Show r The Thc n n INDUSTRY I t 1 Factory Districts in Hali Maa factoring Cities Af Are Ae A Spreading Out SWEAT SHOPS ARE J BEING Loft Buildings SP cie l Designed Are Arc C Into Wide Wid Favor or By FREDERIO J. J flAIN I The famous lexicographer who rho dd cUr that there w ere v r three thre oUr oUr- kinds kind cf ot f jf ile J u Ufa da damn mn lIe lle and mU muju ll ht e tt struggling with something that set ra 3 Ing Ins too rapidly to be counted statistic of ft the won nl n r. r InrI Industry would b b. te c ih t ti t definition Our decennIal c i Jj If too slow to toke keep P PR pl pace wiit in art IM lt thai hot h i i i X ew York Yol alone atone rl II it I. I I I mIke h e test 11 1 I Th n- n niA nt I I nn f nr I tuo J 1 tn ulf III hig In Vw ceu II I Irk EiL J If wn sit's cr OJ II O Nl J h to in i a r cat t-Al g j tI Mi of r soil tip O I Ih h th l I I. I 14 no so wll wide l Jc ari ip ll III I hl r lr aie r tun II t. t i iI AIn I n J- J r IJ II HI IJ t fI 1 tI factor nJ tl In Ins mx JI l c ath jo jL J u rl re u U L-U 0 o i only h within ti thi 1341 d' d els I A thu thit- and cU si iH s 4 tN 14 IM- IM IMin in to t iho ho cloth If cp r n t wOm jq I is i I 14 tf ci t nj t m n e ira ira-f. l J iJ mi ai iu fl-iu i the tV 1 1 se U e Hot Ut nil nn f t ur o OUT Our In heIl 11 I JM JH but bra nt Il Jb tb r o n 1 I d U kl y St i th UI rt no not mot t th vc nid 1 1 tin rU o u t N IC e ot r ronn onn aona I w y fit mek gowns on J tI tweet Q tin 11 1 J I nil i II HI 1111 ro trun il if Hi 11 br Lh l 1 r r a and Jill U Ita t ini n nt t. t tI n 11 i th-n th f. f house II nt lIP I t l l Pit U be 11 t nil ne th 1 lInning c ti UIo J n Jt Hn pr pr t fOr n H notice I t e t VU th lt hr Ri rj I I r n aJ r r too o nt In iii t He n 00 ail ami and r mad u ii er il Montague QI Glass Class 3 In Potash and an P perta Pd I I ter ter teru J At r the sweat IW tt shop renI l prem o cut fabric url and It out oot h Into o the to 10 be sa Th The so IiO 3 s at as Nj Yo Ji lie J cernei had Its on n. n the T TIt side It may ma be J p r that New cw York lorle was as rot the timers was vas the tho birthplace of or the 1 made mens men's and jl Clevela-jl cf or factory made x omens omen P th these e cities s retain rE a 11 prominent nt lOtti In the industries which the thie they or but of ot course toda today New ew York ra ranks Loft Factories Established k kA A decade ago the the- tr transition fr S sweat t shop hop tp the loft lott factory factor In York had become well marked The Thew ment gained momentum The Indi grew with rapidity Loft b bi 11 Ings on lower Broadway began gan to tot turned Into factories hegan n to erect buildings s cJ Uy e signed for manufacturing women's sri Such buildings multiplied d at a I rate The territory adjacent to U square Quare first succumbed then M Mill square and now no the lofts lorts are even north of Herald square Th The ret rell district was driven Inexorably to 31 northward n and nd while th the manufacture were building up to the westward Broadway and Fifth avenue avenue the fl fi W trade and piece picco goods houses house pushes nor non ward along Fourth avenue an old street of ot three story houses lor a canyon canon of skyscrapers A tremendous area arca Is la now I el given ln l O t almost entirely to loft buildings It Itt It'd tends from about Fifteenth street tre t 1 Thirty second street between Fou b II Seventh avenues a The coat and ana SU ul waist dress and costume manufacture formerly In lower New NcY eV York and andon on the ea east t side arc are now located c CM hi t frO fr Seventh avenues avenue bet between een Fifth and Fifteenth to Thirtieth street street- The 8 i center has lias been wen moved to Fourth av a lIt The sky line Une of th till the city shows t change c. c but properly to aPP cat 1 one ohe must attempt to walk alk along to 10 1 avenue from r Twentieth street eeL to 10 1 avenue from r Twentieth street eeL lunch hour son lion Square at the used tA 4 words attempt to walk are for tor passage along the sidewalks at this time Um Is almost ble Thousands s and thousands or of of P taking their noon oon 5 ment workers nr are solid soUd m mu Ing the sidewalks are a curb I cur that overflows the humanity 0 sometimes blocks the street traffic 1 Streets J Workers Throng I congestion hu has become me This street 5 The Th Fifth serious problem very Owners Owners' association l lup 11 tat itt Property a t and U department up with tho the police of ot how ho- hoto w to I office the question mayors mayor's loft lort workers worker Ing low Jow space the factory and walking watkin and room and ana y t I avoid old such crowding that Js IS Fifth avenue of or retail districts 1 a between J- J 1 practically impossible Retail merchants already nigh deserted Fifth avenue from streets en en n to Twenty third strata merch and ana nw account Property owners ra 01 ot of the w aro are now c. c exercised because from growth groth of ot this congestion street on sixth to Broadway and Fifth nUh avenue In t This loft community Is Inh peC mullen half halt daytime by nearly nearl a CO deserted At it Is la absolutelY night th for tor tho watchman The Pl designed for tor their c especial P t selveS o overt Improvement are aro a 11 great factories factories' and sweat shops east cast side The aV ir lug on the lower e o of frontage loft building has hu a tb 0 of depth forty to feet teet and a a. feet The average m ul floor of ot such a ih ono one though the Ja larges ones have bV IW IWand lOftS or and even four tour floors elevator the by tho the loft lort is gained the front of ot the Uie building are are S on th th ibO possible side wherever sample tn the e 0 e rooms the j 10 on WOMEN'S WEAR INDUSTRY IN INCREASING Continued from page pac 4 4 d. I the th stockrooms Back Dack ot or the lie thin partitions partitions par par- l dl dividing ln thc these e rooms Is Js tho the factory fac- fac tor tory usually occupying Oc a space 50 feet wide and feet feel long Jon here Bele Is the designers designer's designers de de- signers signer's throne room hero here a are ra the cutters cutters' cutters cutters' cutters cutters' cut cut- tables and hero heie the whirring eke eke- dm driven riven en machines that are turning flat fabric Into finished garments I By Dr far Car the greater part Bart of or tho the work is done by the factory method that tha t Is suits fire are cut out In hi great t numbers elec- elec driven knives cutting cutting- through h the cloth with a precision Impossible to scissors The cut out garments are arc then sent Bent through a series serles of or machines and andare aTC are handled b by operators each operator pe tor doing but one little part of the work un Wage Conditions Condition Fair 1 In the better gown and costume factories factories factories fac fac- tories this method Is not followed For gowns and costumes that retail at sa say ti anI and more the tho Is cut the the s and findings finding laid out and the whole pile p of oC raw material Is turned cr over to 0 one operator who makes an and finishes t the he lie garment arment Tills This i is necessarily a much more c expensive method a and n can be e employed emIo em em- Io cd only on garments where there thero Is isa a 1 comparatively 1 large laige margin of or profit t. Most of or the manufacturers many of oC the he salesmen and a CT very large majority of the working people are arc II Yews Jews J Wf from Russia and amI th thu Wage conditions Ions in these factories fac- fac tories ai arc an on the whole fat satisfactory It t hns has been only In the cheaper garments garment gar har- ment ments such Uch as aM shirt wal waists lg and 1 11 1 that tint there have hao been cen serious an anIon and long Ion continued labor la or troubles And yet ho fear flar of a strIke Is I ever present and the tho Jewish toni tem this fear far acting upon h has s hall had much to do with wHit and 1 W wages s. s shortening J V ho ho K and aud conditions TIle The garment cr prefers to take c his hll chances on getting gelling urn in Inc Increased price front from J the he he consumer ra rather lather than to shut down his p h by refusing a demand for ht higher lIer wa wages Serially and economically manu mann manufacturing t community in New Now York is In nonce orne WU ways way's K the most moat remarkable industrial indus indus- trial center In the world It Il exhibits the thc modern tendency tow to toward aid eo OP CO-OP operation co-operation I anti and consolidation h bv by congregating ha tin In ono one a area rea But It Is tr still Intensely individual ual- ual IK tic t nince tho the Individual factories are aio neM nearly nearl nil of oC them small concerns The he Themore Themore hemore more prosperous lH constantly endeavor or to increase c c their plant and expand their thelT business thus h tending n toward con consolidation consolida consolida- ollda- ollda tion tl but hut this Is 11 resisted h by bythe bythe the continual multiplication or of Jh r cutter and th the tho designer of a t uc- uc suei t firm are art looking forward to the time tile when they thov r ran rn n rave nc enough n 1 0 to break ic away awn and anil open an nn establishment nt of or their own For JOI this r reason an n e espo- espo p I i f lolI pond wll cutler culler or designer IH la often t n 11 tutu Into the till 11 rm Hut hint hi tits his skill shill attl a IK expertness may h be he anchored In to th the home har harbor or Tho The equality of oC tim seX sexes 8 In buln u l asIs ss as Is r o s-o universally l jilly reco recognized Many hlll of ot the best designer contrary to the tho prevailing pre opinion ar are aie women Not Infrequently a young oung r un marl malt of or cx executive e cuU capacity ap and n a genius for salesmanship al marries a young OlInS woman designer sets up tip a manufacturing establishment and I thence forward It Is a family l am affair I |