Show I i Q n JV t i r j Af CZ yh et Z t fv y i iri r. r M 1 I I I iM i'M t Ii a At III III hi s L 4 I 4 c i Gt d. d s sf E i f piff s 3 h ty t Y Yit S it d c n'S T jb n F I y S 'S i ij f Pa uin's aims aim's Spring a N 9 r in in Satin ain p i Styles Lines and Colors Adapted to Complexion Complex Complex- ion Figure and Age Age- Vogue Vague of Light Shades Shades- Mauves and Grays in Great Fancy Demand Demand F ncy Braid T Trimmings I VO 0 distinct types of or the dressy tailored tat tai lored costume are worn They are i. i Y One is the t Jl metrically opposed i Balkan whose distinguishing character character char acter Is Its stiff stitt belt the other 47 bits litIS it h semi fitted coat and a simply made These two radically different styles are ae ue a positive boon to the omen of ot America i and ana Europe f for r while none of or the th eminent clothes artists in fa and about tithe tb Rue flue de la In Paix have lost Jost their adr ad- ad r for the narrow hipped broad broad- type the recently designed are certainly amenable to which beto be- be to those women of ot unfashionable Ie th tr who to who are ambitious to keep abreast fashions p the Broadly speaking the well tailored suit conservative lines whether or or- notTO not noti N TO ro en i at the tho waist alst Consequently there it 4 danger that the purchaser of ot such costume will wili have cause to regret heri herit her it i gain aln or to think hardly of ot the tailor a o iO sells it to her J t- t Innumerable New cw cw Shades 11 Zi S 'S new lIew shades of ot the primary colin col- col iMo 1 appear in to the wide-wale wide diagonals l hJ uh woven loosely worsteds the theand l and l. silk mixtures the per o and the tho host of ot novelty materials ale red In tn the development of ot high class 1 t C S to be e worn dur during ng the thet I. I l d ngot j of 1910 Ino Therefore any woman i t of ot complexion proportions and und I. I be able to readily find Ond a mateie mate mate- ie ii t ad a and d color which will emphasize her ber iI points t. t i J cause a majority of ot the tailored cos- cos ordered red at this season arc are Intended i to to-do to do duty for foi various arious occasions during spring pring summer and early carl autumn a aher her er of ot the tb new models now being a m lJ have a a. a suggestion of warmth In iE tie he J- J weaves offset onset by a certain lightness I f tone which will u at t least east be pleasing to toJ J milder weather he arrives rh jeye 6 t 51 Since lace middle i aged and even I elderly omen en have arrived at the conclusion that li and the dar darker er shades hades of browns brown s fin and blue bille serve serc to bring brine Irin out faded stresses eases eiltS pallid cheeks and dull eyes one oner it t r w I I w f d st t w wL L r I In s sv v f 45 iI y r 5 fi I Inay nay may confidently expect to sea see at eYer every public out door plate place patronized b bv br t feminine representatives of l leisure and wealth dressy tailored costumes suggesting suggestIng suggesting suggest suggest- ing soft misty lightness produced by pale neutral shades dashed dashed TV with browns greens violets and blues and blues liberally Interwoven interwoven Inter Inter- woven with whit white white- Trimmings Trimming's 1 Placed laced Below the Hips The position of ot coat trimmings has been een radically changed within a the past few weeks Time waS wai when braiding buttons buttons but but- ut tons heavy healY lace or silk applications were found about the waist waistline line and the lower portion of or the outer garment was was' neglected In so far so-far far as as' decoration was WIlS concerned But now now Dame Damo Fashion who is as fond of ot novelty as any child chilil de de- decrees trees crees that trimming or some sort shall be placed on or below the hips either In Inthe inthe the form of ot an elaborately decorated side seam or an embroidered design at front and back For 1701 several reasons this new nev scheme of ot trimming is an admirable one ode If It material mate mate- rial of a n very light tone adds greatly to the apparent en the of-the the figure a slender slender slen slen- le der effect fie may be gained ai i edby n by the use s of r braid put on to for form long Jong lines from the waist downward or by slashing the sides of ot the coat and parallel applying applying parallel garnish garnish- Ings 1003 Or It If the tendency to slenderness vcr verge toward attenuation an nn appearance of ot plumpness may be loaned to the figure by having havinga a broad baud band and ot of biased satin define dOne the bottom ottom of or the coat tA yoke to-yoke- yoke yoke- shaped application of ot coarse dyed lace or heavily embroidered silk about the hips w A Russian Creation by Bernard I ard materially helps to widen the outline ne and and- an au exceptionally broad belt licIt takes takes Inches Inches from a long na narrow row back Shorter and Closer cr Coats The rule role which applies especially to themore the themore themore more conservative suits of chiffon broadcloth broadcloth broad- broad cloth and wool mixtures Is bs the to-the to the effect that coats must be e shorter and fit a trifle more clo closely cly than did those of ot last year It n seems to be be an unwritten law that none of ot these new nev garments shall be dou dou- ble ble- ble The best idea of ot the tho new short bort coat may be gained from the white mohair from one of the tho most popular dressmakers of or Paris Taris whose models models models mod mod- els are ate marked by n quaint simplicity which appeals to women of refined taste The salient features of ot this coat are a half belted odd rolling collar col lar faced with heavy beavy white moire a 1 half half- diagonal closing of ot the front and eye- eye bone buttons Modern Version of the Pull Two new skirts recently Imported from France show the moll modern ern version of ot the tho pull pullback The simplest model In lu this tola dragged In In style is gored gorell to fit lit the figure figure figure fig fig- ure In the center front only the being gathered to the belt line me across the nd back A separate piece is Joined and about half halt its Us its length to the 61 skirt at this Is attached directly across across' tho front I. I but Is free at t the sides while the tho upper Is drawn Into this shaped bandIn band bandla la In form torm The back drapery arranged ar ar- sr- sr sash panels one ranged in two straight shorter than the other lends a up hitched appearance appe to the back ack which a novice In lu the tho development development development de de- mistake be might Imagine to a of ot the skirt But ft is really sash typical of ot the modish overhanging drapery with the at the foot toot of skirt distinctly distinctly distinctly dis dis- the skirt dragged In The other in the puff style has bas a b bias a seam at back and front and only its circular caught in around the feet with wilh a shaped circular flounce mounted with acord a cold cord beading heading I ot 7 Neglected While all a the tailored skirts fit smoothly smooth smooth- ly Iy over the hips few of ot the undraped type are plainly gored for the llie plaited favorite continued S' S to reign despite the warfare made upon it by certain prominent prominent nent on both sides of ot the At At- lantic Sometimes gores are aro used entre entro deux with plait palt clusters again narrow P Pa ari ris 3 Tailor T lor Made in Gray Gravy sIde sid plaits are overlapped by shaped and piped panels and not infrequently the skirt consists of ot seven exceedingly Iy wide box plaits stitched flatly to Just above the knee and thence swinging loosely with the movements of ot the wearer In the merry war now being waged between between between be be- tween tho the advocates of ot the conservative dressy and the Balkan modes stress is laid upon the fact that really stout women do not cot look well In either the plaited skirt or the belted blouse But to a genuine sartorial artist what feat In the line of ot clothes is Impossible The leading mo succeeded succeed cd in adaptIng adapting adapt adapt- adapting ing the empire idea to figures of ot ungainly proportions and are not to be vanquished by straight girdles and an array of ot plaits Fascinating Delicate Tones Tone Never were maUTes and grays In greater demand There Is something so alluring about their delicate tones that It Is 1 difficult to resist the temptation to Indulge in at least one dressy 1 of ot that order older even though frank frauk friends assure one that the tho complexion Is more sallow than pale palo and the locks ashen I rather than golden And why forego the pleasure of ot wearing those delectable tints when white placed next to the face ace will I offset the effect of ot any auy shade however trying Moreover these delicate tones In mauve and gray are arc to be found In all manner of ot attractive materials notably the silk ellk and wool s satins tins the radium weaves etc In these lightweight stuffs as IlS In the worsted worsted worsted wor wor- sted m mixtures turcs the range of colors is enormous enormous enormous enor enor- and particularly attractive are the faded greens dull blues pale brownsand brownsand browns brownsand and soft rose shades with any of ot which may be combined white as well vell as that touch of black which the true rarely omits from her ber costume Bargain Shopping Shopping- Is b Hazardous O Odd d shades In lightweight materials material's are precisely what the woman who must dress smartly on a limited Income Is searching for during a tour of ot the shops at this season So many of ot this seasons season's debu deba debutantes debutantes have baTe already announced their engagements engagements engagements en en- that as us soon as Lent begins to wane walle cards of Invitation to week Easter-week marriages will be hosting floating about the tho town and It If the who wishes to be reported re re- reported ported as among those present does not bestir hert herself elf she will have bave difficulty in securing the services of the clever little little lit Ut- tle visiting dressmaker who might read read- readIly readily ily fly blossom Into a II haughty priced high modiste had bad she sufficient courage to tack Madame before her ber name and open opeo an au avenue arcane atelier A round of ot the best shops during the first month of spring teaches the discernIng discerning discerning discern discern- ing shopper that the many very charm- charm Ing lag looking dressy now being offered at what seem to be absurdly low prices are aro not Dot bargains simply because they are not up-to up up up-to-dato dato and oud cannot be made so Moreover there Is no DO Investment Invest invest- melt meat as hazardous as a coat costume of the dressY drossy type as a single alteration may absolutely ruin its lines and rob It of every atom of ot Its original smartness Satin Han lIaN Lost None of Its It Charm An aristocratic young matron who finds time to attend to her social socia obligations despite her bel active Interest in the Ameri Amen American can suffragette movement was one ene of the first of ot New Yorks York's fashionable set to toa a adopt opt the Balkan style because she realIzed realized real real- Iced that her ber exceptionally tall tail figure required precisely the shortening effect produced by a belt a 0 hip trimming a skirt band hwd Therefore she ordered from a n Russian coat costume of striped ed satin In two dull tones of ot rose The Tho skirt which sweeps the floor door all round has bas a train deml of wide side plaits while the front and sides also platted plaited extend to Just below belo the knees where they aro are met by a 3 broad band of ot heavy bey lace bordered at tho the bottom by bythe bythe the deep hem been of ot the skirt A band baud of similar lace dyed to match the darkest tone of ot the satin is applied to the coat Just below the narrow belt The loose loosse loose draped three quarter length sleeves are are finished with wide wille turned-back turned cuffs of tho lace and a D flat turned-over turned collar of ot lace trims the neck and fronts With this t costume Is 19 worn a n black velvet faced rose straw hat trimmed with black maline maline maline ma- ma line and white roses Theater Gowns Are Aro Not tar Jar x The silver sheen sheen which distinguishes i iso so EO many of ot the fabrics made Into theater gowns does docs not render their wearer Inthe in inthe inthe i the least degree conspicuous Otherwise I the ultra fashionable well bred American woman would world not consider those materials materials mater mater- for she goes gos to a playhouse to see Iee seethe seethe the actor s and not 10 0 o draw attention from them The costumes intended for theater going are distinguished d' d dby by their elegant simplicity of ot design desin albeit there often is a hint bint of an au effort to attain a picturesque effect In a n dull blue bluD sh shade de of ot a well well- known New ew York dressmaker has just developed a princesse costume having a 1 plainly gored petticoat finished with adeep adeep a n deep hem bem over which falls tails a tunic of ot the same material Startle Starting from the shoulders shoulders shoulders ders the overdress displays a square square necked under or of blue net embroidered embroidered embroidered em em- broidered with blue lue and sl sliver silver vcr Deep darts d cause it to clearly define the bust waist alst and hips and aDd Just below the knees it is slightly drawn upward and backward In 10 pannier style from w wl wh point it merges with the train of ot lower skirt Embroidered net caps f mount satin puffed putted I banded after the manner of the slot sic worn during during- the late fifties for tor fast fas is no respecter of periods and corn comb them according to her ber whims The Tonic Tunic Takes Take Various Another version of ot the tunic coca worn orn in a box boa at the tho New Theater over a 11 gored skirt of peach-colored peach r s which barely touched the floor door all aU scot aro arouTh The Tho square-necked square closely fitted o odress 0 dress of black satin was veiled with yen ver and gold embroidered black net elbow sleeves of scant proportions the neck were wre sharply outlined t bands of peach satin and below a b br girdle of ot matching material extended tunic tunk which scarcely covered the hip hit front and gradually sloped away 1 f tl the sides terminating in a a. sharp i pat p pat at the ba back baeL k of the skirts skirt's hem bem Of Ot the same Name party porty were a debut In a nattier blue sa satin tin gown artistic artist draped about shout the bodice and skirt t r silver sUver lace and her elderly chaperone chaperon a ht necked high necked h-necked sleeved long-sleeved pale I g satin robe ela elaborately embroidered i T white The use uso of ot pale tints with wither ver er or white is by no means n Il nIdea aidea Idea Ila with dressmakers for the vogue been revived at various periods since introduction centuries ago but In r 11 of ot the galleries hung with portraits portrait long dead beauties are to be seen of such really artistic g goof go goot of ot rose ros azure maize malzo or green relic rell with silver or white as are worn the tho animated beauties beau tics of ot the pre century Gold bullion and anil braids are used in both brilliant and dull cOon eltI cO off on many of tho the very dressy costume I silk sUk satin or silken and wool r ture tare But they are more a n feature the gowns worn by women who habit habl ly Iy go about In carriages and in t tI days of heated topped limousine mo rant mot fabrics of the lightest weight adapted for any season of ot the year Pearl Tearl headings and embroideries an Ideal trimming for a debutantes debutante's s IS' IS ceremonious J costume and for tor br bri maid luncheons theater gowns gowns gowns' and Innumerable occasions demanding elaborate style of garb such gan garr tags Ings aro are extensively e employed T r seems |