| Show OUR CUBAN LETTER 1 In Cubas Capital with a Camera A Last LooK at itc f Graves of Our Men of trjo Ma I10S0TTe > I Spanish Characteristics Special Correspondence Wellington April J2lh IMS Tho laot thhiB I IUd before loatlnt lUtiana osto so out to the Ccmen urlo < 1 Crl tovnt Colon to photograph photo-graph the graes ot our men of the Main for the Bike of their friends nt hom It 0 0 faulllei ummr morning cooled nnd sweetened by irodewlnJs nattlnB the odor of flow on thelrvrtnm such weather 00 ouli 1 make a paradise of Cul without thel < < dffodtul condltlono of war The Cementarlo lies nbout threo miles from the heart of the city You may eo by horse car as far ns the suburb I jwus del Monte and thence to the HitBOt Ihe enclosure In n tencent bus I or you may talte n carrlaire nt the t rate of IUO the hour Habanns 8 000 or more public carriages earn you from iHiInt to point anywhere within I the city limit for 20 cents each way but they make up for that chHipneis by charging five times n much If they cross the line of demarkatlon Into the uburl 11 0 mueh 00 a qunrter of a mile The student of human nature pets a good denl more out of the trip In the democratic horse car but 00 time was an object on our last day In Cuba we chow the quicker transit of the carriage The drive Is I a beautiful beauti-ful one past city parks and plazas abloom with rose tin great market house with lt facing of portales or cohered arches under each arch a regular reg-ular curio store of n shop throush Interminable In-terminable narrow street built closely close-ly up with low notroofed building painted skyblue urple rooeplnk lOlITeen all wlih Ir nbarred window win-dow s I1e retU troden < placard thell rnflnlteMl stocks with highsound Ing tltIesuch as the shoe shop of La mena do las Flores The queen of the lowers the grocery of the Ioes ol Venui the old tlothei demur ot His Gracious Majesty Alphonso VII etc Habana has been correctly described des-cribed as a city of smells and noises It Is o relief hen the eyerloallng racket of tin cobble otone I exchanged ex-changed for the smooth roll of wheeli thoUgh tho over 0 maeodllmlzed road latierli I deep In dust and tthlte as snow In a Blarlnu sunshine Down the middle of the rftad statut stand ot frequent Intenals old marhl le IlKures quaint and weotherstnln Dusty trees line the way bneath them on cither nlde a little stream vurles along pebbly ditch nnd the fields are hedged wllh orgnn enctu Ita pipe wered with BUnclns sllineo growing close together higher than a man Mad forming n barrler which no living liv-ing thing can puss Th pnernor generals couniry ploc 10 cloo to the rill limit on the cemetery rood It II I a magnlneent state with lowrlng plm a Udernso uf Ilowe nnd x lnl park In which tho choicest I vecetatlon of the tropics flourish to ptrfectlon The mansion large low unlttpalnted and surrounded bylJ lat J Ud rndaremolns closed In the troublou tlm but former Ih rum ru-m of Cub pent most of Iho eor h I goe frequent receptions uhlcli were attended by the flower ot llabana society It Is paid that theo the-o Iron paling which surrounds these grounds was stolen from the municipality by a former governor gov-ernor general It enclosed the central plaza lth Its score of entrances nnd the good proplo were > riy proud of It Hut nil excellency needed a new fence for his country place and preferred to econo mlie the money In the treasury for other private I uses So one night after dark the transfer wins made bi a company I com-pany of gnldlers and net morning the astonished citizens could Irardly be IICMJ their CJCB at sight of the denuded Adjoining this place Is I the botanical garden with a wonderful avenue of rool Olm eeon1 only to tlro t of iUode Janeiro In llrazll A little farther far-ther on Is the qulnta Garden of the hulne men clubn onestory ram bllng redtlled building surrounded by shrubbery Members of this club who keell up Ihlr dU of 11 Iollar a mouth can M out to this place at any Um for n few days rent and recuperation recuper-ation of for mirelng when actually 111 Another Interesting Institution on this road I the rulreat of a Csihollo slater hood correspondlnr to the order known In the United Stale II The Llttl Rio tr ot Ih Ioor The valuoble Btat 11lh It nne old mnnlon iet far hack from the highway lu > hlmt green Melds are royal > 1 rmtms was bequeathed to the order many ears ago by n wealth CuUn lady and Uie Little I SUtcrs I now ery aged womuCare jogging toward sunset In peawful retirement Hustle tlendas are scattered along the way through whose open doors whitedraped tables are seen and the clinking ot glasses Indicate that the retrohmnt I mOBtly In liquid torm Honlc1I oro eontontly met omethn In < < I metlme lundem half a doz eh In line hauling a heii y load nl a irorderfullv T > nrliwned with n o ar f It thmiuitn and harness thickly studded ulth big brass nilla Oxteams are fre qu nt long trains of Ihcm yoked two Rhratlhtr Ior heado how1 olmot to the earth by the load of wood upon the horns held In place by a cruel ibp drawn through the nostrils It makes ones heart ache to wltncw tho treatment ot animals In Cubannd nothing em 10 far won < e thnn oxen the most patient and faithful ot olt ot hurden How their heads mut orh under < ho hen V ok ta rIng r-Ing nil day long lashed and goaded at I eery step Ihoueh pulling the iitmo mince of which they are capable When the days work H done the surTerl ta ti ollel1 without wter and friKlclnrl fed nlv to ke i sireng In them must otlll l rf lain the joke fort for-t It Ia tM much trouhl for Iho nr I 10 take It ort and put It on asaln In the morRln Nfarlng the cemetery w f jwwd a L Oup of horHted bO houtlnrc Mlh haniiy laughter ai they loitered I I Ion the way Lnoklni back at the II hllarlou enmppny f woo oonlshNI to I I In the mldat R llttfo w hlle eomn It 0 a funlI1l M elonl In Ihee rdnli t funerals you know enbUothno npw tct of som mothers bby being eorrt1 to IIJI grave by a lot of Irre ponnllile IKIJS woa to me something t ihocklnc Hurrtlnr back I Halted the laUghing Procoolon onl m3de proto aph of It hlle the hw rh nlv hld up the paper no1 trlhut n < I1t1y anothr proelon 1ao oer ken < l eor or nor of colored men on foot one mljrht sav on baro ootl corrylng on their rhoulderj u full leneth black codln Doubtless they belonged to a certain secret nrinnlza tlon of Cuba composed entirely of re n h dtced I em h are a ways burled according to the rules of J the orde carried I Ito ht grae stg a zlouU ofiirom and Intrr1 < tlh rrtjMnus rites Several wn unal 1hcA nrIlY bv I fOIIoh with It gor hn deked wllh 1lum nd gliding lb hOrB I Nloopled with ilolh ot gold and driver sitting aloft In scarlet coot kneebreeche nll1 cockcd Mt Rlmot a fa Imlle If the ono of our Continental soldiers as shown In the old portraits Anon It was the white chn ieof f1tr 01 horses covered 0 with while nttlnG and sllv < l trav lllgol hUI ohos Iho driver In hi gudY euetume ut curlet and yellow followed h a traIn of corrlo fllled with mn Occasionally Ihe dead cart rumbled by on a smart dogtrot closed black box not uittlke the bakers wagon wllh nolhlnC to IndlcI It gruom p rpose but the cabrtllstlo red letters volnted on the rear The cemetery of chrlsUpher Colum bu a was established about twenty coro ago by conwvlng the one I from nn enclent grove YRrd nllr by It Is an imposing place with thou sand of skipiercing monuments en closed wllhln mo h HlOlle wall topped with on Iron railing The lofty nts 01 the entrance or cloord nnd locked at nightfall but more than once I have nrllted afler the closing hour and found that 11 ollar would unbnr Ihn gates and kOlp the custodian cus-todian waiting nn Indennlte time AIde A-Ide driveway betwiet I ows of pine amI Indian laurel trees run from Ihe ntrauce straight IhrouKh to the dead use ngalnst the fnrth wall Interacted Inter-acted midway by another avenue of < < lual width and crosse nt right angle an-gle by narrow pathwa 1 Exactly Inlaid lh I J e ns t I i n r rl Ice I cover1 lth mRtlM Iah laid flat on Ihe round Ibove the Ione of thou8llml of unelolme1 deod from the old ccmeter > Among Ihe mosl nolahle monument 10 lhat of tho i Uomberoa < flremen > a magnlll ent work uf nrt reted In memory iffourteen EnHant men wholost theli lives In saving others As Inmost Spanish countries the Domeros ot Cuba are a rather swell organization composed of soung men In the best society They arc not nmnrkably till clent In subduing conflagrations erolly taking Ihlng Iclurely ond ridIng rid-Ing 10 I ene uf lIsl < r In thtlr e < 1an rll e r t n tI I I Anothr striking monument Is of pure1 white marble In the form of emple from whose open door the an g1 of Innocence n beautiful IIfelz atlie Is Hying It commcmoiatc n ngedy essentially Spanish In choroe ler lleneath the temple lie the bone of On ounG medlcst tudent be Iween the oSe of flneen and elghten on of wlItodo Cuhon famllle Formerly Ihe Illedlcal college stood near the cenletef nnd the tudnt uoed frequentlY to olk and tudY on der the ho < 1 of It tr One day It is discovered that the tomb of some noted Spanish hud heen dscrotd hy being marked with n lead pencil Threupon great was the Indignation of he bpanlsh government and sallt focllon for outraged honor was de monded It was taken for granted that the mischief was wrought by the medIcal med-Ical students although there was no WilY of proving wh er tho eulllrlt so the whole school WOR put Inlo prloon olld l1noll It woo determined 10 make on exompl of even Iota were cot ond Ihe een Ihuo dsl naled wr 11 out nnd hot Tho grleftrleken pllrenl wtoe or w thus cut on In thomurRlng 0 lIIe lur nn ofTen 3 they had probably not committed com-mitted received universal sjmpathy even from the Spaniards after their honor had been vindicated The boys were burlid In one grave andover and-over them the government cau ed this lostly monumnt to be enctd with Its npproprlnti ombol of the Angel of Innocence 111 IK out of Itl A Iollel ot the generc slty of Spains nternal government WI1S tho gor eou funeral of the murolrOlI mn of the Slain paid for with Spnlh gold The grovo of our allora lie In the newet IInd least populous portion of the cemetery equldlstnnt from thfc aristocratic section of splendid monu inenta and the crowded corner it the I potters Held I f1 1 o desolate compare ofTo our Northern f e o h grnve woul1 recehe from lovln friends could Ihe hoys ha ben burled nt home The 10rG poc ot reddishyellow pri raoll orth t nol marled off Into n ulsr mound no blade of grass grown In It and there I no nltmpt at decoration teond a ew fndcd flo11era lett by American visitors and the hlte woodon ero set up oer poor 1I0lger Ihe lat man ho died In Son Ambrosio Perhaps a line monument may be erected here when peacels restored but how much betler It oe ma In me ould It b to dvot Iha mony which n Ille of chlIINI mnrble would coot loword laking hOlno the rrmalne aftr the time required by Cuban law has expired ex-pired nnd turning them over to thcl friends could the men themselvei have a lolc In the matter they would I not wloh 10 rt IImong th1r mur derers deI hao In mind at tills moment ono of thoso XV ho died In the hospital aftrl several 1101 s of Intense Buffering George Koeblcr of Urookljn a brlgh iung fello It cllu nbl I iokrd UP with BUCh p pride and love on hlo foco when he Mid to m wife In reply to m queo tlon If It wo hi weelhellrt to whom I had hen writing At hlo dlctotton I had rltten word of lov and chr to lsggle and the asuranro Ihal he wouhl ooon i bo ntth hei Poor bOIl I heHe seemld too YOUlIg to b morrlClI and mue1 too oung to dl Aa 1 stood In the cmeteo making men tnlns welll1o 11 mechRnlcal photo rh ot thn cne 11 light wind swepl throu h the near I oenuo of ne wllh the ooun1 of an oeollan harp One Is profoundly Impruoed In thla place nt nil times by the < mule of the pines a perpetual requlum rising nnd tailing wllh the slightest breze I The morning aunshlni wo Bwet with Ihe idoV of lowers The sky archinG nbove seemed w armer nnd bluer than skies at home A mocking bird perched on the arm of n blackpaint ed cross flHed the nlf with melody 11 eem1 tn b oIOlng Ilfe I rhort and etrnll lonl Whal aidatte where Ih wrUlle frome I aid vhen the oul hOB gone oul of II T o CRnnot h oiI Oh O e v r reeoncenlrodo cornor In Ihl cmtry is a vast space ot bare nravel c srgcI Illrr T great grave to which I I frequently i tlltlons are made Two 01 three mn were busily throwing up dirt to mRk room for the days Interments oeen slonally tossing up skulls and marrow bones to which nobody paid the leot attentionthough 1 noticed more than one cranium III hair clllng 10 It R If It 0 nr wero ently ol1on the living Mosl of the Inlermnt In thl oetlon are mde wllhout eonln the bodies brought cm stretchers laid uncovered In the dirt and qulckllmr shoveled over Then I pold a visit to the dead he gra r Iof S o g l Fo and ttTclty hospUaJTn the long 111m room Ith Itl eoneretOlI floor ami Ironbarred wlndo11 without with-out glass In them n row of tol cr rovered with com and wltn eadoOra on tretchero mon the latter wo 1 oldlerhare leg and ormo tlckll1 out and heo1 woUClI In his own dlrlY blankel a fall samvl of the car with which Spain rewort her defenders In a candle box painted paint-ed skyblue but without a cover lay u tiny baby wllh red paier roses In Its hands and hair waiting Its turn ot burial by rude hands In the reconccn Irodos corner A ro of sunllghl hlnlng throuh the window touchd tM bbye holr with a benedlcUon I prend my hon < 1l1erchlef over the Ittle face bat with small hope that he unfeeling gravediggers would pave It there when the clods were thrown over Luckily there nre no lies In feverInfested Cuba Adjoining his chamber uf horrors Is I another plied to the ceiling with quicklime rapidly decreasing supply as the bur 11110 Irogr At the suggestion of the ooxton I entered the can Inge and wa dren to tho remol northOItrn urner of the neloure to II 1lllc which fw ho Ilt thlo cemelery eOr hear 0 It la a lorg quRre 1lt of what depth nobody knows lined to the brim with human lujnes taken fronl Ihe uhl cemetery nnd from hired ginv In the n w one after lhe rental hoo expired The trllcko 0 < hol over crumlI1 Ion show where horse alld cart are driven In over tho hop to deposit froh ads Hundreds of hrokn comno er lIell In UI10 corlle and Ihousond of skUll oom whit W I f them grlnnrd from eery Ide o who oholll > 1 so Thlo I eonrated ground I 1ANNW n WAItD |
