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Show UaKmais Uatyderiis, oDD INOIDISN'I'S Of KOKISiCN TRAV13L AND . . onsuuvA norx Loxdov, Mircli 6, 1S93 There Is at ways a deeply pithctlc side to ftivcl, free as onc' licnrt nny be frum sights .mlshidows Many tl lies ns jou nny luve witnessed ll, Ihere Is a little dram 1 alwaji ptrfortncil as the git.il ocean stcimc 11 leave tl10 I"" of f York, lich brings tliu milt to jourlandwird Ungejcs Hjoiiiucn 'Tint tripper" It will thrill I sou d ncr "'" uu 'mo pcrlin I uoouVr'-ilwhat tint bronxetl ficcd man H In ciilieii' clothing was doing up there H among Uic lcpanj;lcil officers upon the gl brull' " seems the quietest fellow H onkoirJ Ills eyes are slngllngout the I ro tr chinml buojs, or, with a glass W rapiJIf "ouitiini; the lower Jersey shores (I lid tl" gleaming lints of the Long I I.hnJ sands, or agiln glancing at this I point or tlnl along the sei horizon 1 1 is I fjananslous fice. The lines In it tin I consciously picture the human look tint I trlls of something lost, or of gnat m danger tint there miy be, 1 have seen men like him stuul where ho Is with H u at me look, am the perplrillon M dropping front their ficcs In streams In Hie coldest of weather. Tins man is not the ship's captain, but Bj I ile I e stands there, now ami then H Living n low -toned order, he Is absolute lv commander of the ship. He is n New j ork 1 Hot, detailed from the burr Hj Wall strut pilot otlice to lake jour ship flj lot n In ortliniry cises his Ice would U I l based upon the ships tonnage With H the larger uccan slcamshlps n lumped ' flH price is mide. He must remain aboard until Sandy Hook Is passed, and ns H m ch further nut ns the steamer cnptiln desires nil Hit I c pleasant weather when j ou are j abreist of Sandy Hook, Jou will notice flH n row boil, jiwlbullt, 111 mned by two nun, putting out from the lightship ( nrchorcd between vour stumer and the Hook This lightship is simply a New Yorkhatbor pilot bo it, by pilot rcgula- tlons undo tn do her "turn ' ul 1 III ' month 1 stan I" in this luisav ory, though c ten ciclllng, birth Her crew are n I ilols' 'prentices getting their first Us I sjnsand experience nt pilots' duties nml lardihlps Tito boat being rowed Irlskly towards jour steamer In the I channel is cillcd a ' pilot's punt," and Hie tw o 0 irsmen nre knottily built 'prcn tlce lads of eighteen or twenty years of ifH age At the same moment the punt I heads lor the steamer, the litters I engines slow low n. The punt and the I stcimer meet nt the point of an exict rlght-ingle. 1 Ines are cist, the punt mule fist to llo.it alongside the (Hi ships port side, and the rope-ladder Is UKi lowered Mil Meantime the pilot Ins resigned his j post on the bridge. The chief olhccr 9U immediately takes his plice .Stepping JH to the chart room the pilot certllics In SjH the log-book tint the ship has duly jQl rlcarcuthe port of Keu York, the ship a Sfl commander certifies 10 the pilot's fee, JB which pilotage is paid by the New Yolk agents of the I nc, and In A moment more the Hot is "dropped" into the wailing punt U) the ship's rail suniK the purser, or the null slew nr I A thousand addend 1 good byes have be 11 lustily written sealed and stimptd and hundreds o! tclcgrims Irdneil le twecn the docks nnd the Hook, lime the Inst sit ink r thread beiwiin I in I and home and the unalterabli fintlliy 1 1 jour voyage, nto let down I y In e to th' pilot, who tikes them ns witiiunron r-clourncss tenderness In his a m- In another Instant the ship ng n s ore agiln thundering The pilot punt Bhoots sir light for the lightship Tie (dicer onthe liildgc nods to the boat swain whose shrill whistle ' itilkisih llij.s " The quartern! liters bri 1 low n the shin's three Mags the "blue I 1 r or sailing day fhg from the fir mast the owners or' house' II ig from tli miinmisl and the ensign front ih gdl" ns n deid shot hunter will bring s mie gav bird of inssagc from lis fl glu quis rringly to his feet. A liiewell cli r lings out over the port side niter the denrting pilot. our oyage Is now irrevocable begun. "II desertnrl" 'II descrtarl" were the lowtonctl ejaculilltms 1 heird all about me one April morning, In 1X86 In Hie cabin of Hie fcrrybou, ' I douird I esser, ' ns it left Iho Kegla side for Ihe two-mile trip across llavani baj to Hie city 1 he cabin w is well filled and hi n moment there came fussing and fuming fum-ing through he narrow pissigo to the I fuiwnid cabin n Spanish sergeant an 1 n 1 (,utd hsving In charge n mm ol movt pitiable appeaiance I made room iiulckly so tint two seats were mint near me In which Ihe guird and his prisoner sal, the latter next me, while the sergeant bearing a piper with n din gllng seal, slrodo loiwutd a bit, pompous pom-pous Willi the Importincc of his liiUslon and charge These femes carry the gaest of crow ds between II ivina and the beautl ful suburbs to the east, but tho emr nice of the paitv hushed the hughter and pleasant sillies of men mid women Instantlj All present seemed piliifullj exerting themselves tu ignore the presence pre-sence ol the Utile (.roup, hut everyone from lime to time stole secret glances at tho dcsertcr.nnd.wcllforhtiimiillj.nol 11 hard look fell upon him. Some old priests neir seemed to bo moving their lips us Iflnnravcr for him, ind behind many 1 hn I could sec the lice of some beiullfiil scnon orsenoilla In tears I knew well enough what It all mean!, having once been 11 soldier. Hut I did not at once eaten the lull import of Hie brutal celerity of Spimsh iiuhtarj re vengc. Shortly the guard closed n flip-p flip-p inl recital to 1 pissengcr neir him, to the edict that the man had deserted front Hie forces nt Morn ctstle smile weeks before, after a tremendous floe-glng floe-glng for some slight Infraction of discipline, disci-pline, hid got so lir as the Jiruco mountains moun-tains where he battled puisuit fur some fine, but finillj hid been run down by blood hounds "Ah, jes," he nlrilj concluded, "he will reillynot even need breakfistngiln. The conseio de guerra court unit il is already awaiting his arrival Ihe deserter vvns bjt n hov He had a fair face, too. round, ilmoit bovish, even through the hunted look that had m ide him an old man In tt rror and des-wia! des-wia! fluri during those few weeks in the eliapairal His clothing wasinrags, and his hire flesh, srntied and bloody, showed through Ills feet were piril bound with rigs and batk and ttiongs ol tin ribbon tree He was bare head d. I Is In ar tingled and knoll), and In one Plieu n saber cut was nil open and I hiding Hut ho sat there with his hands 1 Icnchtd nnd Ins face like a piece uf marble begrimed with mud. 1 htoiigh th w mdaw s of the ferry the spirs, tigging, and lltgs of n thousand slims upon the iwuceftil s gleamed unci i.loiviil ns we pissed Tile sun tint iRhird the whole colli with such splendor kissed the mum lain and mule ul I Muro cisite even beautmil Ihe tl s iter looked nt Muro as with an iwfil fiscination lncn, nstf be) md it nnd what he knew was wailing for hint lit re, the poor fellow s eves seemid sir lined to some point ftr. fir nw 1) Ah his frantic soul v lulled the hated ills tooldOstlle mnyhnpto his own pias mt home, to the 111 ithtr, Hie sisters, t 1 peisn it girl s thntihed roof home by th vinevnrds, mil Irivens he was trvim. lube, his whule triune writhed, ids lirtnst helved and surged and, Hn ugh he clinched his hands tighter 1111 1 looked old Moro sqnately In the fu-r, his blue crs hi lid and filled ngiln with tirs thit scalded their way thr nigh the ch iparral hltli on his face liki torrents. A doren schrnus for r cne shot thiough my brain fho sikIiIs and thoughts sickened nn I ( mill scarcely reunln hi that cabin for the pity this man roused In me Having recently suddenly gradutted from the editorship of a high gride liu miy perlodhil 01 ' Middle America,' my 1 c lielpful imssesslnns In Ciitxt at lli-t liniment weie 11 small piece of plug tibiciu and 11 $1 llink of llavani bill 1 ipiukly had these undo In rt compact w id I got my knee ngilnst his leg llrntarf-d and luoKed me full in the fue l hand wis 011 the low Iron division rill bitwecn the seats nnd it tuuih d his God knows a soldier a liu min s) mpathy to a soldier In some subtle wiy swept from my heart to his in that touch lis- clinched hand relixednud turtitd. the tulni was next mint. Uur hands el unecl, and Ihere was n quick piesstire Ue were born thuusaiius of miles opait Ind never met until that instant in-stant would never ngil 1 meet unless In eternity, but we knew more of nch oilier in ttiat one moment than many lifetime, icquaintances HiKin tin irrry-boal bumped against the Haiatiiwlnrtes llirougli Ihe il ttiraml clamor and cruwdt, the dcsirter was shoved and siher proddul tu tMe I lazi tie ll San Carlos, hurried into a viitona, alongside which were two 111 mnted guards, and driven rapidly iwny 1 could not work that da), nnd wandering along the wills of 1 a I'uiitn, restless, heartsick, and with the white foe of tint desperate Ifecvcr I dure me. At 4 o'clock just neross the narrow harbor entrance were heard some ominous drum bells On the little pi 11 1 Just ov cr the sea on the heights nt Moro tin-re wer-t movements move-ments ol small -quads of soldiery We could see all tl is pin nly from Ul I'tiut 1 1 feared what Unit ul, could not bear il, and hurried awa Just as 1 reached theod lloquetc walls tncrew is 11 sound of musketry at Moro. 1 looked across the channel and siw Ihe smoke front Ihcir pieces well nigh enfolding them alt. Hut I saw through and through that cloud one face sealed 11 J , t when some old fish wives 01 . 1 t ' walls near, ctosslng then; v il it w ere an old habit ami for hi ions I lailly muttered "Ll d 1 , 1 1 1 desular ' At ever) little stain 11 11 Irehntl, from Galw i j or 1 ralee, en tw n J from Dublin or Wexlurd, we ml nnd along the lines converging 1 or inwards Miiluw, nnd thence to e oik m I eyed ' conveying" parties tnav I e sun waiting wait-ing for the last embrice Inud pressuio or glimpse, or the deputing emigrant lor America, nnd if )on w r 111 Irelind and would tide in the Uur 1 lass" car rhgcsns 1 du, nnd could-. 1 each little coiiipiilment packed wnli irom twenty to thirty of these tmh,i nis on their way toe-orlc or Ljuceniti 1 ou would for the first lime in jour hie realist; the woe of those who go, to an talent tint jou would have more cumpission lor those who come And then at Halfway ai Illackpool nt lHariiei.oiiscrainbli Hi he gtrcrew whoekeullellhoodfroini 1 1 )sterlcal, lender hcarltd and Mini 1 folk who are lounil on every one of in trams deputing de-puting Legless piptrs 1 Ipc mint pa triotie airs, olind hddi set nil the breasts iieivinganelejt we ping from their tender Irish nielod while blind minstrels roir, "The I ip mil the Shamrock of Ould Irclu Pennies 1 1111 into thslr cups and h us like "drop ripe wheat shiken In ihe wind lluoughlhls luilbriims misery all nre sir lining their tear eliiiim d sight forn 1 1st look nt the irni val s in I nestling liomen of Ireland a temh r uith Suddenly the din of ll i erolc mill slrct music Is almost lr wned In the thunder of tho train m I ng through the long tunnel. Irelni I In ned Ire tiud, is for the first tlm 1 1 Ued uut uf sight. The minor coi Is I the pipes nnd fiddles are no miiih i r the resist less waitings niw. Sobs n ns groin, and pitiful exclamation ' deiirment swiliiiilosuchntouchi i 1 dgrewsome imseitre ns jour ears 1 ver before heard In ilhsli jou arc in th I lit nrain, and here1, hill wa) up I 1 1 He heights of Ihe bentlifiil cllj of L k, in n p mile-monlumaiid mile-monlumaiid hubbub inl ml thchilf 1 thousind tortured souls u shunted out 01 tlielr vile pens, shunted mt , other vile pens nnd whirled nwi) to miicnstown, amid merciless robbers an 1 murderous "runners," to await pi V ij, inlnrodd tng Into the great ste m t holds, and i-nib.ii king Inutilities wl ih aien cruel blight upon the civilK m f uur time. There nre two of tin si unds of the culy I nglisli morning h h h uint me with pirslstenl pltooiiMn s -so ling havu I heird them mil hrooled over their a id suggcsllteniss tint In whatever what-ever country I Inppen t . 1 w indenng, and however leaden nn tu my slum ber, I am certain to nw ik rial tin hour to hear their grcwsoi hoes across the land or sea Tlesca e the clatter elattir.clitter of the hob lulled shoes of Miousinds ol factorj hands on their wi) to their dally toil and the hacking, Kliistline. coughing of hundreds among Hum In nil ling ILsh towns and cities wh 11 tiding nt nny public hosteli), sou tint hear the first of this nt four o cloi k 111 tho morning morn-ing A quick, sharp n g ng 1 f the hob mils on tne pivcntcut I one or two, or n group uf hilf 1 dozen of these toilers will form the prelude I lien for a few moments nil will b still Agilu in-crcised in-crcised clatter by larger squids, nnd more pronounced coughing Soon ihe belting of their fret will grow into almost al-most a roar. Ily fivi 0 clock the soun deafening. An army in del at era t tic ro id could make no gn at din If von will 1i ten now sou m v dis tingiush all the tnainrs mil minors Thirds Ihe S( teething of the -.win Ine. pulls, the hilling mil stiimhl 1 c 1 1 the feeble, the popping soun 1 1 mvriad jilpe puffings tlie soddi it snluti ind"en tenllous n-iolnders of ncqii ilutaiices th" shtlll blackguarding of vixens, Ihe liquid tones of maidens and rhlld tn Hit shuffling wheeling uf the old the a most lurking coughing of so ninny telling that the term of the shvlsh Hn Is set nnd In mil Huougli nil the pitiful hub bub Is the sure revelation of the propul ske fneof tlrend nml fear linked wild the lagging of weikness and want Out there in ihe dink ilalk or the mist) gray of the early morning in these sounds a dreadful story Is told If you love Amerlrt jou will brood over these sounds, aslhavu done, nnd fervcnlly Cr tv that our towns and cities are not to ecome like these thai the lew miy br rich and glad and the many slavish and sad. I'lMIAK I W'MsEMAN |
