Show THE SAO SAD TO MAN OF FASH FASHION 1011 0 sties for tio the society 1 gentlemen in blacks black HOW THE BOaS AZIME baha IS WORN 41 0 RJ oil the high hot hat ani and the iho derby how long ijoyi it Is to be in mourn ing anck astor its in mourning attire tho necktie anil and the gloyce gloyna for mora mon who have lost settle ono near and dear to them right 1852 by james AV with the death of william aslor star on one of the first rl families in tho ilia land has roi tired I 1 red from life for or a year or moro more and it may interest the man of fash fashion to kilo know how john jacob alor tho he heir appears in fit n garb arb and how tile tho remainder of tho the family will follow the tha dictates of society lo in this regail the band ol of fine bombazine comes within halt half an inch of tho the lop of mr actors high hat and that it may be ba said is do ri rigueur guear fir far a year the ilia hand will ivill bo be worn at this height then it ft may bo be worn lower or loru ioni ovod oved altogether anil and replaced by the ilo staid black dibbon and bow it la Is almost impossible in this country says saya an authority a rity where there are no hereditary customs to lay down exact laws e either till 0 r a as a to A the he leng lanaih th of 0 tho the pot iod during which mourning should bo be worn wor n or 1 01 I to tile extent to which it sh should 0 A I 1 d be ba assumed theta there is however a ac certain orlain etiquette of mourning which while not as arbitrary as the iho french code coda which declares s a widow must ion don weeds for ono one cir car and six vi weeks is usually followed in this country libora vibora toon ut of ilia hie customs aro are borrowed froni from the iho english it would bo be lato resting ta tills connection to know a 4 1 I 1 1 Y t r I 1 I 1 11 I 1 t 1 I 1 1 I 1 1 11 aweau IV I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 4 I 1 11 v I 1 I 1 THE mol STYLES FOR haqq how bow tho the arbiter of english fashion the prince ol of wales attires himself for the duke of clarence his mourning Is 3 ot of course much enuch modified by the exigencies elgen cles ot of his hil position but it Is sate safe to assert that it Is distinguished by that perfection of detail that faultlessness of selection thu that th u q shows bows the perfect gentleman the laws governing the depth of the iba band on the hat have become kathoma exact and it Is the first article of attire to consider III fa this conno conne cllon ellon for deep deal mourning for or tho the day of the funeral tor for church for nil all occasions except business and traveling abe he high hat is s in fit ats alsie le dortho for the widower the band of lice bombazine comes to within one quarter of sit an inch from the top for the father or mother ono one halt half an inch from the top for brother or sister or grown abild turtle and one half inches up from the brim and for au all aunt uncle or collateral relation three and one halt half inches up tip from the rim the widower and the wan roan wearing the band for father or mother should wear it unaltered ernd for at toast least a year after that thal period to individual taste it way may be lowered the same rule holds good for the band worn tor for brother or sister one year being the proper duration of deep mail mourn rn ins for aunts uncles cousin and collateral relations the period varies from froin three to six months according to the degree of intimacy and existing im g bett between lean the dead and bereaved in complimentary mourning a gha ghastly atly term to denote that worn for lu la law the rule Is the same as for the closer and truer kinship the mourning tor for lo la law Is however purely arbili arb luary ary and depends principally upon how much they leave tito the bigger tho the bank account the deeper the mourn luK lux especially tor for mothers in law any man however who honors banors ills hla wife will show her deceased parents the same respect ho he would bis big own slid and nothing could possibly appear in worse taste thap than to see A i woman to in all the trapping of woe while her husband als regard the custom entirely for round topped derbys the hand band tor for wife and all the closer kinships kin ships must be as high as the shapo permits for fir th the 0 other ties of ot kindred it can bo be about halfway half way to the top the square topped lopped derbys are regulated ted exactly as the high hats bats in deep mourning the rough cheviots chevious chevi and any all black goods but more particularly ticul arly the roush rough woolen are in fit good 1 1 I 1 aa I A I 1 I 1 2 I 1 I 1 I 1 in IC bault WALDORF AND JOHN JACOU IN taste there should bo be no donation deviation from ago rulo of 0 nil all black tor for one oar a arter that tho the band anair bo bc lov eroil and faricy fancy trouser liiK hig lu in rray gray and black anil and goods boudi with a mixture or of thebe colors baybo may bo aJ adopted opted bere once cince fisl il at hat was waa the or of a gent lemans attire red ho replied good linein plenty of 0 11 14 ll and 11 coull try wash wishing ing and rood good linen plenty ot of it and pure white Is 18 essential in L 4 nothing la Is so BO suggestive of a cilia cake ik alk as a black and while shirt end nd dont lia be deluded into consid considering tiring it handkerchiefs should also bo be pure pura white the tb black bordered afra affairs lra permissible InIs sible to women ore are abominations when carried by men man they are ex en tremor and extremes ere are always vulgar the man of taste is 19 a conservative being and oversteps over steps the in nothing for the llie first year ties should bo be all all black and now ft a daia daa tile tho niao lien in black lias has a range ot of choice both in material nut erial and shape A few ew scars car ise ago orly only sros gros grala grain silk bilk was and tills after a abow few looked shiny and greasy now tho bull crepe tie do chin chenu china silk bilk aud and are mado upon 11 till ever popular four foer in hand and pu pull ff shapes the former being preferable for or deep mourning tie no pin pill jewelry Jew olry wicent chatis Is absolutely ll 11 PC essary Is tabooed tabo oed A black SIM wa watch tc it suard guard la Is better torn form than ihan it a chain and it Is debatable whether tho the usual ilailo plain sold cold studs slid and alceid feet a buttons are better taste lasto than thi the black ones As whether bother of onyx or enamel for aw 11 dower there Is ething incongruous in III the glitter of gold and tho black studs and sleeve buttons seem boom more consistent but for heavens sake fake dont wear a black jet or onyx watch chain they malo mako the gods weep arid and by the way A volvo collar 0 on the overcoat Is not mourning nor this garment niada made of brown bronn and blue I 1 1 rz ail sw IF 11 I 1 q 1 I 1 I 1 11 STYLES IS im stationery chinchilla however dark neither are black satin ties nor a brown derby with ii ith a abandon band on it AN which asch last oye sore is not infrequent it would be impossible in fit the limits of th this 1 to article to enumerate the arlous sole solecisms clams of fashion even well sell informed men in wearing in naming only a few general rules can cali bo be ghen and you do tile the rest it is hofei or in the matter mat cr of gloves that men err roost most frequently most men hate a black glove buy a pair tor for the funeral wear them till worn out and then buy their ta fa iorito orito color they hol bofto Novar vcr iu in the deeper grades of mourning wear only black gloves for one i oar or go bare barc hanaew a mechanic like alternative but far battor batter than to don pumpkin colored dog skins skills or even brown ones A fashion however is groat so also is she merciful and at the end of the year a very dark tan may be permitted another instance ot of those unwritten laws which smooth the way of man and now having exha exhausted asted deep mourning let roe me consider what might be called grief under this head bead also I 1 may consider r colati cral sorrow that for or all th the less g 5 near cle degrees greos ol of kindred after the first year the band may be lowered d and clothes of various blaak and gray mixtures bo be worn ties of purs pure white black and white whito and vice versa are per uns wis sible bat mourning must bo be left oft off gradually s that the of colors colora bo be most imperceptible lavender heliotrope and gray are allowed in III though a wants mans individual taste may be followed in lathis this respect what Is 19 said of second or hall balt mourning Is applicable to lo tuo mourning a 3 despicable term but I 1 know no when in deep mourning for throe months at the very least men should attend no ne theaters banquets or festivities requiring li ir a dress suit after that time ho be may anav if he ha carta cares to and should wear a blac blacktin black tie of dull silk satin i never mourning ills his jewelry in full fall dross dress should be the it bite onamae so generally worn there is something absolutely ghastly in seeing a toan man arrayed for a function with such grave ilka suggestions as black jewelry about b him in the and beautifully pathetic mourning of the soldier and sailor the black band on the coat meet a h has thing anif touching about it and appeals to onos ones sense of the otilda mote perhaps than iban tho the n that women wear or the crow liko like attire of men hut but we have not a as yet arrived at any such simple solution ot of the problem of black and as a the etiquette of mourn iniz now stands it should bo be respected it Is after all a fiatt mattar ir of shoso all a matter atgood of good feeling precise rules aro are impossible to formulate and its depth and curaton du raton must depend on oil taste above all no DO maa should bo be judged harshly for any deviation dov lallou from tho the custom oven though he be might show better batter taste by conforming to it many a sad heart heard throbs beneath a gay mantle and many a happy ono one has crape so to 10 speak in its doorbell like the path atio emblem waving at many a door while the mako make merry within |