Show NEW NE J YORK FASHIONS BY EDITH RAYMOND New York June 1 It Is 18 written that no iw n w woman goes on the streets without a wrap The wrap Is one of ot the most moat conspicuous features of or the styles of or today In It are ar all alt the picturesque traits and severe ef effects effects teeth that mark the contrast of at the i present fashion Long ago picturesque picturesque picturesque esque fashions were left let to evening garments while daytime wraps scraps sa savored savored savored of ot practical styles and nd trim trimmings trimmings minus But the long lone line of or quaint shapes borrowed from nabobs and aed Bedouins Be Bedouins Bedouins of or the east and the th historic modes filched from the portraits of at the early French walk abroad In the day light as well as by night I The automobile Is largely responsible for forr the development of many useful wraps Carriage coats have always ys savored of at dressiness but the exigencies pies cies ies of at dust and weather in rapid travel set the wits wit of designers at work to the advantage of bt a host of persons who have never been on speaking terms with the horseless carriage The spring brought in such a de derided decided elded change in coat fashions that the thelast thelast last y years tars lef left overs are a serious problem It Is the sleeve and the shoulder as usual that are the difficulties utes The shoulder and the sleeve gauge the styles i perennially They are areas ar aros areas as os sensitive to fashions vagaries as the mercury in the bulb is to the weather and their frequent shifts make troublesome some problems for the large Jarge arge class of ot persons who have to tomake tomake tomake make one garment do several seasons work Shifting fashions are a boon to io that small Dart of at the world whose sole question of clothing Is what to buy bu with never neer a thought th of how to buy it But they are the own conundrums to the rest of woman womankind womankind kind There are few coats with a fined waist line that are too everyday and commonplace not to show the influence In Influence fluence of or the empire style that has hR Descended these later years to daytime fashions In the lifting of ot the girdle above the natural waist line there may maybe maybe maybe be Its only greatness but that tells the story of ot the garments ness nessA nessA nessA A small wrap seen at the theatre Was made of the old burnoose b fashion with rich red purple cloth richly em embroidered embroidered embroidered broidered with At the back it was caught aught up In old burnoose style v with Ith long silk tassels A coat of ot brown taffeta had the waist abbreviated just enough to give cachet to the coat The coat was trimmed with brown and red shot taffeta taffeta taffeta feta The Tile Jacket effect of the tha body part of the garment was outlined with bands of the silk shot that end in pas ornaments Plaited frills served as collar and cuffs c The skirt part was plaited under lh the upper por portion portion portion tion and p slashed from fro waist to hem at the tta t f p Eyelet embroidery will remain in vogue just as long as its faithful ad adherents can keep It Of all the needle neede needlework needlework work types it lends itself to the most la y effects and Is of all of or them the most universally popular Few strikingly strikingly ingy new patterns nS crop out In it from rear to year yean for vast dart pa t eras pras seem to have exhausted exhaust d all the desirable e ones on ones Moreover just now with the liking for things quaint the traditional wheel and sprig patterns are in order orderA A batiste gown seen recently r was an excellent example ex mp of ot this springs elaborate ela elaborate orate lingerie fashions The tunic ef effect effect feet was embroidered vertically with eyelets through which gleamed the silk i lining The jacket effect of the bodice was a melange of The tabs dropping from the fronts of ot the jacket over the girdle onto the skirt were an original detail d tall At the back there were similar tubes The allwhite frock Is put in the background somewhat by thet the tendency to give everything ever a touch of color Some of the handsomest embroidered embroider d dwhite white linen gowns are trimmed with narrow bands of at colored linen which appear on the hems of pf skirts and on the coats These colored bands are arenow are arenow arenow now and then striped with white to add to the complexity Yellow green pink and blue are used in this way The colored material often orten makes makeR up ut th the collars and cuffs cutTs on gowns that are otherwise plain Right in line with this idea is the dainty fashion for em embroidered embroidered embroidered broidered collar and cuff sets of thin colored lawn worked with white and edged with tiny knife l of the material Sometimes these sets pets are plain but for the hemstitched edges or a sprinkling of tiny embroidered dots Narrow black bt k taffeta are I worn WOrn with ith the collars The rhe scarf of a charming channing set seen last week passed through crocheted rings and ended In I silk tassels A lovely gown seen at an afternoon i reception was of soft sort pale de sole soie made over oer pale paJe green The bottom of the skirt had tiny flounces of shot green and beige I taffeta A little Louis XVI coat was of the same shot taffeta embroidered I with green and white flowers lowers For use with summer gowns there I are colored leather belts painted with I flowers Another new leather belt is striped with white These have hae buckles to match matchA A great many of the smartest suits have plaited skirts and coats of half naIf and depths un untrimmed untrimmed untrimmed trimmed but for their plainly stitched cuffs and pockets These are the fore forerunner forerunner forerunner runner of the severe taU which Is to come back to its own as the lead leader er of at the daytime wardrobe next fall Already Aready the plain is in high regard among the w wool ool suits but for foi warm weather wear one could hardly expect tailoring to prevail ex except except except In co costumes designed for travel traveling travelIng traveling ing or other oth other r hard usage sage The jaunty little Eton favorite favorito fa for forso forso forso so many years has a strong rival in inthe Inthe inthe the little cape nape dolman and stole shaped shoulder coverings cov that have sprung up quickly with the new fash fashions fashIons fashions ions In dressy wraps raps plays on on early earl French types are many man Khaki is the color of or the hour for summer wraps d collars appear on some of the smart beige checked coats A trim little wrap worn with a gown of gray and white striped at the Actors fair fund in the Metro Metropolitan Metropolitan politan opera house last week was ivas as of gray coarse e pongee with kimono sleeves and a belt that held It 11 close to the waist line |