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Show OF T ASTEJNDRESSING e ' : Tints and Shades Have Taken the Place of Glaring Colors and Good Sense is - Once More on Top, OLIVE HAEPEE EXPRESSES THANKS And so Ought Every Person of Fine Sei sibilities Some Sample Gowns Described, Special Correspondence. New York, Aug. 28. Sancho Panza called down blessings on the man that ri vented sleep, and he certainly deserved is blessing, but I think that that per ' an man or woman who invented the :so of tints instead of primary colors in jess deserves also a special bless-ng. bless-ng. One is never so certain of that un- A STUDY IN COLORS. til he or sho gets hold of a fashion book of a quarter of a century tigo and notes the glaring awf illness of tho colors there brought togethor and worn as tho highest high-est styles. Emerald greens have borders of violet, vio-let, violet i3 garnished with yellow, green and scarlet aro ispoken of as good contrasts and bluo and orango. Brilliant Brill-iant purplo trimmed with groen ruffles and rosettes is mentioned ns being very elegant. Bluo and red, each tho natural :l complement of tho other, are nover mentioned as being used together, but all tho other colors of tho rainbow were jumbled up in the queerest and most startling manner. Even the pinks and sky blues wcro aggressive. Now you find a pale greenish blue camel's hair gown made princesso style, in the plainest manner, with hero and thore a plait or a fold which breaks the sevorityof straight lines; a little passementerie passe-menterie in tho Game shade and tho skirt left open for a glimpse of emerald green velvet, tho sleeves and guimpe also of velvet, and you have a gown that would be a perpetual delight to yourself and a , burning envy to your friends. And that ' is moro than half tha satisfaction of a new gown. It is not enough to know that it is beautiful; yon want to feel that other women envy yon tho possession of It, but are too proud to copy it. Another outgrowth of tho present artistic ar-tistic knowledge of colors is a gown of lan colored cashmere with tho front of the slrirt opening over o, few plaits of pale bluo crepo de Japon and bordered with two rows of narrow dark brown passementorie. Tho plain waist is jacket form over a full vert front of the crepe, and the sleeves aro made of the siimo. All Bleeves aro made snug over the forearm fore-arm and puffed on the shoulder. In darker colors the influonco of the rtist is seen just as clearly. Witness a obe for tho street of dark gray choviot taado princesso front, and with tho back gathered on to a point. The front of tho waist laps over to the left side. The eleoves have tho upper portion laid in plaits to the elbow. Tho collar is rolling roll-ing and made stiff, with wired passo-menterio, passo-menterio, and a little V shaped passemen-terio passemen-terio to match in black is placed at the open collar. This truly elegant gown would a fow years ago have boon called too plain and dull for street or indeed any wear, whereas now the popular taste has been educated up to this quiet elegance in color and design. A littlo more color and variety is introduced in-troduced into the companion costume. The skirt is of wood brown cashmere, with side panels of bottle green velvet; those ornamented with three bows of green ribbon and piquets one shade lighter. Tho waist is of the cashmere With a vest of cream colored faille, and the rest of the ornamentation is of Irish IN DARKER COLORS. point, laid on flat. Tho back of tho skirt is simply plaited in double box plaits, and all new dresses are held by a couple of small steels. Some of the fashion writers are trying to sweep back the Atlantic ocean when they say that there will be no hoops. Bless you, there are hoops, and what are you going to do about it? They nre very small, very flexible and I should judge they might be very iomfortablo, but there are hoops nevertheless, and some of the highest class of imported dresses have a modest set of hoop to wear with each gown. To be sure they will interfere inter-fere somewhat with the "divided skirt" people, but what is a divided skirt to Wie principle of following the fashion? Olivk Haopkr. |