Show tb Cb Fo Problem m at Paris Frenchmen Prepared to o Provide Pr For Fifty Million Hungry Visitors How the Markets Are Managed Copyright 1800 1900 by R H Burns Paris June 1900 What it means means to feed reed the hordes that are now n libeling ing Into Paris for the exposition words eon can only feebly convey When the most elaborate worlds fair on record was first and the contracts for its building given out those commissioners and managers who had to do with the former form r exposi exposition tion figured out for the fair of J 1900 00 a tale tal a e of guests running over oer the limit of CJ t This gigantic visiting list may seem impossibly long to some of ot those incredulous incredulous lous bus souls who dont know that by the tho consular reports which cant lie OOOO to Americans are arc daily and in every season setting up their transient tents In Inthe Inthe Inthe the fascinating capital Add to tg Q these th a afew afew afew few ex era n hundreds of elers eters already booked at the steamship companies to leave le we the states during Curl durt the tha th fair season the English the conti Europeans and the French Frenc all sure to get their peep at the greatest gr te t show on earth and it will easily ebB 00 le se S seen h that Parisian hospitality is going to be stretched to Its us very ver utmost limits When It comes to feeding the millions however Paris is right in her element there is ng n other oth r civilized city that knows as much muth about handling food stuffs and catering to wholesome hunger a aS ah she Her markets are the best managed In Europe her restaurants have no parallel for numbers and finely disciplined kit kitchens ki t chens chess and If it any anyone one has nas as the time and the influence to get into a tiny office off the Rue de Louvre where the managers of the market receive reports on every pound of butter and every pod of peas that comes into the city limits a realization reali tion Uon may be had of how well the th Parisian pantry is prepared for tor the entertainment of the strangers within her gates In n the year 1890 1190 says sa Monsieur Commis saire of the huge central market Paris ate tons of butchers meat meal oo tons of game me and poultry tons of offish offish fish Ions tois of butter butt r and ii r ii iii i I Si 1 k pr s sp sI p I I IA I A Corner of Where pod Good I Tood is Sold For Very Little Money eggs Multiply each one of f these th e items i by three and you will get the amount of I flesh fish eggs and butter that are now estimated as necessary to supply the private private private vate houses hotels and restaurants in ini i 1900 Strange to relate however there Is no I j especial effort being bein expended or difficulty j anticipated in laying la mg hands on all th i extra amount of food stuff nor are any aUy extra preparations being made for its din dif j over the town Iii In ordinary sea seasons seasons seaSons sons France Prance herself very nearly supplies I all that the Parisian markets m demand j I The best beef mutton butter butler and fish i ii 1 i eaten ealen in Paris are strictly home pro uc tion Uan Normandy sends the juicy roast roasts j jI i i I and exquisite fresh cheese and other i dairy products and not a beet or Ir bean Is bought outside the limits of the French Frenchi Fren i market gardens In behalf behal of the expo exposition exposition I crowds however extra supplies of eggs have been contracted for In Hun Hungary HunGary Hungary gary egg and western Russia the Danish dairies dairie have been on Germany Is i going to sell sel a lot lotof of her river and North Sea Ica fisi while tons tolis upon tons of be beef f have been ordered from the United States and South America Americ I II 1 I As A for the green gren food and nd poultry I France can fulfill that thai contract he heI and to see ee the admirable way in which wh I the carloads upon carloads wal of 0 meat met iid d dI I vegetables are handled handl d It i Is i necessary ne ne tg go to the Hanes Halles or the tb vast v t central market of Paris to hl the preponderance of the daily daiy supplies t brought and whence raw rw materials mt ral for foi millions of meals are distributed t aU all parts of the city The Great Market Maket By a system perfected through many years the food Is alL brou ht exactly te this center of the city and it i Is le done doe between 1 and 6 in the orning i At 12 1 every overy night nl ht the gate gete lead leadIng leadIng leading Ing into the city Itself aro are blocked bloke by b b countless countess hundreds of market cart eart crt Ions long narrow vans heaped as a high as hay wag wagons wa ons ens with wih green geen vegetables les picked after the dew has fallen falen In the afternoon and every head heal of lettuce or bunch of rad md radishes so carefully cut pulled and nd packed in the wagons that the ap appearance of Cf many man Is as brilliant dainty and attractive as a cart load of flowers the wagon drivers in their their sabots s ob and blue blouses blouse and tI th big Normandy draught horses harnessed harne tandem watt wait wat In lines extending sometimes for miles the turnpikes tor for the customs of appraise thc and ad e the tolls and anti duties before ro tl will l pass pas them th m through on their ir way to othe the central dentral market market So soon as the gates are open the cart carters carters cartera ers era drive direct to the big market and in inthis this way by daylight dayl ht the product of all al the market gardens grdens in the environs of ot Paris Is brought into the city From the I nearby dairies and poultry farms it comes cemes S SIn in the same way while all al the fish meat and vegetables from rom the distant provinces are forwarded by rail rn and the fr car are run from the sato nto to the th tram tracks directly into tle the In market of the city and are arc unloadS on to the stalls By these es the he to food foodstuff stuff handled handle but one enc ye V ti S almost almOt as itS fresh freh as the moment Bps s tak ta t n i ithe from om the garden or dairy e t I t of its is transportation is i ii thi thu iy ni d dBy l By 43 ocl c k K t are ar aron on hand the he stalls tr rH AnA md nd he the ii entire food supply i j I await awaiting ing In its U larty 1 in i the th most most it fore for i if i Titer ther is isa l i ia la a on the III t f rth rt ri who whO know how to mai kd I ma materials know of a mea Bj Bf H it I Is l the th tb I French Even E n ml tit th t H th hip fish oysters pt peri p ni arv af tr p sold would enC i f t white while t n c ff tP e Pf p carefully cr lc anil ni M wui g d t q r rho j costliest colet brica br vi BK or o 0 J flower shop ihn 1 W ih L ue nu e far ear Q casses casses tte of beeves are are 1 ung ur at the I four rol corners en of a stall crisply r o sall white whit linen t I Jn napkins are tied te over the i lower halt of bal the body by to Intercept any m rising ring dust piles p uP upon n piles pie ot of trimmed I chops chois ehO are a ranged in i pyramids with cut I f white paper I cul cuffs on every clean scraped evey cen Done bone le les legs s of mutton muton are ar hung hun in scrap folded shells of white paper and t full ful breasted brete fowls fattened picked and pre pared pare with the thE highest art ar wear their ugly heads tucked out of sight beneath ill them em t With Wih such cleverness do the producers of all AU these thes supplies calculate the exact I amount Paris Parts wilt will wl consume in twenty four bourn hoars hour that when the marketing hours hour are ae over the sewers of the mar hats Hushed flushed and the paved ways and Il stalls washed down with wih disinfectant I haly a lettuce leaf or potato peal is left lef to to cast CRt into the great lat garbage waon w ns as Little i Litle enough remains to go t t int in eld old storage store and the greater quant It ity of ot poultry fruit and garden truck is itt but tw t hours from the farms fars gaen when ex posed d in the stalls in the morning moning For t gl reason l It i Is fR safe to t that 10 I dung I the t exposition season Ss the food foo of or Pf will n be b daily daiv as a fresh freh and I ll ILS f trough rh any any other Hummer ter des d I pl pIt crowds that will wi arrive to prey pr arve uy U larder and to see s this larder In inI I all aU iu lu a visit must be made muJe mus b to Kailes about 5 in th morning This ThiR is iM the one very verv large lre stationary market of Paris There are ar doz s of others but they the belong Ig in the excellently planned system of movable markets market that are never located loat two days dys In succession on in the same MI place and this Is done doe for fo the special accommodation of the householder living at too to great et a dis ds tance c from ri the Central market market In I the Exposition Grounds If I Paris is preparing to import ample supplies supple for her marks markets during exposi I 1 tion Hon months she fhe is no less industrious I and resourceful in her schemes for cook j ing lag and serving all al the meals meal her ht r visitors will wil wit need She owns between O and ad capital restaurants and already ady the 1 concessions granted to refreshment t con n tractors inside the exposition grounds I has yielded to the management of the fair nearly O Three Thre of ot the great I restaurants in the exposition have fig I tired d that at their tables tales will wi be b served sere fg I during the summer no less leas le than rHO meals With Wih all au al this food to prepare too I however Paris Is not in the least fluster Ouster flustered ed d and saving sving right in and about abut the th ex exposition exI exposition I position no particular preparations have been Deen made mae It I would woId in fact be b hardly I possible to add ad any improvements to the French system of public dining rooms room S for to r even in the humblest humblet little I cremere restaurant to Durands Durans or the tle Cafe Lafe the food fod is faultlessly cooked coked and amI ad I served nt d in accordance with wih the prices paid pad What will wi please the th novelty loving Americans at the exposition will wi be b the i cheap German restaurant i ant a marvelous mechanical room rom with t I big bulletin hoards boards hung about abut the walls wall wih I announcing the menu of or soups 8 PS fish I breads vegetables etc ere for the day None of these are served by bl the typical white waitress s but bur a nickle in inthe inthe I the soup slot spouts a fine stream of rich tomato puree pure into a basin held under the potage faucet two or three sous sus In the chop machine machin produces an exceedingly broiled mutton muton chop hop with a crimped cof cl eel lar lam about abut the bones and an from a big basket woven affair fall fal hot ht h rolls rols but buttered buttered buttered toast tot or fresh fres cakes cake In 11 accordance aC with the slot into which the proper num number nu number ber of coppers copper are dropped From this remarkable restaurant where an entire entre dinner from soup sup to tu ices ies can be b had the Americans and Eng lish turn naturally to the afternoon tea tearooms tearooms rooms which with wih a a charmingly shrewd knowledge of how to appeal ppl to the ap appetites appetites petites of all races maces the Parisians have hae ap opened on nearly every ever fine fn avenue a ven Handsome lade tea te saloons nave have been opened as well el In every ever one of the he large lage hotels and in some of these thes afternoon refresh refreshment meat ment mert rooms rOMs on the boulevards the great greatest geat greatest est taste tate and ad expense has his been ben lavished 1 vi shed in order to give ghe what the calls the homelike air Chippendale 1 furniture furniture low Jow rocking chairs about abut a table strewn with English and American papers hot buttered American biscuit and aM a tall tl clock cock ticking in one corner r are th proprietors have havE learned learer all al essential to satisfaction and their interpretation of what a home hom atmosphere should mold be b and ad nd though the food fo served arve In these afternoon restaurants restaurants ants ant is never expensive nor elaborate the volume of patronage is so 8 large that in the last lat year yer the number of them has ba increased from two to nearly nely two dozen andas and a with the markets market most of these thes small sal and pretty wayside ins of the boulevards are ae in the hands of the women One woman has ha a series ses of three thre of the most mot popular and fashionable tea restaurants and she has ha reaped reap a profit sufficient to enable her to buy her own locations lo tons on the prominent streets stets 1 while in the Latin quarter quater is a famous tea room rom kept by a tall ta sad sd faced but eminently practical widow who with her tea and ad scones and ad American Amern doughnuts doughnut and coffee corree beguiles the pen pennies nies nie from fm the art students stud nt pockets and and from visitors who drop into her strange 4 little rooms back ot or her hr pastry shop hop and ad kitchen khe to see s a bk bit k of true tre Ifal local clor and ad taste tte her wonderful cafe au halt lait lat that is supposed not to have its ft equal elsewhere el where sups in Paris Pars EMILY Y HOLT BOLT HOLTs s 4 |