Show AWALK 4 THROUGH HANKOW xpoilencoH of1I11 l American in Cltlima The lnrrt lion tout Iiituilor City = = = = rf sorter iMiftiA Ijtok tl he Slates nut tan lit CMntu fr rv Of es r i fjjteriof II utmost lairl Dimtriita CMntu Keitiumut > r I Hti Uoimi bttlra ad HJltrmetfi Si tilltw the Ckimt ta Sm II still tl II tltai toX1 a Itff HoiM Hrnl ad lye JAtUI of Ike j g l ChitilC1HVJdmirln > t neliltltitttrbil < > nllitUlube r of Hi SI III i I I r net II C1MPOfttor1 III IOSK 01 me present war stay bring about an era of travel and exploration Inlhlna f At its nwiiy great cilies uf ne empire hive lever been mile l by foreigner There are certain f province contain IlIg more pe s H le than the whole Unl r Sir i ulnch II has always been sav < I and there are hUll t q J < tribes and 1 clan which Ir 1k unknown wilt people of 1 n nvt oild Take fur instance II iki How ninny American tb U 01 them The ordinary e anrol understand Iheinand still uiclitre and there all over China i Iii Lrtand l custom of their t ibtr lo not bind the feet Thy 1 IItJmllltd I hat Instead of s u I In drill wear ring off of-f j f n Itiinr t neck There are jl I Cb i who do nothing but beg 1 t tt s < maser clans who are 11 > rs s ration generation I s ti i Nntics up the porcelain f t till la and how little inform a sr ue tout the province burn I o bur-n l n in mil Thibetr lamer n I H 4v ol Chinese cities have i sit I but these are usually miter I alto have been carried i i r uh Shanchai and Canton j e tt I you that all v hlnese I cllle t tv s nt 11 Hcreas tie tact Is I the c e loon stiller as much as our t IU 111 < and every cre it center smc s ltd 1 have found lull of s H re t n > itch I have found no s < i I r i 4 au CTKIIOUi IIANkOH j i tilk with me lor Instance i s 1 illi < great city of Hankow It contain a million people It lias I bit as Chicago It It I turronndeil by a soul as high l as a threelory house and < o lfl dlr wide I that three railroad train could run aide by aide upon it without touchIng touch-Ing Inside those wall there Is I A mass of narrow sneer lined with one two and Ihrte storied hou < ea Cutting through those there are lane and cross streets and most ol the streets are ill let wide I The lanes are often not more than to feel wide anti both meet and alleyn are covered with the vilest of lime and you pick your way Irr lh i cl br lh through a miu of Indescribable nlth at IOU go through them The widest ol the streets are the trial liuMini thoroughfare walled w ith > ktore and hops and which nrr packed with a main of Chines humaniiy from lunrls until dark This mass surges thl way and that It u I worn than jam at A country fair and laborer carrying all t lIdf ware push their way through It The I narrower Ire Is are little I mini than Alley walled with houses cumprli lag of factories ilwlli IK und 1 hutinris establishments The entrance lo many of there are merel hole In the walk Other hate side dour leading lo court and other Introduce you Into the shops ol mechanic where vou see 1 ilrO coolie doing the thousand and one things ot a busy Chinese city alkmg I thruugh these lane the lor either teem lo lie I Inking his life In Ills hand The itreeti arena narrow that you can stand In I the middle and press the opposite wall with IOu hands To men can i 1 artily pass and you instinctively Instinct-ively 4rour ell In I > our dramas to tighten your shun and keep out ol col Ililom which appear minimal at e > cr curse lie re cornea a coolie bare backed and bare Iegged Me 11 one ol the Ihoutand lop carnrr of the town A bar sin l feel ul tanf real on has shoulder and nom the end of till lung tao great bucket each holding fur gallon ol the sliest ul lop lie I come toward ou on a luingmg trot and the buckets screw up and down and the lop slrlauhea I lo and Ira a > he paue you You put your inelllng bottle to r our none draw your knem close together di hue the I wall to I let him ko b > lie hind him come two Kowllng China men carrying I hidti They hive a hall Ion of raw hides swung In the center of a pole hlch rat upon their shoulders and they grunt amt grunt In a hariniMiy of woe a they rush toward you Other laborer lollow behind with other load and 1 you note that every couple has ill own pecu iar grunt or Kiund Some cry O ah u ah hue I I he Otto 0 ho fg 1 he alt he men on the wlMtvti hate their own grunt and even truce working alone nuke pa modc nom 01 the moat horilble kind to help the h In their work I 1IIK form 07 THK HHHLBARKOW Hut liehlml theae laborer come another michine which hat a screech of its on It in I the Hankow wheelbarrow wheelbar-row with a half a Ion of lrti ht alrapped lo ha I > ld It almost serapes the waIN and you would be round up by II were r I there not an open doorway In which you could nttp rinie wheelbarrow are all I made o it lo screech out their sun ol toil and t their r laryn is I a piece of bamboo which is I purpcnel I fitted hero ilolnlj hot it presses arniml the wheel ol the barrow Thete Ito rraas are unlike onuy other you see In China and they are peculiar the province oft I luneh hip the time you have jumped out of the way of one ol them IOU find yourself rushing Into onieilihiK else There are dints I Chinese I nl hoc W lack and ugly iMltered with must anl I there are net low dog covered wllh merge and lieu The hog try to run between your legs I The dugs nap at ion and while they will let the Chine to by without lurking they call recognlin a Inrelgner rr r Three block away and they will howl until he fe out ol sight now THE citisui no ii HKI < Hut It t mgo into the biulneal part ol the titles and lAke a look at the itorr There are ten of thousands of ibeni and they are packed together like the liooih of a fair They are all optne Ito I-to the Mieel mid the moil of them are lilted with cuitomor They are wade I ulth shelve and IvteU feet iquare make a bin lore Some ol them luve cement II ion tome are board and I others no II > ort but dirt The ilnbo > ril hang up and down the mores Inileail ol ncros the top as w lib ui tunas signs ae so many that they almost till tfto nlnei They nearly cover Ihu fiont of mime ol the shop and thu drug lores advertise hoc patent tntdl cine by lIch tlgnboards f These hots are pushed this way and that by the crow lit which continual move through them What a curious crowd it u lump up on thin atone sad take a lookup look-up and down the Mrect A river ol Chinese humanity in i lowing both way More 1 you mixing in Anti out In an evrrclnneing sin am of blue while red and fI browns There are coolie by the hundreds earning great burdens i bI nitre are coohis I rrI liametteil In big wluellurrows which wound load down a wagon tootles tarrying barrel ol oil boxes ol ten busts 1 ol brick buckets 01 duck and m sli irt ever thing undrrthe Chinese sun There Are men rustling along with the bit chair ol numUrlni und with the little chairs ol women Tllere I iredirt baytblhehundred < who hue greuy p stalls hanging down their III r dirty hooch such I who look at you and yell out baby kidnaper or foreign devil a soon i aotir back Illumed There are women who seals almost lo Ml IM they hobble atonic on their mull lated ltd There are old Linn s tit big spectacle and 11 oung < Inn um ti-t tm silk gowns Thee I are JnJinand I dudes scholar and servants UK returns and mechanic each In I his own dres iiiHlnng und shoving Ids wit lliriitult 111 t alias There are < uecr Chlnanitn rum the country with great straw hat timed up at the tide who gawk along nke a farmer boy during lilt first I visit to New York and there are dllelante blase Chinese gentlcnun who move slowly along 1 and keep up timid dignity I as best they can In Ibis eie chanting lumen of Chinese humanity VI I KK CMINKSE TRAUI Keep your place upon the stone and note the queer thing that are going on all around you the street Is I narrow but it Is I etude narrower by the peddlers 111 I s < tMllers It seems lo be tree for all and the ihoemiker with n box Ike I tint of a blacksmith lta and lews away In the street half IOIIr the jhurs ol his customem while they waf lie use tacks the Iliads of which 110 as big asa as-a cockle lo hold the Hole 1 All I instead of leather he puts on totes otrl > ih lur the on then is I a fortune 1l1Ir with n lot ol forms and card about him His finger nadi are a loot In length and he can tell you your put and your future by the star What is I thai veil of black hanging against the opposite wall Therr is 4 man ins blue gown standing betid It He hen a box of money tear him ami 1 his customers are many He ti srlling omclhlng It loukt liku hone lur and those who h I carry away Inn strands which i < s of rum milt which u c b inlo Hie whit wall ii a Mil g lly brus i ts U I noser No they are not fly hrusn they are Ion switches ol I 1 ruts hair which the Ch sure buy to braid Into bear I ass Thtreuagrcal I I loh trade In hair and cartltwfs uof fAI it are brought from Cures every tea and tile pstoneru of false hal Cony ut a regal business I bjught n cal m jclf In Hankow It cost me 2s r nl until Chinese eratit bought y us ui the ume lime I carried my c c hum i mi weeks n01 I hid I have s uaul it diuppiarrd and I have rto il inubt I sot that my hoy I Clung is I no N wnr ng it tin t-IN A IIISkSK IIKbTAtK I AH we go on with our walk we find hundred ol cuiljus ttore and wr see eryhr evidences that the Chinese appetite Is I Gargantuan and that the might Chinese stomach take much to nil it there ate stores which sell nolh log but lowl and dried ducks I cse AIII I chIcken hang from line I ktreiihtd across the front of the store to thit they make a Ned shilling it oil from Ilia udewalk 1 I lucre arc butcher hugs where pork at d mutton ire orlered all and I Hire are little bouths in winch there are great vats ol water Oiled with live link We stop and watch than liar peddler sane A poor customer A thl n J = sin illloo eJ woman dressed In a long blue cotton gown wane a pound ol iIU nsli and the uI piddUr pull 4 large lull mini flab out ol the waler and l sit s-it on the counter He take i long knife which inns sharp 0s a rarer and cut a lIce out of IU quivering tide I flue Must tows and he tnowo the rto I melss of the now hUh fish into blue I wxtir hoping thai It in D Ue until another I an-other I customer comes along to buy the I ilance Here Is I a Clunise testaiirant Iet t as go In and buy and get a bite to stay i nur ttumachs winch th I me been turned oer oust over by the ilisgustlng I light of our nip It lonsuu of f a doien room sqiaraltd by screen of carver Chinese Irelwork on the pack of which while paper Is pastel Each room is i fitted with leak wood tables which look like ebony and which are about lour Ivet sipiare There are ihnifs beside them mil we take our seats while the homy servant brines in cup of tea with the saucer turned user their top lo I keep in the aroma We Ilk oil the saucers and tilt them so they act AIr tlralnen hum the cup asst touching I list I r t tea ami Keeping I the I leases bad at wed we-d Ink We an next erved with 11 nap lilted with little bits ol lurk awl ih 11 with the New Mulch is thiek wi uh culm IIh of chicken about the sine of n KI pick than out wall call woodrn chopsticks nn I lit I ti s rufi 1 uiih n spoon 1 lake out m > 1lIcll and begin to sketch A cnnsd I gathers ibout me and the Chinese waiter t whose mel I have taken Ik sheepish and mad I ask at lo the prices and mind that I am paying twentyone cash or about ones one-s per dish I cm get s pipe of tobacco to-bacco for three cash or one suth of a unl and a good handful of watermelon eeds far fourteen rash 111I I surprise to iu how many people eat 1 such teed I hey arc the pranut ol china and they ore nerved at etery Ihiater between 1 the ail All classes eat them and nearly evrrv Chinaman hat I them somewhere I a out hit clothe There aic tea salt ons IOU I c f f in cnay Chinese street aid you cat r t your cup of ta and your watinnei needs ao rhere there art ittiurini > ol nil classes Irom eh so which ml d lu nll and citi lleih ind whlih you j hind In the slums tj othcH I where your you-r in 1 iav fs and upward tar a stood dm ter i lit Chinese are giixl conk and I i has A number of lanly 1 nod meal In thus conimoii t raslauranU The chlel I viand were lulled chicken I and rice roast yolk and roast duck ami If 1 any I Under dogs cat or rats were palmed olf upon mu I did not know It 011 Rgibmitre host ov rllg I IIOculllln I looked In vain lo any tlgnl of baking 1 I bak-ing und the Cumete have no such thing u baked bread They boil their dough and you can gel boiled biscuits almost i any when they are gieat on riiig dough i In grease yAje China may I be called the land ol the doughnut It is the general opinion that the Chinoi I live almost Entirely upon rice Tins it t kIY a great mistake IwCce expensive I everywhere and the people of the north are IIKII poor local It They I use millet seed and sorghum teed which are ground up I like tie grind wheat Rice is the stead U south China und poik U the chief men all over the empire 1 he average Chme hog is I the dirtiest am anal in the wotld II gels its living olf I of the lout edits ol the citii ilreeit I and the biggest ol the Chinese clli I permit Ilia pics lo run wild wllhln then 1tife IoWti There are tduitreiit tU grade of pork In China M there are In America and the lineal Kind ol yolk come Iran an Island I south of Hong Kong The plgt here are fed upon chestnuts Tley are shlpnil to all ports of China and they bring I high price The belle clati of Chlneie will I n t bush rats and dog me usually l e I lIt bv the ItI lu do Chi nest IIIllyo a medicine Sucking pigs wen a part ol each big least but tlty tr 1b V Ih fI are brought on the trade cut up into little cubes so that they tan be eaten with cholllrlck I OHM9 All SNAKB rOil POOH The Cnlnese ar < fond of tome kind I of worms amt 1 them Is I H greenish bro a worm which conies from the rice fie I which bring hig i mien In the marker They eat silk worm grubs AIII I In I sxinc IMrti of the impiri iiiu poorer peopi vat sn Las r In I 1 nnlY alii StUN I snakt a a oil f r has tan I they are sued > mane soup They are tile expensive ex-pensive mil a goodttt make ol the right tsnely will bring tevenlv five cent Ilu I mil I the Chinese rttlaurantt well patrond and there are eddhng cooks everywhere 1 the average laborer labor-er buys has I lunch where he work II he belong to the clllei and hrrever there It I a band ol workmen you find from ono to a doien lunch peddler It Is I the tame i to smoking On neatly 1 every corner you tend II table with n lot ol pines upon It and a man standing be I ride It ready to lent them out lor a fraction frac-tion ol i cent a smoke The pipe arc made of copper and they ale u tort of a water pipe with which h1I draw lIe smoke through the uattb lore llcxmei Into your mouth 1ltJ low hois about a ti in ulvful ol tobacco nd the tipe 1 hat 11 he lltnted about every two mum cJ UI Isyeoln I i he I CnlneM ol I a LCA pu ti have taken to tmuUIng < < < igarilliii and you End I great iuiiilluj u nan iliauttu continued In initial lust C mion 1110 Mill riLTII In my wiius trough the Climate illie the things that Imprewcd me limt wru tin thing that f did I slot sue 1 looked In vain for street lumps I here Hat no tiKii of sewerage and the public bulMings wire more like iables than I an thine else 1 the only lire prevent Ivc I were well which hail been dug here and 1 there and which win kept full in order to use in case of conlligra Huns and great clay jar J which were used on the tools wine of the house I was told that the homes were mini bered and at the corners I taw character hers I which gave a docrlplion or census ol the lannllet ol the ghboihood Meat uf theslieiUol the aura whtcu I vested 1 ouuide ol taking I acme tined with stone which ha id been worn smooth by the bare aud shod beer of a thousand thous-and generitions ol huniai beings Outside Out-side of the hog and die dog you tee yew animals In one ol these lug town There I are no urns and no carriages the men rule through the streets in chain and the merchandise Ii I lamed by men or pushed I and dragged through it1Ilw fe dlf rhere tin city In whcelbirrow There are no statues sash no public siuiret except hire and there where a place may Have been loll ion u market 1 here are no telegraph lines and no tall building Ihe roofs am of navy black tile and most of the city house are built ol blue brick wllli a hMindatlon ol alone ham no sign ol cellar though under some of the streets there are drain and some have gutters lloth drain and gutters are usually slopped up and they lorm Ihe breeding placet for d cease and had smell The filth ol a Chinese city U I In fact beyond detcrli lion Peking U I worse than a barnyard and the vilest cow yard hi America Is i cleaner than the mud through whlih vou waste in walking ihr ugh Hankow You htve to keep v ur eyes on your feel and the Is no babe lactury m the united States which uiiscs the resell arising I from the jireels on a wet diy litre and li ro uiig the business street or In the wile street just oil of the most thronged part ol lhechy you wme pass great cItlm Uts iplashe1 with the sheet tU ol 1 dltt Tlieie arc public water close They are owned by private tartlet who KO rich by selling the sewerage to Ihe farmers far-mers Volt co on and on I rough sonnet like those I have described until you can slsnil It no longer And give our guide directions lo huiry > cu back to Jour hotel Cf I t |