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Show GENEVA- 1 Salt Lake Tourists ia the Famed ..City and Sailing ou the Beautiful Lake. - ' " liisttiiie Names, aud Places of ; . Note. A Visit to the Watch Factories. A UellfcliLlul Dny Uoiili tlullj (Special Correspondent:.) Lausanne, Oct. 'J. 1S77. The 6ret day of Octobor, the month ur falling leaves, of Uehuiuu haze, And of harveut aoug in this viiie-clud region, has come and gone, enrich ing our store o I interesting experiences experi-ences by the bd.litiou ol a visit to Geneva, the city' of Calvin aud Rosseau, of peace commissioners and world-famed watches. The morning was hazy and of uncertain prophecy when we lutt tho depot at Lnusanne, wud aa we wound around ilie t-urve ol the lake wo strained our uym in vain for the promised glimpue uf lout Blanc. The poetic haze which o'er-huug o'er-huug the childhood's home of M'me. De Stael thickened into a very un-poelic un-poelic drizzliug rain before we reached Geneva, and us we drew our wraps around us our hearts sank with the anticipation of a dreary dny upeiH in a hotel in a strange city, of all posi tiona the most forlorn. With good appetites we seated ourselves in front ot a beefsteak apiece, Berved in the pleasant dining room of the Hotel de Ruase, overlooking the Rhone. Don't start and picture to yourself an American round steak, but only a piece oi inea Deer, lour inches square, with a deluaive title. Our goou luL'k was in the ascendant, for while we wore discussing our break fast the rain ceased, and as the sidewalks were too wet to permit of our walking about the city, we economized t;me and muscle by taking a carritiye for a drive in the environs. An intelligent coachman, who could Bp wit every language but English, came :it our beck, and proved diniBelf equal to the emergency by politely answering all ot our questions and pointing out objects ob-jects of interest. From nun we learned what we should have remembered remem-bered of ourselves, tnat here, as in Germany, museums aud picture galleries are closed on Monday to rest the employed and repair damages consequent upon the Sunday exhibition, so we philosophically philosophi-cally recalled the remark of our Berlin Ber-lin friend, Herr Von H., that "It would our good taste injure the pictures pic-tures in Geneva to see," a remark which Bhould be taken cum yraiio jalio, coming from a critical Berliner and :a!mly resigned ourselves to the situation. situ-ation. Firot we drove through broad street of handsome edifices into gradually narrowing roads Imed with hedges un til we found ouiselves upon a wooded height whiab overlooked the junotion of the arrowy Rhone, with the turbid Arvc, a point fiom wbicn, in clear weather, an excellent view of the city can be obtained, with tha Mont Blanc range in the middledistance. Through the mist which partially obscured the city, L thought I could recoguixe a picture of Uuucva familiar to ma from chi!dbood. This height is laid out handsomely as a public pleasure ground or shooting park, so ourdiiveri mid, though the only game wo saw were ducks and swans birds most beloved of the true S.vies for whoso com tort the artificial ponds and picturesque pic-turesque rock work were evidently constructed. The recedingstorm prevented pre-vented our enjoying a distant view, but there was beauty enough at our ieet to entrance us. The gray glacier-fied glacier-fied Arvo formed a distinct belt of dark water, in clear contrast with the cryttal-hued, lake-filtered Rhone, and side by side they washed impetuously until Inst to our eight in a curve of tho gorge. The banks wer brilliant with autumn tintc; chimps (if vnrious bued trees o'orhung tbo moiling water, and flame, cokred vin a drooped from the rocks, forming a wju ler-ful ler-ful panorama of life and color. After a delightful tnnr uf the suburbs, sub-urbs, during which we obtained aa indelible impresniou of t.io beauty 'and wealt'i ol this Ur famed city, we were set down at the entrance of the Butanio garden, a very attractive puh-lic puh-lic resort, containing foun aini, Hats, statuary, etc., aud the largest, finest trees 1 have seen in .Swiiaarlaud. Here were a mustcum ;md rabmeU of curiosities, libmry, etc., connected with the hietory of the canton, to which I feund we couid obtain admission, ad-mission, but there was so much intoxication in-toxication in the air and so much attraction at-traction out of doors that we prt fencd to let alone the musty past and acquaint ac-quaint ourselves as far as possible with the Geneva of to-day. After a walk through the gardens and a climb to the buetion promenade, a prt of the oid fortifications, we strolled into the Hotel de Ville, v'hich in Amorica would be called a city bull a very old building in the Fi!-rt.ntine style, remarkable for is in. ltued planes iu-utead iu-utead of staircases, winding in spiral to the fourth story, arched over head in solid masonry and paved with cobblestones. cob-blestones. Centuries ago city fathers of alilerinauic proportions r.fle on horseback or were conveynd in litters to and from' the council halls ancestors an-cestors pofsibly of o'd Put. of breakneck break-neck memory. A ride for lifu dowu one of these inclines would have tried the mettle of that rwJoubtnble hero himself, and the baranraea ol that period must have bad their long plumes securely fastened to h.ive stood the strong draft. True to our instinct wc went to the lop, where we were rewarded, not by the view we anticipated, for we could only see into the court, (a high roof intervened) but by the sati-f ict'nTi of fopling that we had "done it." The cathedral built in the eleventh century is full of Protestant associations the chair of Calvin, the monument to Duke Heuri de Rohan and tombe of several members mem-bers of the old council of Constance, The austere, pmchpd (ace of Calvin haunts one iu Geneva iu bunt and painting, carved and pictured iu every shade of un loveliness. I asked lo bo shown the - place where Her vidua whs burnad, but our coachman had never heard of him. Evidently the Gcnsvese are not proud of that lit'le rpiecde. There was an organ concert advertised to take place in the cathrdral in the evening, and with a mgh wo turned our backs upon tt-e attractive programme, pro-gramme, fur wo were music hungry but the fates bade ua "move oo." Alter three unsuccessful eliorts to iind the sacristan we were at last ad milled to the interior of the Russian chapel a perfect gr-ni of uriiatio beauty of form and color, the loveliest place of religious worship we have wen in Europe, no'- even excepting the Roy tl chain I at Munich, which 'B undoubtedly far more cosily hut not bo pleasing. I s;iid religious worship i should have said the worship of the beautiful, the. eutraocemeni of the senses and rapt ecstasy produced by the magio combination of soft color tug and luxurious surroundings-What surroundings-What the poorof earth, "the maimed and bait and blind," would do in such a place I have no idea. And yet the church olaims the true apostolic succession suc-cession handed down from the Oriental Ori-ental Chiistian church at Antiooh, belovod of St. Paul, and a devoted Syrian Christian from Beirut, whose acquaintance I have formed hero, de-feuds de-feuds the Greek church warmly from the charge of apostasy or image worship, wor-ship, luey make great use of paintings, paint-ings, both of scriptural subjects and subjects connected with church history, his-tory, aud the honor of being descended from ancebtors so pure and holy as to merit special meution upon Iho roll of saiutB by having had their pictures placed upon the church walls, raines a man above his fellows and is a proud distinction. It is a dreamy old religion, aud I could not help contrasting con-trasting the magnificence of tho priest,, or rather patriarch, as he omerges in glittering robes from the carved doors ol the holy of holies, carved from olive wood brought from Lebanon and set in an arch of the purest Oarrara marhle, wita the sim-olioity sim-olioity of Paul preaching at Athena. Quite half of the building, which is not large, is takeu up with tho paoc-uiary, paoc-uiary, into which profane foot may not enter, but as the sacristan opened wide the dnor, there was nothing to lorbid our profane eyes from feasting Ihemselves upon its oriental luxuriance luxuri-ance of carving and vesments.censors, vases and mystic emblems. With senses almost benumbed, we returned to the work-day world and exercised a new and different sot of faculties and emotions by a visit to the watchmaking establishment of Patek Philippe & Co., where wo wore moat, politely received and greeted in good, , round English. By the way, is it not1 atrange that jnl j-i! or oui! ouilas! much as I may, my vanity has' nver been once gratified by being I mistaken for cither a Gorman or aj French woman, aud immediately upon my alighting Irom an oruuibus, belore I have tim; to utter a single ' word, the lisping Euglidb-spoaking lor that house at least the opportunity of displaying any uttor ignorance of a foreign tongue is lest. Alter we had registered in a book kept for American Ameri-can viiitors, among which we found several familiar Sin Francisco names, we were attended by a polite, intelligent intelli-gent man, who took ua from story to story, and from room to room, kindly explaining the various processes of watch manufacture, the setting of jewels, the freezing and healing process pro-cess by which the expansion and contraction con-traction h regulated, the machines for cutting and polishing, all of which are worked by hand; and diflerent sizes ot wheels, some so tiny and deli-, cate that they seemed made of got Bamer. I was especially interested in a large watch, a perfect timekeeper, made by order of tha Russian government gov-ernment for use upon the railroads rail-roads of Russia, so constructed aa to run ten days and only to be wound and set at headquarters by a secret key, thus relieving the employee of responsibility. The railroads rail-roads ot Russia are entirely owned and controlled by the government, and I am told do not benefit the people peo-ple at large as our railroads do, by opening avenues for commerce, but are only used as military transports, and for other government purposes. We were shown toy watches out of which spring singing birds watches in finger rings warranted not to keep time. (Query: la not this a good style of finger ring to be "let out" by a young lady to her latest devoted, as emblematic of the length of time her aflectiou is likely to run? This, en paataiU.) Watches curious and fantastic, fantas-tic, and sober and sensible watches of every conceivable size and shape, "period beauties." We felt after all the an on lion shown us that we were e.xpucleil to purchase at least one gold watch a piece, it uot to order a oase of asniii ted B'.&:s as presents for our home inuuua, bui although they were ofiered to in at moat tantalizing prices, we I look our heads, inwardly resolving tnat bforo wo lyuve Europe for Aimiriei we will send an order to Patch, Philippe it Co. At 3 p.m. we started on our return to L lUfjanne, tired enough to thoroughly thor-oughly enjoy the comfortable seats under tho awning stretched over the decit of the iiitlo steamer, from whioh we oblaiuod a fine view of toe receding reced-ing city and the snowy heights of the iMuut Blanc rauge on our right. The graceful lateen sails hovering over the barges like wings, the picturesque bridges, the two granite rocks Bmooth a tables, which guard the entrance, or rather the exit of the Rhone, upon which ouce smoked sacrifices to Neptune, Nep-tune, (so say b Kjtuau tradition), the handsome stone quays, and rising in the background the stately cathedral and the bastion promenade, formed a lovely picture, softened by the yellow October haze. I have not spoken of Rosseau's islaiid, ol the house where he was bom, nor of bis monument which everybody ie supposed to see, nor ot the many other monuments of historic his-toric interest, the best of which is the bronze statue group of Helvetia and Geneva, by Dover; nor of the five eagles in a cage, the heraldic emblem em-blem of the canton the smaller the country the greater the number of this liberty-loving bird. This little republic re-public is only fifteen miles square, and when its five eagles soream they (inn be heard clear over into Franco, yet in spite of its size it has made no small noiBe in the world, aud can boast of beroio names of atatesmeu, Bavnns and poets, reaohing back to the days of Julius Ciesar. From our shaded seat on deck we could discern on either bank lovely villas, half hidden in foliage; on the one hand Villa JDiodati, the home of Lord Byron, and opposite a rsgal tnanBion, the residence of the Empress Em-press Josephiue, and later of Lola Moutcz two widely dibsimilar queenly queen-ly women. Vollairw'B house is clearly aeen from -the ateamei, but not so the Chateau uf Nocher, where the great statesman lived and died, and where lies buried hn daughter, M'me do Stael, of whom Unedecker makes namby-pamby mention as "the great-eat great-eat lady writer of her age," a watered wa-tered eulogy of a decidedly strong-minded strong-minded woman. Wo were disappointed disap-pointed not . to have visited Cop pet, nor to h-ivn seen llio grandeur of the home of the Kuthechilds, which ie aid to exhibit tabtu Hi well as wealth, hut we had neen enough to make our last day on Like Leinan a memorable one, full of deliglit aud pure pleasure, lis close was marked by a glorious eunsi-t, which gilded the snowy mor.uiiiin lops of Savoy an l brought nut in roseate relief the pinnacles of Mont Blanc, muking the blue waters ol the lake a glowing Diirror, reflect-inc; reflect-inc; color aunh aa never paiuter put od canvusi, which brilliant illumination lingered long and only dii-d away as we reached (lie pier at-Ouchy, the titeiiinboat landing for Lausanne. E. G. II. |