Show t f it i 1 I s t I A fl t. t 1 r. r 1 t a. a j r t t r j ir a J i j l f y rf 0 x r t 1 I Iy t fr ti T t r M M 5 f r 1 1 q ayr tIt w sp tYr J a ar n ry ld r r 3 f N c r t Sj t r 4 11 r i G N y 3 t l d i 4 4 q rk r K s ra n 3 4 r y r P l r CaY ar a i t a f C 1 S G fr a Y y K y J 7 z f 1 k ri M r R er a b L r r w s y a i r A R a at K t 4 r a. a Jr x r rK rr 7 J. J kp r 9 L tk r r I ri r v r Y Yr r a C s S rp f g 0 Y y J r r Y g iC y 4 t v r. r h 14 1 I T J r r 3 4 1 r k r a f fM q M l 2 s f r I e r I St a aa a E g y re s Violet in-Violet Fabric e c cf f 4 I Y W J Ji 0 i f r f J M f Voile Void et i iri Z is r I A 4 1 r i Ad Adaptation of the a. a nnie i fM I Ik k y Smart Costumes s As Important As Clever Play Play- Shirtwaists Play Shirtwaists How j The Tabooed The Hat a The Feature T e Comfortable ble Bridge The Sleeve The Sensational Pantaloon Gown v t OW that Peary and Cook Cool have bare in c located lo Ill c Gated hd the tho Pole ol there thelO Is 18 no tolling telling fl noW ho how liow oon Fonn the the l tidy Indy dy will willbe willlie lie he g bridge there for Cor the tl of ot the game seem litem to tov v prevail wh wherever civilization IA In es es- hll bed V The bridge frock has has' come to be bo n nine aloe i quo quit the feminine wardrobe EvenIn Even In n Puritanical New ew eT England 1 berG a n decollate evening bodice would not be tolerated there f re are ure ure bridge e clubs and parties which require special ear sar- f 1 I tonal pr preparation Uon and Indeed a good Domine has hair l I been co said eald to protest that 1 Indie ladles ladles' missionary meetings II ao o long Ions the accepted outlet for feminine craving ug for social dol brave have a formidable rival tal In the village bridge bride club dub And I the bo bridge as ZIS well wen an ILA being belm an no opportunity for tor extra utra pretty Netty s things is a 8 serious problem We W dont don't pill play for tor money at nt our clubs i one little wo woman trie n 8 asserts nod and the prizes only cot cost UH UN a n qUArter apiece cc but hut m my bridge dresses take all ill m my clothes allowance I 1 belong to two to club and fiDd as lIS we wc haTe hart meetings e each week a good flood many different dres dresses are c s Fortunately lo these however very pretty ft fj fl for these afternoon a afternoon festivities may be tIC built without great n expense Daintiness aud and grace groce c count for tor much In In such costumes and there are many details of trimming which may mOT be worked out at at home bome t n HOIT the Dressmakers Dressmaker's Dill Bill May Bo no Lightened t Many are very v r ry obliging and after planning and cutting out tile the costume will frill give rive certain sections back to the customer t to tp bo boo embroidered or nr braided by hand thus making possible Ibl a considerable 80 of ot expense The long IOD nL frocks with 1 braided braid braid- e ed cuirass bodice will bo be much u used 1 this winter and two t vo of ot th these thero c gowns are arc shown one ODe a a. cassock 1 model giving very long loog lines but 11 becoming only to the slenderest lien slen derest of ot figures the other a n dainty frock by hS who was the originator of these thelle tong JonI bodices s. s This Ebb violet Iolet I Is built of fabric tie fabric tio e silky mixture of or wonted 1 and mohair J threads which is U used for costumes of ot this dressy character The Th bodice shows S J a R panel rumel arrangement and and braiding s c color tb the little yo yoke roke Le and collar being belol also l braided to to mated match The simplicity and aud grace race of this little frock are its greatest charm though the Ihn soft ott coloring and nd silky fabric give Iye it tt great ent richness s The file co COtt cos tume 1 Is b completed by b- a n violet Iolet I leaver nr tur- tur hili ha for for for-be b jit It t not noted the noted the hat Is Is' always RT retained ed At formal bridge gatherings nod abd Is 11 is an an- Important tu feature tura of the costume Tills of Qt course Oun menus a n eu try of or r plo plc- la ue IJ headgear Adear in addition to n J it nuin- nuin um v. v tier of of more or QI Jess leu s e elaborate bora t tr frocks ks to so the the bridge devotee ot e e not equipped with a full full fall pocketbook has 1101 a rather discouraging proposition to face Under the Topcoat frock Frocks Are Worn Tb The friendly shirtwaist it is out of the J question for hedge wes wear In communities where smart dropping dressing dr I is the rule At informal in formal bridge after afternoon Doona in 10 the smaller towns town pretty la lace lac chiffon or even enn silk I t r blou blouses are often otten worn oro with the tailored i suit the coat of col course rn bring left In inthe the c room dressing but bridge meetings In town u apt l to bo be more ceremonious x affairs and aud very often costly QUIT and borato bo- bo ra rate rato tc costumes lire are in tn evidence and the woman who attends In tn o ft a u waist however howe d dressy J In character r will 1 willo bo o very nry much much- out of Jt it a as al us ns n. costume is U concerned nn Tbd 10 long J warm warm topcoat covering the frock hoC frock l eath from collar to hem helU makes u It possible to wear very CI dainty costumes to to the bo bridge club lub even enn r n It on one don does not Dot notown own owns owns' m lid ILd td has n not t. t A I t taxicab always alway within call b a s however t r. r never approach I the hl e evening toilette in fn character Laces Inces chiffons and lingerie st stuffs aro are worn only b by the bos hostess tess or of of the occasion j rill r th other r women attending in to tailored cloth gowns gons or piece one e frocks of light f silk and nd wool fabrics or fabrics or or the silky peru i mohair mohair mo mo- hair boll which Is as soft oft I and nd lustrous a as aI crepe de chIne chioe Foulard AVI Will In 11 Be De Worn orn All Winter French dressmakers are BrO making up foulard silks into d delightful little bridge frocks to be worn under these long loog top top- coats co Tho The new brocaded foulards with wo en wo woven en patterns strewn among 1 ong the sprinkled sprin- sprin kled dots are rich enough to serve as M formal winter fabrics Cashmere Cl de sole iOIA is lt n 0 silk Bm and ond wool stuff ideal for bridge dresses for tor this f fabric drapes most gracefully gracefully grace rull fully and nd lends Itself to dainty Ter very delightfully I A little cn cashmere de sole Fole bridge cos- cos os- os tame in amethyst color with novel trimming trim ming of flowered ribbon li le included In lu tod today's ys y's photographs This charming frock by Maker of ot Paris Illustrates Illustrate the new pannier drapery Tho The bodice also elan n with an ao upper section n built ln tn ono with the sleeve e and n Ii drapery drawn across th tho bust is n authoritatively new Tho The ribbon trimming Is so pretty prett and so simple that tho the idea Is ts sure to be copied widely Dresden ribbon on in to blended tunes tones of gray violet and r rose e is' is cut out along the flowers flowers flow flow- owen ow- ow ers en and nod stitched down on violet velvet elvet This trimming bond baud w weights l down the I light ht cashmere nod and makes makes' the tho overskirt ban hang bang gracefully full over the hips hIls where tho the material tt has ban been dropped several inches nt at the tho pelt belt to give II n a sloping effect belov below be be- low lov tho the knee The IM velvet hem bem at the bottom of ot the skirt I is another very cry modish Pt Parish Uh nolion notion notion no no- tion lion most of tho the Imported co costumes tume showing this border of ot contrasting material ma tonal tt at the foot Yoke and und cuffs on 00 this pretty frock ore are of tine fine point dAlencon dAlen con laid over OTer white chiffon and there ther I ha h 1 a do double able lace Inco cuff curt one section being belog quito quite separate sf from the other The lower cuff cult may maT bo be removed to leave what Is 15 known mown ns as n bridge sleeve in ln comfortable three quarter length Sectional l Sleeves th the Rale Ruic French women have e 13 refused to to adopt the very ery long sleeve for house bouse frocks r or or Indeed for anything except pt the tho most formal ronnal calling cl c costumes es for the tr street t. t Bridge players appreciate te a II shortened sleeve e with no dangling trimmings at at atthe atthe the wrist and ond it 1 J. J Fm probable that most frocks of ot this his character will Till have haTe three three- quarter or quarter or at most s seven eighths sleeve lJ leaving the wrist free tree Couturiers have bue lI been n making a great g effort to break brenk up the iOD long close close Ung sleeve o Into sections Dr Drecoll oll especially Insisting on ou overlapping overlap overlap- ping act rind puffs So Some mo of the prettiest pret that f frocks ks from frow I French dressmakers show the upper sleeve alene built in one with tb the bodle bodice H R sleeve alene of chiffon and very Ubi likely another Under that of lace bee being added Each of ot these sleeve Ilene layers L U Ie separate from the other oa the tho well built Paris frock frocks the foundation r or upper portion of each layer Ter being of chiffon or thin liberty silt silk so that a Ii clumsy ly or thick effect is fa avoided A Superb Bridge t Costume by bJ DrecolL Before D actual cold coid weather r makes the heavy hears topcoat and long fur coat oat actual i necessities cent an oj frock suits snits ar are be be- belog tn log ing worn oro to afternoon functions and effective co will very nry likely worn wore all aU winter by wom women n who have baTe carriages carriage DC or limousines At nt their command rb the Tho handsome gown lown matched by lIy n II cost coat Is la of a a rather expensive nhe item of ot the tb R wardrobe rd row for such ucb n II costume tume U ts not IDt Interchangeable r with and with lu its accompanying hat bat represents a sub lab substantial substantial sum of money mony Fur women OMen who I can afford them however tb these rich co costumes cot cos tum are re very desirable for brt bridge ct wear tar especially If It o one be going oloe on on as a the f English say T to a n tea tM afterward A coat cont and gown Iown combination bi lib shows OWl the revived use une of or T velvet this fabric fabric fab fab- ric being once more in high favor for tor costumes of or great elegance The new velvets selects are extremely ly soft and supple and amI the tile colorings are wonderful some pome of the tbt deep or or grape harvest hAr tones tone and the r rich ch greens and lind beautiful marine marine ma mn rin rine and annunciation blues being artistic I in hi the tho extreme In Drecoll's creation the velvet el is combined with voile Tolle ninon an nn open mesh fabric heavier than mar mar- yet t loft oft as 81 chiffon Drecoll's t costume Includes n a velvet coat In the belted Russian style and a a trailing frock the the frock being shown on today's page pogo The sumptuous character of or this costume costume cos cos- tume Is apparent even enn In the tho photographic photo photo- graphic i reproduction Over a tunic of tucked pin voile Tolle in wine red sets a little bolero of wine red satin nUD braided b with black Below the tho tunic Isa is 18 isa a flounce of ofIne wine Ine reI red velvet et voile Toll and velvet elt el t being Joined by a shaped border of of black silk The bodice of the be he tunic is laid over OTer white chiffon t r-t real al lace forming the shallow yoke roke and edging the lon Ions sleeves es bridge Frock Frocks In Walking The French fad fod for short hort skirts has Influenced even dressy costumes and the majority of the oue piece one afternoon frocks this wInter whiter will escape the floor by AnInch an anInch aninch inch or or so so walking skirts being frankly built to show the ankles lI Callot had 1 Cb who vho delight In youthful effects have brought out severs of th these short short- skirted frocks for afternoon bridge use sc J r d da a r y s 0 1 f. f r e t tp p Y onLY d Ti are the CassocK t the skirt under a along long tunic tunic bodice belag being be be- log lag usually ly kilted or trimmed in some border fashion fashion Is' Is making S' S mai ing stunning little afternoon afternoon after after- noon frocks of ot colored 1 wool ol serge er e with knee length len tunics tunica or smocks of ot fon fan This veiling of ot worsted stuff with chiffon seems poems seems an odd idea ides but it is III extremely ex ex- extremely chic as well wen as M extremely as ns the French women say any A Abridge Abridge bridge f frock k of ot annunciation blue serge had bad one of these chiffon smocks In 10 black blacki a aC line Ilse of ot tiny Jet muttons buttons r reaching from shoulder to knee on on the smock smock and the waist being belted with h b girdle of or dull sliver and Jet sections The hat but was n 0 gray blue beaver er trimmed with a D band of ot annunciation blue velvet and black ostrich tips There Is n a perfect craze crue In Paris Parts Just now for tor this annunciation I Iman color combined with black and unlike man many color fads Indulged in by volatile Paris this one oDe Is almost universally becoming be lie becoming coming the deep beautiful annunciation blue bine suiting almost inmost every ery type JJ e In a 11 Bifurcated Skirt 1 v The pantaloon gown I Is an nn afternoon costume which combines richness with eccentricity Whether the fair tall devotees of bridge will play a stronger game clad cladIn In such smith masculine garb b Is as nil yet a R question At first JI glance La IR does not reveal re Itself to be anything more mort than a very graceful s and correctly tailored tel tai lord bored costume of broadcloth with a trailing trailing trail trail- In ing skirt Rna ana a n gay gaT little long tailed long coat attractively braided and aD opening over oer a pointed waistcoat girdle In Louis Louts XV style etyle But nut this pantaloon on gown 1 In really distinctly mannish I for from the knee I down the skirt is In two O sections each limb being garbed in Ind Independent t J masculine masculine line manner and nt lit every st step I of ot the we wearer the heavy henTY train pulls pulla the skirt material backward I leaving no doubt lu 10 the beholders beholder's mind as nil to the tho bifurcated of the garment The con contee too Is lined hued with 1 satin RI ari ad is also tb the skirt ns as far as ns the tho knee lenee If It one could stand stRod still BUll in the pantaloon gown it would really renly be a most charming and graceful costume but Lut it Is not likely to be adopted by women who avoid old A sensational effects in dress The pantaloon gown Is also 9 1 as as may V well he be imagined particularly imagined particularly hard to hold up upon upon upon on a muddy day anti and may only be In Ill Indulged In by br the 1 who may ride In her carriage Light Colors Color If It n Heavy T a.-T Materials Material h White costumes costumeR ma mar be worn oro to after afler- noon bridge parties provided the fabric chosen choRen Is III heavy enough ll to proclaim the costume distinctly not Dot a ahouse house frock Palo blue blu violet and ancI pink satin cich costumes in tailored 1 style tle with or without without with with- out long dressy coats cots to match are In In- eluded In many trousseaux as bride bridge frocks rocks The lI light ht cloth costumes s tt iri irit rj t cut on faultless lines a and d a are e. e w lI trimmed with lace and ond r b braiding 1 11 OJ the doyenne or loog long td style being used d rather than the L it effects which bleb demand dainty bodices aid 4 somewhat bouffant draped skirts A Snow White Jersey Jeney Drua Dray At an nn afternoon Mt moon bridge lob club the other day a young oun matron wore or a Ii charming Jersey frock nil all white and exceedingly girlish and dainty in style stIle Tim The lon Ion long cuirass culruss bodice WAS WIS of ot Italian exquisite woven fabric of which m brol |