Show NEW YORK FASHIONS BY EDITH RAYMOND New York Dec 21 Judging from the orders that are being placed for tor future delivery on pongees and tussah silks these fabrics are again to be bevery bevery bevery very popular for spring and summer wear Roughly woven effects are also considered as decidedly good property Taffetas in both plain and arid fancy ef effects effects effects are being b ing taken freely frely for both immediate and future requirements Manufacturers of petticoats have been and are still heavy buyers of silks for forthe forthe forthe the purpose of turning out the largest orders for he the finished garments that they have experienced in many years The silk petticoat has come back into inte int l favor again with a rush and bids fair to outdistance all former records Silk linings are also in good demand and all of this tIlls is going a long way toward keeping the mills busy i silks on the tho massaline order are in I strong request Plain materials are leading for the fall season although quite a fair fall amount of business has been put through on many fancy goods for evening ee wear For next spring fancies are expected to play a more Important part than was the case this last spring and summer Pongees in infancy infancy fancy fanc weaves are being brought out By ty Bythe the mills and somo some remarkably at attractive attractive attractive Ideas are to be seen in the spring collections now pow on view in this market The choicest fur garments for the coming winter season are made of mink chinchilla seal and Russian sa sable sable sable ble The furs next in order of expense exp nse of or popularity are the colored foxes lynx c Persian Per lamb and stone and baum marten Russian sable al although although although though the most desirable pelt of all for some reason is more reasonable in price than it has been for some time Seal is away awa up owing t ts scarcity and needs a princely prince purse for the voluminous vol voluminous voluminous shapes now note no in vogue The scarcity of seal Hl al has led to the intro introduction introduction introduction of the loutre or French seal which is simple English muskrat plucked and dyed ded to imitate seal so nicely in some somo cases that it takes a connoisseur to tell the difference This French seal has been in the market markel now for three seasons and this year it itis ItIs itis is introduced into the very handsome mantles capes coats and little jackets by even Cen the conservative furriers A handsome empire coat of French seal eal t seen yesterday esterday was of length with ermine collar and cuffs and finished with jewelled buttons The fronts could c uld fJ be e thrown or oien en to show the wide wid waistcoat of ivory white satin embroidered in a delicate empire pattern Such a coat costs or while one like it in real sealskin would amount to 1100 at the least Is possibly the most used fur this season It comes in all sorts of garments gar garments ments from jaunty little jackets that barely reach the waist line to long i voluminous mantles for carriage and I automobile wear The chasuble coat Is the most novel shape at the furriers and lends itself especially well to the flat A chasuble coat at one of the tile fur stores has a collar of black cloth braided with gold and green sou tache and the body of the coat is generously trimmed with the braided cloth a wide fiat braid vel velvet velvet velvet vet and ornaments Even Kven the priceless ss seal Is embroidered and braided and and French seal are ar at times fairly co covered ered with such ornamentations There seems to be no limitation to the size and muffs They are bigger than ever A tendency to revive the round shape is in the air Some of the ultra fashionable muffs are of this kind but they are very soft The fiat flat muff made to appear like a folded skin with dangling heads tails and paws is the leader however A sump sumptuous sumptuous sumptuous silver fox set seen recently that mounted mount in price to four figures and beyond employed two whole skins for forthe forthe forthe the muff and four for the stole The muff was t Inches Inch s wide and eighteen inches deep and was finished with two of the big white tipped Upped tails The stole was arranged to show the natural animal shape as much as pos possible possible possible sible two heads finishing it at the back with the tails and paws and the rest down the front Many Man such stoles are made to produce a little coat ef effect effect effect at the back in the cunning drap draping drapIng draping ing of the skins The scarf collar Is the newest newe t neck nerk nC k finish for coats being a flat fiat turndown affair when open or a standup one with front when closed Most of the sleeves are made in length with a acuff acuff cuff that can be turned down to tp the theland hand land when the long sleeve Is wanted Pony skin is making up jaunty little jackets jack ts of many man shapes among them the he pony pon shape which remains a fa favorite favorIte favorite This fur is in almost all cases except for automobile garments trimmed lavishly with braid or em embroidery embroidery embroidery or both The kimono sleeve slee and mandarin armhole are in good and regular standing with all furriers Ermine has gone back to to Its legitimate legitimate legitimate mate office as an evening fur White fox ox is somewhat pore more in demand than the regal ermine Natural beaver is revived for fo automobile coats and also for or neckpieces The gray gra and white krimmer trimmer is also In favor again for grownups as well as children Ip coats to be matched up with gray or white skirts it its is especially smart But the majority of women prefer the more delicate and beautiful chinchilla Mink Minks Is s In great esteem but is much higher In n price pric than usual Serges Serien are going into With serge there is always apt to ar arrive arrive arrivo rive rivo the vogue for velvet trimmings or 01 at least for velvet in collar and cuffs and this is no exception this fall The velvet collar Is in evidence on many of the new plain Velvet cuffs are less Jess frequently y used but they are In if It wanted A pretty touch with such costumes is the peacock colors col colors colors ors which sometimes appear in iridescent iri iridescent iridescent descent feathers of the bird itself on ho tho hat haL A little crushed blue felt hat that goes es witha blUe bide bl e serge hair striped with green and finished with navy blue velvet and dull blue and green enamel buttons has a bird of this description at one sifts shad sl The Oriental gold or silver wrought on black or white net are very popular for evening wear but their danger langer of catching on the bodice or coat or hair hall has led to the lining of them hem with chiffon These at their heir best are ore re with ster stor storing sterling ling ing silver or with gold on handloom not and sell by the pound the price being regulated by the quantity of metal used at least leat this is the way they hey are sold in Paris where they are In high favor favorA A new Hat liat has an adjustable big bow of velvet at one side which may be changed from time to time to match the he costume worn with It Its The hat has hasa a wide black velvet brim and very much puffed crown of coarse mesh net The bow is at the left side and Is of velvet like Uke the brim |