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Show OUR FASHION LETTER. SllIKLEY DAEE DINCCSSES THE bl V LKS. (COliHE'il'GMDHMCS OY Til E UMtALD.) New York, April 22. New Hull aud BountU. The crowd of new and pretty things out Lhih month is an eujljarrasmuut, lor spring and summer supplies meet. The Dhapes of bonnets and rouod hats, which at first were quite formal, show several piquant innovations. Tbtse outfit to be truly artistic iur they tol-low tol-low the inudels to which great painttrb have given their oamec. Ar one extreme ex-treme are the Flu bens aud Titian hats, their high crowns and brims looped up at tbe side by a oUsp aud k-uihur, forming a difficult sljiu aud one that needs grace, vivacity and youth to assert its success. Tbe luw, picturesque cap with softorown and close upturned sides is imitated from the portraits ot Kauhael Sanzio: and tho Miehael An- gelo hat traces a dim resemblance to that worn by Florentine Nobles. It is renaissance outline overlaid by Parisian plume, ribbon and Frou-frou veil. Tho Marion Delorme a small hat with i rolling brim set on the extremity of the ohignon is one of the latest favorite novelties worn by the fortunates who have just returned from abroad, Tlie Trimming of lSoimets Grows simpler. The eommoneBt wny and one that is stylibb ai the same nine, is to wind a band of moire, or wide, thick, plain ribbon around the crown, with a large triple bow at the left taking tak-ing up the entire side of tho bonnet, leaving very long or very short, wide ends to fall at the back. Whore the train turns up one side, the triple bow is placed on that to hold it, and a mixture mix-ture of loops and ends Jails behind. Puffs and drapery of gauze, malince tulle, or crepe lisse are Been at the back of stylish hats, while the front trimming trim-ming is ribbon. Small English bonnets, bon-nets, precisely like sailor hats with turned up brim of the smallest sort, have tho orown completely covered by the flowers that are massed upon it, and trail in heavy branches down the ends of ribbon behind, loops of which appear undor the margin of tbe flowers. flow-ers. Bolcaus and plaites of velvet, triple rows of crepe ploaling, or tiny wreaths of flowers lying on tho hair, aro tho face trimmings. Large flowers of a single kind, artfully shaded with each other, are gathered high at the front of the orown, or low perhaps undor tho brim behind. Large Roues, Of evory color blush, purple, straw, crimson or thick treBses oi dark Par-meBe Par-meBe violets, lall from tho back of the Rabagas hats those shaped whioh turn up before, are pinched up at the ears, and slope down behind. Lace is little worn on vigorously stylish bon-netB bon-netB except as a square fall behind. Veils of dust-grey crepe lisse with fine sewing - silk fringe tied on the edge, are the newest and in the best taste, as they soften the light instead of reflecting it like the shining silk gauzes that were landed lan-ded awhile. Boih Bquare and threo-oornered threo-oornered veils in crope and lace are worn, though the former are preferred, as they ibid completely over the bonnet bon-net and protect it, always placed corner- wIho, the most graceful way of wearing : them, The black laae yeil is not so I much seen sinoe the winter, except to I cover passie hats. Aigrettes too, make way tor uprignt bows, high nowers or pins of jet or silver. White straw or chips are the popular hats. Pfpss Material. There is delightful variety of mater-1 ial for dress this season. In most of the wool goods for traveling and street suits, a coarse, lightly woven appearance appear-ance is preferred, as in the oasimir beiges, whioh are scarcely heavier than a wool delaine, though- they have the twill of men's coatings, from the wide cheviot to the fine eassimero; in a limited lim-ited range of light cloth colors brown, fawn and grey. But theso have a stylish roughness, effective in opotrast to silk bands and the fine fringes whioh are used. They are single width goods, costing from 75 cents to $1.25 a yard. The old fashioned de bege appears in very fine qualities, making a most serviceable dross, for 85 cents a yard. Vigogne in loose twill like very soft ooarse cashmere comes at 75 cents, in all the bluish, greenish, olive, bronze and lavender shades. The real vigogne is charmingly soft and in double width costs $2.75. Camel's hair oloth of liadit quality for summer has limited but effective shades, of which the ohoioest is the yellowish white, to match which a camel's-hair lace like yak is woven, Ecru and brown arc oftcner seen and have heavy laces to match. The dycdcamelVhair cloth in olivo green is not so stylish as the natural shade?. The price is $3 to $3.75 (widowidth). The ecru and white oloth, with the soft, thick, sicilicone silken, clinging, and lpvoly dispute the palm ior polonaise fabrics. The latter sho xs every delioatc, oharming color; but tbe same taste might hesitate hesi-tate between a slender polonaise of lilac sioilienne embroidered in light and dark obades of its own color, with deep, fine fringes; and the same garment gar-ment in white camel's-hair olotb, almost al-most a skeleton, with insertions, borders, bord-ers, aDd edgingB of richly patterned lace A Wrap for n I'rliicem To wear. Tho siciliennc is $3 to $7 a yard, according to width. Neither frille nor gros-grain is the loading variety in plain surfaced silks, but the oachemire do soio, which is not twilled, as its namo might imply, but a thick Bilk, fine and even us taf-fetta, taf-fetta, demi lustrous, soft and pliant as oashemero, and less ablo to cut and orease than cither of those above named. Tho best brand of this Bilk is $2.25 to a yard, that at $3 being handsome as most ladies need earo lor as a street dress. Tho grey striped silks aro 87 cents to $1.50 a yard, and fancy stripes $1.50 to 2.00. Plain silks in street and evening colors aro $1.75, $2.00, to $3.00-all of good wearing qualities. In silk-surfaced goods, the pongee serges ore vastly improved, light silvor greys that reflect the Bun like sheets of glass, and dark iron greys, both having tho same fine softness that will not easily deface or crush (price $1.25). The satin striped make handsomely for polonaises, with plain undcr-skirts. This reminds as of the FjKjiilslte French Fogt:j In soft tints of spring grccn.wnter blue lemon or citron oolor, gris pearle, violet, gosling green, (the callow buo of young geeso),and soft pigeon shades, both pi un and with polka spota, or as, the French oall them.apois pea spots a phade deeper than tho ground. The flowered pongees remind one too ; nearly of the Dolly Varden which surfeited sur-feited the publio taste, to be appreciated appre-ciated ibr their lresh, Bpring-like beauty. Dresses are more simply mado, thrcc-fourthfl of tho latest designs having long, plainfpkirts with trimmed polonaise. This change is much for ' the better in every way an it permits nicer dressing, a coitume of rich materials in simple Etyle costing really less than a much trimmed one of cheaper cheap-er goods. London and Paris designs of the highest authority shew house and carriage dresses with demi-trainedskirt, a deep flounce oo the front widths only, finished by large bows where it ende, having sometimes neither basque, overdress, nor train. The extreme elegance of this fashion in Silk, SMln or Velvet, Needs to bo seen to be appreciated; and it is becoming in woollen stuffs of nice quality. For the street, dresses are as long as possible without sweeping sweep-ing tho ground. A few even of these have plain skirts, but in all cases the choice is pretty evenly divided between fl moces (not rofde) and flat bands. The latter are a finger deep, of silk, velvet, or the same material as tho dross, and usually have piping folds or arc corded. Cashnierc,and wool goods of all sorts, when of dark color, havo bands of silk with piping fold of the cloth or cord of satin, which is used Hgain for cording only, its effect is so good on cloth- Silk is trimmed with it.elf, or velvet, with piping pip-ing fold of Filk. Silk-laced good", like pongee, pergc, etc., have hands of the same corded with satin, which is sera on grenadines and thin good". The upper-skirt or polonaise is either lriugi-d or e Ig.'d with flat pleating, or folds which will not crush. When the dress in fully trimmed, one deep flounce just b.'Iow the knee is offuest worn, or two, of ten inches each. Flounces are always full, gathered gath-ered instead of pleated, though a deep one in box pleats is yet stylish, and have a heading of baud, velvet, or a large puff and milk. A lrlty Suit Is fine diagonal, either silk or woolen faced, in silvor-ray, fawn or mouse color, tbe round skirt with two gathered gath-ered flounces, each headed by one band of tho Bamo, corded with satin; the round upper skirt with threo bands of tho same sort, and looped high very far hack at the side; basque with sharp square lapels open on the hips, deep square tUring cuff, and small shoulder oupe falling open in 1'ront, moderately pointed; this and the basqun finished hy satin releaux on tho extreme edge, and three farther from it like the skirt trimming, with or without the bands. With this in worn thollaphael hat, faced in corded silk or velvet, with gull's wing on the left, and plume curling on the crown and drooping behind. The striped gray silks aro always serviceable in spring, and form ladj-likc ladj-likc costumes, but there is sometimes a difficulty to koow how to make them seem stylish, and modest at the same time. The mode this season is to mako them with alternate flounces of black silk, but this is not a happy style, rather too conspicuous the length of the street. A prettier design is a skirt etcav.ihg tho ground, with one bias gathered flounce thirteen inches deep, edged and headed with two - inch velvet which may be out or ribbon black, or which is more delicate, gray or lavender. With this a tiuht polonaise of the silk, with plain border of velvet, a nanow vest of plain velvet applied and buttoning button-ing in front, strap, ono and three-quar ter inches wide.passing over tho shoulders, shoul-ders, forming a collar behind and ending end-ing on the scam of the polonaise below tbe waist in front. The polonaise is looped behind with fan of silk edged with velvet lalling over tho puff. The sleeve is very long with plain cuff of velvet pointod over the nand. White straw bonnet, trimmed with a twist of the samo velvet and groy Bilk, relieved by old silvor ornaments or small flowers, flow-ers, hawthorn, honeysuckle, or corn-blossoms. corn-blossoms. A model for A 1'Ialn Costume May be of any fine wool, twill, serge, cashmere, or even of the silky sioilienne, sioili-enne, with slightly sweeping skirt, trimmed with fold of bias silk a finger deep or more, eight inches above the edge, with a small band of heavy rep silk ibr headiog, and two similar bands above it at equal distances apart. The difference between bands and folds must be noted here, the f'olij being laid over a stiff lining, and the lower edge not caught to tho drews; while the bands are blind stitched Hat. Around upper skirt aud dolman jacket of the material, havo tho same trimming in graduated widths. Charming Trimmings- Trimmings are new and charming. Tbe buukies of pearl and old silver to bold tho large bows of moire and velvet wuicn give suon an air io aresses, yaft and guipuro of many shades, and prices from twenty cents to $3.50, in new designs of compass and rose and star patterns, or Moorish fllagreo with muoh tilling of tbe beautiful picot stitch, and floss embroideries em-broideries in shades outlined with silver sil-ver thread sometimes are -seen on imported im-ported drcssee.Guipure and yak arc used in a new fashion as insertion with beautiful effect. The lace is sewed on the border, the cloth out away beneath : and the edges bound, leaving an ex- ' tromely airy and graceful finish. The new cashmere and camel's hair wraps are eztcneively trimmed in this way. Not only tbo straight edged insertion proper, but wide, scolloped lace is put on this fashion, another row finishing the edge. Guipure is let in all . the seams of a tight princess polonaise, making a Moit Fauci ful Uarmeut. Upwards of thirty-six yards of wide yak or guipuro aro used on one polonaise, polon-aise, having eight lengthwise insertions inser-tions on the figure and two rows of insertion in-sertion on tho lower edge beside the border. Fringes aro of fine twist, as thickly made as fine, or equally fine crimped sewing Tsilk with beautiful fancy net headings. Soutache embroidery em-broidery takes the place of passimen-tcric passimen-tcric to a great deerco, though the soutache loops so liko passim CQtcrio that one hardly knows tho difference. Again in any 7 fringes are tied on the garments. Much fine jet and bead embroidery of filled patterns is seen on evening dresses. Light marabout borders bor-ders in natural gray, look liko eilycr fur on rich dresses, till a broath of air makcB them fly open like captive mist. Tho close-fitting long polonaise, draped each side of the tournnrc, is the most graceful, and therefore the preferrod garment of tbo season. Basques have become much prettier than thoy wero, but they will not catch the eye that has once seen tho slim charm of the polonaise, polo-naise, By tho way, tho namo of this garment is Dot prQLpunccd as many people inflict us by saying, polonay. French accent occasionally gives a final syllable its duo force The longer basque, tho jacket with heart shaped open neuk, ifttinjr tightly, but out away so that it only clasps at a single point on the bosom over an embroidered vest of siuilieune, and forming a close jackot waist behind aro variations dear to dressy minds. Tbo gleiidcr. French Mantlets Of black cashmere and sicilicnne, folding across the front, fichu fas' ion, are dainty w th rich guipure insertions and borders, and a tiny hood-like kerr chief of silk is at the throat of some. The Dolman, heavily beuded and embroidered em-broidered is seen oooe in a while, but is remanded to wait for autumn, Everybody who can afford a French camel's-hair shawl buys one, especially since tho aid of machinery has brought tbo price of shawls, choice in pattern and color, which wero once $25U down to $50. There aro white yak lace jackots, in elaborate guipure designs, which have warmth cuough for spring days as well (id lightness for summer, but theso aro at least $75, and our belles may be magnificent, if thoy cannot can-not bo fanciful sumotimes. Shihley Dare. |