| Show t aft l i ON 1 IN NORTHERN AFRICA I t I Interesting I E lr Trip I to Tetuan T RIM Pirates by No Means Menns Past and Gono S 5 Si i u It tI M It fl riI 1 tl I u w w w w w w w wI I Special Correspondence I AN A N GI G I 1 EH E It H Morocco i Sept Hept uncertain laws lava of ot this land of oC off f Mohammed have established established what Is la known knowlI as is a 1 Sanitary r Coun Court Council Council cil oil whoso whose rule rulo ex extends extends exT tends three miles be beyond beyond T yond the walls of oC Tan Tangier TangIer gier glen Farther than that Europeans are arc not permitted to go cither Ith r singly or In companies com panIcs without without one or more Moorish soldiers as ns escort Now Nol find and then a foolhardy tourist tries It Il but seldom returns to 10 tell the talo tale of or his adventures Not long ago a II was murdered In this way wa Ills JIll government a n money muno paytent pay payment tent ment from tho the sultan but the murder murd r ern em wore were never punished nor any effort made to tu discover who they were wen is little doubt that tho the soldiers them Helves s e 1 rest the f to alleged protectors of the people lu Iu their capacity of mounted po police lice were at nt tho the bottom bottum of ot the affair If not the actual murderers Conditions here are akin ul to those thos we found In Cuba during regime when Spanish ling hud things nil all their theIron own on way wa with the defenseless Islanders before l Uncle Samuel Hanuel como came to their rescue Shortly titter lifter the Maine Maino was waR exploded a n Red lied Cross Cros party lal of lIf which the writer was a n member had occasion to go from to the next village three miles distant on 01 foot an as there was no other way wa Everything was quiet ns IS the grave and wo we started blithely enough down tho the laurel be Immediately ordered beck back backby beckby by the captain of the Spanish forces that guarded gunnell the town to wait for tut military escort e In vain aln we wo protested that aunt ouo was a n neutral mission to benefit the suffering ot or either side and that we were not afraid to make the short Journey Journe ut at midday on an ap at apparently alJ J deserted highway especially as ns the th ICED CROSS OF OJ protect Us its Is wearers even cven In war timer f r fIn rIn In every part of the tho world Said the You l would t surely be killed before b rore you had gone gope ten rods IOd Hungry soldiers with guns gun II In their hands rind such an nn opportunity for loot 10 lt before them care caro nothing for your you Cruz Crus ru Hoja All AH along tho ho road are arc with soldiers In them who would shoot you without parley tho the Instant you yon got within range of the tho loopholes holes and on every hilltop hill lop are hidden lu posted by b General Weyler to 10 keep loep stiles miles and std from Irom passing Who could tell whence tho ho bullets came camo that killed you If It I allowed you OU to toliO io liO without the tho escort I 1 alono alone would be le held responsible for tor your our murder 80 Su there was WM no help for It and to the village we went In the tho midst ml st of a 1 troop of ragged raged soldiers every one ona of whom wham looked like an on assassin In disguise Piracy Is 11 also nn an occasional pleasant pleasantry ry of Moorish life Recently the Prosper Corin a 1 vessel engaged In Inthe tho the SpaniSh trade was looted on the Mediterranean by HeeHan pi pl pirates rates The foreign ministers minister went In Inn Inn ina n a body bod accompanied by their drago dragomans dragomans mans to demand restitution on behalf of at France and antl Spain from Mohammed ni m Torres tho the minister of ot state They The will viII get It some day but never so long as na the sultan can find for delay dela Only the other daya dayn day da daI a n I few miles oft off the coast of Morocco and almost within range of ot the guns of Gibraltar a 11 British felucca was drift drifting driftIng ing placidly on the tide In a dead calm when eight long boats filled with swarthy Moors pulled out from the shore share with vigorous sweeps of their ours ears It was the pi pl rates again descendant of that famous band bam of at water rats which these seas In n tho the middle ag lI and despoiled every vessel they could put their claws on A felucca Is l only a n 11 small small craft who whore whose e Mule full equipment Is Is III wine vine and nn sailors Therefore resistance was useless and the HIrtH In the long boots boats were waro masters of t the situation 0 They lId not killas their ancestors would have done merely fur for the fun of ot the piracy being bing b too loo easy as asIn In tho the twinkling of an eye eyo e they stripped the tho th little ship taking away awny the entire cargo alt all the spare canvas the cap captains cn belongings and about n a thousand dollars in sliver silver coin then turning their attention to the crew rew thoy they toto the clothing from their backs and even SLIPPED OFF OPI THEIR SHOES white while the tho victims afraid of their lives lIes submitted subin without a 1 murmur When there Was Willi no more to steal tho the follow tollow followers ers ere of ot sent a IL a few rew parting shots at tho the ship shin flourished their their r long sharp knives menacingly and nd pulled back to shore Nothing has haR yet el been done clone about the outrage but England never lets Ida her sons son go s o of t foreign wrongs and It In is probable that before long JOllA there thele will be lc In the thc about the tho sultans ears cars In n this case caso the sultan was tyas not nol to blame Ho lie hue ban many times marched troops against the tiffs Riffs but Jut all nil in vain aul now he hehM hoe has set n a large largo price urlee on every pirates heM It Ills Is lit another case coe of or first catch your e r hare har ha In Moroccan dialect riff the tho mine emo as the Italian il rl rIViera Viera or seashore lea hol The rhe range of coast co t hills in to whoso whose secluded valleys rind I hidden pockets these people have hn their settlements mo ntO el cl elf by bythe b bythe the Arabs Rate Rafe In their fastnesses seH I the Biffs have havo proved themselves to be Oven even more ferocious landsmen than sea robbers a n thousand times timeR more moie feared t by the peaceful subjects of ot Morocco than by their countrymen who do dl commerce on 01 the Mediterranean Comparatively little In Is known the The rhe tangle of oC wild moun mountains within which most mast of ot them thorn live almost overlooking the southern coast COl t of Europe Is ns nil unexplored today ns as the heart of Africa It Is said that the tho men and women descended from the Barbary rangers are arc s and make theIr valleys valleR blossom ns mI till lie rose 1081 surrounding rounding Hilt themselves with many by b the Ilia simple arts of smuggling and robbery Mons Mon Iuey Duvey tier tiel a French explorer says any they ole ate wonderfully well armed possessing a armament antI and several thousand thol ul n guns In view of these drawbacks ones onell ex of ot Morocco are somewhat limited With Ith only ono one guide of there Is probably as ns much reason to ho bo as aR of any ny other pirate you may toay visit viat 1811 tho the environs of ls seeing all nil of consequence In ono annn days In s time At low tide you may ride down lown U to the tho beach bench and off to tn tho the eastward where ruins of ot Ro Ito Roman Itoman man walls walla temples and amphitheaters amphitheater tell ten of a n great grent city which once stood upon ullon the shining sands This was the ht ancient ls which tradition says Bays sn was founded by b a 11 son of nero Her Hercules cules nod the widow of Antaeus In its ta le neighborhood 1 was long 1011 pointed out the tho grave of the tabled fabled giant said to contain his skeleton sixty cubits lung long At any numerous legends that cling to It attest tho the antiquity of at the place History tells us Uil that the tho Em Emperor Emperor Jeror Augustus Augutus raised it to the rank tank of a free tree city and that In the time of It Claudius It became n a Roman rind capital of the province of oC Here lIere In ancient times the galleys were laid up In midwinter Just t tn aside nilde n the mouth of nf f f n a small river wirier which Sows Hows Into the Mediterranean but is III isnow isnow now useless leSIl for tor any un sort of or shipping hipping the harbor beIng completely cut tilt oft off from the sea sen by lIy a n huge hure sandbar Across this historic stream now known ns os Cued el le Ye houd hood or 01 ot Jews Jes river may still be traced ed the ruins of a Roman Homan bridge and ond near by b are the tho remains of ot an c e From this point a picturesque road turns Inland through the or mountain Rugged heights rising on either side are arc broken by a succession of ravines In which vegetation fed by ferruginous springs s Is la extraordinarily rich Cork and aM olive trees myrtle and OM dwarf oaks make dense shade honey honeysuckles hone honeS honeysuckles suckles S and aid passion vines run riot amid 1 thickets of heath bay ba and yellow broom Hero here are gardens garden villas to which the tho wealthy residents ot of Tangier In summer eummer summertime summertime time to tJ t enjoy tho the cool MOUNTAIN S and tho the pure vuro water of Innumerable springs Another hours Jours rIde brings you Oli Olito to Cape Cal with Its lighthouse which Uncle Samuel helps to maintain It t was wall built at fit the tha ex expense eXpense pense of the tho Moors 1 by y n a French archi architect but Is 18 kept up by h the various vailous for tOl foreign or eign government which arc Interested In the Mediterranean U trade etch eich con eon contributing Its annual quOla juola litter After ns as ascending c Its tower tad enjoying n wide wille view of shining sea BM and hills and far away awny on the horizon a rim tint rima tinta a n glittering sliver silver hue lino which marks mark tho the northern border borM of the desert you are offered coffee cortee rind bread brend by the care caretakers caretakers caretakers takers of the lighthouse and nn never nover was nectar and nn ambrosia co so acceptable If It early enough In tho the day tiny you may moy continue the ride to the tho caverns of oC Ran Ras near mar the village of or which have served ns OR stone atone since the tho days das 8 of ot the tho Roman and from which nil all the millstones for tor grinding wheat that ore arc used In the province ot of Tangier langler ai ar ao still cut Returning to the city whoso gates you OU must reach before sunset or remain nil all night out fiUt outside side you may vary var the c by h crossing ro t the Iho plain 1 Instead c d of o f taking the beach hench road On that lint purl art of ot the tho th plateau nearest to tho he or cita Jel you see innumerable able tombs hone honer combed In tho the living rock which WillI tradition lion tion says were tho the of ot the ancient Horrible to these rocky graves graes where corpses have havo lain until corruption wrought Its per perfect feet work arc are now no utilized ns as prison cells Each 1 contains some somo wretched be beIng beIng being Ing whose worst offense It is I probably that of ot not being able abB to pay his debts held fast fost by Ii a 1 chain Just long lon enough to permit him hIm to f In the tho door of or his hili tomb by 1 day da and crawl Into It at ut for tor shelter th lter It two Io days dA to go ro to on and the tho government Insists on furnishing n a SOLDIER ESCORT nt at your our The customary pay payment pa payment ment of ot a Is half halt a 1 dollar a 11 day ay and his hIli keep that of oC a n mount mounted ed cd II soldier double the tho th price Leaving Tangier rangier by the tho seagate carute you ou follow Collow thu the beach about a mile and lul then tutu turn In Inland inland land to avoid the sand hills Uy Ily JI and by II you OU come tome to a little stream fringed with pink Dink and white oleanders which follows tho the road all the tho way n to tint tilts mountains At 1 n R miserable clay vII vil village loge lage called you pass the tho night pitching tents In Itt the open Mf If you OU have them hear or If not patronizing the wretched caravanserai The latter Is nn tun immense square building contain In u Il large open Ol en court with a colon nile ado around It Into which a number of If rooms roams open These apartments contain nothing In tho the world but dirt rind and vei CI min In its the midst of ot which you OU are ex expected expected to spread your rugs on ott the floor anti snatch what sleep you ou can with mules and horses stamping close by in inthe inthe the tho corridor occasionally poking I social able abe noses nO OB In at nt the tho doorway Your morning ablutions must be performed nt at the public trough where whore the die animals drink and as you have brought your our own food it Is In safe to say ea that you OU will prefer to take tak It al fresco on tho the sandy plain From the stony uton I road roud Is like climbing stairs now straight up and down over ocr overn overa n o series of low but rugged hills until you OU reach Tench the tho bridge which spans the Bou Dou river Here Mere you get tel the first glimpse of ot Tetuan and the thu most picturesque scene In Morocco co Begirt with a 1 lofty wall set net at short Intervals with massive aro towers the city shows howl from tho the dl tance only a II few mosques and a n heavy frowning heap of masonry that torts Corm the citadel It t occupies the tha slope elope of n a 1 hill bill two hundred feet above the river which flows through a n broad abroad volley valley rich with the most brilliant vegetation Tetuan has a a population of twentythree or four tour thousand mostly Moors oora and Jews Before Defore the tha Spanish war there were many Spaniards here most of whom were Wiled killed or have haye since lound tho the too politically uncomfortable to live In The city was found founded ed ell In n 1492 n by the tha refugees from Gren Oren Grenada Grenado ada ado some somo of whoso whose proud descendants still retain the title deeds ds of their an nn ancestors ancestors vast ast estates In Andalusia and the keys kes of ot their stately palaces In Grenada Above the town Is the has kas hasbah kasbah bah with a large space of open ground aunt enclosed within the walls Tho The town Is also alno surrounded by high walls and locked up Ul at night A good deal ot or orthe the city elty Is In ruins having never been rebuilt since battered down by the tha flU guns uns liS The streets sheets In the Jow Jety JowIsh tali Ish quarter are arc tho the NARROWEST AND DIRTIEST I burn huu ever seen so narrow narro that ac no actually two taro persons eon can hardly walk abreast between the tho houses and the these lanes are further darkened by b frequent arches thrown across In the Mohammedan Inc pat of or town which witch la is much cleaner aro some gome very handsome resi residences dences denees to wealthy Moors Most of these mansions have fountains of runnIng water In their lr exquisitely tiled ards n IL I l Alhambra and ire rehires covered with passion lowers and fragrant jessamine Jes Owing to Its suddenly dwindled population house rent Is III absurdly cheap In Tetuan and andone one can earl obtain a n regular pal palace palace palace ace tor for almost nothing There Thoro Is a II good toad deal enl to Interest one here In tho the gunsmiths shops which ore tiro said to be bethe bethe the beat belt In Morocco In the silk factor factories fed ies which turn out scarves alas Ij ll and ant gorgeous handkerchiefs and In the pot potteries potteries teries situated In ht caverns outside the town where wonderful or Moor Moorish MoorIsh ish I h Iles are made The views lows too mo RIO worth coming far tar to sec green Val Valley al alI I Icy ley and river gardens and olive groves groes environed by II rugged hills hili nod ami overtopped by Ireni Hosmar the mountain |
