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Show 4 : 1 . "?g sjj, " ? I I Parisian Modes In the Transition Staoe I . & H 1 b n'i'ABlS, Sept- 24.-Tho gay capl-NbS capl-NbS tal was thrown into a flutter iratgW f genulno excitement thla 5 ffeek when tlio cabs appeared Stn i tho boulevards and avenues f titrT yith tho new taxamcter. Thla , TL.teumont. 11 13 hopec1, wlU put 1' to tho uncomfortable disputes aS1' iionBtantly arise between the toj1 Lj his fare, A dial Indicates J f amount due tho driver and SEU traveled. tu to this Piece of mechanism, erS; lm accepts tho equivalent for 'Els J (tidlcatel on the dial without So' protest, and, more wonder-.v wonder-.v Hi f3WV;. 4, nflema entirely sat- th- cab proprietors only do-pr do-pr cent of the earnings, leav- . the cabman. wd Prix Municipal Is consld-j!?nal consld-j!?nal for "society's return to 1 at present shooting: partlea itog. A revolution has taken d you must know that tho rldenne is very keen on sports L Still, elegant mondaines llnta and moors to pay hux-s hux-s to town to interview their trs; consequently tho Rue de s quite bright and attractive iant afternoons. After all, icvcr wholly deserted; it is at ' halting place for travelers hnpy hunting ground of all i the matter of clothes, ileliers one constantly hears a rittlng that Monsieur W. give thin? really smart for the au-jaiethlng au-jaiethlng that I shall not see every American I meet," surely triumph in this appeal tachwoman from the sartorial ke chic Amcrlcaine, which she s quite up to her own stand-e stand-e best gowned women the j now know that the exclu-) exclu-) a toilet lies in the perfec-ut, perfec-ut, which, unliko trimmings "jlais, It is impossible to copy. TtfJ 4 lhe ParIslenne come3 forth ji iclth very Blmply dressed. Every i! ttlres the stunning cut of her Hj skirts, and the general pub-nfcers pub-nfcers how It is that there is ifcjto copy. The tactics of the aT' rtbe are not difficult to appre-( appre-( kfce has few toilets at a time, iii are put up by an artist, for jhjno faith In the small dress-' dress-' te'vea for the less ambitious jj tb,jouss and negligees which she JJj ;l fcjp trust to her maid, letting the ec"4 twelve build her street and TIM brncs costumes- She also knows HUlPJti her couturier that the first liiaioveltles are always overtrlm-;hfll4(; overtrlm-;hfll4(; mire worn by strangers within ywrttat the gates of Paris. rt4ljpt-Ty of novelties, many startling i' rJfofo are on the horizon of the , JplfjiVorld. Not the least of them lability of the return of the JlpEalhat cry of wolf which annu-flPft.ti-'F society. Certainly a sem-yUi sem-yUi tcthe thing Is quite visible In iyhuand shape of trimming put .VKSJ tsrd skirts made In many of the . h (j luses. We are slowly, but h e-7.tJ3-oachlng the crinoline vogue i,,tf empire minus the hoop, and . t 4nrlals now employed were not of so Bupplo a naturo tho effect would be heightened. The new close fitted, pointed bodices are delightfully becoming when well cut, but are an Impossible style for the inexperienced hand. The material for such a waist Is arranged over a tight fitted lining and gathered upward, crossing tho bodice In Irregular folds. This fullness runs up In some models to an empiecement of lace or passementerie, passemen-terie, while on others tho crossed gatherings gath-erings finish below the bust, giving somewhat tho effect of a high corselet. Most of these cross gathered walsto have tucked up. sleeves that end at the from the shoulders is a command from Paquln, and I am more and more convinced con-vinced that he Is the safest authority to whom to pin onc'3 faith. It is really amusing, the rivalries in tho couturier kingdom, for while one houso ia strenuously advocating puffed slcevcB another Is Just as stanch . In adhering to graceful sloping shoulders, allowing tho putt to start from Just above the elbow, which style Is certainly cer-tainly more in harmony with tho present pres-ent movement of the chapeau. One point upon which all the artists agree Is that the sleeve fullness must tormt-nato tormt-nato Just below 1 the elbow. Another I PARISIAN AUTUMN WALKING GOWNS. elbow with an almost skin tight cuff effect- There is a tendency to introduce intro-duce the pelerine with tho glgot manche, which form of sleeve, with its voluminous gathers at tho top, hold3 out the shoulder draperies to the very best advantage. That all cloevo models mod-els shall be gathered exceedingly full causo of alarm In the changing mode3 is tho decadence of tho straight front corset. Tho woman with too, too solid flesh is most interested In this development, devel-opment, for tho blessed straight fronts have brought her quite In lino with her svelte and graceful rival. There la no fear of femininity doing away with the straight front model at present. Wo aro simply In our corseting going to strike a more sensible medium which will define the waist more, while ellml- natlng what has boen called our "bread basket" with rather less severity. sever-ity. The straight front stays have been tho means of making lots of women wo-men buckle to the task of a physical reform, and the latest departure In this line is the skipping oxcrclse to bring about a trim and sylphlike figure. Tho Duchesso d'Uzos, the uncrowned queen of Parisian society, has given a skipping luncheon where a ropo skipping skip-ping contest took place for a half hour ! beforo tho function of the hour began. Tho ropes themselves were formed ofi exquisite silken cords, and tho handles were very original In design and finish. Needloas to say that a skipping teas and luncheons will now bo a winter fad In the Ville Lumlere. The new materials are fascinating. Tho broadcloths are softer and more supple than ever, and a lovely new chiffon variety Is abroad. Then there Ih among tho black fabrics an amazon cloth that Is very smart. It comes with an embroidered border somewhat resembling re-sembling broderlc anglnl.ie. Another beautiful material Included In the season's sea-son's novelties is a silk embroidered corduroy in different spots and designs. Silk Is to have a great vogue thl3 winter, and It adapts Itself perfectly to tho boulllonnes and old fashioned circular cir-cular and straight quillings and pipings pip-ings which trim so many of the stunning stun-ning creations, The old time moire an tique Is with us again, and tho peau do sole, another silk favorite of yore, Is rovlved. Satin la to mako the gown de ceremonlc, and a charming taffeta 'broche adorned with little embroidered satin flowers Is a novel silk of the season. sea-son. This silk Is particularly fetching In navy blue with tiny satin flowers In green and white or in ollvo green and brpwn carried out in the samo decorative deco-rative design in black and white. BIs- . cult colored cloth, white cloth and heather tweed are the materials In which tho swagger1 Parlslennc Is having her first fall frocks developed. The covert cloth coat and skirt made perfectly plain, with tho long tight fitting fit-ting coat strapped, are considered very smart. There ia a tornado wavo of leather sweeping over us, and the question is whether we will bo bowled over by it completely. Meanwhile let us enjoy this kid conviction, especially that of tho undressed gulse suede. A stunning stun-ning cray suedo coat of the close fitting fit-ting cult has its collar and cuff facings fac-ings of dull orange cloth. "With less of tho bizarre about It Is another Jacket of French gray cloth strapped with gray oUedc, tho skirt evolved from tho same materials. This dress symphony concludes with a round shaped hat with upturned brim of squash gray felt, the orange note being struck by tho tall feather of a bird not familiar to the average ornithologist. "While upon the subject of gray gowns, a charming afternoon frock la that of smoke colored face cloth, the skirt plaited about tho waist and the hem trimming carried out by a boull-lonne boull-lonne of the cloth taken up In Infinitesimal Infinites-imal tucks to form a band edged with narrow quillings. The bodice has an empiecement of point de vcnlse which extends over the puffed sleeves and meets a long, tight cuff of the same lace. A basqued effect and girdle are of gTocn velvet. The boat shaped cha peau Is of green beaver trimmed with several pale gray feathers. There have been soveral remarkablo styles attempted by a few millinery artists renowned for their originality, but it remains for Mme. La Parlslcnno to settle whether she can adapt her face, figure an,d colffuro to the now styles. As It has been since tho first chapeau season recorded, there will be worn both the Hmall and large styles of headgear. Crowns aro, as a rule, to be high, and even on the new trlcorncs this featuro Is accentuated. Many of the smaller toques are composed of plaited chenille, and thero Is chenille embroidery on colored net used as a decoration on some of tho draped velvet toques of the broad crowned beret shape. Mousseline mingled with narrow nar-row strappings of fur I3 a combination on the latest models. Green promises to reappear, but not in the bright emerald em-erald tone so persistently worn lately, tho new nuanco being of tho bronze tinge. Reseda tones and bronze green mingled with golden brown are noticeable noticea-ble on many of the most becoming novelties, nov-elties, and shaded velvet used In con-Junction con-Junction with shaded plumes is quite an original color scheme. Small fur trlcornes in chinchilla, pony skin and sable are made to match coats of this pelt, Thoy have a coquettish arrangement of tips curlfng over the hair at tho left side. In order that the gowns belonging to the day3 of the fascinating though unfortunate un-fortunate queen of Louis XVI. of France may bo In these later times true to the days of old, curls have been added add-ed to tho coiffure. In fact, so alluring are these bcautlflera that In all kinds of costumes my lady will walk abroad wearing several short, thick curls nes- t M n n- nmnnrr fVi !-.. rt 1 1 ' i 0 .Q WWJJ uur iitur or dangling In a pretty riot from a higher arrangement of tresses. In short, curls are the latest coiffure cult, CATHERINE TALBOT. |