Show Discreet Fur Trimming on Coats boats and Hats Noted In New Fall Modes Raccoon Acquires Dignity jy j y t j 1 Y Z it r t S. S 7 U 1 N H R The standing collar and knee banding on the uin model at the left are of raccoon Next is a gray I kasha collar in fox and at the right you see a Lelo Lelong ng importation of beige wool velour with shawl collar and deep cuffs of beaver bever By HENRI BENDEl NEW YORK Unusual NEA-Unusual NEA unusual and discreet uses ot of fur are th the chief characteristics ot of new autumn costumes Furs have not b been en eq EO for tor many a year And I doubt If they eveh have b been n used with more orIginality and ingenuity For the most part the furs that are used to trim dresses or ensembles ensembles bles are the short pliable furs while those used on coats may bo be beany any of the longer hal d variety Fur on hats promise to toba bJ ba popular and fur tur touches here and there on a coat coat-as Inserts pockets belts are seen THREE RULES FOR FURS It If fur tur collars a coat certain new rules apply If It is a soft deep fur fu it may edge a e collar lIar ot of orl original nal cut It If ot of a stauncher fur Cur may faShIon one ot of the new short st collars whose brevity makes them almost square when cut If flat fur is used It Is treated like fabric and a deep shawl collar n. n Jabot collar a a. or other IndIvidual neck treatment is seen Lelon Lelong uses the ever ever-ever favorite favor favor- Ite beaver on a beige woo wool velour coat he shows for Cor fall The collar Is a long shawl one that wIdens perceptibly at the end where It crosses to give an excellent line i to the coat Deep ep cutes cuffs extend j I almost to the elbow leavIng a tIny bandIng of the velour at the lower edge r I have desIgned a a. little litre turban ot of summer ermIne dyed de brown as the l beaver taver for wear with this coat Its sole trImming Is a felt band I that flares to moer width on the I rIght sIde chooses delicate fox to I trim a grey kasha coat for tor autumn The fox edges the kasha collar in such a way as to make a a. charmIng frame for fOI the face i This coat Is cut o 0 straIght lines lints I but with that more fullness fullness full full- ness that women demand nd now There Is grace race and beauty In the sImplicity ot of Its lines Unes And using fox tox only to edge the collar marks It as a rare thIng desirable With this coat I advocate ocate a a. little little lit lit- tle fur turban that will carry out the color scheme Two shades ot of grey wind into a swathed turban ot of rich chic With a collar that stands as high In the back as this one does only onh a tight fitting hat is Ia suitable The turban that borrows a bit of Its swank from the beret Is an admirable choice RACCOON GOES FORMAL I This winter we will see many furs used as decoration that formerly for for- forI I merly fashioned sports coats Sus- Sus and raccoon are two examples uses raccoon successfully on a 3 modish tawny tan velour coat for afternoon wear weal The raccoon fashions the double standing collar and bands the coat with a a. eight eight- Inch furry strIp that follows the uneven uneven un- un even lengths ot of this coat whIch in back and rises slightly In front Self banding Is in trIangle fashion from the cuffs to the elbow ot of the tho sleeves and similar bandIng simulates pleats down the back ot of the coat Many winter coats enrich theIr beauty In this or lr similar ways For most ot of the theco co coats ts give the appearance of elegant elegant ele- ele gant simplicity but In reality are luxurious and extravagantly fash- fash |