Show HATS LACES AND BOWS The Opening Season Will Become Famous For Its Wealth i of Laces J New York March 16 Looking the I shops over and interviewing the dressmaker dress-maker will only serve to strengthen the conviction that dais season is to become be-come famous for its laces Hats as well as gowns parasols and pettlcoatshave not escaped the contagion and it is a cheering assurance to give that never have the imitation weaves been as beau I v a t1 q 3 Jt 1 fj t lit li f t r r a6 r c kJ fa r WsMi k a 8 r l Im It I By 41UI11y Il p Illlf r i rr the 1 tP I APRIL GOWNS tiful and successful as this year Ecru guipures imitation heavy bruges and lain the costly Russian lace had the way in trimming summer wool and silk fabrics fab-rics while a clear linen point mechlin and all the grades of lierre have assumed > assum-ed the duty of garnishing our muslin gowns Point de Paris point desprit and antique Valenciennes are considered consider-ed the trimmings par excellence for underwear un-derwear and yellow cherry and creamy maltese are certainly not lacking in purchasers This revival of interest in lace is shown by the unlimited numbers of net dresses we are invited to wear white every one whether black or elaborately treated with lace effects DRESSES OF NET There is nothing that will so clearly demonstrate your claims to uptodate ness In matters of dress as the owning this spring of at least one net dress over a colored silk The net ought to be black of the coarsest silk mesh and rather wirey but elaborately interwoven inter-woven with a heavy black silk thread in elaborate lace designs As the net all shaped and decorated In a perfect skirt pattern is made up for sale the composition com-position of the dress itself is not difficult diffi-cult One needs only to buy and have the dressmaker prepare the under silk slip of taffeta the color of which preferably pre-ferably should be strong and clear Lron this the already shaped and seamless net overdress is placed and the result is an admirable gown for all dressy occasions It Is possibl to buy wool net skirts similarly arranged for combination with colored silk foundations founda-tions or complete shaped skirts of black guipure in wool or silk treated with chenille or black sequins With every skirt of this type is sold endugh figured net in the piece to form the body necessary and if one wishes to touch the crest of fashion there are purchasable the most lovely shaped overdresses of black chiffon or stout black tulle exquisitely decorated with designs in black spangles Such a skirt can be applied to an underdress of any color and the effect is a gown of wonderful won-derful magnificence for we seem only just beginning to learn the true uses of spangles Since the spring stock has everywhere been opened spangled trimmings trim-mings have come promptly to the fore as the most prominent feature of the season The black or colored sequins are usually laid down on a foundation i of delicate net or stiffened chiffon and i with great artistic taste the shining scales are arranged in the chromatic I range of colors and in patterns that fairly caress the eye Thrifty women need not fear that all I this loveliness is beyond their grasp for with the larger output of spangled goods the prices have altered agreeably agree-ably and it is possible to have a lovely I evening dress glittering with black sequins se-quins over a petticoat of cerise and sliver sli-ver taffeta and have done no violence to ones purse at the same time It is true moreover that numbers of women do their own spangling That Is the shrewd ones buy and make up a black chiffon skirt and taking this to an art shop have it stamped about the bottom in an upstanding decoration of flowers with a trail of birds across the fullness of the petticoat Buying their own spangles they then rapidly and deftly apply them by hand and the consequence is a flashing costume that has not been costly and is rather more likely to stand long wear than an expensive ex-pensive shopbought copy FINERY FOR THE NECK I Equipped for every occasion and r armed for any conquest is she who no matter how simply gowned wears an abundance of orthodox decoration at her throat As time goes on the scarfs and collars ruffs and jabots have multiplied mul-tiplied beyond jail reckoning and lend themselves to such amazing variations that they deserve serious consideration considera-tion With a few exceptions their materials mater-ials are chiffon and lace the chiffon recent creation In ruffs which by the way any woman can Inexpensively make for herself On a wide ribbon a deep shell ruche of silk muslin or taffeta taf-feta is gathered and in between the scallops of the ruche are set clusters of the fragile tinted silk rose petals one can buy by the yard at any shop But whatever the device used our object ob-ject now is to frame the lower half of the face in full flutings and no turn of fashion Is so advantageous and becoming becom-ing to women of all ages Yet In addition ad-dition to the fluffy odds and ends ap t J 1 1 v r tit If g l = 4 i t t S U i I I I9 11 r I yV WHITE PIQUE BlOCKS prettily colored in some pale tint and the lace applied on the ends is apt to be yellow cherry or quite as pretty and fashionable the faint yellow maltese mal-tese Now it is a matter of remark that no selfrespecting woman wears a scarf or a decorative collar or a bow without nestling somewhere among its folds a bright jeweled pin Those whose caskets are supplied by rich husbands wear big bright brooches sapphires I turquoises or emeralds set about with diamonds or pearls while less fortunate fortu-nate sisters make as fine a show with small scarfplns set in all Imaginable patterns and colors The neck scarf proper when made of net chiffon or liberty silk is measured long enough to wind twice about the throat and tie In a big front bow The larger the bow the better pleased is its wearer and now in order to make the best show of the expensive lace ends they are wired delicately and stand out like misplaced wings bright and high In place of the wired bow a great many adopt the crisp taffeta czarita bow It is a stock of gay thin silk with two accordion plaited fans of the same stuff unfurled to either side usually of a jeweled clasp or pin tome of these plaited fans are made of colored col-ored satin speckled with spangles or white satin treated with wee puffings of black chiffon v SMART RUFFS A variation on the above Is the most i I plied to the throat the dressmakers for lack of some newer notion continue to finish off the necks of gowns with Toby frills and wired Medicis collars at the back The latest spring Importations from Paris have two broad lace leaves flaring flar-ing far out back of the ears and held stiff with wire or to vary this the neckband Is shaped Into points that run up close to the skin and as hfgh as the lobe of the ear Independent individuals wear very pretty silk and velvet collars fitting the neck very close and decorated decor-ated with tiny tucks circling the throat These free souls let such collars plainly lap and I hook behind with no finishing bow or ace frill and at the back on top the collar gather a small ribbon I comb merely to protect the delicately colored neck band from contact whit I the hair u I AN IDEALIZED FABRIC I Fleur de velours is the name of the newest fabric all womankind is admiring admir-ing Brown blue green and red we have it in all colors and the weight and I quality of the goods is exactly that of moire velours Fleur de velours however > how-ever is not watered but shows instead a surface so full of rich light anti t shade that at a little distance it Is easily mistaken for mirror velvet 1 Striped foulards Is another interest of I the mcment and united femininity i agrees that It is pure extravagance to I I i buy any but the printed dimities at a price not above 10 cents a yard There I is also considerable emotion displayed I over the tucked parasols lately placed jon j-on view Undeniably they are taking with purchasers who want something durable and yet distinctly springlike I while equally favored are the parasols trimmed with frills of narrow satin I ribbon COQUETTISH MILLINERY A new hat bnm must be quoted It turns down on the hair at the back with a graceful little quirk that goes right to the susceptible feminine heart and the milliners are showing us how the flat of this brim is meant to b I thickly plastered with flowers mlxec white and blue violets for Instance since that is a combination seen everywhere every-where of late or a mat of variegated sweet peas The milliners without exception ex-ception are going In for picturesque ness of effect and oddity in color combination com-bination as follows Pale green and sky blue ribbon adorn a rich green straw hat turned down at the back with clear yellow cowslips A pale blue hat receives a trying decoration dec-oration of flaming wild poppies and silver gray silk or a mauve straw submits to a garniture of deep orange taffeta and palest pink carnations This tale in the telling sounds positively bloodthirsty but In demonstration the colors flow together with delicious harmony har-mony Every wide hat has a Louis XV wreath on it of small rosebuds or sweet peas or variegated daisies the wreath not larger than x the circumference circum-ference of a dessert plate and placed to Tall half on the crown and down upon the drooping featherweighted brim In accordance with this Arcadian tend enC en-C the decorated pins which fasten on the trimmings are small gilt crooks Fuchsias wall flowers and with their deep green polished foliage periwinkles peri-winkles are among the blossoms that have come into flowering since last week and a noticeable arrival in the milliners stock is the hat with two distinct brims One is set on the crown a half inch above the first or brim proper and it measures a good deal less in circumference Just what is the mission of this doubledecker it is a little hard to find out save that there is no notion more taking this spring than trimming straw with straw and contorting the edges of a hat with shapes beyond the range of the most unprincipled nightmare There is a positive fashion grown up in the last few weeks for chicken wings regular barnyard pinions with which to set off alpine and turban traveling shapes The humble domin Icker and guinea hen the flaunting red gamecock and modest brownclad spring broiler wave long and triumphantly tri-umphantly from many fine head ornaments orna-ments and holier is due to the women who have made the genuine chicken wings more fashionable than aigrettes THE EMPRESS SKIRT Which way ls the skirt tending Toward expansion If we are to take seriously se-riously the new foundation petticoats made and sold to wear under our spring suits This petticoat is called an empress skirt Is not very full composed com-posed of sateen ruffled scantily around the foot and literally boned from hem to waist The bones are really a pliable composition running diagonally along the sateen and meant to distend the folds of the dress skirt which it supports One or two spring costumes have come over to us with three reeds encased In the back breadth and every second woman wears a tuft of haircloth inside her placket hole If all these details are straws then the wind is setting In an I ominous quarter Tomorrow however take I can care of itself and today we are Ill chiefly enthralled with they best suggestions for making up ginghams and mtisllns etc An attractive new flounce for a cotton gown is made knee deep and then at Intervals of two Inches on the flounce are set narrow bias flutings Another interesting gingham costume In blue check had its entire skirt adorned with narrow folds of solid blue cotton stitched down in lines running back from points described on the front I width It Is a popular practice that trimming a figured cotton with tight flat folds of a solid color and the same Idea Is adapted to white muslin frocks White muslin is a gcods to conjure with this season especially if It is mado up with black lace or baby ribbon In silk satin or velvet A very chaste I little costume noticed was made of white lawn with a bell skirt having a narrow quilted ruffle along the foot and another running from the right hip ii diagonally across the front width down to the foot and so out on the back i breadth The edges of these two frills j were finished with narrow black ribbon rib-bon and the waist partaking also of the j decoration A chic cool and absurdly I inexpensive little habit was the result j I ILLUSTRATION i What can be accomplished with black velvet ribbon as a trimming Is shown In the sketch of the plaid foulard gown given this week In the original white foulard barred with broad blue stripes and freely punctuated with tiny black dots was the material the skirt made with a gored bottom edged with one row of inch wide black velvet ribbon accompanied by rows of baby width At the head of the gored half of the skirt velvet ribbon of baby width Is applied In an Irregular graceful pattern pat-tern and slightly gathered to convey the proper effect A gimp of white silk fills In the top of the pretty basque A gimp that Is pHssed as the French say or In plain English shirred Over every line of shirring a ribbon runs and a full toby rouflle bourgeons out about the wearers ears The front of the basque is shirred and trimmed as the gimp but the back with Its ribbon edged tails and the tiny frill of ribbon bordered foulard converging to the waist from the back is the distinctive feature of this study in spring fashions fash-ions Attention must be called to the sleeves with their clusters of narrow ribbonedged frills They are almost the last novelty to be reported and are highly becoming to a large or small armThe figure that accompanies that displaying dis-playing the foulard costume shows one of the ways of decorating an organdie In this case the organdie is a brave bright blue meant for spring garden parties and summer luncheons Its whole claim to charm and beauty lies in the garnishment of black Valen ciennes lace and a more effective feasible feas-ible not to say unextravagant trimming trim-ming could scarcely be imagined It will interest the mothers of families fami-lies in which there are toddlers to hear something of those practical summer i garments piquet coats This season the piquet has come to market in the prettiest pret-tiest shades of mauve blue and rose that harmonize rarely with 3yearold complexions The colors specified are represented in the three baby wraps given in the picture The rose colored I i coat Is trimmed with heavy maltese lace falling over pinked frills of rose colored taffeta silk and the mauve and II If 4 I r < j i V 1T3 jff V 1 t G r STRAWBERRY DESIGN FOB OVERLAY 1 blue coats are embellished with the rough ecru German embroidery that washes excellently and wears as long as the piquet Notable points in these childish wraps are their white leather belts and big silver plated buttons M DAVIS < rEEEE j i 0 7 j t i p Z a n 1 fT p r I t 4 l + 1VECS DECO1tAT10NS rl 4 L |