Show See y e ewt wt 1 pIrI l r i Scene on the Grand Canal Venice Prepared by the tho National Society y i hingl toaD D C the opening of the summer summer sum- sum WITH JL mer travel tra season the paths W YV of travelers tra In Europe lead again to Venice which with Its unique streets of water seems to exercise a lure more potent than cities wholly of the land i iThe The traveler should not expect too I much of Venice It Is Ig hardly fair full No NoI great reat city can exist deist on narrow V canals I and be lie ell entirely II rei a n thing tiling of beauty One ne necessarily has had dreams of Venice and goes there with marked preconceptions preconceptions This Tills follows reasonably enough for so much has lias been written about tills this city of the sea and of cour course e the time rosy romantic aspect has been heen presented If one does docs not set his mark Inordinately high Venice will charm him hirn ovelt Novelty will pinch hit hilt whenever beauty strikes out By Bv all means the visitor should fir fir- arrange ar arrange range to e arrive in Venice b by night Under soft sort moonlight or 01 unter under er the thera's ras ra's rays of the dim and Infrequent street lamps Venice puts her lier very cry best foot forward and strives to make the most extravagant ant dreams come true The deep shadows under Its bridges and time the palace arches the mysterious nar- nar narrow nar nul narrow row black canal canul entrances the plc- plc pic picturesque leaning posts the time gentle lap lap- lapping lapping ping of time the waves a against time the walls and steps the swish of the paddles time the half brusque half songlike lIke calls of the gondoliers as they blind corners perhaps the musical song of a gondolier In the distance all combine to give e 1 one olle an entrancing entrance into the City of Canals lie He leans back on Ills Ids cushions during time the thelong long boat hoat ride to the for hotel hotel for of course traveler tIa and lu luggage u e must go goby goby o oby by quite boat boat quite content contented ell with life Ilfe This is I enl Venice e and mind Ii it Is quite as fiS It should he What the Day Reveals A nl night ht arrival Is a II ruse but a suc sue successful successful one Olle It Is as though one should contrive e to meet a n puce once beautiful lady no longer young oun at an on e evening garden arden party Her lIer wrinkles become soft lines h n tile they face you ou In the pitiless light of the morrow v they will have ha a certain su suggestion of familiarity and memory mernon will make them thorn less harsh The first day in Venice discloses e indubitable signs of ugliness u lIness as ns well as of beauty Picturesque slue gondolas pass lass on the Grand canal So do tile the Venetian street cars squat squat steamboats little but all nil too large beside t the lie he their gondolas gondolas off sawed ofT stacks belching dirty black smoke They raise choppy waves ns as do the swifter little motorboats motorboat Tile The gondoliers glare at them and the traveler trav trav- traveler traveler eler joins them In spirit in the choke choice italian curses that the they must roust be utter utter- uttering uttering ing under thel their r breath More gondolas pass and pass and tile the lie trash boats of the municipality In the wa wa- waters waters that seemed so fair last lust night limits ts every conceivable sort of rub ruh- rubbish bish Yonder I Is the beautiful facade of a fine old palace and b beside It n building from which the time stucco has haa fallen In Iti great grEnt disclosing ugly uly bricks briels beneath Perhaps the stones mire lire falling away too ton at tile the waterline letting the waves wn reach In for an in- in In e greater destruction Green slimp ers cowers the steps und and the tilted tilled wooden posts are rutting rotting Tine Time Is not lIot the only deg desecrater of or Venetian walls The Ilie hand hund of th the advertiser ad has hf been En hus busy too end And some of the walls that Dandolo loved lond and that scores of I poets have h sung aboul now no Inform the occupants of gondolas and street streetcars l I cars ars of products that thai ran can be he purl purI purchased purchased pur- pur purchased chased to their supposed advantage I l But thanks to o 11 it night arrival these I things do du not tint worry the time visitor overmuch over j much He lie turns ruttier rat tier to the domes of Santa Maria larlo e dello fella Salute with a aI al aI l I tangle of masts ts u against the lie sl sky y toi to i the arch arc of the history encrusted old Porte POlite RIalto to time tile lie Incomparable spires anti ancl domes of the Cathedral of ofSan ofSan ofSan San SanIa Ia Marco One finds that timers there Is a n surprising amount of dry land life In Venice A veritable maze of alleys and alII call lit lit- little hit hit- hittie litI tie tle streets and canal ennal walks walks side exist Time rhe best one can enn hope to do In a short stay Is to gain gaina a 1 superficial acquaintance with the main wa way between San Marco and the Piazza San Marco The ways whether narrow alleys or somewhat wider calles capes have hu no side side- sidewalks sidewalks walks of course The entire space such as It Is Is for lor tor pedestrians At I intervals Inter the narrow ways open up Into camp campi aa as the little squares are called The Tho name Piazza has been reserved for the great square of San facing the the cathedral cathedral the ulti ulti- ultimate ultimate mate In dry spaciousness In Venice If It one has only a n picture knowledge of Venice as all the world has lias not been there has lias the Piazza San Marco larco will prove pro a surprise The little open space that holds the famous statue of the Lion of San Marco Jarco Is not the thereal thereal thereal real piazza but hut only the anteroom the pazetta Well behind the lion col column around the Camp Campanile lies a square greater renter than many a fi city kith an unlimited supply of terra firma can an boast No o wheeled or four footed four traffic uses till this great reat square It Is given ghen over o entirely to humans and pigeons Thousands of the latter make the Piazza San Marco their home and there Is seldom a n time during tho do day when one can cnn cross time the square without carefully picking his way to avoId stepping on them thern When night nl falls again and cloak the Inevitable Ine tawdry spots of am al amold old city bull built t on piles plies one forgets hi hl hI of the day Out on the la In lagoon lagoon goon at time tile mouth of the Grand canal canalIn canalin In a n host bout lighted b by gaily colored Ian lanterns terns a company of musicians an sin singers ers begins a n serenade The goo gOD dolas of tourists Join the throng o 0 slender Ellender black forms bobbing grace gracefully full fully up and down each with a silent statuesque figure fiure standing at Its ste Soft music and the gentle swish o till fill III I the air The lights of tl ti Lidos gleam In the distance while Den Dener er at hand liand black masts and spin stand out omit against the sky time the shaft shaft of tile the Campanile topping thee the theall 1111 mill The Three Lidos Venice's playground is the Lidos ti chain of or low luw sand Islands across tI t In which have ever guarded tI tIelt elt city from the Adriatic Without the the Isles Isles and arid the tide they control Veni or at nt least the Venice that Is so win WI w known would never have been borOn borOn bor borOn On the Lidos were the orl original s sr Sf that led to the of the city of Venice on the time Islan ishan of time the lie laJ lagoons When and I 1 hordes swept dorm done on Europe 45 4 2 A D many of the Inhabitants the regions further farther fu Ither Inland took rl r ruge nuge uge on time the Lidos From 7 12 to SlY t spat seat of government of the region wat w wat wat at 1 a few miles south the present Lido bathing lathing resort time the same Time The of tIle the waves during the spring n a autumn storms and nud the time to attacks from enemy navies na Ies led SO to a n general exodus to the Islan on which width the present city Is built The Lidos today consist of three pr cipal long Ion sandy Islands divided narrow water channels and scare far enough above ahme the water to he be d 1 from clouds when se 81 from n a distance distante The beach of ot Malamocco Is time the Inn larg and most Important as It conta both the famous bathing resort D a athe athe the small village e of Malamocco 7 1 of is a n strung village strung village of or fishermen and Alone Alon It are ure portions of the great reat s 5 swall swall wall for although the Adriatic r p Its daughter from the guns the heavy draught lien vy vessels of the M I Idie diet die ages It exacted constant hOOlI In stone walls and breakwaters 1 of St St Erosmo Erasmo north of ot I Lido Lido Is shorter and less Important Fine Bathing Resort At one time there were five ports the channels between the Islands that at lit St Erasmo was closed dosed to crease rease the volume of water at Lido port nearby The amount of tidewater that th tie la lagoons through the r p channels bears upon the welfare the city If It It had bud ever been m than normal lar large e vessels could h b sailed up to the Grand canal as ns tl do today due duc to dredging find and Venice ellice would have needed he fortifications In place of air airy pals If It had been n any less the city wo tico have lIa been een malarial and Is the main today for e vessels ls of heavy y draft other ports Tre torti and together are not as Important as LIdo The Lido however howe owes Its c renown to the llie tine fine bathing beach bench beachIng Ing lag Ing the sea Along Its sn sa Byron ron and Shelley raced their hor before the vogue of sea sen bathing II artists set up their easels to ca that soft oft and luminous harmony Venice from u a distance |