| Show Ual emais Uapderii 81 I ODD INCID1CNT8 OK1 KOII5ION = TRAVIS AND O13S1IKVATION LONDON Oct ig itoj Norway uo I rut and baggIest by the nutrwrotu floiiU or sea arms vshicti often penetrate nearly to her cutters boumliry thai It might perhaps be l truthfully lAid her thoroughfares thorough-fares are mainly b > water nod that her many And trtmtmlotn Hone roads of the mountains and valley are after alt merely fmleri to her llent and mighty uilcr ay > One could truly we most of Norway without ever leaving it alnmer deck lip keeping to the route OIllhllhed fromciile through the larger fjords and their almost countleu lesser arm sort branches I and never leaving them on either t hind more than a half i score mlto I I every principal point ol scenic Interest could be gained And II I one should setout set-out upon a land Journey Irom Slav ringer on the outli otern COM to Trondhjem midway to the Lofoden Islands I Is-lands It Is I likely that nearly one hull ol this distance of from three to four hundred hun-dred miles would ttlll neceuarily be traversed In the counties rowboaU roebaude and little steamer of the lord These fiords are therefore almost first n combined attractIveness to the traveler They POMCM I three distinct phases of Interest They are the chlel national hlllbl the greatest possible diversity In peasant and village life Is I found upon their shore And In the adjacent ad-jacent valleys and with few exceptions as with the glacierfield and upper waterfalls crag and dales of the ficrcel desolate fields iir mountain reaches they certainly provide culminations com 1 nationscl the most IniprenKe scenery to be found In Norway I Of late yean Norway hal almost outrivaled out-rivaled Switzerland as a resort toe Indefatigable In-defatigable lovers of the sublime In natures na-tures aspect ThU II It largely because t ret ol this commingling I of the Alpine the marine and the humiii elements In our own amazing Ycnemlie there I ore N f d etf Immensity sublimity t and a silence that h appalling Here are all time In Infinite In-finite variety and exprcMlun cndleu rea reach measureless waterdepths sneer walls Iron norm to 4000 feet In luight majestic I snowclad 1 peak twice I this 1 altitude t tremendous torrents and waterfalls thousands of fret from leap to pool glacierfields hundreds square Ir Illtlo i J miles In ureaanil toning mid softening all from an endless unorjmi uf sub llmlty unbearable that tender threading of human color In neverfalling sight of valley orrrle lIet of love and effort where hirdy honnt yeomen dwell lire most noted of these Norwegian fiords are the I lanlatr er tIre Sognr the rrondhjem and the dranger f Ilom the lust three extend more than a score of laser fiords Most of these are mar veil of beauty and grandeur as Indi viduattilte Alt are ssosnrsirswatlesl I and neatly nt locked Their iiruln t I Ion by the nuter shermles sail hurl I and the unceasInK tremendous counteifone of mountain torent Irom tin Icelielil prevent n tidal cisc ol I their natural I tar aCes of more than three fort Of the four named the Gdrnngrr I the narrow em the llard < nger the most beautiful the Tromltjcn the mot interestingly diversified fnd the Sonne and l Its diver Kent aim ihe IOIIJII and mutt savage nnd olln ap > alllr g In Its rr ndeui i Through VI acctsslbiliiv from llrrgen the HirJi2T fiord 11 likely to be tine fill Norwegian lord een by the loin int II I tu I about iivenl miles in length Two closes nf i reomera trip upon nell 1 aa well at crust the other fiord named Ihe iwift c adamS and elegant mad atcrni eriwhlci Ianhat lew landing calkI statloiis sent the local passenger ned ficjilit hind w lilch take no bend ot time em fI from iu lot ilol Utter t shliuld I I nlwav be chMn They I are very com forlable scupulously clean bird the Incident In-cident of Ihe voyage are more varied and charming Deaden the magnificent scenery ol the fiord Is I thus more Ittaurely csjocI 1 Mora than a hundred culls for pass rogers or freight are made on lIre voyage voy-age to Odde at tine I head of tIne fiord fill tilings > oil In 1 closer contact with tine life nlnim Iu nuniherlr valley stations and along the lardanger I fioid tins II ot much account at the peasantry of the lUnUngcr I dltrllI are xrhap the most characltrMIc In dies and cintorm let remaining In Norway The IIIHIMII In tereit along the I lardacger I continiiius rouf > s ol the awiilry CpCjII where setting nut for or reluming from funeral I weddings or summertime I iso llville are aiivas al plctureiqui HI may be ten In llnttiny or Normindy l The men are nil clad In ilaik garments and the wointii ore gay with glint and color lI I lie Ilardangar female cuntume In the held ulten consist of one garment his pta > Irc Ihe oulhnei of the form with considerable freedom Ihoiigi there unit aluayi be a bit of color in kerchM alwiil hire neck or head list when these liar danger matron and lasses bedeck them itlvciforsailor merry occasion the are terlaln old andgaudilv painted pine elicits In every household lobe salcty drawn i pon for requisite finery Ills thin their buck blue or brown woolen skirt reach dir plenitude nnd Immrasurable folding of the New haven fishwife or Ihe Connemara knitter on market day Thrlr saista amid sleeves are anna p while and never err rIe w here teen such v ait spoilt and flowIng flow-Ing apron as they possias Their fgh 3 1 i t blight bodice ulikn use alviij open for illplay through n square yoke of noy pUlli bill of embroidery and monstrous diver I roaches are quaintly wrought wild silk vvllh I el beads or with I slim and Kilt while I tire tremendous I lttte tl while cm of tIe rntrrient le women winged I win-ged ond blaring and ukVare held In I 1IIIIce over light wooden framei The ttl4 often wear only the hands head 8nls rcM which j 1 nature gave them braided with bright ribbons although some will lie seen with tiny beaded cup a perched jiunllly upon their I heads As the Irish i lotintry li I 11 on cury thi r < hle < nntuln t kinkto I tie if r i t vi lJI non n-on markelia mid I innix elI > i ut their prell ret t mimi I In I gs mo II cm nl ion v nel1t hallllIIPA CO h > the roadside 10 theme Ihnity lliirdag p usnt woman wo-man make paired mI their I m I i > ie < liis lIamlenl ami finery and com 1 u timC emoting lolleln near tine ilace I im ny making nr before entering tin I Mil I f church unconscious of olive mvatn n and liiiocent of alarm Then there are the oncoming And debarking de-barking pstangcrthc curious f > rnu nf freight landed and receive1 the i i llnuoin crossing and rrcraning of Ihe written hy pennant paille from vII > to vrfllry and hamlet to liamlel the Inurbl crow shing fur In uane engaging rurrk Vr mountain hors nmlahle ollectiois nl Slolkiaeres drives with their tlenl poniw and their lunihennR rants dean and I n r 000 en route to iiI ii-I ml pnllnhes American and English hunters and fuller with their marvelous outfit and belongings comprising every r rr thing lave evidence ol ante taken tiling out for the field or being rowed to more promising heists of Ofn i grave old bonders from upland gaaide silent impuiunl wise 1 Inn rolund from Rxid ihgealion and calm and benign from measurtlcM conlnl muking IOU feel that there Is I MmiethlnK ubsiinllnl nhoul Norway aside Irom her crags and Ice lumber owners from the rule willing the mills anil teeking and 1 sorting their logs engineering partleat work upon II Ihe trndlo Luk ol bringing the valley and fiord nearer together geologist and naturalist Innumerable with Impoverished Impover-ished Mores ol siwimenshiit 10 enthusi astlrally eiuihiiK wild theoilei and con jetturcii j about Ihe glacier age and the inoralnen lhat no peace shall com unill linen discoveries In book fnrni finally lo IJr dria 11t terminal moraine ol li hlernture the tcrtil libraries cobwebbed ihrlves and evtrywbere the Ire nini nmateur photographer pale with energy anillos sri sleep and the lean lank lone lorn iclisl bent with rheumatism humped from bronchitis and in his scant ntllre as Incongruous n spectacle at n skirtleu lullet dancer dropped among IlmaUyua I height Throii0ll the entire leiilh of the hoc I I rl danger fiord and lnl It lesser outreachlng upper fiords here are the I most extraordinary extra-ordinary variety ol 1 scenery possible lo find In an equal distance Ivery station hath glen or chasm or Alder dill Cach ol ihcw pour It river or tumultuous torrent Intu the fiurd Where the mountain widen out Into amphitheatre there use the circling vale frmgtd nl lime top rl by n horiionllne ot polished I or lagged rock with n lesser circle of savage ilebri below then a feathery rim of fnlf r thi i the emerald er tine larms with their clusters of softened gray old tttuctiirn out then the foaming foam-Ing river shooting trout the depth of tine vale with the uhlllih villow line of tine mountain road betide I It anil f following follow-ing all Its tortuous mInting and finally the liamlel I l brown and guy at the very edge of the blue wabtes of the fiord Such valley scenes give alky ns blue ns Italy suggntloni ol inaccessible unit fniien height the mlsiy canine tint I that lay in Tuscan vales like the rime of lipened grate atoM nut tang urou liixurLince such o > haltshrouds and half reveal the valleiof Cuba and 1 nil the mellow quaimneM of Nitherland liamlels at one glince Whre Ihe titlon cluster of miHsy struct sets I nt the mouth of shadoxy gorge there are dills not hundreds but thousands feet above A glitter nf foam like n ChilleD telling to Ihe black background and now unit then fir > i > ti l > rilin gorge td a shut of Jtr hjit u I l tIn loctueil brauty I m i df lint upland ulrls hot tar an mstai t Litwien vtird cloud reaching I wilN I Now far mrmil fo II hu tweed precl pi me Irom 3000 I < > n I ii I ini I Thf Hletin herr I 1 I rulll water laky thi tin u > Ii 1 rb tide sun Iaunenf I > mnttild I nowi Ie rear midi mm him I uui we fI lolil Ihe water Lisih I i Is I leep dtepir ian than tin i 5i i nuisirii V 1 I heooloe n mu lolly bxc Suddenly we tan I 1 fct a vale ol almost irmnial bian scnrctly is tins contmiplaied 1 befin t courie carrlca our light to n ml lc l crags vthh n valley line alone 0 < ud i this a leathery line 01 forest IM i irt eilgi of rock touched tiy ihe I > hI > < tram Itghmt Into = loll i niaise of burnUhi I if 1 lruiue 1 and far and line ol quivering high lieyondiau inciliK 0 vering mnphire turn where the truckle Ice AtliU of the olKefond I throbl Ing Mil pulsing their vit tasteless lire In Ihe glHMily uiper buhl I And ao on mid i to Oddelhe tongue of land wh iv you seem to have come lo the edtc nf r rhorltl anil where Ihe brown hamlet lcta l lying 1 anil borland 1 by goriir ami > noi < f acd loss amid I hefghi look holy I < ut from I Is plus I beruus Inn nnd liou back nlong the blue way too came upon one of the I finest blended iciiu of wave and mount nnd sky In be fonml in all 1 our good otil globe What la line of thus grandest of Ii I all Norway fiords i > iruln partkular or In more InlenM and inipresilve type I of Trundhjein of deiranger of Sogrw 1 1T rr and of all iheie I ser liurd Tiondhj alcoa < vaster penpecllvei ami drearier readi 01 slghl but Mill possesses Its su meauri I the wondrou I I = r seldom versatility of lardnnger I while It provide the lender valley view Gelran gee anuieof lovely vale and gIns of cataract atm the tioudnof l precipice clllls oral towerlnn togs of hamleu upon up-on mountains wiili mountains above these ud of waterfall highest lien derest fiercest and uniwn i filmy In all the world and so great in number that they are sllll unmanned and uncounted The Sogne fiord cannot uta lie regarded regar-ded us the most sluprnHous I and 1 often appalling continuous spectacle o far accMslble In tine I Ut tnveler in any putt of Ihe habitable globe Ills I practically n sea unterway of more thin one bun died miles In length and with brunches and ramifications ol twice that distance tplil through almoitiolldmountain wall Irom 4000 to 6 coo feel m height lIt water are the deepest of all the Nor weglan fiords l while the holes allord Infrequent anchorage If by any meant the waterbed of the Sogne hord could become dry tourism could in many place look imon almost perpendicular I rocks from 8 nan lo tunas fret shove their heads retv valley open upon the Sogne but tremendous cha ms nre consUntly appearing lime Ialltry here huddle in almost inacceulbo placet long distance apjrl and moved to and i fro between their tiny hamlets in Iwal built witli rude sleeping accommo ilatlon At various place on will see bus of shtlvini monk to which Ihelr lioats are tied 1 at night Near thrse are Imp cave or rock Insures usetlai huts unit ns kitchens In these trips ol overnight over-night duration Iho scenery grow more grand and Imposing a s v ou proceed up the fiord reaching pernarM 110 most sombre sublimity sub-limity in the Naero lord I one nf Iu branche Another arm II I the laer land 1 1 1iord near which one the vastest snow cave and icefields uf Norway and the romantic village of Ilalholmen scene of i lOchs Si > when lId tree arm0 the mouiiain lip 1 on Ihe snnny lull opes I Kipemd the goldrn barley I and rye waved lallir than ciam and from its extreme eaMcm branch tire rlnisl H h ihnd 1 i < al waterfall iv si rn Nr iv IM I mighly Vellifo I r > ich d 1 I while tnrungh very opening ii tin North nnemmu n the glitantlc tins ol Hi oM lils I glacier the i largest in I unnim and conring an arm of liu humlrid Minnro I mile In 110 Hnrim niullipidlv I of these scent of beauty mil grandeur these Is I one tint will remain fadeless In lIne iraieler a memory It Is I that one when in the lirkl HS night of these northern latlludea as your steamer creefis along I down there rno the almost blackened anil nhyismil silence between these juried mountain wall I you look through t their I lifts toward heaven and knowing Ihe night lime hour are given Indefinable him in the splendor ol the light still lingering tenderly upon mlghly mountain moun-tain peak of 1 that promised region of endle Mornln hands ibscoan ld Wmcessou |