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Show .. i " ' " ' f i IWIiT TWO, f Sfrf 4V (A jT td Women Read , ' , ; Pages 9 to i2 v igjjlf; $11 'J$$m& &IWM Ih r.zr' . VOLUME fi. ' SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 18S2. " T NUMBER 366. s k. y''''' a " To miss the resent opportunity to see the Beau ifiil I ' . New Goods we have received in 1 ' every depaitnent. I Dress GoodsX m mm KN0W l- - fe felfefe that we have the Largest and Best Stock of Cloaks and Wraps Oo Io lo Boots and Shoes for Ladies, Gents, Misses and Children in the City. in the very Latest Styles. : OYER 100,000 FAIRS TO SELECT FROM y AATT T vT T") . n: and in Styles to suit all-Taste- s. . StyM aid Gill Goads li Lit Prices. v .u. G. WEBBER, Superintendent. 2. G. VI. X. W' H- - ROWE Asst SuperintenderX Interests and Fancies of Woman. with plaid surab and is finished at the with an top original coLar cut straight from the neck without darts, which gives it quite a novel appearance. ' It is" generally made IeiIther of watered silk or velvet. The Henri cape is made of black velvet, of light fab-rication, lined with black satin, the seams covered witli jetted guimp. Another elabor- ate cape is made of pure velvet or peau de soie, partly veiled with a second cape of old cream-colore- d guipure. This model, more dressy than the preceding ones, Is adapted for carriage wear and afternoon visits. Loolt Oat for Petticoats. The elaboration in petticoats has, it is to be presumed, reached its height They now rank equally with, if not , almost before gow-n-s in importance. They are made in-differently of plain, pekined and watered silk with flounces of the material or of lace and sometimes of both, a ruche of color ap-pearing at the edge of the skirt. Some times the lace flounce forms transparency over a pale color when the petticoat itself is-o-stripped or black 6ilk. A very pretty one is of soft black satin strewn with a desirn in' pink and blue and flounced with black lace over a pale blue or pink hem, headed by a triple row of baby ribbon of all the 6hades, and showing below the iace flounce pinked out frills of the three colors. The ' rage of these colored petticoats is due, no doubt, to the much-abuse- d but fashionable length of skirt which requires to be held up. purpose of traveling mantles, waterproofs and dnst cloaks, always play an important part in a ladies' outnt. Every sort of mate-rial may Ihj found amour the impregnated stuff'. Quite p.iiiu, with inrrow stripes, neutral tints nml almost every other color suitable for the purpose; gloria, with its silky srloss attracts many auinin--r then a very tine cotton texture which is certainly cheaper, is liked by thoe lond of a chanse. Fine woolen materials, with a very small check, are epccilly pretty, with the advan-tage of extreme usefulness. Hats and Hr.idqear. Hats are worn large and of moderate size, all more or less and the toque seems to be as great a favorite as ever. As to eapots, they are smaller than ever and will soon .become invisible. One of the most original shapes extant is that known as the Pifferaro, which is entirely of jet adorned with a wreath of jetted folkige, and long jetted antennae curling over the hrt from the back. - Hat crowns formed of pnle green moss, and with brims of maiden fern are among gowns are decorated cither with elegant black silk applique work or Russian net, in Vandyke points. Writing of evening gowns, a pretty and smart dinner dress is made of ky-blu- e Pekin. The skirt is quite plain, with very long train, the bodice cut square in front, with a Marie Antoinet'c tiehu of blue mousseline de soie over it. The 6leevcs end at the elbow with a falling flounce of blue mousseline de soie, while the sash i of apple-gree- n ribbon with a large mass of loops and ends on the left side. Directly from French authority comes the word that the length of street skirts is not to be wholly changed, but that for the autumn season the trained portion is considerably diminished, ihe back part will still rest upon the ground, but its trailing inches of the past season will be abbreviated. Other-wise, no change for the present is to be chronicled regarding this portion of dress. Skirts will still be gored, carefully fitted to the figure, and, in most cases, silk lined. It A house gown of white Henrietta is trimmed about the foot of the skirt with a thick ruchiug of rabelled ereen and black silk, through the middle of which is run a heavy crold cord; the revers, 6ieeves and corselet are of mo6S green velvet, trimmed with black and green ribbon, and the cor-sage was fastened with three full rosettes of gold cord and lace. Evening dresses for young married and unmaried ladies are made up in nearly the same styles. The principal difference lies in the choice of material employed, these being rich, heavy silk, satiu and brocade with long trains for young matrons, and light transparent crepons', bengalines, etc., cut with demi-train- s for young maidens. Ribbons are in the full blush of their tri-umph; they fasten up the short, puffed sleeves, are set high upon the shoulders of irowns. riDnled in a cascade of loons down being universally adopted; it is, however, a youthful fashion, and that is an important consideration. The newest cloth jackets for walking are made now with very full sleeves and short tight cuffs, em-broidered above to match the stripe on the reverse fronts; for short lace jackets 'and bodices, epaulette, mitten, or bell sieves are most admired, sleeves for flower shows, races and visiting, and some fashionable walking gowns are made with a pretty deep puff and long tight cuffs. Cheviot suitings in mixed gray, shot with bourette stripes of blue, piuk or red, are just the thing for early autumn wear. Golden brown, fancy wools, with a shaggy surface, are warm and comfortable looking for cool days. As they are used before the necessity for wraps occur, they look best fashioned with a coat of some kind; they may be worn with a shirt or closed at the throat, and simply fastened with flat tailor buttons; the edges of the coat' and basque are machine stitched. A pretty velvet evening bodice is made slightly open at the throat, with elbow sleeves also slightly open. Net or lace sleeves set in full below the velvet sleeve are changed to match various styles and tints of neck. dressing. Lace or folds of chiffon or net are lightly arranged to outline the open-ing of the throat. Crossed folds can also be used to raise the bodice front to any desired height, while the dressy appearance of the yet remains. Lace remains in fashion as much as ever, and is employed in an innumerable number of ways and styles. Particularly admired are flounces of lace, whether wide or narrow, for trimming the edge of skirt, often when narrow in connection with other ornamenta-tions. Lace is much employed, too, for berthes, bretellcs, corselets, small and large collars and little open Eton and Zuave jack-ets, with square or round corners on bodices, jacket trimmings. the novelties noticeable at the summer re-sorts; they are garlanded with wild straw-berries and tufts of meadow grass. Chiffon is wound about the crown of both large and small hats; a length of gauze stuff hangs down the back, and is intended to twist about the neck; a fashion which is becoming and useful, as it protects the throat from sunburn. Tiny capotes of Mack matinee, or point d'eepret, are worn by c'derly and middle-age- d ladies; their 8'jiabrcness finds relief in a bow of pinceau velvet, a cluster of red berries, or a tuft of scarlet geraniums or woodbine. . . Red birds claws, clasp aigrettes, and bunches of ostrich tips. Capes and Coats. Deep capes and three-quart- coats, both CARMEN SYLVA'S IDYL. When a woman succeads in some magnifi-cent intrigue to advance herself from paltri-n-o ss and obscurity to position and power, she is a heroine, a goddess; when she fails of her splendid purpose, ehe is an upstart, an adventuress, says the Illustrated American. If Mademoiselle Helene Vacaresco had net had the mischance to win the love of a ' fickle, faint-hearte-d, princeling who broke ' his solemn pledge to make her his wife, all ' the courts of Europe would today be singing the praises of the most brilliant woman in , the rather stupid circle of continental no bility... But since it has come to pass that Ferdinand, heir presumptive to the throne of Roumania, proved faithless to his plighted troth, every titled gossip in Europe, EVERT SCANDAL-MONGE- R AND CHRONICLER of royal tid-bi- ts has occupied himself with the publication of reminiscences and recitals supposed to smirch the character and im-pugn the temper of the young woman. In default of any episodes reflecting di-rectly on Mile. Vacaresco herself, the lady's numerous enemies have had recourse to the ' history of other members of her family. Her father, we are told, allowed himself to be advanced through his daughter's plead-iu- g favor at the court of Roumania, from a moaest post in the army to the embassy at Brussels, and subsequently to that at Rome. An uncle has so far forgot his dignity as to earn his living as a member of the editorial" staff of the Indcpendance Roumaine. Another uncle, a captain of the luouuted guards of Bucharest, has been known to take too much wine at dinner, just as if that was a distinc-tive and exclusive characteristic of a guards-man who happens to belong to Mile. kin. Then, it has been discovered, there's a first cousin of the lady who evinced an ungallact disregard of the attentions showered upon him by the wife of the Ger-man ambassador to Vienna, with the result that the grand dame in question sought to secure his exclusion from a ballroom where he had come with a beauty whom the am-bassadress chose to consider as a rival. MI.LE; VACAREfC'O'S FOES DIO NOT REST content with dragging forth these ghastly family skeletons, wherewith to frighten her-fro-her ambitious course. Tbey went back some years in her history, and proved, on incontrovertible authority, that the young woman to whom Prince Fer-dinand, the future sovereign of Roumania had offered his heart and hand, had written . poetry. Hut here was a matter which had to be treated very gingerly.' The Roumanians' ow u beloved queen. Carmen Sylva, was a verse-make- r of particularly violent persist-ence. They were an ingenious lot of rascals those court conspirators; they established the fact that while the queen's verses were merely the polite aud commonplace con-ceits, such as any well-bre- d amateur might devise. Mile. Vacaresco's effusions were gen-uine poetry. In proof of this shameful dis-covery, they cite.- the praises that had been bestowed upon her work by such eminent tr.d capable critics as M. Sully Prudiiomtne and Victor Hugo. Besides, have not her "Chnnts d'Aurore" won for.her a I'rize f.om the French academy? . And in-t- il prince Ferdinand had decided to make her his wife, did not all Roumania servants, c ourtiers and people find pride and delight iu her songs and legends of the folk of the .Diiuloviuer valley . Jf the clique whose Interest and care it was to drive the gifted Vacaresco from the court thought to arouse the queen's jeal ousy by the disclosure of the real worth of V t' ' mademoiselle's muse, they were sadly dis-appointed. A PIQUANT 8TOBT IS TOLD of the circumstance that led to the first ac-quaintance between Carmen Sylva and her talented subject. At a picnic at Cape Fer-ret, Mile. Vacaresco, who had already won a reputation for her quickness of idea and facility of rhyme, was asked to write im-promptu verses concerning the company. Ten minutes were allowed her for the work, but in half that time she had ready several stanzas, iretrically perfect and full of hu-mor. Carmen Sylva, who heard of the epi-sode, at once sent for her clever country-woman, and forthwith invited her to become a maid of honor at the Roumanian court. i That her intimate friendship with the queen began at once is shown by a letter to a young woman in Paris, written shortly after her arrival. "1 have not forgotten you," she said, "and I often think of Archacon and our trip to Cape Ferret. My life has changed greatly since then. I am separated from my parents by the afflction of my adorable queen, at whose side I lead a glad, gay and busy existence." Had mademoiselle's favor at the court stopped at t'ue queen, her affairs would have gone along smoothly enough. But beauty such as hers was destined to work trouble. Presently half the men were toasting her charms, and all the women were "roasting" her character, No on9 could say anything definitely damning to Mile. Vacaresco's vir-tue, but it was difficult for the dissolute and drunken idlers in the wondrous palace of the Carpathians to understand that a wo-man of her charms and opportunities should maintain her self-respec- t. Not another woman AT THIS COURT OF GYPSY-LIK- E LICENSE, . with Vacaresco's gifts and temptations, would have delayed to have as many in-trigues in hand as there were days in the month. "Ab, she is flying for higher game," ran the comment and the gossip when the king's heir, Prince Ferdinand, began to make plain his infatuation and intention. Tiien came a popular outburst that threat-ened to crush the favorite. There was talk of revolutions, abdications, exiles and what-not. The important families of Ruumania had not abandoned their projects and pre-tensions in accepting the iu:e of a foreign prince, to seo a tittle bowfeoise raised to throne over their own daughters and sisters. Complaints came to the king thick and fast from nobles and statesmen, and were com-municated by him to the queen, but she kept her own counsel, and rejoiced among her friends that real love had triumphed, and that a plain Vacaresco and a prince of Hohcnzollern had found each other's hearts. "In this century of prose and reality," she wrote, "love has again manifested its power despite all opposition; and it is from the land of the sun, Irom the land of Carmen Sylva, who sings of the heart and soul it is from Roumania that this ray of light comes. Down there a young man and a young girl love each other as in the days of chivalry. Prince Ferdinand and Mlie. Helene Vacar-esco set before us this precious example of valiant love braving the thousand storms raised by the shadow of that crown which hovers over the head of the young pi ince. The Roumanian will applaud this union, and all really patriotic hearts will beat with joy when the happy couple plight their troth at the altar." King Charles, NOT SO ROMANTIC BT HALF AS IIIS POETIC SPOUSE, arid more obedient to the leading strings of his relatives in Germany, had more regard for theevident discontent that attended the determination of hii heir and nephew to marrjMhe maid of his choice. Finding the crown prince resolved to make a princess i- . - of the gorgeous Vacaresco, the king called a council of all the statesmen in the land, and listened to their opinions. General Florescu said: "Sire do not take this step, for it means the ruin of you and your dynasty." Demeter Sturdza said to the queen: "Do not forget, your majesty, that we are Rou-manians. Although today we fight to the death for your government, tomorrow, if you take this step, you will stand alone." Convinced by these earnest words, his majesty promised, in the presence of the queen, that he would do his utmost to pre-vent the momentous marriage. Carmen Sylva promptly fainted, and when she re-covered bad herself carried to Venice, where, alone .with her beloved Vacaresco, the poured out her griefs and troubles to the sympathetic deities of the Adriatic. For a time Ferdinand's absorbing love proved steadfast against the separation from his inamorata. Letters, frequent and pas-sionate, kept alive the glowing affection of the pair until one day this alternative was put before him by the ministerial council of Roumania. - "Sire, marry Mile. Vacaresco if you will, but if you do you must resign your right of succession to your brother Charles." The crown prlnee asked three days ' in which to decide. He expressed his answer by departing ou a visit to Germany, where he put himself in the bauds of his relatives. Through their persuasions and machina-tions, he was brought to transfer his affec-tions to the young and charming Princess Marie of Edinburgh, to whom he is now en-gaged. Carmen Sylva, saddened and subdued by her shattered fancy or love and loyalty, has returned to the side of her husbaud. And Mile. Vacaresco? jShe sends her fortunate rival, from day to day, copies of the love-lade- n missives that w. re showered upon her by the tickle Ferdinand of Hohen-zoller- n. - Gowns and Their Trimmings. English storm serge and French camel's hair are fabrics largely used for autumn costumes; and navy blue, swallow blue with silver tints in its woof, and a very rich shade of Russian blue, ure all very popular, also the handsome fruit dyes; the browns both golden and dead leaf tones; the Cleopatra or mahogany tints of reddish cast; and the genuine old rose, that is the exact color of a slightly wilted Jacquemi-not. Two rich colors lrequentiy appear in one costume, and in more instances all trimming U dispensed with, and on utility gowns, a plain stylish effect is given by the use of straight rows of Milau or narrow soutache braid: An old lilac moire may be prettily treated by covering the back and train with chautiliy, leaving the front, plastron and sleeves exposed, as the - strong contrasts with the black is sure to freshen its ap-pearance. The sleeves should be made with two large bouffants of muire, sep-arated with black satin ribbons and a bow. From the lower puff should fall a flounce of black lace over white lace, and over these sleeves depend huge loose outer sleeves of black Uee, hanging very low, aud square at the ends. ' . ' '. It would appear as if only one mode ex-isted for sleeves, the full cuff and deep cuff Th First American Patent. It has just been discovered that the first patent granted to an inventor in America, that country which has since become so famous for the devising genius of' its peo-ple, was to an Englishman named Joseph Jenks. An act was, it appears, passed in the year 1604 by the general court of Massa-chusetts bay according to this person "tha exclusive right of making and selling his improved scythe for the terra of fourteen years." The decree was, therefore, promul-gated exactly twenty-6i- x years after the Mayflower had landed its precious Puri-tan burthen at Plymouth, in the state which was afterwards destined to witness the com-mencement of the American war of indepen-dence. The improvement protected by Mr. Jenks' letters-paten- t is stated to have con', sisted of changing the short, thick, straight English scythe into the longer, thinner, curved implement, with stiffened back. Colored Underwear Unfashionable. The petticoats excepted, colored under garments, so very fashionable of late, with ultra elegantes, are now set aside, and whit garments of cambric and fine linen have again assumed their sway. This is not only due to the excessive ccarges made y the dyer for the "doing up," but it has been proved by those who devote their labors to the study of hygienie science that colored underclothing is injurious to health, owing to the poisonous ingredients which are used to obtain certain colors. Uses for Horu ghMS. Sport loving ladies delight in adapting1 emblems of their favorite pursuit for various ornaments, not excepting the toilet. Min-iature spurs for instance, either alone or with a riding whip, are used as brooches and buckles for blouses, caps, cravats, book or- - , naments, etc. Real spurs may t turned into a stand for a small wooden frame for photographs, etc., ornamented with scorch work and then placed inside the spur-stand- . Old spurs will do quite well for this pur-pose, and maybe either broatsd or gilt. round ironieu ana square in scape, win do equally favored this fall. Therefore - the choice between the styles will be merely a matter of taste. The choice of fabric and garniture is a matter of means, as the range in these regards is almost limitless. Some of the plain capes are made of marine blue, grey or green Venetian cloth, with a velvet yoke and collar. This is the plain, simple sort of which there are scores. The elabo-rate and ornate cape is made of velvet, lined with brocade or of heavy corded silk, superb-ly trimmed with passementries and bordered with feather bands. English walking coats have the skirts slightly shorter than the spring models, and as a rule they open over vests of various shapes and qualities, but some are double-breaste- with nnely stitched edges and finished with two rows of old sil-ver buttons picked out in bronze. Autumn Wraps. The most convenient autumn vetement Is certainly the cape or eamail. It is easy to wear, light to carry and well suited to the sudden changes'of temperature to which one jis exposed at this season. The cape known --as the cvrnail Templier is made of cloth lined the sides, are placed in knots or rosettes about the foot of a skirt, and, in fact, are seen wherever it suits the capricious taste of the dressmaker to put them. . - The robe J'urreau is aiso known as the robe gaine, and if possible is more smoothly ad-justed to the figure than ever. Jackets and Wraps. Short loose-fronte- d coats, called "coatees," of English make, are of tan or gray mixed homespun, with large round buttons of smoked ivory. Beige colored blazers of cheviot, or cloth, are used because they harmonize with almost any costume The officer's cape of tan, or blue cloth, lined with a contrasting color of silk, is the best thing to throw over light dresses with fancy sleeves, as they do not crush them as the jackets do. Jackets of white cordinette are made double-breaste- and close with big, pierced mother-of-pea- rl buttons; some of them have the revers and cuff overlaid with guipure laee, or they are trimmed with many rows of gold braid or embroidery. Wraps, Intended to serve the manifold ' ' ' .'i ' . , :. ' Sashes of every description appear upon gowns, especially those designed for late autumn wear. They are twisted about the waist, or bound tightly about the hips and knotted carelessly at one side, or even directly in front; they are also tied around the waist and pinned in a point in front to imitate a Swiss girdle, while at the back they are tied in a great, soft bow, which is attached high up on the bodice in much the same fashion as those worn by tho Japanese women. Some of the corsages are of the short-waiste- d Recamier variety, the sleeves one huge puff, from armhole to elbow. From thence fall gathered frills of lace that reach nearly to the wrist. This particular style of bodice and sleeve is certaily very becoming to short, stout figures, but this fact has not prevented many tourists of that type re-cently returned from abroad from electing for these fancies, which are already adopted both in Paris and London. In the list of handsome autumn gowns are those of black bengaline silk sprigged with pale yellow honeysuckle-blossoms- or small clusters of scarlet lobelia. They are made, as a rule, with coat and belt skirt, with vests of red or yellow crepe de chine matching th shade of the flower in the dress. Thoi '.'.'.' |