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Show IN FADERLAND. Berlin and Some of its Curiosities. Curi-osities. A German Day's Bill of Fare. A mo up tbe Palaces, Works f Art and Antiquities. German Dislike of Draft. KAISER W I L HELM'S HOME. Worship In a German La-tlieran La-tlieran C'liurcU. OUT to Svr Hzcrlnud. (Special Correspondence.) j Berlin, June 10th, 1S77. I have just returned from a two days' visit to Potsdam and find a letter from Salt Lake, the first ad dressed to Berlin, and I now will try to make you acquainted with my experiences ex-periences as far as I can put them on paper or find words to describe thin strange life. Frl. C 's residence is a part ol a very handsome block, iu a short, quiet street in an aristocratic quarter; "a street of palaces" Kaiser Wilhelm calls it. We have plaster statuary iB niches in front and on the roof, and caryatides supporting tbe porch over the entrance, and Corinthian col timng, etc., all of which I can describe de-scribe to you in proper terras after 1 have read "Parker's Introduction to the Study of Architecture," which 1 have sent to England for, finding my ignorance on this subject a great drawback in every way. Tbe building build-ing is four stories high, and five stories in the towers, and Frl. C occupies all above the second floor. There are two wings, with towers running back, forming, with the e tables and servants quarters, a court vard. where mat now a Savoyard it grinding a hand-organ, which unhappy un-happy instrument is juat as wheezy and depressed in its native land as it is when transplanted to America. My room is just back of the parlor and baa a large window with double sashes opening like doors; French style, I have always heard it called, but French or not, it is universally adopted here, and is the moat inconvenient incon-venient window to drape, 9r to ventilate venti-late with imaginable. What I can possibly do with such windows in winter win-ter or bad weather, I cannot tell, for E tells me that it is against all custom ever to open the windows excepting ex-cepting a few minutes in the morning when the weather iB fine, and indeed they cannot be opened without, as it were, opening the aide ot tbe house, they are so large. Windows on pulleys pul-leys are unknown, so in this matter ol comfort and health Americana have the advantage. My room ia much more comfortable than I expected to find in Germany, with all necetjaary furniture, three chairs, sofa-lounge, table, washatand, etc., no carpet, ruga in front of the bed and sofa being the universal rule. We are trying to adopt the German style of eatiug, with rather poor auccesa so far, but as neither E nor M has grown thin under it, we are disposed to persevere in spite of our longing for one of those "juicy steaka" our unctuous friend Launau favored ua with at our matin meal. We are highly favored in being able to have our coflee, or first meal, by ourselves on the balcony in front oi the parler. Every morning we have the same thing, semels, or cold bis cuita, very much like the Vienna bakery bread at the Centennial and tea and coflee, and to us, by favor, Frl. C allows eggs and butter. At 10 o'clock the bell rings tor the second breakfast, consisting of brown bread cut thin, with butter, coflee, fiuh, onion salad, etc.; aud at 1 p.m. comes the regular dinner of soup, one kind of meat, potatoes and other vegetables vege-tables and "compact," which is the name given to preserves or Btewed fruit, like apple aauce or prunes. This is the end of the dinner, and il the meet happens to be pork, or boiled sausages everything is boiled here we go away from the table aB hungry aa we sat down. At 3.30 everyoody is supposed to be hungry enough for coffee and plain cake, and the days' gormandizing save the mark ia finished at 7.30 with tea and "semels." A generous Salt Lake liver would starve to death in a week on such fare, and L find it imposeible to do sight seeing on aa empty, or even a gnawing stomach. After dinner din-ner we all exchange greetings with i Fraulein C , which iB a very 1 pretty custom. We noticed it on ship board among tbe Germans. When the hostess rises from dinner din-ner she extends her hand to the person among her guest she most wishes to honor, and says "Geaegnete Mahlzeit," which means bless tbe meal; aod tbe greeting greet-ing goes all around the table, each oue pressing forward to take tbe hostess' hand. Any one who should leave the dining room without aaying "Geaegnete Mahl-zeit" Mahl-zeit" to tbe hostess would be considered very rude. We make this little politeness take the place of dessert, and try to think that our dinner has satisfied us. Aa we can not be at home to the second breakfast, break-fast, we have asked (or eggs at tbe first, but having had them daily for a week I must negotiate a change of programme, or I cannot look a hen in tbe face. We take our German laeaon at 8.30, for an hour, in tbe morning, after which, start out sightseeing. sight-seeing. Picture galleries aod museums muse-ums are not open before 11 o'clock, and some of them eloee at 3. Here ia my weefc'e work. Last Sunday we went to the English chapel, and as we read tbe service and listened lis-tened to the epiBtle aud gospel for the aecond Sunday after Trinity, our thoughts reverted to the little, loved St. Mark's, where our dear friends would read and listen to the same words. Monday we viaited the park and schloaa, or castle, at Cbarlottenburg, with its beautiful mausoleum where lie interred the bodiesof King Frederick Freder-ick III and Queen Louise. The statuary by Rauch ia most beautiiul and impressive, and if, aa aome writer has aaid, "Architecture ia a frozen poem," thia mausoleum might be fit tingly described as a "frozenepitaph." Tuesday we went to tbe Ravini gal lery, a private collection of originals, some of great value. Wednesday we staid at home during the heat of tbe day, and towards evening called upon Mrs. Davis, the wife of the American minister, a most charming lady, with polished manners. Both Mr. and Mrs. Davis received us must courteously, cour-teously, and I should have enjoyed a longer call so ready did they seem to give any information regarding tbe peculiarities ot the country, but etiquette required thai our first call should be ery short and formal. Juat as I was trying to draw nut Mrs. Davie on tbepiobable policy of Prince Bismarck towards Turkey, other callers entered and we withdrew. The Daviaes live iu good style, and do credit to their country in this land of nrinces. Tburadi.y we made our first visit to the museum and lonked haalily at the statuary and some of the schools of pictures which are instructively classified clas-sified according to style, or technically, technic-ally, "school." A young English lady who had lived hure seven years as an art student, pointed out to tin beauties and defects, aud translated tor me tho German catalogue while El. attended to Em. and M. More than ever d'i I realize what an education the Centennial Cen-tennial waa to me, aa an introduction to what I am seeing. I am continually contin-ually coming across familiar pictures, and when at Babelaburg palace, at 1'otsdum, I exclaimed before the pic ture of "Christ Weeping over Jerusalem," Jeru-salem," "I saw one lik that at Philadelphia," the gentlemanly ens tellan told me "thia picture was there." And tbe vanes I 1 saw at Charlotte lburg achloss a room full of Chinaware aud Oriental enameled disbea of every dceciiption, presented tiy the emperor of China to King Frederick William IV, that would make our learned ceramic friend, .Mrs. R of New York, wild with delight. There must have been a ahip load at least, and in every room, upon scud cos and pedeetaU, were vanes, punch bowls, salvers, etc., two hundred years old, some few remarkable remark-able tur their age aud rarity. Friday Fri-day and Saturday we spent at Potsdam, Pots-dam, leaving Berlin at 9.40 a.m. and returning at o p.m. on Saturday. Our fare to and from Poujdain by rail thirty miles carriage hire for uiue hours, fees to porters and guides, board and lodging at a finst-duss ' hotel, and refreshments hut ween meals, cost Ud eighty marks, equal in our eurreucy to id each; aud tor thia $5 we saw the interior ot seven palaces, three churchea, rode through beautiful beauti-ful parka, and Baw more art than I could describe in a week, even with my limited understaudiug and appreciation, ap-preciation, or rather capacity, lor I am sure I understand more than I can tell. Everything that unbounded wealth, refined taste, exbaustleas reeourct.'s and exquisite handiwork can contribute con-tribute lor tbe pleasure of man, seeiua to have been collected for the ornamentation orna-mentation of the interior ot these palaces. Tbe New Palace so called built by Frederick tbe Grat and completea in 17G9, haa 200 rooma, among which is a gulte aa.r..ni, entirely lined with shells aud crystals, ametbysU, cornelians, etc., and is marvelnualy beautiiul; and a marble saloon 100 feet long, entirely of ! diflerent marbles, which reminded me of the vestibule of Memorial hall at Philadelphia, only ttiis ia much more perfect and satisfactory. All the floors of these palaces are either marble Mosaic, or wood Mosaic, and the Utter are bo highly waxed that the unaccustomed toot must tread very firmly to avoid slipping. Can this not be one secret of the stately tread peculiar to royalty and the lords and ladies ol the olden tunes ? j I fancied that the picturesque old woman guide with a black lace shawl j thrown uver her head, and who looked ! so like a duchess, bad caught her grand air - from the portraits she ; uamed eo glibly, and her dignified manner from the very necessity of uever forgetting to preserve her centre of gravity. Some of the atone etair-cases etair-cases are worn so smooth that they are unsafe without carpets, and in descending others we all held ou tu tbe railing to prevent slipping. Aa I intimated we visited at Potsdam Pots-dam seven palacea. The New Palace completed in 1769, San Souci in 1747, the Orangeni ia 1850, the old Bublosa ! erected iu 1GG0, the Marble palace in j 1796, Charlotten haf in 1B'J6, and ; Babelaburg in 1848. Although it is ' decidedly not the thing to bav. vet the I truth is that tbe nearer we get to our . own times the more I am interested, I aud the more really beautiiul art seema to me. The iron chair made by Peter the Great, is in my mind, uclipsed by tbe wooden chair made by the crown prince of Prussia, Prus-sia, for the latter has a living interest which one can feel, and brings the I prince down to a human level. At Babelaburg, the favorite reaidence of Kaiser Wilhelm, we were shown his suit of rooms with bis bed, a simple i hard couch, juBt as he slept in it only the week belore, and just as be proba- , bly slept in it tbe night of the day we I were there, as tbe servants were ex- I peeling him every hour. His writing desk was juat as he iihpa it. liLterefl with minora I and like any private gentleman he haa about him, little gifts, aouv ! enira, ruga, tidies, etc., worked by ' the ladiea of his family, by whom he ia very much beloved; and in an ad- , joining room are trophies of hia valor ' and skill as a hunter a hisoo's head, j antlers, home, claws, etc., very taste fully arranged. The rooms of the ! great Humboldt were very interestim; 1 the deak where he wrote "Cosmos," his library and his bed chamber, furnished with blue aud white ctiiulz, in imitation of a tent, and two iron, single bedsteads, one of them for his servant. The first time we enteral a palace we found great difficulty in understanding the guide, who upon ushering into a room immediately commenced to give the names of pictures, etc., giving purticulara about eaeh one, but after a week's experience expe-rience we are now able to keep the Fredericka and the Frederick Williams Wil-liams distinct, and to partially dispense dis-pense with E 's aid aa an interpreter. inter-preter. At Babelsburn the young yirl who guided ua apoko Englisli; a!l the other guides have spoken German. Thia is an excellent scuool, for my intense desire to understand quickens my preception. San Souci is beautiful beyond descriptien. de-scriptien. The old schloja of Frederick Freder-ick the Great hB great historical interest. in-terest. Here are Voltaire's rooms: also the rooms ot Frederick William Wil-liam 111, aud the lonely Queen Louise, whose pure tace hnunts the old palaces as an oflset to the sensual beauty of Barbenini, the favorite of Frederick the Great. I was charmed with Poind am, and should I go no farther in Europe, I am already paid fur my journey. Tbe teiracea and fountains of San Souci are something to dream about, and the mausoleum with reclining figures ol Queen Louise and William 111. by Rauch, impress me to teara, not aa Mark Twain wept at the tomb of Adam, but with intense emotion caused by overwhelming power of divine art and beauty. The Garnizon Kirch Ganison church contains the remains of Frederick the Great and his lather, in a large vault under the pulpit. Frederick William lies in a large black marble sarcophagus, and hia great son, who was a very small man, , is encased in a email one of zinc. A light ia always burning in the vault, anal the church, which waa founded for the use of tho Ganiaon, seems a filling monument over their heads. The pulpit is by far the finest I have seen, though I am told that I will see many surpassing it in Italy, It is of gray marble, and upon either side hang French flags captured in 1H18 15 and iu 1870-71. We saw the church just after sunset, when tbe shadows and reflections aro beautiful. After viewing all Ihreo art Ireaauren r and evidi uei a ul Idyll culture I hav; a f-roater respect Hutu ewr lor royalty, and iu tuy present mood might utter nnu un republican hfntimuut upon the benefit to mankind til centralization centraliza-tion ol power, t'Ut I will epre you. Thia mornim: Sunday I hnve attended at-tended a real German Lutheran ' church, about which I mint tell you in my ntxt no, for fear 1 forget it, 1 will now. The congregation waa large aud very devout, with no possible pos-sible pretonce to slyio. We sat in a seat with the familiar name Van Buuaen on a ailver plate in front, and as the day waa very warm I gently fanned myself. Very Boon, hearing hear-ing a Blight exclamation ot anuoy-ance anuoy-ance from my left hand neighbor, neigh-bor, I looked up and noticed that ahe had cottou iu the ear towards to-wards me, so I moved the offending lau au far from her as pesaible, and continued to fan Misa M. and myself, moving my fan in an arc of not more than two inclu'fl. Pretty eoou the woman rose and wont into the seat in front, and I settled myaelt back to pay atrict attention to the Bermou to aeo how much of tbe German I could un-deratand.depeuding un-deratand.depeuding ou my fan to keep me awake, which same thing I have done before now when listening to sermons iu Engliaii. Another woman in front leaked around at me, ao 1 found myaelf becoming the centre cen-tre of attraction, and as my fan waa evidently the cause, I, for the first time, noticed that in that sweltering heat, with every window cloaed and door to I was the only person with a tan. Iu our country every man, woman and child would have been fanning IbemBelves under such heat; but if there is anything any-thing horrible to a German it is air in motion, or what they call a draft. In thia sweltering heat car windows are kept closed, and the omnibus windows are not made to open, excepting oue small aperture eight inches square on each Bide, which wiudowa are not to he opened at the same time lor fear of the "draft." At the cloae of the sermon, of whioh I understood enough to pro nou nee it strictly orthodox, tbe woman in front of me rose, took up her prayer bonk and parasol, aud turning around, addressed me in German in an audible voice, to which speech I gave pomt blank attention, never wiucing. Misa M's face grew red, and alter we left the church she told me that the woman pronounced me ! very irreverent, and Baid that if I I "wished to fan myself I should go to , tho theatre ard not to church." The 1 angry woman left her Beat, and I felt pniriewhat uncomfortable for fear I had done wrong, and I was very glad the girla wero not with me, fur ihn ' way they keep tlu ir fans Hying would have driven tiie whole congregation j traniic. Ouly the other day in a full omnibus E was requested to keep her tan still, which modest request, to tbe surprise of German authority, Bhe declined de-clined to grant. In thia 'church waa a sounding board i,ver the minister's head, which waa so ornamental that it suggested a remedy for the needs of our Methodist friends in Salt Lake, it being a style that would well suit their church. If what I heard here was a good sample of German congregational con-gregational sinking, I can only say that any Methodist church in America can sing belter. The organ was large aud well played, but the dragging ol the singing all over the house was moat patulul to the musical ear. I Iu my next I will try to tell you more about life in Berlin, prices, etc. A letter Irom Mrs. T. R. J. of Salt Lake haa just come from Loudon, and ahe will join us in Switzerland, wheie we Bhall probably be when you read this. E. G. H. |