Show THE QUESTION OF SLEEVES it 1 indications that they are to be less voluminous t illustrations OF CHANGE fabrics entering into th the tion of gowns tinted chiffon th the a swathed bodice the thai B baggan fr front oat tho comfortable Flannel cd pajama fresh Loo kial women i no more rice at weddings wedding I 1 correspondence tribune l new york nov 8 1895 IRESS BESS designers of 0 the first rank i now claim that cleeves ire are growing smaller its I 1 time they did aid it N to keep up 1 it their unbroken record 0 of demand R change of 0 tosh fash A sons lons the th moment az current styles become w 1 in III 1 any one important point As I 1 aft yet the proofs ot of their claims aro are few and far ar ie be hut ho who has a last year years areas that she wants to remodel and who finds the sleeves a little too small can remember thene theme assert assertions lons and be b able to wear the sown gown with confidence but if 1 it be a new gown eown that Is under consideration era tion dont pin your faith to this claim but go co ahead and have the sleeves as big biff as aa your dressmaker can make them then you can look down upon tho the other oilier woman who la Is pretending that she believes sleeves axe are becoming smaller ono one of oc the indications that shows that sleeves will i III be subjected to a change before A P gibat while and at the same time proves that uncertainty uncertain tv exi exists lik ts as to just what the change will br bring I 1 9 Is the fact that the point at which sleeves now show a difference one sort from the other is often nt at tile the wrist rather than at the shoulder or juat below when one thinks of oc the he vast variety of 0 puffs and draperies that have had their fashionable day since dress sleeves were of 0 meal bag size it I 1 d 7 I 1 1 III 11 I 1 1 I 1 I 1 f a T I 1 1 1 IF i I 1 I 1 f i 11 1 I 1 if I 1 J it 1 if f j 1111 1 ili an indoor princess nod model el seems at first as aa it every pos possible e ible sort eort had bad been employed but with so ao much material to be arr arranged the variety of 0 forms in which it can be put is practically p ac endless so shifting the point of 0 elaboration from puff to cuff cliff indicates that diess dressmakers makers have wearied of 0 manipulating aig puns puffs N which aich means that they wont last many seasons reasons longer A much favored method ot of rivinia to the lower part of 0 the sleeve a new dow character Is employed in this first picture where the cuffs take bell form orm which Is kept in shape by stiffening this sleeve necessitates stiffened lining throughout the whole sleeve bleeve which is not dot a comfortable thought but the proportion of 0 new dow fashions wrinkles that do not set poor woman a worrying Is ever amun A dalle daik green c loth cloth was used for or this dress dreas whose jacket bodice had ft ripple basque revers and turndown collar all edged with blas bias folds aike trimming appeared at the he hem m and sides bides of 0 the skirts front breadth and a rich green vt velvet avet vest veat was added at the top the buttons upon tile the jacket of 0 such a dress may be either on an inexpensive sort bort or may cost more than the tha dress pattern itself f in this matter the purse not fashions diction Is the guide the fancy waist havone been before the full bench 0 of fashions supreme judges and been condemned t to 0 broo droo droop P in comans womans favor till it was we s li hopelessly 0 pe lessl y out now seems to be more triumphantly popular than ever and a woman oman P imply cannot have too many ot of them I 1 the very prettiest are made with till th the front falling failing loose and flat ind and the f 11 I 1 1 is 1 4 I 1 F t 11 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 1 r I 1 1 I 1 v I 1 11 f 1 0 Z 9 1 ai I 1 adother type ef c like sort wide nat flat effect further emphasized by the falling alline of 0 a pair of straps of 0 embroidered broi dered ond and Jet bled material wide enough cro h to add considerably to lo the e bahue across the chet and to the waist line idere if ere the strap are cut off on and the bell absurdly cull under the looye slid and hat front appears to be im in bly tiny but despite this continuance ti nuance of the fancy waist princess dresses are appearing in large numbers tor for indoor wear and their variety jai Is so ao great as to be bewildering rig two of 0 these appear in the n next c at two clips and give lt a slight blight suggestion ot of the range of shape that now exists ea c ests in ill this sort ort ot of sown gown for nobe the amne rep ei 1 silk ilk is and buck back a ar the skirt iv il moderately wide and at tile blont it a or of pile pale la in venter silk ilk lit ir ar ranKed in sd id 14 in end nd tall mont linni a small i f the thi yoke i 1 bovere d w with ith tulle lace and has har 91 1 stock colla collar P to match mauve velvet forms a deep collar and correspond lne epaulettes epaul ettes run nm down both tides ides s ot of the pleated ta tab ller blier widening toward the th bottom and Is 13 trimmed with bows at its ita narrowest point it devres blue cashmere ornero la Is the of tho the second princess model which Is made with 0 a plain front anil and with side pleat tel side and back its lining first hooks in the center and then hen tho the front lope laps over it Is moderately erate Y wide in the skirt part and Is 1 lined with tho the same shade of silk but la Is not stiffened mif in the wide sleeves the cashmere la is awe adeon pleated and tile the plain stock block Is covered by a a lace coll collar arbut but for this chiq a milk mull or lawn fichu may be substituted buted for the collar or any other suitable neck trim mine A new weave of chiffon that has till all the pauzy gauzy transparency and pliable softness of this the old chiff chifford chiffort ort and an exquisite x satin luster besides in 1 much T it used for draping bodices an and d for for scarf and auchus fluted ril buchea c hen of 0 thin material sial mate material are seen been the flutes so BO arranged that they to be b tile folded petals of flowers the effect being that of a crush of elquis to flowers about the the effect Is he heightened by per perfuming f alie boas and tinting the ch chifton effon with the shade deepening front from tile ali tips of 0 the ruches are usually made a little longer loneer than the nek devi round B that when they are allowed to ganir loose they make a pretty ti aln nish nih almost always there Is a fall of lace at each end A new device that Is alarin planned ed as an accessory to the dress collar Is a e collar 0 liar made of n gold wire or of jeweled v metal n etal in all the enila ends of the collar come together at tile the back and there appears at A pair of softly crisped crimped loops of ribbon or gauze the ends of tho the collar are provided with little littie eyelet holes to allow the fastening lne of the ribbon A house dress dresa that in front low Is in suggestive of princ princess esq cut Is presented in the fourth illustration of brown I 1 DR I 1 1 1 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 y ne 1 I 1 IV 17 1 7 I 1 kt t 0 11 I 1 I 1 1 1 11 I 1 I 1 with a princess look in front view cloth its stiffened skirt shows bows a panel or sablier 0 f the same goods ornamented with w li t rows rowa 0 of sou tache braid this continues on to the bodice being there cut long enough to torm forni the corselet belt which hooks at the sides tile the bodice has ft a plain blaa bias back and a short bas basque clue in front there la Is a box plait which conceals the fastening and Is rather wider at the top than at the bottom A row 0 of buttons decorates this plait and a plain linen collar is put inside the standing one ot of cloth regarding collara of 0 house diessel di esses the fashions ash lons give considerable erable latitude and it is entirely safe rate to cu cut a away y tile 1 collar find and set on a little neck trill frill in its place it youve a face like a lose in bloom and a roun round d white throat it mill III be a good idea to do so co but if your neck Is in a little longer than it ought to bo be it it IB better belter to keep it in the friendly swathing ot of the high collar and the addition of 0 EL linen collar like tile the one of this sketch Is a faither fill ther aid in contrast to the almost too popular lar has dag front Is ie the swathed bodice made by scarfina scar fing the figure in the folds of a closely drawn diapers di apery the woman with a nod figure may have lave most ot of her gowns made bagged to show that she ehe knows who what t Is what but at the same time site she may ma Y have one or two made in this other fashion and they will surely display her line fine 11 figure gure to better advantage another so sort rt of 0 drapery that will nili serve the same P purpose ur Is employed on the handsome afternoon dress of 0 the 11 final nal picture here flere instead of haling the tha falness bagging at the waist the material Is in drawn up to the armhole arm holes q and bun bunched c it c d into pleats thare aiom which it drapes very prettily violet glace silk Is the dress material to which Is added a vest ra za Z I 1 I 1 lit ii k li I 1 1 I I 1 41 11 0 P I 1 I 1 1 11 Z I 1 I 1 I 1 0 0 I 1 1 1 I 1 X 4 I 1 I 1 1 I 1 I panel and vest deemin seemingly gly askew of black and white satin with plain stock collar attached al ocl 13 EL a panel of the same in the skirt the belt bell is a plain satin ribbon tied at the hide and the full sleeve pulls ale aie lolet silk ending lit in white satin patin dins cuff s elbow sli slices ees whose outline Is very like these are still seen on drossy dressy costumes collumes coH lumes and tor for vear car with them there are long ions gloves without noticeable stitching ing an effort Is being made to introduce the glace kid glove in the long glove but tile the suede Is too much its superior in and becoming effect to be disc discarded aided colors remain reni aln the same though boroo gloves shown in pale yellow hillh ith the inner surface of the fingers made of white kid hac sold promptly this inner finger piece 0 of f a kid contrasting with the rent rait ot of the glove gives slenderness to the hand but it Is 1 only the new effect in ili gloves that la in safe gloves should be always the least conspicuous part ol of a 0 wo o mans maiva attire even women nho w ho do not like to give up tin ow dainty charm of a realize how comfortable flan nellette pajamas are MI all wear them in it tile winter vinter they are made mada much like similar garments for men with the shirt cut straight Us its collar turned back perhaps iv a little lower and with turned brick back cuffs the shirt may duly be tt urn over tilt PaJa pajama illa trousers or may be tu ked under and tied by a cold coid tile the are made of tile the roost must delicate allanr alette or ot of silk and wool in delicate weave silk is pretty and la Is warmer ulan than diablin there are some gomo extremists who have tile the POJa pajamas nils mode mede of ra insook of the same filmy quality used for the usual gilgi night I 1 t dress but these theao have a little feminine elaboration by way of cut and lace 1 ice ornament and a ribbon la is worn about the waist instead ot of the severe bevere cut caid d this sort of thing thine Is I 1 moi mole 0 than pr to but bul it lz inot kraeth at al nor I 1 in it much burn god ev n it Is warme thun tin night dr is Cupil ht akl lir how to polish olish stoves and grates rl in polish nr a tove or litchen kitchen fanire some preliminary and nd preparatory arrangements range ments axe are always necessary the first requisite Is to ascertain that the lire fire Is completely out after which all cinders and fishes ashes should be emptied into tl a pall pail especially made for this purpose cont aaning a wire sifter inside in this way the sifted and reserved arctic for or future economical use and the ashes only ari are thrown thron away the stove should then be thoroughly freed front from all dust duil arid and all grease spots spot should be A aped oft off with a damp cloth A pair of stout leather gloves should be donned for or the occasion the best beat brine being those known as hoim emalda gloves and which are made expressly for or the purpose then the blackleg I should be applied by means locals of oc a small round lound sort son brush after which the stove should be well polished with another and harder brush in a rapid and vigorous manner and with light even the filial polish could LQ L given with a bit of leather or by means of so no homely A device as son soft paper bags which axe are really said to be excellent the black lead la Is usually bought in a solid substance which should be grated into a saucer or any other suitable dilda and 1111 mixed d with equal quantities of water and turpentine the latter gl allne ellne ing a much greater liun han tile water alone could possibly do 1 hen households are so ao luxurious nil am to be bc radiant with tho glow of a grate era to lire fire the grates munt necessarily roc receive e ive cons constrict trint and careful attention mo more re care shall be required lit in cleaning and polishing poll shine a grate than Is required in the kitchen so as am to avold avoid spreading dust through the apartments and soll ing ans delicate carpets and furniture newspapers or clothe should first arst be spread over the carpet immediately surrounding tho the prate unit and upon this thin should be placed the cinder pall A d also a box containing all the necessary utensils such az as black lead brushes leather cloths claths and dinely paper the same process hould take lake place in cleaning and polishing as am ins ims been described for or the kitchen stove or lange lanee grates should never on any account br be neglected or allowed to rubt or it shall be found to be a most moot diri cult matter to give the desired arid and proper polish colored grates crates are a great cleat source of labor ard anxiety in order to keep them bright and shining if they aro are in dally daily use they should receive dally daily and never tailing failing attention but tile the mistress who has not a start of malda maids it at her command should not indulge in such ruch ornamental and troublesome furnishings for such a to task s k sho should d not be allowed to tile the maldof inaldo mald o of f all w work ork in some ionic houses a double set of bars are provided provid pd the bright colored ones being used lit in the summer time while the black and more practical ones are used entirely in the winter time when the places axe are in constant use bac the fender and lire fire irons should 1 always I be kept in excellent condition and the coal bucket should be constantly replenished pleni shed and I kept opt well stocked with coal Domen domestic tic monthly |