| Show YE WEARING THEM HEM 7 HIGHER IN IW PARIS I. I THAN HA HAWAII W AND NO AMERICAN H. H HUBBY Y ii WILL STAND ST lD f FOR FOl IT SAYS SAY DRESS pRESS ARTIST I J T r y b A Ji t I 1 1 t. t t y II an ant t y y I r f J j t f. f I f j. j 1 r t v I 1 V. J y tJ t i hl t i-t j. j v. v i K If y 4 I S l lK i 4 if L fl ti t 4 r f HS S. S A Io I W J L. L H I. I l I v j jM J PI JJ 5 41 r F M z 1 t j J Akl CRY I Axt A iDS R I. I By Jane Dixon tW gw Maybe Maybe they are FI ruin them higher In Hawaii 1 0 matter how high th they are wears wear- wear s jj them accept it from Charles Kurzman the Lit Lit- j.- j. r. r t tle 10 Napoleon of ot ofa a N New ew w York the he grass flounces of the ukulele I. I Island III- III l- l und and have nothing on the lass cUss frocks p of the tho rue de la laI i Paix I a kYo Paris Is wearing its std skirts higher Its waists shorter than It ever didAs did As for tor the sleeves lee 1 i of ot I Paris well Paris well my dears dearll the the- sleeve is 18 isu u I extinct t in the gay py l- l Trench lench ench city an as a Stan pre presidential boom or the tho more moro west Bronx cocktail Ilir Kurzman Kunman Is Just back bac from and other fashion c centers litre h he has hh been gunning for tor the mutest models model money can buy and User cr can dictate Ur Kurzman is an on artist A beau beau- ol gown cown Is 11 to him a beautiful pie plc- r. r r. r e. e But when he remembers the the abandon of ot the ne Fartun Part Fart un Ut school of ot dress dresa he puts pub his trembling hand to his troubled troubled troubled trou trou- I bled brow and III sighs hs It cant can't be bo bedone done not done not In America I Never have hae I tI seen en such fluch I I he declares In in the Casino ut at t Deauville Deau- Deau ville where one meets dozens of ot woI women women wo- wo I I men who spend p p nd from to 10 1000 I a year yea r on dress drus alone the effect I tin Is startling I Every very one goes oes to the Ca Casino In InI Inthe the evening to toy with fortune across I the tho tables or to dance The evening gowns are magnificent what magnificent what there Is II of them A front or back bak or even evena a side view from the waist up tells nothing except In terms terras of ot polished Ivory shoulders satin smooth backs and delicately curved bosoms I COVERED WITH GEMS I What the daughters daue of ot fashion leaves off In the matter of ot materials I they bey make up In Jewels Women are literally covered with gems diamonds the tho size of plums great burning rubles rubles ruhle blazing emeralds starry sap- sap Their necks are hung bung with ropes rope of pearls pearl each gem Jem of ot which represent ent I a fortune Somewhere there must have bavo ave been bean someone fattening on th the war New Yorks York's If expert went on to explain ex ex- plain the significance of ot the famous French racing and health resort Deauville as It t affects fashion IlIs It Il ItIs ItIs Is here style has its first showing Thither trots the darling of ot the footlights footlights foot foot- lights II the music hall favorite the celebrated songbird of the opera the dazzling demimonde the who has caught the fancy of ot fickle tickle fashion They go to see and be seen They are the human peacocks to whom the triumph of ot a gown means as much as Chateau Thierry to an American marine What women were wearing at a few tew weeks ago o we will see a at Palm Beach and our fashionable fashionable fashion fashion- I ot Dr tsa i able e Southern rn resorts this winter it We will not get the style here generally i until next season After Arter the bathing hour every one ono goes to a little street called There they stand or stroll up and down to study styles The street Is only a block long and all traffic is 18 stopped except for the p pedestrians during fashion hour Every frock Is Isa isa a a. creation It represents hours days i of study on the part of the creator The distinguished feature of the evening gowns was their lack of ot sleeves A sleeve looks out of ot place in Paris these days If It it oc occurs occurs occurs oc- oc curs at all 1111 it Jt Is 18 practically unnoticeable able reaching only to the elbow or or above NO GLOVES WITH SHORT SLEEVES Oddly enough there arf are no gloves worn with short sleeves What a harvest It would ha have been Ifen for glove glove- love makers if It th they co could ld ha have han e Induced induce d the fashion originators to de- de decree deree ree gloves gloves' When hen gloves glove are worn wit with h sleeveless or semi gowns the theare they ar are gauntleted affairs reaching Just jus t above abo the wrist The rhe space space- In between be- be between be be- tW tween n N is bare The effect borders o on n caricature but strangely ly enough till fits into the picture there ther Mr lr Kurzman showed me mf a A. pair o of ot these gauntlet gloves They were lying with a number r of ot other novelties novel novel- l- l ties Just as all they had b been en unpacked In his hili office the day before tore when he j I returned from Paris Gloves were were- of soft sott white glace skid kid fitted tight to the wrist with I a rubb rub- rub b br ber r. r A turnover lr of tan leather scalloped scalloped seal loped finished the end of the gaunt gaunt- let You might be interested In this pair of J Parisian slays stays suggested Mr Kurzman They will give Ive you an Idea of ot the tho scantiness of QC attire this thin I season My informant picked up a a. I Uon that would be wrapped up an and andI d I stowed away In coin corn purse It Jt was composed of three strips o oJ ot f wide Inch black ribbon embroidered with pink rosebuds To think of the days day of ot the s ste steel l and whalebone Inquisition In tn Inv t r When I say skirts are short In InI I Paris I do not mean to infer Inter they are uniformly short explained Mr Kurzman The French woman Is too clever to adapt herself herselt to a style She adopts the style to herself This season she wears her skirts short yes but not too short They are of ot the length suitable to her height and figure She will never burlesque herself herselt tobe to tobe tobe be In the fashion The same is true of ot hats Are they wearing large hats or small hats the American woman will ask HATS OF ALL SIZES They are wearing both large and small hats and all the sizes in between be be- be tween The Parisian does not bother about the size or shape of a hat Her sole care is to have it becoming It must be smart dashing chic picturesque pic plc- I any any of ot these features will do but one of ot them it must have I saw a great many soft Tam Tarn o 0 They were wearing them at Deauville with their fluffy afternoon frocks Tam Tarn o 0 or the artist cap as It is called over there is always prevalent In Paris and the fashionable resorts So Is the They are worn by when fashion ta taboos taboos taboos ta- ta boos them everywhere else Somehow Somehow Somehow Some Some- how they seem to suit the women where here they would appear cheap and affected An artist hat is a re It must be built to fit the t face e. e No two t faces es are alike alle To select one one I haphazard Is to make yourself I long loue Nothing so d detracts tracts from the he looks of ot a woman woman as a carelessly arI arranged arranged ar- ar I rn ranged d. d unbecoming artists artist's cap Mine georgette f one of ot the smartest Kren French FrenchI h hi i fashion artists at I eau Deauville wore an afternoon f frock of ot white silk trimmed with white coque feathers inthe In III Inthe th the form of ot soft ott fringe and with It an artists artist's cap of ot black velvet elvet Jt It was a I striking combination I 1 do not care for tor the Parisian shoe It looks look all right there because one one C gets ts accustomed to it lI e It Il would j Ile i ibe be le ridiculous A typical pair of ot pumps W was s dragged col- col out from the novelty no I lection Ridiculous Ridiculous' is right The trunks of ofa ofa ot of a a. circus rider would divulge nothing I more ornate Black patent leather broad very short hort vamp round toe I II I with scrolls and figures In white s IerI Ier- Ier rr- rr I o er the surface Across the ankle was a a. strap also highly des dee decI I I I orated I WIZARDS WITH A BIT BIT OF RIBBON I I There are no coat suits suits In Paris j i says j. j s Mr lr Kurzman The coal coat suit sull be belongs belongs be- be s llone-s longs to America and to French wom women n seldom If It ever wear it I I They prefer preter one piece dresses I Even Kven the business woman wears a a. i on one piece dress of ot serge or satin or orsome j ji I i some practical material never A suit I II I The best of ot It Is you ou will alwa alws always tin find I j I I I some little Individual touch about the I II If I I f dress j. some high light the wearer has lias i added to suit stilt her type her p personal personal- It ity The They are wizards with a bit of ot I ribbon a knot of ot lace the French rench I I With it they can alter tho the appearance I 1 of ot an entire frock bring it from I II j I mediocrity to style dash i Yes Yell even l serge dresses have short sleeves elbow length and above That Thatis I Is it the one essential feature of ot every i ismart smart art dress sleeve dress sleeve shortage I IThe The French rench fashion artists seem to I I have gone cone mad on the subject ct of ot drap- drap I Ings s. l- l is draped No 0 two are draped alike Each is draped to tn I conform with the material and aid the figure fig 1 ure it II Is hI to fit tit This gives the creators a real chance to display the utmost of ot their talents It Jt requires an un artist j I t to successfully A badly t drape a gown own I 1 draped gown will bring out every d de defect de- de i feet feel In a faulty figure Ure It will even en caricature a good figure Do Po not risk draping draping- unless you know for tor a certainty certainty I the trick of combining lines I folds curves and sweeps Furs Purs are oro three and four times Spies more costly In Paris Parts than they are here So are gowns for tor the matter of ot that Squirrel and Kolinsky are the favorites favorites favor favor- ites now with broadtail and ermine for more dressy wear I noticed a a. great quantity of ot os ostrIch ostrich ostrich os- os both in and as garniture garniture garniture garni garni- ture for gowns Every day one of the famous houses of ot dress displays a anew anew anew I new way of utilizing utilizIng- fluffy nutty feathers until their possibilities seem endless They are a part of ot the opulence the richness of ot prevalent every every- whereAs whereAs where As for colors no one seems to pre pre- dominate Color this season is to be strictly a matter of ot individual choice I r saw every color and every shade of every color on the dance floor noor and I i cl clustered about the gaming tables at at Deauville Your favorite color your j i most becoming color that is the one j u I Ito uto to choose They cannot be bo too gay I They cannot be too delicate A ruby I I gown own tonight and a pink like pale dawn tomorrow night The next night black or emerald green or hyacinth HIS OWN FAVORITE I asked Mr Kurzman to tell me which of all the gowns that flashed I Iacross across the panoramic film of fashion fashion- dom left leCt the most vivid impression fashion I on onn his mind Ind Which was his own 1 tion n I That Is a difficult question he I answered Like asking asking- a collector of ot beautiful p paintings to pick out his I favorite canvas in the Louvre There was one though a Doucet creation Richness elegance were its Us keynotes It was a blue broche lame a sort of ot a light Alice blue and silver brocade soft as cloud mist The plain part of the brocade was embroidered i with tiny blue beads It was not a a. heavy dress Under the lights it had hadI i ithe the effect of ot shimmering moonlight Such a gown Is what I call a real work i I of ot art as much so as the finest paint paint- i ing I It was time to close the fascinating i ing chapter on dress Tell me I said knowing the blushes blush blush- es Cs of ot a thousand eyed eager-eyed youths depended on the answer will American Amen Ameri I can women adopt the tho forthe for forI or orthe the coming season season You know weve we've been In the war too and were we're Just as I much entitled to a decadence In dress as the next fellow AMERICAN HUSBAND l WILL OBJECT She will not was the determined reply Do you know wh why Because the American man the American husband husband husband hus hus- band and father tather and brother will never stand for it The French look at those things differently The American man manwell manwell well well he is Just American man that's I all an He lie has his own code of ot honor honorI I I About dress as about all things His own idea of ot the proprieties and pro- pro I I In of the women of ot his household household house house- hold hold I 1 guess at that they must bo be wearIng wear wear- I Ing them higher In Paris than in HawaII Hawaii Ha Ha- wail the place about which the son was written Higher and lower L Lets Let's ts t's say neutral Is good enough for tor I us |
