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Show in Bearch of a purchaser. If the buildings of Tangier are not pleasing, the landscape is most rewarding. reward-ing. The beautiful curve of the bay, the wide view cf the ocean, tho near hills of gentle acclivity intersected by pleasant valleys, the foliage green in winter, and including such sub-tropical plants as palms, cactus, aloes, eucalyptus, pepper trees, oranjjes and lemons all this was charming. In the distance on the European Euro-pean coast we could see Trafalgar, where Nejson fought and died; Tarifa, a name associated with most unpleasant "duties," "du-ties," and Gibraltar, with ite commanding command-ing fortress. Here run the atraita which unite the sea to the ocean, and here are the pillars of Hercules, which always have been and always will be lat:i-iTs to the traveler and the terchant.-D. C Oilman in BaKimore Sua QUEER AFRICAN CITY. The Difficulties Encountered by One En-. En-. deavoriug to Enter Tangiers and What One May See. GILMAN VISITS AN AFRICAN TOWN A Place Where Existence Hinges on the Precepts of the Old Testament and the Arabian Nights. What, is there to see in Tangier, and why do American tourists, after "the run tnrougb Spain," think it quite essential essen-tial to visit the Barbary coast? I can answer an-swer for one party. A sagacious friend ' who recently went from the Straits of Gibraltar to the Bosphorus said to us before be-fore we left home: "You will see nothing noth-ing more purely oriental than Tangier in 11 your proposed journey." Certainly we have found the place so completely foreign to all our ideas that only the old fashioned word "outlandish" seems adequate ade-quate to describe it. Here is the most western of all the sex-ports sex-ports of northern Africa lying within sight of the coast of Spain and the liock of Gibraltar, a place of 16,000 inhabitants, inhabit-ants, npon whose ways of life and thought European Christian civilization has carcely made an impression. Yet more than 200 years ago this city for a short period belonged to the Engliub crown. It is now the residence of those foreign ministers who are accredited to the sultan sul-tan of Morocco. It is in almost daily communication with France, Spain and Gibraltar, both England and Spain maintaining main-taining poBtofiices, with separate bureaus, stamps and mail bags. There are newspapers news-papers published here in English and hpanish. The Hotel Continental is so good that there Is a current mot to the uect that the best hotel in Europe may te found in Africa. HARD TO LAND. The English come "for sport,'' the particular par-ticular attraction being the chase of wild boar, for the which a manual of "hog ticking" has been elaborately set forth. Vet, notwithstanding all this the Moors and the Jews goon in their old fashioned ways as if they were living in the Fifteenth Fif-teenth century Indeed, it is easy to believe be-lieve that we see in Tangier much of the same sort of life which prevailed in southern Spain 400 years ago before the conquest of Granada with one important impor-tant qualification: Tangier has nothing which suggests the learning, the science, . the arts, or even the sacredness of the peat cities of Andalusia when Moorish sway was dominant. The Arabics or Mohammedan Mo-hammedan dominion, without the Arabic enlightenment, loses all the charm which is suggested by what is even now to be seen in Cordova, Granada and Seville. The transit to Tangier is easily made In eight hours from Cadiz, in four hours from Gibraltar, in twelve hours from Malaga, and the traveler may have his choice among many competing steamers of different sizes and diiferent disadvantages. disadvan-tages. The transit over, a landing must bo made. The beach slopes so gradually that large vessels cannot come near the shore, and people, cattle, baggage and goods must all be transferred to lighters and rowboats and thus brought to land. In rough weather the steamer will sometimes some-times lie for hours without being able to disembark its cargo, and one company of travelers whom we met returned to Spain without putting foot upon the shore of Africa. When it is rough, but not so rough, passengers are carried ashore in the arms of stalwart Moors, or perhaps ride papoose pa-poose fashion. Fortunately, these descendants de-scendants of the pirates who used to infest in-fest tho Morocco coasts are capital boatmen, with strong arms and legs, so ' that they may be safely trusted. New perplexities arise when the shores ure reached. In all Tangiers I do not think there is a wheeled vehicle not a gig. a dray or even a wheelbarrow. So gang of porters seizes a traveler's jtrenks, handbags, shawl straps and umbrellas, um-brellas, and transports them up the narrow nar-row and sinuous lanes which lead to the hotel. ; As I looked from the rowboat to the top of the landing stairs I noticed in the crowd, which was dressed in ail the colors col-ors of the rainbow and in all tho varieties varie-ties of eastern fabrics, a tall, dark faced Moor, with a capacious turban, a broad, blue flowing robo and a stout staff, ending end-ing in a pastoral crook. "I am Mohammed," Moham-med," be caUed out, pointing to his heart either to confirm his identity or bis veracity, ve-racity, I cannot say which. "The man lam looking for," was my answer. From that hour until our departure Mohammed Moham-med took charge of us. We did not engage en-gage him, but he engaged us. His tread was as dignified and steady as that of SaJvini when he personates Othello. His shoulders were broad enough for a Sam-son. Sam-son. His voice was deep, rich and musical, mu-sical, like that of Carl Formes. When he was mounted on his favorite mule, leading our cavalcade through tho mar-Let mar-Let place, or halting before tho snake charmer, or climbing "the mountain," where foreigners have their houses, he jwas quite magnificent. ' j SIGHTS IN THE CITY. i The architecture of Tangier is much more impressive when seen in mass than when seen in detail. Looking toward the city from the steamer in the early dawn the view was beautiful Terrace above terrace rise white, Hat roofed houses, over which tower the minarets of two or three mosques. The city is divided into two parts, through which runs the principal prin-cipal street, leading from the "water gate" to tho "market gate." Upon the western or highest acclivity is the karbat or citadel a combination of residence, fortress, court of justice and prison a forlorn and unattractive Alhambra. The lhops, the bazars, the dwelling houses Are interesting because so completely different from those to which Europeans re wonted. So is the boys' school that was "kept" just opposite tho door of tho Hotel Continental. Twenty bright eyed tittle fellows, seated on the ground, were taught by on old man in turban and spectacles to repeat over and over again verses from the .Koran in a singsong tone, while cards with the words in Ar Lie were held in their hands. . Solomon's precepts respecting the utility util-ity of the rod were not forgotten by the tarbaned pedagogue. Hj plied the stick pently but firmly on the backs of the in-aticntivo in-aticntivo scholars, precisely as in south, em Spain the sellers of Christmas turkeys tur-keys drive their bipeds from door to dooe |