Show r The Capital of Peru A Magnificent City Coritalnlng 100000 People Mode of Mud ard Flohilrg Polos How lima Ilooten aro IlnUtTliry Are Ircproof lint Italu Van Ior ltuuugcl Tlmn tot lKithiiunliotlilekciK lIe on the lloufnA MulU Tbroncl lb ttre Shln tiout the I Jurr r Whlh teal Uk CnreAtt tlIlrsn d nrU ot a Urt 010 CUrUo null nd 111 oluu Stout ltreTtg Wooo mhlo tttnngrotLtto on S OIl Itldo A trlileIIoir Milk 00ltsrst Arc 1ddl1 booth of lbs qnitor Limn Peru April 17 1808 Take t null wIth toe this morlllno through tho qunlntest city of this horn lipherc We aro In llmn the capltnl or Ieru The EtrcctB on which wo ntnnd nero mitt out more than throe hundred years ogn Lima was I 11 city when 1 Itosto won i In ml Its swoIIlinC clothes I hen rhllndclphla waB n bnliy and all of tho wet ond south of It an un I broki nllde rm1 I enn how you limn here blob ore two hundred jcnrs older than ChlcnRo or Clncln I null and I can cnn Introduce you to one of the oldest citizens tho founder ot the tmvn who drlid and pickled by I thin pure Permian air haa for over three centuries stnyed here with his 1 property I refer to the Ppnnlnh freebooter free-booter Indian roljber and butcher Ill nrro who laid out Lima In 153 Ho 005 ontoioutd un the epottlere the president of IVnt now lIves and his ckeJcton and his brains cuikvd up In 1 Iwttlte lire kept In a glam cnse In the cathedral ncions the nay The ohio Is drlnl nnd It sticks to the boms but with the exception of 1 patch whkh lh his Iwen cut off here and there for true hunter the bide Is Intuct though decidedly leathery and worse for the ii A CITY Or MUD ncrythlnp but money list lonff In Mmn Where else In the world Mill > ou Cod n rlty built of mud three bun rtred jenis 011 Lima has more than one hundren thousand people nnd It In hull ot mud 1 Is I about six miles alound It nod two edict front one tide to the other 1 loIs n network of our tots stret which eros one another 01 right nnrleH with space clipped out here and there for parks or plazas Tho houe are all or one or Iwo stucco Hush with the sidewalks and In the Mislntss sections cagelike balconies hang out rrm the orcod riorlen 5 that you are shleldid from the sun iu lou pass through the city Lima loolti wonderful substantial and you would Imagine It to bo made of tnnsUe slone which here nnd tniro wondertully I rot e home or the walls louk like marble others Imltnti granite and the houso ot all the color or the rail huw tin tIe etreetfi like uhUnllal nalli hout the < hlef Inaro titer ore encloed halconle from the econd dory walled nlth glum an1 undc tieno jv what look llki noetive clone pillars rOrnlng nn arcototerciittcr nroun1 two olden or the qulre In Cront of the stores The pillars or mutt Iho polished wnlls of the houi ore made or undrl1 brick rooted wih phuer 01 bun uo1 the eeoll storIes flee a renobination of mutt otd tumbou I cane Think nII a Brent Ilya built of mud and I flshlng polesl That Is I Lima There nro pome ot the finest rhurche here on the continent mAiia nf mud The grout rathedrnJ of Limn which coot millions Inn I mud structure and could you taKen taKe-n rail and shoe It asalnbt one of Its I masMve towers It would go through the wall like n bird case LIMA ruoM TIm nousrTors nut let us pet up on the roof of our hotel and take n birdoeyentecof the t I city before we begin to explore Ir We ore now I nov05 I field of flat roof above which here I and there rise the massive 0 towers r the great church for which Lima Is I noted At the bark of us at tht i lOgo of this Held are the bleak foothills of the Andes gray nod forbidding their lop In a srSky sly nna with white rlnnds niFtilng her and there Vo chicn On the edges or tho rID we ecu the green crop or the volley aMhelllmnc rlur and oe there are the three bridges which rroi the stream as It tows through Limn Look dnnn upon the roofs nil alxm jou They arc more like garden bets than the cow ring of hou aren Don stamp jour feet or walk healy us you moe nbout The roof tremble under irs anti with little effort wo could pooh our feet through The sup IwrLs of many of the roofs arc merely cane polei on whlrb dirt Is I spread On some matting Is I first put nnd then n lot Oer of cnrth stttd 00 ogleu I I suppoe to t ner ruin her nn1 Crom Ieutss rot to Icur en1 Limo has not a hower WnterroC are unknown 001 the ttooitreiiu menders en lineser hearl I I on this account that litres mu1 walB ta1 throughout the teen erIUon ototl tin Indeed through lk o loin that Ilma cobb A big howor oul rcdee the town to a mud hep shlie a two wceks pour woul nip It Olt or ellence 1011 here howOer nature some Ill ore var Irs her rourno Last jcar tho people were horrified by hearing thc raindrop pattering on the roofs The water which Ml would have hardly Win palled a sprinkle In somo ports of the world but It did more damage hero than an earthquake vviirmn inn rincKUNS IJVE ON THI noors Much of the light of the Lima houses cornea from the roofs Knell hou n hotuoroortlnllereolreaodrnoooof the larger buildings are cut up by courts around which the looms run When there Is t a double row of rooms Ihe Inner I ones ore lighted by billie dormers which extend up through tho flat roofs nnd which look like chicken eoop rorn Ir we ore etontbtng It Is difficult In foot 10 tel the dorme from tin chkken There coops Thee or thousands of chickens which lire born lay their eggs and grow fat on the root or Ibis cIty There isulteo I cockling on the opltonitereof now 1 am awakened awak-ened nry nlht Itt Iho c1n or the booster hoe toe and tho noIse f the rorlo nHrln > In Ihe middle or Lima woke me Itnogioeottnrif la a barnu There It on nthmllo old roolr which crwo ott nwalo reg 111 at 5 n m nnd another that sonutlmes makes the air shake al midnight I hae not yet seen non eo n-on the loofi though I am told that I color rnmleB Ituve their slaitlos eu 10 catod the cattle not being taken down > until they are ready for killing Prom such buildings you might think the louseo of Limo would be nlwas tumblng nnnd that the11 cIty rool1 Ite In eonnnt Ianer from Oem Thin Is I not the case The houses ate almost earthquake proof the Inrgei buildings often ImMnfc their first story I walls from four to elx feet thick though those of the second story ar thin These mud walls never take flu The rullr otoy cot up In smoke tot n on as thc roof IB ahlaze II raisIn I rais-In nn1 Iho mod which cover It lots out the lire Ti tore are inticeol bu few loses frotIflrukurgaodnvenoutln i the iuntry away from the fin com panic hoours lke the ore Insured 1 for one holt of 1 per cent Such tbhui r01t bloek nrsluuro lunlng down Is I unknown In LIro < Till STUCK S AND HOUSES I Prom the hotel roof we get some Idea of how 1 compactly I the cIty Is t built nnd we seo more of this durlrg our wall I There nre no giiidenn and very rew back jarda The larger houses aver I a atto deal of space I ns they are colt I lined to nrlgg lone or ri t toot looms Titosotolimr nOrsorottmultyrauos I so small that It Is Mn to imagine they ore loose at all There ate hundreds of little blind oIls which are reached through doors In the walls along the main trI whlih hnvi celllke I omnot over tn fed oquno Cod or the ruoma it I a itotdtoo uM 10 one such alley which I visited today 1 ouo told Ihal thc aergo WM nbolt fight people to each tenement Such houses have back sllds nbout six feet square surrounded hy high walls They have I no windows and the light coir In through the front nnd back door None of the houses I ot Lma have him nejs The most of the cooking Is I dun or chat ati lirt t3Vell the best houHP hand rv soIltdtl 5 on the ha-nd Iloor an1 05 n lOin the tight eme from I Intorl courts or Iho roof Ynlho twostory houses l of the bolter class galleries run around tho courto and lIt 00000trb000 log out Ilto thee ar Vcy I ocioton 1 aIry Ah outaldo windows and doors nrobarred wllh Iron nnd the bitter parts of the city mal loot think ot a long row of lulsoni There nre many tIne hume hlch ore entere1 tirougi Ironbarred gates and the doors going Into t hnt eem 10 3015 1lanl stall lood Into palalal monslon surround Ing I courts niltd wllh tlblorro In the business sections thc people live In the second storIes which are tlivldcol up Into hotmopactmonbs Thlo are many 100 ltd ou and only the rich have large hOI TIC TI-C root d 100 orcetore ald skops open to Ih otreet I The stores have no solo down anil me door run tho full widlh of the slore so that the whole front in l shovod back or taken away durlni business hours The light Is usually from the front though the large ratahllEhmcnls have courts and extend a long Iltance to the rur Many 01 the oknptotenuto 11110 CIC than an > thing else 1 They ore cells separated only by thin walls and a walk along the Mera ore Is more like a Journey Ihroh n mUHeum or an Amercnn department store than along the chlet business street of a city The bum ness Directs nro from SItu 30 feet wide mr oren the former nod the dole w1s ore not One four fern In no Idth Jour people cannot well walk abreast and a party crowds IOU oft the pac rnent A donkey with pannleis took the right of way from me this mornlne and I stepped out Into the ruad to let him go ir LAZY MIN AND PRETTY WOMEN The street moors or Jlma Me In under the Urnting Lctnorloylober arciule which run lout the plaza nod watch the crowds Here are some of tho bet shops of the clip They nre full of fine goods nnd lure between 4 nnit Ino an G nelol evr arernoon the tooplo robe to buy and do < business TItron hou ode the Lyl of the day and the crwd Is I now as thick ns that nt lowr lroh at non 1 In n ra 1 Cercnt crwd hwer No one hur rle T men Iunter alunA orntoott on the otrel end chat wltli thel frIends Wc little knotn or mn cvomy000euoiooltottltmmesengcre the mctohuot soot clerks em to hose lime In1 to pa Nerly event coo Is well dressed Thel are mnny lion 1 hats alHt big gloves and tearly evry tt000oiotaod youtogeorrleoincone They are very pole They bow smile shake hand otI lift their hat stomn they meet nnd hw omle atd tip theIr loots when aoul 10 leave They urn tIle pink or prelon I Cnr as form iroos and Jou would Imnglre them gsn tlmon of Idsuie rolling In wenllh The truth Is most of them are poor leru ha loom plalng a losIng gm with fortune for year and the day of her cnorou roh lout long since gone by I you will look closely you wall e that many a coat is t shiny at the scorn ood that mInt or theIr silk liats are fast Iwlng their nap There ore erhaps i more educed gentlemen here I thnn I In I nny other city of the I waSdThe ChU ns looted tho loounlry n1e ao nnt tok away It as ssss rTenr TK nns bode been losing from thiil iy to I thl h < en ttrnlzlol the hav Tcy and ths rorlln I 1 hUM rro until the people noutootoollr nat In M InU nomlJrtvlI Thy I Ildual nt a business i people an1 I hitlim fallen do not know how to got UI 7hc taln or th imlry Is In o It In I tho hands of forelgnc and I orc are 1101 Iwo big Peruviani buslntMi hu i In this 1eruvlan I rapltnl 1 Th j lung Teruvlnns are clerks I In the it i < nr Ilruvlans he government cOlor whllo Ih foil i 0 ousosOld arm eklpltiog Oio05 I on I herDmalins of their IIJ gtct t t Tiin rnnTTi aini3 or LIMA I ItIwI tsve must not forget whu w amo We ore In one of Itte no 0 teethe I jf Lima r 3n rn Obl o c cf the prettiest l women south or th cqua tor nre going to and fro pn t u I you could drop this street dovn b In an Atnrrteon OttO how our mm mn 5C010 ild stop and open their n How tholr mouths would water is 1kp cnw the luscious lips nil about a 11 how they would drink In tl Iottb l of the Lima girls eyes Tl < i Hnl boollou or Ilmal Thcr are n 011 nnre perfection In beauty of form th m toy girls I hae ever seen 1h y nri tralght nod well rounded ai I their oft round beautiful rae H with their uxurlant black hnlr comlnd high ur from the fonheads ore llghtni up with eyes which fairly shines with the soul or their owner I YOI eOII timoy LImo loon In New ytk the < 101 wou1 thlnl the city had teen tnken hy young osooe Cera I or phlo 55 ho boot Jut gone Into mourn log All of the ladies I or 1Ima olmeso I In black nobel they go out to walk The yionotsccor honnct hut wrlp hoe shawls of black goods nlut tblr bruolsptooobegtloorn i fast on their backs no that the faco nlon hWB Tin background adds to their benuty mid the cotumo on the whole Is a good lone 1 sncs the bujlng of new hats nnd honnt nnd Is I easy to put on or off Man n seedy waist ont frowsy hcad nre I dour not hidden under those block shnwl aI Itoonocorecs nreeescr bothe d by the quoUon which ooe oC our girls aked her moll r wlrn prolrlno for otmsnnleg Cunellon callng oter the bnler Mi hal I oosh for I high I om low neck dros The Poiuv Wom n eds to wash only her race for the 5 reels for Otto I c st of bet peron to I hld enOsaro lie I am old oie orel dlpen nlth lhln hr mce for In leru Ihey soy lat cold watr brings feers and that frequent bnth Ing la I productlxe of nil kind or 1 cases MIre Is much powder ue1 nl Ilma tau 05 Iany perfumery shops ns tn tcttlnftlsOlss In the world 10lh mn ond omen ore ron or wt mel uod 0 tram loot hole lme they go about with squirt guns and atomizer with which they drench I their fellows of the opposlt 500 The glr throw powde upon the boys I anti ben nn1 women i lal wnter Into In-to each others fncei RomcUm itch owd of Lima belle Sm I i-tch hold or one or tho heaux and nu him In a bath tub full or i water I mH sterdny a young man nsloo wa rof Ceril lh fever on accoull tofu coil Oobtet troln euch a ducldng not long ago THEY GO TO CIItlUCH ThnLtmawomrn arc snrydevout Iery other one weN meet ourrko a prayer book and you cn Bc1om ntcr n church without finding n i Brore torn 0 on theIr ktoece No wma con go Into church arlng a hat or and hnnet a-nd Uiwe who alt pl to do no ore touched Ilk a long stick b > tho sexton and told to take their hats of One of the queer sights of Lima Is 1 a church congregation The people jou know are all Catholics nod the rrcemuoloo are ltnprrenive tboe cosbol100s or the priests Ixlng 1 resplendent with gold nnd olIver braid The mn cit by them scls nod the womn and L1rle oIl wenl1ng Ihee hlncl doilIes on their hn make you think of a ngrega lon or lun 51 ho acc ead 10 the world At their own hoi 11er they arc J am ho-i told quite as much olIve aB thlr ox nyw here The ar Ivaelols and charmln at o1le 10 holl theIr own In theIr talk lh the men Thy amn Interested In politics and thoso of Ule hett errlnescsorenr 1 eucatd bully tot thm speaking Prenh They nr cr ron or muelc ood ball play on the pin no tlu mandolin I nnd guitar exceedingly ex-ceedingly well As In I all 1 Spanish coon trIes girls aro neer lcl nlone with the mn unll they tore morieI and the ourtlng H I doM Wlththe 0 hole family lookIng on nt the billing and cooing Tty soc fond of eenlni parties ort or-t tlllo os they nre ollcd and ara loted for their sensuous dancing of the voluptuous waltz At home they dress much like their sisters of the rest ot Chritcnlom soot areos food or guy clothe and the blest styles ns our own American girls Tb eooocnurlghbo nomcn has I nm told not jet made I bmw oo I tore thoug Ihel lot I a moott mnt tuwarl gIving women cmploy nent In places wMch were formerly ex e bInlv rIp held by the men There are for Instance women clerks In the cull islnncc and the stamp which I shall put on thIs lot Icr Oil he Isought or a leroy lot gIrl who 1 1her lotd hrin I to Oulgrobotod my 101 fpanlah when I nol Itt 10 wellh 1 and hao I proprly rogltercd LIMA ON iioiisnmcic Ilma on horseback Is I quite as Inti r esbllog on Lima on foot Tin Or ore rew private carlacs her and r am told that there Is I not aIn ler tahle a-In the whole mitt The sbreltte paved with cobble stones an1 tho cobs Jolt your bones so that mt IWoll prefer to ride In tin street cols or on home TIe Ilorscs here he the ca loot got oOf001 I I overoreriolden It I Is one peculiar to Chile and Ii ru n sort of a cross between I a pace nnd I thc action of n highstepping Inckrey wblh calr1 tho rIr nlonA with les JoIUnA Ihln tht or 1 rubier tin dire comrloge Th hor > e d-ire email but sort spirited rltrec colons town the street now 1 older 10 I In fall rll tog cotumc nn1 he woul1 1 nol be out or plc In 10 llk were i 1 lot ror the big 511 remePorsnO loll ot his boots Notice how I imignlnVcntly thi horse Is npporoltd 1 ho bridle Is trlmme1 with silver r and Ihe stlrmps RIot plated ulth the same shining white metal lIe hae a heavj saddle blanket of Cur onot the reins bore n lot braided strap at lo-t to them w hlch he no nov an1 thin aatt whip How the hoe Trancc a8 Icc tickles him with the pun an1 how the tle000ee tnotll 010550 ho pat stool sly 1lnnes at him out of the tail or Iher cyes Thle he has stopped ond dl lscountI He Is I rtooplloul nt tIe horses front feet Cool tIe is I hock lung n short tap about them Just or the nnklc thu hobbling the horse He len I i him thus without tying and gas on Into II esbaro This we barn I 1 the way that nil leruI1 horeo i those In canlages as sveil us 10 without ore led Tbcre ore n hitching posts tli ring or hore weights In Lima and It Is 1 i n pollen meg nlalon Ihat I 5 coy hon Irft I obonn on the sbrent most he hohhled The rtcotos ud ore n ohort that they can he ally carrlod In the inicket nnd the tIll vrs of carts hobble their mules by tying the lines nliout their front feet WOMEN WHO IlIDn AhTItlDE Much of the peddling of Lima Is I doily Uton Irehacl 0101 In 00010 doi-ly en Ills peddlers ire Indian women Nearl nIl of the milk of tlie rltj Is cnrllod alout In ean tied to thi two side or a helen ipon the back I of soktri 5 lth her legs straddling the hore neck sits a brnzera < e woman I essed In bright camo nnd wearing n fondbrimmed Panama lint When the mli woman reaehee a hose 5b bore she han ereloeriloles down over the horn neck nnd bills ObOe 01 It orruns out ot the pocket In which It Is I field d lt carres 1 Ino tloo house The hn wann of Ilmn Ic I n horse wllh two panniers full ot booms 001 many or the vegetables arc ednled by women who ride onIrlobo he strict cam are drawn by ttorseo lout where there Is a slight gnde an 10100 horse or helper Is hitched lo the Ide of the team This hnre I not Irlven ns In the United Hlales hut ridden by a boy In n saddle who boo I long pUIS with which too keeps the I omsea p to his nork All 0rtB oC thlngi arc pedotlel on tlookryorlddes by ten or bttyo who cIt Juat In rront I of the tails of thi heaBt wih their hcks against the loads ot goods thy al peddling There are no liuckalc so ogon or crt ted tre drops of the ely ole org tsvmo keeled alnr cach I pulled by three mulis nbrenpt THANK I CAItPUNTKlt |