| Show 9 1 eor eAde Ade we weI I P J I civilization is to tobe t be St ary except in the larger cities The T fellahin the rich al alluvial alluvial soU with the same kind of wooden plough that was as used when be Marc Antony cam came down don Rome on a trip and got all snarled up lip wIth Cleopatra They live Uye in the same tn type ot snug snub mud the size of a lower berth They lift the theater water ater from the Nile by exactly the same wooden sweep that as aa In vogue when heM work on the It may be remarked en pas passant passant sant that the fellahin are the farm farmers of Egypt pt I i might have haye said Baid fa far farmers r mers mer In the first place but what That is the j 1 use of spending a month in a pla place e anti and payIng large hotel billa If one orre cannot pick up words of the fellahin description lion tion to parade up and down in front of his friends and cause them to I feel I Ignorant rant and The n which 18 t tucked in so neatly above I found In Paris It means un und 1 d der r your bat ht or something like that It is to these French phrases without saerin cin some me of the piquant significance of th the original For instance string beans ran can never be haricots vert They may look the ne and taste the same hut when hen they are both on the bill me flu for the haricots vert very every time timeTo timeTo To The outlying districts ol of Egypt are rf supposed to be absolutely This Thia is a mistake While out from to visit another che l luster cluster of tombs we same upon a large gang 0 of workmen engaged in Improving th road As soon as the carriage ahead of ours struck improved road It turned turtle and for fora a moment the air was wa full of jumping tourists Our conveyance started over the improved section but mired down so EO we got out and walked until we e came cameto camet to t an unimproved road and then we jumped in and sped merrily on our way I stopped for several minutes to tol l watch atch the men at work and I was wasI as I deeply impressed b by the tact fact that herE herEin 4 in this heathen land where they had no normal schools or farmers institutes to guide them no agricultural weeklies to them out tf of the dar the c children of the Orient were Wee im improving proving the roads Just az as I en them Improved during my O d lays flays In Indiana In other words they re s scooping ln dirt out of the ditch on onith r ith r side Id and dumping it In tall un unI unk k I In th the mid 11 1 of the road IlY TM The most hydro township In the hole hok Middle West vest could not have done donea a more mor Imbecilic job jobIn jobIn In Indiana every voter is required k 10 14 work the roads reads or pay a road tax Of late years Mn er intelligent dl di the highways have been vastly SHy Improved but there was as a time whan n working the roads was a large Jarge joke To avoid paying th the tax the farmer would have haye to go out with ith a team and ilo something to a public highway t he be selected a road which he WOUld not traverse in going to town i and he would plough it up and serape scrape it into hollows and leave It looking like a sample of the Bad Lands of Montana s soon a as th the tax was out ont I thirty ripe riDe odors and then have onehundred one oie hundred and fifty tifty coffee collee colored luna lunatics lunatics tics all begin talking at the same time you will m have a rather tame Imitation of the genuine Oriental bazaar as made famous in song and story The crude articles sold in these bazaars if dis dia displayed played in the windows of a department store in America would attract no t at attention attention wb whatever t ver but the tourist as an soon as he be has had bd It a tou of sun seems tob III iy y rind Irresponsible and h tb bAr bArgain gain for everything in sight It is a kind or of temporary mania known knon as and is closely allied to the card fever which attacks even the young youn and innocent Tt intelligent reader may have no Do that now and I have referred to the dust in Egypt E Egypt t makes all the other dusty spots on earth teem Seem dank and water logged ged We asked truthful our guide at If th there re had bad been any rainfall latelY He said that about five years ago there had been a light shower and during fine die of the Ptolemy administrations I there had been a I old dencher Th The family occupied the throne bout about two to thousand years ago At home take It in the jog dog days davs if we have no rain Co for two weeks anti and Ute the creek crek dries dris Up aU all the local apostles of gloom and advance agents o of adver adversity adversity sity dot clot them themselves elves together in front of th the Post Office and begin pronoun ting cing funeral orations over the corn crop Fourteen days without rain and the whole country is on the headed straight for bankruptcy Yet herE in E Egypt pt where the they ex e really It a wet rain for twenty tent centuries the people go about cheer cheerfully fully funy and there thore is no complaint re regarding regarding garding Providence But what bat an unsatisfactory hangout for the weather shark snark In Egypt the oldest Inhabitant never gets up in the morning and says rm mi satisfied were going to have rain today because my bothered me all ni ht There Is 18 no need Of looking for rings around the moon You Tou never hear Ilear any anyone anyone one say It looks a 8 little black in the north but I think blo blow around be because cause the wind is in the wrong direction direction tion Every morning the sun rolls up in tY splendor surreys the nUt mine old parched landscape cape with the strip of Irrigated green and after a leisurely and monotonous day sinks through a golden glow into the far d desert rt No Ko one is look looking lug ing for rain or hoping for It When Vb it Comes comes it is regarded as a calamity It washes ames down the mud huts in pools and makes breeding spots for ml mi microbes and leaks through hotel roofs so that tourists have to carry umbrellas I las Jag in going to t the dining room In March arch of th this s year there was a he heavy rainfall around A extending as asfar asfar far north as Luxor and when hen we e came caine along a few weeks later the natives were still bewailing the visitation of wrath The extreme dryness of the air in Egypt causes the visiting microbe to feel like an alien It becomes enervated ed od and nd discouraged incapable of ml ini initiating hating any ne new and fashionable epi i I I J I I I A eJ If e e elK lK THe 1111 TH THC Ft b A ULAR l A he discontinued the Improvement Al Af Alter After ter two to or three the days of working a fairly bad road could be alto altogether altogether gether If I were a military commander and had to ex ute a re retreAt retreat treAt and cut off my b by a su superior sup supA A force I would have haye a corPS corns of ofT T flat fiat headed town township rs brin bring up the Tear rear and work the roads I It was In this same to town n o of that hat we visited one of the greatest In Egy Egypt t We Te had heard about 1 this his bazaar every day since landing The traveller who ho had b been UP the ile and who had come back to Cairo 4 sunbaked and full tull of the patronizing I airs Irs of the veteran invariably said By the way when hen yoU ere In tou u must see ee the bazaar He m might pt as 1 cell 11 have said you are In InI I J be sure to take a look Jook at ati i tw Washington nt B Bazaar has a Far East Eastern 4 etli ern sound the same as mosque It ItIs 4 Is 15 much luckier to shut abut your eyes an and l think of a mosque than to actually Bee a deserted lime kiln din with an upturned sugar bowl on top of It The same ame for bazaar only It goes double A ha ba baZ haIs Z I Is It a cozy corner gone wrong rong If you will t tike ke the corridor of an second d class daes hotel tear Aft t hp he rood roAd and substitute a canopy of tat ten i rag ca carpets cover cove the with the a of a alive live five 11 l ten cent Ore Cre kUk Itt u a dt t or This his same air however seems to have a tonic effect on the Ilea flea In no Other cHine cUlM is he so enterprising so fun full of c Je restless tle s energy so given iven to unexpected peeLed achievements DurIng a dull season If there is a short hort supply of oft t tourists he associates with tile the na lives He prefers the tourist but come what hat may he is never idle The bacil bacillus Ins lus on the other hand band has circum circumscribed scribed opportunities Inasmuch as the I entire population or of the country lives liven I aIon along the river one orre might suppose that I germs erms would be bred and dis by the billion Yet Tet both na natives natives tives and visitors drink from the river with Impunity The sweet water ater of the Nile it Is called and even the themo mo most t apprehensive travelers learn to take It after putting hi about twenty drops ot of Scotch so as t td benumb the if an any should be present There is an explanation of the micro microorganisms organisms i ms failure to do very much harm in Egypt If a living Jiving anywhere along the Nile starts for a ramble on shore he Is and tails falls helpless lit III the sand If he sticks to the water the monotony of travel be begins begins gins to wear ear upon him aud after about seven een miles he dies of ennui It If Egypt pt is a happy hunting ground bround for the Ilea it J is likewise a paradIse for forthe the Ay If I had to 00 be something In Egypt I to Q be a Mohammedan fly The little creature which In moSt countries Is h bounded and per I I I I II 1 L lit t s t I I I I s I o t si l i HERE A ri k LL j jI a f I l I i 1 t I i y f L I ii i it iti iti cZ c p fEc THE WHOLE COUNTRY t ON THE TE TO and openly regarded as a pest is treated with consideration in Egypt humored petted indulged actually spoiled In the U S A a fl fly is al almost almost most as unpopular as the millionaire He is wary fretful and suspicious be bc because cause he knows that aU all humanity is joined in a conspiracy to put him out of business If he strolls up to a pool of water at r temptingly set forth in a white bowl h he Ands ids w min utes ules Jat later r writhing in cramps and full of corrosive sublimate He sees what appears to bE a tempting lunch on of SWEets and when he starts in to serve himself lie he overs that he is caught and held beld b by the treacherous rous tangle foot mixture He sees a sign This way to the dining room and aft after r passing sing through a long ong corridor he moos lands in a wire ire trap fr frOm m which there ther theris is no escape If he be alights on a bald bead H d and tries to use it as a rink some somebody somebody body strikes at him and calls him nantes names It is all different in Egypt est indignity that a ever offers a fly is to give him a gentle shove and request st him t tb move on It Itis is contrary to the relit religious ous to kill kiH or eve even n cripple this diminutive household companion The belief in transmigration of souls seems to vail yail In the east and perhaps ps the fly that follows and spiritual essence ence of a former head spiritual essene d of a former hea waiter or a boy or some other dignitary tary When the fUe assemble in large numbers around the various aper apertures apertures tures of a bab 5 face the child obey ing an instinct of tries to spat them and drive them away But the mother restrains the infant b by holding its hands bands and the flies give over oer to unmolested enjoy enjoyment ment The older children have bave learned their lesson seldom make an any of ef effort fort to brush aw away y the flies which loiter al over ocr their bright young features This is not a pleasant thing to talk about but inasmuch as the fly is omni omnipresent present durIng a trip up the Nile and this friendly understanding between the fly and the native is constantly un under under der the travelers observation a tie de description of Egypt would be sadly in incomplete incomplete complete without a chapter on the fly Having been a privileged class for forman man many generations the are impudent impudent dent anti and familiar to a de degree ree When the white unbeliever with no con conscientious conscientious scruples against murder comes up tb the river they swarm about tIm him and buzz into his ears Wel ome to our cit city Then when he begins sparring with them and using sulphur sulphurous Gus ous language they gather about him hini in numbers and dodge when he be strikes and side step when he slaps himself and seem to think that he is I tr trying to teach them some new kind or of ora ofa a tag game The Mohammedan fl fly cannot by any effort of the imagination bring himself to believe that a human being would wilfully injure him This feeling of overconfidence in mankind breeds carel carelessness and during the season fot tourists many of them are laid low Mr Peasley said that if there was anything in the transmigration tion theory he figured that mas massacred a regiment of soldiers several of directors a j high school and insane asylum The mortalities dur during lug ing the tourist season do not seem to the visible supply or in iii any way the surviving millions rhen we e started up the river a ped came to the boat and us small smaIl Ily brooms Th They y are arc very like the brush used by the ap in a blacksmith shop to PrO the horse that Is being shod The part Is made of split palm leaves horse borse hair and the handle Is 15 deco with work The Thc idea of a sitting about and whisking him with this ornamental duster us as bein being most unusual not say ay idIotic B Before fore we traveled far the Nile we had the grand of whiskers Th The fly broom is It is needed every cl eight ht see sec At Luxor we went out to see a na under the tIte auspIces of the Sporting club and every ope of spectators sat there w i t i I crr ius At as Tnt ROAD slapping himself about the head with the tufted fly brush looking at atthe atthe the races The Luxor club iz is not as dangerous as Ifs IL The presiding judge of the races was as a minister r of the gospel and the receipts were given to local charities A gymkhana Is the thelast last ast l resort of a colony shut off from the metropolitan forms of amusement and yet it can be made the source of much hilarious Nothing could have been more frivolous that the pro gramme at Luxor and yet the British spectators seldom gave way ay t to mirth Doubtless they were laughing Inward Inwardly ly l y Several ponderous committees had charge of the arrangements and at attended tended ended t to them with ith due solemnity First there was a race between na nathe tire the water carriers di distance tance about yards and contestant carrying a goat goatskin skin kin s filled with water Then there was wasa a donkey boys race each rider being r required to ride backward backard This en enabled enabled him to encourage his mount by twisting t th the tail In the donkey race for ladies several of the contestants fell ell f off gracefully and were carried to he t refreshment booth where they rE revived on tea The affinity race was an interesting feature The contest contestants contestants I ants rode their donkeys in iff pair a goo gen and a lady holding a long Jong rIb boa between them They were red I Ito to gallop about OO yards turn a post and return to the starting point with without without out letting go of the ribbon By far fam the most e of the pro gramme were ere the camel and buffalo races These TheBe animals have I with the hysterical natives so long loni that they have lost aU all of their natural natura I horse sense and are quite daft and ir irresponsiblE irresponsible responsiblE At the word ord Go instead L Lof or of running down the course they the would snort madly and start off in all aI I directions If any of them finished L Lunder undEr the wire ire It was by mere chance chanc and not because of any guiding intel intelligence Intelligence One demented water buffalo turned a and d ran nn at right angles to the thc course The last Ye we |
