroidered in cut steel and crystal dropping dropping- over overa a flesh colored lining cut low In the front quite transparent in back with shaped bell bell sleeves flowing well away from the arms and edged with fur Such frocks are eco economical and are area a delight to the woman who does not wish to change her frock at night nighttime time She says that her ancestors B wore short sleeves in the day time and that she does not feel awkward in hers and some of these sleeves mind you are aro really short One in a abright abright abright bright blue velvet gown Is only five inches long ending in a box pleating of the fabric and a a. deep ruffle of ot white tulle Picture Hats Again It is an old old f fashion this fashion this wearIng wearing wearing wear wear- ing of large picture hats with half low afternoon gowns It belongs to the time tone when women wore large hats in the evening and there is a belief bellet that this fashion may come back There will be no change of ot heart Inthe in inthe inthe the theatre management who will continue to refuse permission to women to wear hats unless they sit in boxes and few women care to hold the hat in the lap throughout the performance per per- but the fashion may come comeback comeback comeback back for tor restaurants although they again become a nuisance in dancing which is ts s the common common practice of ot most restaurants today For all of ot these aU affairs the milliners milliners milliners milli milli- ners are offering oftering hats of ot brilliant lace but the innovation of ot the Gainsborough Gainsborough Gains Gains- borough hat by Callot Canot may may bring about the use uee of chiffon velvet and huge ostrich plumes again The combination of bright blue and light lightbrown lightbrown lightbrown brown is not apt to find much favor but the usage of the heavy curley eurley feather is apt to be popular There are also many large hats for tor the street The sketch shows one of brown velvet running to a point back and front and sharply turned up at atthe atthe atthe the left side over o the brim there dangles a a. bunch of ermine tails and andas as the black flecks Hecks have reappeared on ermine after atter an absence of ot several seasons women lave have lave again taken a afancy afancy afancy fancy to this peltry Yet the Strikingly New Hat Is Small Small No wonder women are contused confused when they are told that the pains pains- Gainsborough Gains Gains- borough hat is in fashion and nd the high Grenadier hat that sits site like a drum on the head and half covers the eyes However Howe it would be a dull world If it one fashion ruled and it would also be a world filled tilled up with excessively ill dressed women The majors major's hat of ot black taffeta tat tat- feta or velvet exploited by Lanvin is well suited to some faces and personalities personalities per per- b but t the Gainsborough goes with other faces contributing to their loveliness There is plenty of room room for both In Ina a world which breeds variety NEW YORK Dec 25 It 11 It Behooves us to take serious notice of some of ot the new tendencies in o They may mar marnot maj not not be of ot serious import but their frequent showing in the new frocks h indicates otherwise There is the Introduction of the farthingale which is a distension at atthe atthe atthe the hips gained through the use ue of ot or thin reeds reeda It Is the By Anna Rittenhouse I B BROWN flOWN ROWN ette model VELVET HAT trimmed with ermine tails taits Georgette Georgette Georg Georg- I j t AI S r i it I. I 1 t a r X t J i jJ f I f f r. r l 1 ft I i J it 16 I successor to crinoline or hoops in inthe the hem of ot skirts S The credit for tor this innovation inno should go to a designer who lives in America for tor she began it six months ago and now the best of ot the French designers are showing it on the majority majority majority ma ma- of ot their gowns At the recent fashion fete tete of the French designers In New York fully a dozen models were shown that had the farthingale incorporated The best and most moat original of ot these were made by Lanvin in black taffeta with remarkable hats to match hats which struck the newest note in millinery mil mU- and which received high ap approval ap- ap They were a kind of ot orna ornamental ornamental ornamental orna mental busby something on the order of ot the high hats of the Grenadiers Grena Grena- diers made thoroughly feminine by byrow byrow row rows of ot closely plaited black taffeta They were high drum shaped affairs that almost covered the tho eyes and showed little of ot the hair in the back they were entirely of black taffeta when worn with the taffeta gowns but there was one of ot dark blue velvet velvet vel vet vet worn with another kind of ot frock reck There was a strong opinion that this competent woman Geanne Lan- Lan struck a a. original most note note for the coming season surel surely the combination of ot the farthingale and the drum majors major's hat was sufficient sufficiently ly original y to cause widespread com corn ment meat Primitive Gowns Again One of ot the new gowns that has been worn by a fashionable woman recently appears to havo have been adopted from the primitive clothes worn by by m men n in the Wagner operas The period is too far tar back to place It is is' of ot biscuit colored cloth trimmed with brown fur tur and velvet elvet and its beauty lies in the e eyes ees es of ot the be beholder be- be holder Of course you know that women literally took tool the clothes from men men's mens backs In the early days which was the first form torm of ot insurgency and suf suf- frage rage This gown of ot biscuit colored cloth is the kind they adopted in primitive days and some venturesome venturesome venturesome venture venture- some soul in has brought it back into fashion The straight line of ot the gown from bust to hem hemIs hemis hemis is broken by a silk sUk cord with tassels tassels tas tas- sels sets and the hem Itself is heavily laden with skunk and brown velvet The o mutton sleeves have deep wristlets elvet yel and flarIng flaring flar- flar Ing cuffs cutts of ot fur and there Is a wide band of ot fur tur to outline the deep yoKe YOle at the shoulders It is a tribute to the modern woman woman that the wearer carried off oft this gown with distinction She was skating in It and ben beneath Its HB thick I hem she wore high laced boots of n Russian leather with a bright polish I and above its thick brown collar she wore a sunset orange turban trimmed at the side with a high glittering buckle of ot cut steel What of the Shirtwaist After one one has b been en a a. large number number number num num- ber of ot the new frocks the first question question question ques ques- tion that occurs is Where is the shirtwaist It seems to have been left out of ot the present reckoning l Frock rock after frock follow tollow each other in succession and a coat is added or omitted but rarely does a coat hide any kind of ot a a. separate shirtwaist This verdict of the designers does not interfere with the habit of ot certain certain tam tain women in wearing wearing- white shirtwaists shirtwaists shirtwaists shirt shirt- waists with mannish suits Nor should it The wash blouse is an American institution and it has been invented to serve certain needs these needs exist and the shirtwaist should not be abandoned |
