Show War Production Board Tells ells How Iov to Dress for Victory i 1 Waste Eliminated Eliminate Through Freezing of Current Styles Men 1 and women designers and manufacturers seem to have agreed already that the War Production boards board's orders orders orders or or- ders covering the use of materials materials materials ma ma- in the manufacture of clothing arc are not so bad The average citizen in wartime will bear boar no resemblance whatever to the pitiably clothed figure pictured in re- re cent cartoons cartoons The changes w will not be noticeable for a awhile 1 while as they do not affect the garments already manufactured manufactured manufactured for spring and summer wear And even in the fa fall they will vill not offer any great departure from present fashions fashions fashions fash fash- ions as drastic style is one of the things the is most eager coger to avoid The purpose of freezing current styles is to eliminate waste both bath by cutting down the amount of material used and by discouraging the tendency tendency tendency ten ten- dency to discard clothes that are not the latest style Our country's needs will set the styles from now on an anit and H it will be patriotic to conform to them But Dut dont don't throw away awny that dress just because It has pockets or pleats Wear it out And dont don't rush to the stores and do panic shopping There will be enough for everyone if no one takes more than his share Hoarding wool or silk is as bad as hoarding sU sugar ar or rubber Simplification of styles and colors colors col cob ors of nf women's sweaters and other garments worn during the First World war reduced the quantity of wool used In these textiles textiles tex tex- tiles tHe by third one enough h to provide pro pro- vide Ide cloth for uniforms Also eliminated during that era were wre styles of ot rubber foot foot- wear Shoe colors were reduced from an approximate hundred to toony only ony three black white and a II single le shade of tan Result A saving savinI In leather dyes boxes shipping space labor and trans Through conservation and prevention prevention tion measures the order is expected on po Bib the ot of at least 15 per cent more garments out of the same yardage Some Somo conception conception conception con con- of economies economics may be obtained from the fact that the I elimination of cuffs from some pairs of at trousers will make available enough nough wool cloth to manufacture suits Men Ien Affected Least Men and women alike ore are affected by the orders but the men will probably feel the pinch a little little little lit lit- tle less as their styles have never been subject to as radical changes as have the The new trend merely keeps them in line with the more conservative styles of at past years Men in wartime will wear suits stripped of at patch pockets fancy bocks hacks belts and end pleats pi oats The absence absence ab- ab sence of ot cuffs culls on the trousers will witt willbe willbe be no more noticeable than on military mili mii tary tars uniforms while restrictions on width will affect only the extra wide trouser styles Shortening of ot the InseAm will not result In shorter trousers but will account merely for forthe forthe forthe the three inches ordinarily used in making cuffs culls Trousers usually are arc delivered from tram the manufacturer to the retailer without culls cuffs and ore are finished fin fin- l hed for the c customer stomer after pur pur- chase The order forbids any person to tailor cuffs culls upon trousers and this prohibition involving severe severe severe se se- vere penalties applies nil all the way from the manufacturer retailer and custom tailor to the consumers consumer's wife This means that many trousers before the order went Into effect effect ef ef- feel will be long enough to permit cuffs Other trousers made under the new regulations still may possess possess pos pos- sess less enough yardage yorda c for tor cults cuffs due to variations in customers sizes Lizes The law expressly prohibits any such use of the extra material Arrangements Arrangements Arrange Arrange- ments have hove been made for the American Red Hed Cross to act as a n centra central central cen cen- tra clearing agency receiving the wool clips obtained from cutting oil ofT the culT cuff material and returning i ithem them for reprocessing From Irom the i trousers now on hand material material ma ma- maI I for suits could be obtained ob- ob In this way according to the Listed The consumers consumer's wife on the other hand will be left more or less free freeto freeto freeto to use her own judgment when she makes males clothes for herself So far for farho farno forno ho no no restrictions have been placed on pattern makers Women too will willbe willbe be be free to wear what they can cnn buy It will not be necessary for them to take the complete list of or restrictions restrictions restrictions re re- with them when purchasing ing apparel for whatever is for sale In the stores is patriotic to buy The stores and the manufacturers are arc responsible for compliance Women are watching without a tear as frills and furbelows ore are slashed from the fashion picture Deprived of voluminous skirts billowing billowing bit bil bil- bil lowing sleeves flowing drapes and most of or the little feminine touches so dear to their hearts they are ready to wear and to enjoy wearing swearing fashions that arc are low in priorities hl high h in patriotism Inasmuch as the decreed streamlined simplicity is not just justa justn a n mere style note but a n federal law the American womans woman's victory wardrobe will Include the U following essential restrictions on all garments garments gar gar- ments producing fashions to wear as a n badge of ot honor Dresses manufactured after April 0 9 I cannot be sold with a II Jacket bolero bolero bo bo- lero cape coat or at a unit price No double material yokes No fabrics which have been reduced reduced reduced re re- re- re from normal width or length by over all tucking shirring slurring pleating pleating pleat pleat- in ing except for minor trimmings InterlininGs InterlininG's containing any virgin In wool or reprocessed wool cannot be woven WO after April 9 No wool evening c wraps Plaid laid sleeves cannot be cut on the bias No dress sleeves wider than 14 Inches in circumference for a size 16 proportionate sleeve measurements measurements measure measure- ments for other sizes No skirts overskirts or aprons for evening evening eve eve- ning dresses t z tick w t c l l y 1 The dress to the left in the thc above c Illustration does dues not cOl conform orm to the thC specifications ordered by the War iVar board It Is out for the duration The dress to the right with Its cu less sleeves Ite 1 narrow belt 2 and only slightly shirred waistline 3 Is in is accordance with the specifications Under the new ruling normal fullness Is permissible but not n t over all tucking or shirring or any an other unnecessary use of ot material in trimming Evelyn Carolls Caroll's The Army Array and Navy Have It written for Charm magazine tells very simply simply sim ply the feminine contributions to the cause caURe The silk that once was two- two thread hose that once was wu your girdle The zipper that used to connect con con- fleet nert your clothes Cannot jump priorities' priorities hurdle Peroxide that once made mode your tresses gold cold Curlers that made mode them wavy Hairpins that had such a good strong hold Now go co to the army and navy Lipstick cases arc are ammunition ammunition tion Corset stays travel with tanks Not a n single le complaint nor suspicion Of hoarders will damage our ranks No culTs culls patch pockets flaps aps or belts bells cm on slacks Macks No hoods or with wilts blouses Only one patch pocket per blouse In a n series of amendments to the original order covering women's clothes WP has decreed the following followIng following follow follow- ing The top of a two-piece two dress is required to conform with the length restriction of jackets The prohibition against culls cuffs on slacks is extended to riding breeches jodhpurs ski pants play pIny suits overalls overalls over over- alls nils and coveralls A jacket may have a n two-piece two back with a n belt I attached providing the belt bell is stitched on in such a way that there is not more than a half inch overlay of wool cloth on wool cloth at the upper end and the lower side of the belt In the original order a abelt abelt abelt belt was not permitted on a n wool jacket The maximum sweep for a size 10 suit skirt is 78 inches with corresponding sweeps for different Terent sizes Bridal gowns owns maternity dresses burial gowns and robes and vestments vestments vest vest- ments as required by the rules of religious orders arc not subject to any style or measurement curtailment curtail curtail- ment Special exemption Is granted to persons of abnormal sizes Patch pockets are prohibited when they involve woolen garments that thatIs thatis is placing woolen on woolen On a n arayon arayon rayon or silk garment patch pockets arc are permissible All culTs culls are prohibited prohibited prohibited pro pro- on woolen garments Clothes for l Fall all The order will not affect clothes for this spring and summer most of at which are made already Restrictions Restrictions Restrictions on woolen garments will apply to the production of most fall and winter garments Restrictions on cotton rayon anti other materials do donot donot donot not become effective until Ju June c 19 18 when summer clothes production should be ended Restrictions on existing retailers' retailers stocks of at ensembles ensembles ensembles bles will go into effect August 17 17 Unlike the mens men's conservation order which relates to wool only Limitation Limitation Limitation Limita Limita- tion Order 85 as the Will women's apparel restrictions are ro technically known applies to all except transparent transparent trans trans- parent fabrics This is how tho the average man will look when manufacturers begin to turn out the wartime styles in quantity quantity quantity quan quan- probably by next fall Some stores already are carrying mens men's wear embodying certain of these changes Single-breasted Single topcoats and overcoats overcoats over over- coats will be from two to four tour inches shorter than present mod models Is Also shortened will twill be the double- double breasted styles but but which use wool anI only on one side are arc not subject to the simplification or or- der Overcoats will be less full contributing buting to the effect of simple tailoring that well well dressed dressed men have always favored Suits and Overcoats O He lie will wear conservatively cut suits and coats made of softer but serviceable fabrics fob fab woven WO from larger quantities of reused or 01 reprocessed wool cotton cotton cot cot- ton and rayon mixtures Shirts Iris His shirts will tend to be lighter in color but the they will be among the th last to feel fee the chlorine shortage shortage sheets sheets pillowcases and underwear of unbleached cotton will twill appear long before white shirts take on all a It yellowish tinge Socks The average mans man's socks may be of cotton or 01 rayon instead of wool or silk und nod he will select them U from a n narrower range of at colors colors colors col col- ors and patterns Hats His hat mn may be the felt he has worn before but fur tur and wool felt mixtures probably will be more common During the summer he may sport one of ot the straw substitutes substitutes sub sub- visca cellophane or celta- celta fal tal A Panama from Ecuador will still be available in the higher price brackets Shoes Ills His shoes will wilt be conservative con can in style and will not show oil oft the thick soles expensive leathers leathers leath leath- leathers ers and color varieties of peacetime peace peace- time The restrictions on both mens men's and women's clothes are not so drastic as they the may seem at first glance A wide nation-wide survey found that the American woman wears ears a jacket today that varies from 27 inches in length The e order or der strikes a medium of 25 21 inches Pleats in skirts are arc permitted provided provided provided pro pro- vided the quantity of ot material used i in the skirt comes within the re re- re- re i That is if 11 a n woman does i not care core to have a skirt as full lull at as I permitted under the order she nHI may mayuse use up the difference in m p pats t ats |