Show < I uJakemals uJaI derif 8 ODD INO1D1CNTS I OK KOKIBtON IRA VmI ANt Orl8ItI VAlION 1osnov Oft u JII9JH one has tailed tip I and down the magnlfietn fiorvvegUn < coast It Is racy to believe the statement that onelentil 01 the entire population of Norm arc fuller men Twenty million cod alone nre annually liken The value of full cad year exported from Norway Is l nearly 112000000 Irom llercen lo Viulio one Is scarcely over out of night of riihermcnt hull fuller fleets fulling stations and bleak anil dreary towns where full and ruling are the exclusive ron for the presence of man Agriculture atonj the entire cot and among the coast Islands II l carried on In patches lillY AS lo nstonlali the traveler trave-ler nt their Insignificance Little strip a few roils In length And a few feet In breadth Ate regarded by these patient folk as rUed possession and what they are made to produce Is I amazing To such straits are the rout and Isttt fuller folk sometime put for soil that It i Is often transferred from mtlnlatul In I IxMts 1 bit by bit to fill sonic crevice or I to be tailed In and cultivated l against Ilia floods and tempests which often wash It ruthlessly Into the sm I have teen these httl patches often cured for with aitly more eipenio and labor than the owners rude habitation Ills not Infrequent In-frequent discover them hall way Ul the broken tide if n beetling crag I know of many tint can only bo rcachei by lowering the owner to his firm by means of a wlndUMand It Is no uncommon uncom-mon thing to see them walled In Rt the I cdiMfotmlnca portion of sloping roo of stone huts abutllnc plains of mighty Jagged rock behind These bits of green seem to lake on added Intensity ol contrast for their sterile and desolate nurroundlngs and emphasize the only market Hardening of the coast the tremendous harvest of the sea In all Iho tact region where cod are taken Ihe curious apparent scene Is con sUntly presented the fishing stations jour steamer will call at or paw of tome vast clothes wislilnx Industry the at > surd notion powctsM you that 1 the laundry for all Europe r has been I found r oral a little distance the I white drying cod hanging over pules or covering r r Inf or lr ering acres of Hat I rock seem like countless count-less 1 and Inimejiturable collections 01 liigtrie bleaching In the nlghllcss days of the Arctic regfunt Tills Nor ejlaii codfiOi has the two name 01 iitokfuh Vockfiih or stlckli and klipluk or fish The former derives Its name from I being dried In pair hanging from a Ionic I iIi h link or pole and the II latter are klipfish I from being cured 1 uhera poles are not i available on the I Hat l surfaces of the I ttiffet etcrUitlni rock Drum I these they are sentlo the barn Ilkestruclures around which duller the drcury hablta lions I of the coast and hid 1 t which are to Ihe hilling Industry what thin slur I hall Is to the Norse firmer and 1 from these they are taken by cooling end I calla J1to lu the great waursldo 1 I storehouses find their war of llergen to their I iron final which market they In carious Mediterranean ports ho you will never escape the sight taste and smell of fish In Norway finery animate object along the coast rant human lo tea gull Is I necking tar list livery I coast cry town or huddle of houses Isempgid In catching curing I storing I or selling lull and lc would rot In ruin In a decade II lull dlsippeired from the sea roads and l liords The most picturesque sights In these waters are he tlott of fnhcrmcns crafts going or coming between ho home poiU and outlying station and l the numberless lag which their high peaked prows am Immense Milt ireipmg In and out of the blue bay < and shadowy liords or mats log In bewldtrlng confusion about the qua s of Ikr en and Throndhjcm At your hI1 roomy manner of fish Is served 111 cstrAordlnary variety ant Ire menoous quantity it ou are entertained enter-tained nt the IIII house ofa friend the nexcrfalling dish Is thrust before j on J fcrIlIS frs f yew boner further counlrywards assaults your satintr with pickled fish I llltt rs If you take potluck with the peasant there It It I agiln ground Into powder and 1 mingling with his porridge Up among the mountain Carter the women who care tar the herds and flocks will lance it upon you as n hospitable dell ucy At the tourist stations along the great stone roads of Norway It bobs tip I lo haunt you dried picklid 1 and In caviare I Anil i penetrating thin remotest country districts among the highland lakes and streams you will starve If you do not at once IM upon fresh lish serv cd while It U I still almost iiulv erlng mill Its I finny bloodless life I Inv known travelers who passlumtcly protested 1 a f ainattheunh ersallty of Ireal llrltnln J > Muni and eggs grow voiceless in dis pair from the oninlprisenco and Innnu nbihtyof lull in Norway AI 1 urncresque picture Indeed is that rn gradually I untolding from jour steamer deck when morning breaks through the inlits and begins I to t light up the city of J llergen A jumble I of spars of 11II KIr ping tails and then the Him outlines of nil manner of shipping but chiefly the odd looking lines of the old dragon ships of the Vikings Ihe litter of course laden with endlent start of lull are first to come In view Then ghostly rows of halfdchnid outlines ol win suggest llrotidinatlan monks squatting at the waterside with coined and boned heads as In mid tatlonor prayer TIe prove to bo the loot while fronkd ancient I store houses of llergen What neented a llo nt tin peak of each Is only RIII huge lppebom l I or rude crane IIJI It with Its s cumberous hood hko cover mid 1 when the Nord fur Slavni or northern teafarert arrival crowd the bay with fishing craft in unloading the unavory ficlLlil Here Is I the ancient llanseatlc quarter llrave nre the tales uf trade them odd old sturc house shell might tell Sirango kernel arm once here In the FrIcc council I rooms Strange romance cling In the ways and dit of these sturdy old f ll Leigue merchants merch-ants And sir liIu mid grewsome were the lives ol rlr hair slavish 1 i clerls who potted their days Ii these mighty I caverns of dead full I and by the lealoniy rvJrtTr th j of different nations might ever love but never wed Ihroughthu misty rose like the tint ol the ripened peach thin quaint old city teuni at list to float out of Its lihotthnesi Into clearer view Ilehlnd III r masts and the hooded storehouses net the grim < ithulrd roof and dente Ilea I bus of green hero the open paten net wondroosly green In these brief and humid summer days cinch r the uplands roof at Ant as brilliant purple and red as n rigged heather eat Scottish mountain I sides for 1 all irl these roof are flaming M wonlc < In ruddy l red tile Angle projection qualm corner hero and I there n Iapodak ioue end everywhere peak roof and slurp n iolelttsble In nuccmtlve t jugged lIir rl ioe ged t ends and bits ul color and cmirast of color rise not tier on tier but most picturesque Jumble upon mnM and miss upon jumble I defined at last by the loveliest I or valley landscape dlirata In whltaof villa and greens of narks Ialden arms and forests ao a 7nano gardens reach ol vineyard vale and Him all about Ihe dark mountain iHhjM sernleil dark and grim which shut In every scene eyes may beliol J In Notway ever i only nothingness and hit I mentlly lay forbidding and measuriles beyuAu One Is In love vv I ith old Dcrgen town before foot Is tit upon lit huge hart quays 1 he feeling Instantly IKKMSSSM you thai you are In u city and among a folk that have not let all manner 01 modern notions run away with their comfortable olden pusseuloni and way There is a sense of amplitude and I almost al-most benignity about thnoe wide oil structures of the sort one note when coming unexpectedly I Into a house will Yli J caMclou < and cheery fireplaces I Hill doing do-ing their hospitable duly and the I people themselves Impress you even Iwfore dealing with or knowinz them rsl with a lersonal I consclousnett of simple Integrity and measured paced contin Dial Irruiislibly put sunshine and benignity into your own heart and leads you on to inch tucccislve until ence with R cheorrn and good nature rnulually reciprocal II with uurelf and ever soul you meet In all other I wan dcrlngs my own u18rlenco has been that 1 never came to strange people or city II without cOI indefinable anxiety fain presagei 01 unforeseen lllnand lortbod Ingiof unlupiiy cltcgicries happenings and teeny l Not in with Norwny You may not know the Ian mlge of her people peo-ple but every face that Is turned to your teenn to rank and unruffled every eye that meets vour own Is to steady t and clear In 111 friendly candor and every salutation dealing and new experience terms to unaffected honest and genltl thai you move forward In cool lUyt doings as In an almosplutre of bcnlficenl liearthilde calm You will secure attlll finer view of red roofed llergen and environs than from your steamer deck by leisurely wandeilng up the magnificent mountain road 1 called the Crammens Velthe Dram U ay because built from the pro his derived from liquor license revenue rising along Ihe grand slopes of Ihe lolfjeld I I heights I domlnitlng the city I on 1 lrhrT the east Ills n stone road making toe treat bend before reaching the brow flf llofjdl but from tills point thin lights and thoda pin l r Ing upon the rotC rood tranaform old tlergen Into a curiously wrought tutu ho I of coral set roundabout round-about with the 1 luttrcut emerald of fool hill and vaticyverdure and the gleaming h r sapphire of the sea Gradually the chit I olJectaof the lown come Into prominence The moat anclenl portion of thn city Is I bencnll you There is I the Td kibryggr where are IheUutch looklnghouse < andall thin quilnt memorials of the llanseallc League Here I the steamers lay alongside along-side m the broad Vaage Across the Vnige or harbor Is I the more modern built city with Its blmndgaade lis Regent t Street or broadwiy wltlt Its I fine shops the uanhousei custom house and other building fur commerce and l trade Ikhind l these lo the south are the cathedral public squires and gardens gar-dens the cemetery the lepers hotpila the only object of rIel In Norway the villas t and gardens of the substantial merchants re idles of bright bay I w Melt nearly surround 1 the city and then 1 blossoming vile land obove which circle the everlasting hills Seaward the eye reels upon dim ribbon ol blue winding IIII dlll r 3 c1 away into misty Horde Interlacing the last of grhn headland I and threodiny I = illl 5 nW between mateo of lalandt eounllen nnl beautiful to the far and I serrated horizon i Probably 1 the mod characteristic scene In llergcn Is down here at the Ton of a Saturday morning tills Is the anclenl lish market It Is an open space In the iiuaj precisely I like the f rcttlt na rbl = fishmirkcl at Neu haven Edinburgh at 11mouth ngland 1 l and nt Gilvti Ireland Ire-land but few lull are brought ashore The stalla are the jigts or flslilne boats and there arc no baling fishwives Hundreds of peasants frim the surrounding sur-rounding country dressed In the peculiar pecu-liar costumes of their respective districts come to the Torv to nil vegetables cheese butter regs fowls I and many I rgio rude articles of home minufaclure Mingling with these are the honest housewives und maid servants of the city cltft Is i a cheery chatty hearty crowd all life anlnntlon and gentillt glitter InK with qualm old Kill and 1 silver ornaments orna-ments colorful Iron bright garter gaudy liodlccH ssflron and scarlet shoulder shoul-der ribbonslustrous braids l of yellow hair snowy ivhlte cap and l hrid kerchiefs glintlm wills sliver gllllJlfl or fine old embrolder livery 1 woman who comes to buy fish carries a shining tin pall or scuttle often ornamented in goody colors The fisherman Blinding lit their boats say never n word they are the most silent and l sodden salesmen oil ever knew the women do all the larlcrlng and chaffing Ulien n tallshctory price Is I reached the fish U i tossed up I to the buyer and the coin exchanged And to with pleasant bid I nige from the I quay and utter solemnity in the boats the I sales go on Hut think III fresh cod salmon umkerel and tar hot telling at the llergen fair al hut front lour to amz mils per pound Ihe more modern streets t of Ilfrgeu ire spacious and 1 wide and all ure natchletsly clean Nearly all the loiuei are of wood IIn large rambling roomy and every window el It 1 gay with bones and pots ol llowert Not even In the tropics are more llowtrs to be teen In summer All vegetation hero seems to taku on added beauty and lunurlince outnloor In proportion tile lo and the Norwegian brevity ol Its folk pearly are fund to pissionatu tendernes of every lea and bud and bloom for Its teeming espomlveiicM to affectionate miiire an1I1 ro nojze and care livery I open pace I Is filled with iree and shrubs fiery stnxt or horouglifire vields a vista bordered with I green and rnIR In I thoblue I r Hit loa l-oa or blossom of llowern Many of the olden structures ire very ancient and curious Some ol the old limo villas and home on the ounkirts are lntprestink for their suggntions ol wooden cistles where there wasiussi blo occasion for Itnso Thutlmbcn h are a tietlln i m k11 In the v 1111 t Ih outhlilldlll i rimant r an I vxi si r hills I v oliar of f ion lit I Vll ll r tileuf I grnrr ilions ol ma irr nd I Ii Ik and itrvltors living I In I a liltle cnnimiinity capable ol protecting Ito l own Intrgiity rn < t ant manner ol off o iVt ic rr e un it h I rat Our in Iho litgotI I i I < n Ihe Tyi > kclr > ig < in the re i n cl niun Uln uf harl I I fttrc tit l aint I ul by trjing rodh I h nel lh I dl I th trio gear of 11 u I eilest Ii I hmh ulrI of I n rltirrn I lu p I Mill si 11 N I a 1IJ kit 1 IU ralir Ito it It is 111 inly one k I t In llrricn whirr the old time German trader lived and traded almost I k a parcel of pirate monks The ttiangrtt ol rude caivinRi painted In biilwric colors bedeck the exterior The I merilimls fantoillcal y carved and paneled office the mnnarers rot cty buieati the cell Imllccleikt living rooms and dormitories remain Jut at they ante one toed The laltf I r are very unique and inli re + t Ing floe beds I lub bunt In lien like a ships emigrants quanen One Ride of inch tiny bunk Is I closed with Mi ged door thutlert opening to a passage oat where I the female I tervintt Ciiiid nuke the clerks beds without I entering I their rooms Yuu will also see In hit I ancient I Ian seallc house a great number of strange Idl I t ul dally me In tills ancient and powerful money grabbing communlt Among them are huge candlesticks cabbage chopping machine curious cod lull ill lamps lantern metal wash Inwl mammoth long Hemmed pipe 1 Ir dutch h 11J slaves with hags for church collection fur these old l robbers were pious as shrewd strong boles bound with brail and Iron l arms ol ill leaguen and even ledgers recording their mighty gains One fancy conjures Rembrandt pictures here anil you look for tome I romance matter to set and setae and set In rlIfI page the liintne tern I liens and often the hupelesa pathos of Ibis grist old tradeconnntuil I There It alto an Interesting I district of llergen lying I I between the Slrandgade r md the harbor Olle never tires of this or narrow thoroughftrtn lead don he hay In which arc itrange projecting roof huge diamond panel windows had my colonnade clumsy bilconlei mil drowsy echoes of emlleis waterside ralhc On SlrandgaUi llself there am showy shots In hatter In ancient shops Into which curiously carved stair nscend nr < descend and museum like shops where old silver Norway carved woods furs and all odd manner of keep lake nuy be hou hL It Is 1 here that all day long and itln night long for II It mil daylight I In ll rgen luinmer time between eleven and twelve clock at night move to and l fro the placid pleasant throngs Among them are Ihe neasintry from Saeterdal from Hard inger from Ihelcmark from Uvanger and bunt the outlying IsUndi Ihest more than all else give color and character to ancient llerien town and you grow Impatient to follow them over the mountains to their lonely hornet among the sombre floral beside the misty waterfall and within the slumberous slumber-ous upland daleLDOAR LDOAR U 1 WAR KUAN |