Show I Jl lM MOM OD J AJ fi firt I rt CAN N oj t OF 11 III NEW VORK f. f l tz I W CR v CREATOR CA TO R 0 OF F I C i AME AMERICAN RICAN FASHIONS 6 r.- r. J- J r t t J 8 1 p 1 f S 3 b C 0 1 9 I j Tm t H i 1 4 i i 6 I 7 i 0 4 I j I i I h. h i ft iff i I I ff p hi f i t hi A t 2 i J I y C ui is always commendable at and advisable whenever it is consistent with smartness but that mark you does not always happen To Too often it is c confounded with mediocrity or ort orl at least is i. very apt to lead to it and exa 2 exaggeration exa on the other hand hands handt is s too often misinterpreted to mean mean wn what t is is smart It is a 3 ty we have no more moro satisfactory equivalent for the French II chic chic than this localism smart smart but since we have not I proceed to say that the hats I have selected for illustration this week are conservative in shape and trimming trimmin and yet obviously smart and nd all without so much m muchas as a hint of undue emph emphasis sis anywhere They may be considered representative of the prevailing fashion in street headgear if if indeed it is possible le to represent a season that must be ch characterized char r as capricious So much even eo so much more than II usual depends upon the way ay a 3 hat is I adjusted upon the head now whether i it is altogether successful that at first it hardly seems worth white while them The Thern nc new hats arc are I purely individual l yet the majority of II them bv by a a. twist or a a. turn to right or left toward the back or front by br tilt- tilt inC ine them to effect a little litHe wider angle with mth the face or a trIfle less of a one may be coaxed into becomingness however how how- I ever hopeless the effort seemed at first I r i n noticed this particularly with these thes models I I. I have had sketched for you Take the first one It is a charming thing thine of purple hemp fa faced l witH the new printed chiffon in beautiful ful hare bar rose and purple colorings colorings' that cast a pretty glow over the features above which it is worn Shot Shot- tat tat- feta ribbon with its Wedges edges d es purple fringed ed is drap draped d across the mound shaped crown crown and there thero is a stiff upstanding upstanding up up- standing cluster of cens cerise lilacs and nd shaded red and purple tulips all going e eto to make a most artistic frame for the face lace liD TiD this hat which is called by the h e euphonious name of purple lotus purple otus toone to toone one ono side if you ou please or Ju just dust t a bitto bitto bit bitto to the other and lol does it no not appear appear ap ap- ap pear Dear a a different model Now tl tilt tut lt t 1 it backward I There No no not o too much So Ah Ab again do you not perceive per per- ee it is another hat apparently Positively there is neither back nor front line lino for this years Tears hat l you ou yourself choose to invest est it with that significance e. e No o little white or or black thread cross ss is needed to point out to voa you the particular section of the brim that thit should come just over the nose You adjust it to suit you OU andou and you ou wear it so In my second model is shown a large largo flat black Milan straw rolled u up sharply at the brim with clusters of small gold cold colored ostrich feathers en en- wreathing the crown Three prince of Wales Vales feathers branch up from the brim just where it turns up narrowly at tho center front which is marked by bya a straight line bow of black velvet elvet ribbon an inch wide This Tills model the Evening Star as it has been dubbed is one of the few that has to bo be worn rather fixedly r in orie one position That is it is designed to sit squarely upon the head with the bow directly in front The hat has nevertheless nev neve enough h of careless grace a about bou tit it to give eive ve it II i touches of coquetry co co- co without which no bat is is a suc sue c cess ce s. s I Iam am carrying out this identical mod el ci in in other color combinations White cnn crin I am am using with the same gold sold feathers and the same black v velvet I b bow w. w In Iu all white except for a n rose I in place of the tho bow I have evolved an other and in II old old blue with lighter blue feathers that still hint of brown and with a darker blue bow still an an- other Black and white and white and black I intend to employ later on in the same wa way The new Joseph sailor I am sure you ou will all an like It is youthful o looking looking look look- l ing but di dignified and it too is de designed designed de- de sl signed ed to be worn at any an angle le desired desired de de- de sired or that is deemed most mot becoming become becom- becom ing althou although h tho uniformity of its brim suggests that it might best be worn straight atop the coif or J perhaps erha s pulled down a bit but evenly aUar all aU ar around nd However Howo your mirror willQui will Qui ciui quickly kly settle that matter for y you u u. u The original hat from which the sketch was made is corn colored Milan f fa faced ed edwith edwith with black sat satin n. n A few strands of numida are arc caught to tho the edge of the brim and follow fonow it alon along the side There ia is is no band about the the crown crown but its edges are rolled over and the top sunk into it it Sailor shapes shap-es are rife Many of them thorn almost lose loso sight Bight of the original contour while certain others appear to be very very ven near reproductions of those first sailors that were purchasable ablo only in the mens men's departments The Tho fourth hat bat you will win notice is ia decidedly jaunty not to say rakish It was designed expressly for M Miss Mario Doro and by her At least she sho evolved it from another model to au suggest est as I she said her beloved Oliver liver Twist In I which sho she is still playing K at the tho Em m pire And so ISO it does It is tremendously tremendously I fetching atop Miss Doros Doro's pretty head and why it should au suggest est the little charity yonn youngster lter none of us who ho stood about when Miss Doro was arranging ar as- ranging about her street bat hat could explain explain ex ex- ex plain yet we Wc easily recognized that there here was wae a 0 reason and that it did To continue however tho the hat hat the the one one Miss Doro Bore is wearing not on the stage of course course is i soft p pliable lable black Milan with just two or three fronds fronds' of Paradiso Para Para- diso disc thrust through h the brim which Is 18 turned up abruptly a across era lIS the face leaving sharp corners at tho the aide sides II The same model i is going oin to be reproduced for the same Bame young woman in iii white with a scarlet t brush bruah in place of the paradise and this this' will win be for wear with linen shirt suits this summer I Ishall Ishall Ishan shall shan also alo make mako it up in black with a scarlet brim facing The Tho fifth and last of ot the models shown hero here is a black Milan a again ain with crown and top facin lacing facing of white French crepe which is being used e ex and find in in various ways ay for ox- ox elusive cluse clus e hats bats Tho The shape called Ma uMa non f is quite suitable either for dress dressor or tailored wear and I I mi might bt add that it lends itself to development in taffeta tat tat- feta a as well as straw It seems only natural that the u shepherdess shepherdess shep hat should be returned to us just at this time so in keening is it with the trend fashion i is taking It Itis Itis Itis is far more more than ever which certainly is saying a great deal for it and without lo losing ing its identity it is being treated to many varieties of trimming trimmin methods In the workroom at this moment there are two shepherdesses J into each of which taffeta has been made to figure unrestrictedly One of them is isa isa isa a fine n J leghorn for leghorn is used both for dress and outing with a great bow of China blue velvet swung diagonally across across one side of the crown the tips tits of the loops touching the edge dge of the toe brim Then the brim underneath is swathed with black chiffon dotted at Rt I re regular intervals with full blown wile wild roses rosos Th The roses thou though h of course courM coursO held secure securely have bave the appearance of being beine ready to drop out one by one one one- another expression of careless grace The other model to which I refer reter is h- h s- s what do 10 you think think yellow entirely in iii yellow and rich d daffodil shade o of yellow at that Th The brim is straw faced with taffeta and there is a Tarn Tam 0 o crown of the taffeta while cau caught bt to the center top of the crown so that it falls dir directly across it to toone toone toone one side and has its t tip p curlin curling over ove er erthe the brim is ig a French ostrich plume Yellow is il extremely good this year and I myself am doing more with it I think I ma may say than with any other othe color for its s possibilities are limitless as on one only finds out upon experimenting meriting with it But I shall shan dwell more moro at len length h upon this subject of ot color in in another article artile |