| Show I L d of Mornin 1 Calm 3 A fM 0 r s t s sr f S W r s G Gr Go r I ai o a o a m m o n n a ra is n a n n al aln n a n n A Korean K rca Blacksmith Blacksmith at Work 1 Id I'd by t Society D C wr VAU Service Chosen G v Korea Koren has been In the center cen center ter of or the Sino Japanese e contro controversy ersy during the last two years yet et the Land of or Morning Calm has hos seldom broken Into the dally news ne There Is something elusive e about the ery sery ery name of or the Land of Morn l MornIng lug Ing Calm Cahn Japan Tapan everybody e knows nobody knows s Chosen or Korea horell her lI light ht hidden under a abu bu bushel for centuries riot centuries not yet ver very tolerant of tourists and standing aloof from the colonizer with nil her prou proud Is heart heart Is as shrinking os as the mimosa and ond yet to some ome trav tray elers lers the most fascinating country of the three throe She asked of the Ages only to be bo let alone but the gift was ns denied her Under Japanese e Influence and control the old o- o 01 ot Girt cirt and river has hns h ghen en way In large port part to 4 O miles of public and private ote privately privately ly Iy operated 1 which annul lv Iv carry some o pas passengers engers The Iho returning traveler eler notices n a change chane In the lie appearance of Korel I 1 rom a dry r woodless barren look 1001 lookIng lug Ing countr country with n a het ln ing mass massof mn s of gra graves i It Is fertile ferUle well ell wi terro much and ob obviously lOlls ly Iy reforested Gh Gl c e life to the mountains first and ond you will gh ghe e life to the nt nl lion tion n a had ItI ad advised advised vl ed So one of ot Japan Japin s first acts was ns to Introduce an nn extensile c e program The forests are arc not yet of ot course fully Iro grown Iron n but they ire are well start started ed and will III help conserve e Korea s future rainfall At several points mo model e farms started by the Ule J al also o gh glue e eu u unquestioned e evidence of or the lie In cd Ity an and pro prosperity of the country The Japanese e now own about half of ot the cultivated land Why the Graves Disappeared The Iho I he tra trawler traveler eler learns how It was ns that hundreds of or thousands or of graces gra have ha been made to disappear disappear pear In the old days dais da s the sooth soothsayer syer sayer and he only could declare the most t fortunate position pollIon for a grave rn e Often the spot he chose us-is us the place In the s most fertile field and anti after the g grave e hid been iced there It would not true hive been heen respectful to the dead to cultivate the field In Ina Ina Ina a countr country ns as ol old is Korea Korel and Ith such a re reverence for graves es the result cm can be lie IrtI Once Onee Irn mounds rolled rollel e everywhere Mere like the wives wines 1 es of or the set sel The Japanese chinned oil nil that tintIn In Japan very er little Ittle lint lind Is gluon 0 over er to ra rae e In n a country eo co small so co mountainous anti and such a 0 tt teeming population there thre Is of necessity little waste lend lind L Len en I foot Is cultivated Cremation was as early flu ored consequently Jap Japanese Ine e cemeteries are smell nod 1 except around n a monastery In Koroi the e est Ih- Ih 1 I graveyards ra eor s at ot whit seemed to them appropriate Intervals internals als hor cans who ho ref refused to remove e their ancestors to these cemeteries were ere compelled to pay i 1 gr 1 e t tn tae lt rew There w is naturally much opposition for forthe forthe the es of a are arc his hb most cherl cherished hed po possession e slon I ut at att utti cs t ties I-es ire traces taxes and this ti ne- ne accounts counts nc-counts counts for tor or the increased fertile acreage Korea 1 Is a n country of or cap As one olle came to be considered y soothsayers would choo choose e another Again when hen from e ev hid gov JO eminent or red loss less sl ns of or misfortune misfortune tune tunc lJ beg begin in to appear the would he be moved to n a new site Just Justas Justas as 10 loveless s led couples mo moue moe e from hou house e to house doping to e tl tI dl discontent begin I 1 them en or all u sometimes culled the Mousers 10 el Castle about j south h of S Sill Sc e ill 1 had I II u for a 0 diy is Ie Um time lime Is reel In IntI tl tI e a old of oil I comb ies of ot the 1 i 1st t long too ton It wis one on fit of the 1111 pOi d defensive e outposts ts of Seoul and amid at al one omit time lire Is said tu to ha hae e sheltered O 0 OliO tIU peo Ie el ely y iii ely cly It dl ell 1 I r 1 more for the ruins ire Irl t I It T 1 lei hI city elt now has al out ont 15 Hi oon pent leIn Ic le I In the lie litter r part of the tho light 1 j culture the JIll plus plic e so 10 capri vitel lone lone- one of tile Hie he kings s of ot Seoul loul tint lio ho with aih till the Ille deg of tr II his hb there therL 1 the hL p pi 1 lI 10 lovely In Us lis tie tie- Ill di de-di I Cl 1 Is nil all lIn lint thit t I Is h left of tilL iii ti it-ti iee where herl hI he fre Ul used d to In ree re rt o 1 Iwo 0 of theca si the L I 1 i t tiled II Ii kings father arid and son on the Inter having Ing built tin till city cit wills Willy W lib found their last r resting Un i lines bees within Sul Sui Sulgen gen Ln s a friendly confines Although the Korean co costume tT me for formen men fot-men Ok men Is lg considered b by some sonic observers ers the he roost most Impressive e In the Orient the women omen s a dress Is de unattractive e Its nt ness Ss would make maJe a c sylph look 1001 like lIbe a asack asack sack of ot potatoes Women's Ugly Costumes The heir hilr Is worn orn In the most ugly way ny po possible parte parted In the ml middle le then brushed back at either side of the lie hoid and wound Into Inton n a tight knot koot at the nape of ot the neck In n a way wiy that Hint lint would make male the the enus of Milo 1110 look like Sis Sus hop hopkins Hopkins kins Esi Is the polished forehead ruthlessly exposed and Into prominence e One would sty siy that the hideous hideousness hideousness ness s of or the w us omen omens s co costume tume might cause e the lie of men to the or profession professional al girls If Ir they hid e ol ed anything prettier but the improvement e ment Is blight slight The hel do pull out the hair on their temples I and mat e n a somewhat hat softer heir burline I Iline line thin that of the other women omen but they draw It in 10 the same tight I nots nuts Tile The hn have hale e adopted i t pret prettier prettier tier Ice sleeve which Is very sery ery long Jon and trimmed with gay ribbons I They hev wear brighter colors and many Or Their feet are nrc tin tiny when hen you can cnn get a n glimpse of them the voluminous skirts which trail nil all ground but butI for professional dancers they the are the most rigorously covered ered women omen In the lie world orld was wis IS the High Tree Capital or of Korel or I from the lie Tenth century until 1302 1382 13 during the horn Korni dints ty the Age of or hore I Almost everything e th lb it Is loneliest lo elle t tIn In Korein horen art an 1 literature Is or of orthe the Koril period ind nd most of ot the lie arts of or this golden n ae age are now no nolo lo lost t the making of or celadon for forIn instance In son do was ns nl also o i g willed city and Is still wonderful and etten eeten ch clue e I the Hie lie palace p of or the old Korean n Is entirely more gone gone more more the though pity though there Is something dis disappointing disappointing ls appointing to titan man western estern minds In e Kore and Japanese palaces Is too ton much wooden too much dependence on paint p and lacquer not enough corn ll comfort fort nn anti 1 no precious stones The They are neither barbarous nor ch just hue bare and uncomfortable look 1001 lookIn lookIn In Apparently Apparent there has hns not been n a afire fire in n Son do for a thousand nd years I down O On n from the heights one sees ee the Hie n rm-in rm tide hie thatched roofs of this flits old old city their ancient designs e miraculously presen preserved ed I- I Itch Ilch hou house e seems to follow follo line Its owner 0 ner may mn hm e fancied They rhey are almost ne never neer er square Some are shaped like hor horseshoes cone come III e a crescent moons and oth others others ers are ill III e I gridirons All hive e a n thick mushroom hitch Scenery at Pyongyang About lG miles north of ot Seoul old Heljo yen anD pr 1 Is on e a hills which rl rice p 01 0 L the S 0 Dildo lido Dil dong If One Ins his missed ed much In this Her ITer Hermit Hermit mit until one has lins stood in III the p lIlOn that Is I atop Hoton DiJ or It ony Point and seem seu the superb p of or moun mountains rains plain city cite and the lie sparkling river Well ell ml might ht Koreis traditional tradition nl al founder who ho coined the title lInd tad of Morning Calm hive hl stood on this tills elY sery eminence and witched the play of light lI ht and clou clouds s 0 over er erthe the marvelous man clous landscape Up and do down don n and across s the swift S moving mo waters of the lie III ply numerous steno O craft and fer ferr r ho Its their white amid golden sills s glinting lInting In the I 1 arth arther arther er do downstream spins of a modern steel bridge e lull the rh river er 0 and nd till still fat her on off rise smoking ftc Ion tors S i g r twentieth century touch Impinging on the scene It 11 Is said ald tint hint the filling of i 1 1111 HIS us snowstorm storm sho showed cd the dv Xi I dynasty nn misty t where to build buill tin the wills lis of heljo Seoul Ino I Inon n is is the Snow now flint II w the of t n Is the lh d room of n a toi tun listIK h hi tt 1 some of the crem rite I walls It h 1 I IVL I c torn do un nand and ti U line idle nw law cl 1 irs around is well Ill I'll as through h the 11 I II gates the Hie 1 he e c tM te telious ci lious houst ill III Hi th Ii it i 1 on lie I 1 attern ill tern plate pille only onh fir love lo love IheI I I lIu where MIn lIn usel used t tj tit Ln cri criter nit rt tut ter tilL he c SL vs us hI li In is 1 I e nl r rued arid n nd tin no lower rises rles In lice I J Jeo eo II from it Its It lotus h b I 1 Mi It tern dim binl sOlid 8 s and oiliest m ihu I I stout got buildings and ond Midi Ir III iv in 1 l us streets ts have hate 1111 e gh given ell tin tilL u a till Hit ht up 1111 to 1 t ite lII eapp e app nI orIental trance capital rather 1111 Him lit lit-i lit 1 t it of ut at I |
