| Show > f lay Garlands of Eace o Draped On a Bone White Satin the Proper Tiling For August WardrobeTrianon Shape Will Prevail In Autumn HatsHSallyinourAlley Hat a Becoming Creation Non York Aug nThe art of dressing dress-ing well Is delivered Into the hands of the woman who knows the secret of varying and refreshing her wardrobe by many not oerexpensive devices In ugust the value oC this talent Is at a premium for now is the time when wear and weather have taken th j dfr ft crispness from the prettiest gowns A this writing lace seems the strong weapon wea-pon of defense In feminine hands against the depredations of hard use and hot das DurIng this month the mission or lace Is especially made evident evi-dent at the casino or country club dinners din-ners and dances that now celebrate the countless yacht races golf tournaments and pOlo games At suh fcstlvitle the sweetest gowns are more or leas elaborate lace bodices with the inval antI gracefully with one hand for the right member is absolutely required to hold the train wel above rude trampling tramp-ling heels Given such a skirt that In a good satin melts not in damp weather and crushes not in dry and wears always I a discreetly festive air the bodice Is I not of necessity in exact accord It cape cap-e of crushed chiffon though that or I I Indeed any wholly chiffon waist Is I quite demode and It can be of a colored col-ored silk or satin arranged judiciously I with dace The lace arrangement seems to follow always the form of handsome points so laid on that the bodice is not wholl decollette In nine uses out often of-ten the waist is a part of the shell of some dress already worn to the death and restored to pristine loveliness by the overlaying of points Ball Bonnets J 1t all the publiC and semipublic balls this summer gay little hear decorations dec-orations by courtesy called bonnets have made a brae and constant showing show-ing Two white ostrich feathers ending end-Ing rOnIIke about the head from a central jeweled ornamEnt Is one of the prettiest and most easily arranged types of dancing hat seen a small fl I capote fd black gor glided white tulle and a wreath of pink rose is another popular form while long leaves made of 1rld white lace edged with crimped bcbc ribbon trims the hair admirably The Trianon Shape Little by little news of the autumn maneuvers in dress filters In and unless un-less all accepted signs fail we will be in possession hr the new season of a hat that does and must turn off the face The small clostlittin flaring brimmed Trianon shape Is destined to I make itself a power later on though I I at present only the most advanced women wo-men are nearing It In felt or velvet it can hardly I fail to frame any face 1 becomingly and It II worn as comfortably comfort-ably with or without strings However How-ever after fighting strings furiously f the majority of women arc succumbing ito I i-to blandishments with a rush If j you Hill just turn countr wards the reason why cannot fall to be obvious Every second woman Is wearing a I Sally In Our Alley hat a thing that In I Its naked form would be called a rather I dowdy leghorn or chip ns black or ero white but under the new dispensation is quite a Islen of sweetness The wide caved hat Is spitted through and I through by two longleged pins that i make It fast flat on the head Round the crown Is laid a wreath or roses or I reed grass or a pair of not very fresh I ostrich feathers and then the crowning crown-ing glory of the whole is the strings The receipt for these Is about two yards of pearl pink or wheat yellow silk muslin net or chiffon hemmed at either edgE narrowly finished at the ends with lace and then in the middle I of this half yard wide scarf II drawn Into a full bow The bow Is fixed right on top the crown of the hat or on the brim behind and the lengthy sash ends of the scarf arc drawn down and tied I under the chin This is all the mot carefully prearranged coquetry but it Is wont with an all of half country simplicity that would do credit to Maud I Muller md best of all It Is distinctly becoming to the average young face Where Ribbon Ripples I Xo midseason mode has found such wholesale adoption as that of trimming cotton frocks with lacer or embroidery beading through which bebe rlh111 Is run There Is nothing new In the Idea but solely In Its application and Ire or the most Interesting evening drttTp3 for a youngish woman is a Swiss muslin skirt trimmed at the foot and again at the knees with a group f 11lher narrow llounces showing sllIiJped edge All these edges are rimnud with I Co Valenciennes beading through w1ih a pale blue or rose ribbon rlt11t A 100vnecketJ shortsleeved waist ttade entirelY of row on row or beaMn > intersected tersecte with ribbon Is ne happy contrast to the cloudlike skirts Around the shoulders of this quaint bodice all the ribbons debauch and tying In small bowknots Corm a tall Cringe or color colo-r ii 2 I Elbow sleeves and revers over the bust both made of ribbon beading usually completes such a waist that totid hardly fall to suit a youthful figure and coloring The New Neck Chain I After jewel and pearl set jet and crystal chains voracious woman weary I of all these has cried out for a novelty md as usual her command has been fulfilled Two new neck chains are already al-ready out at service and the effort or the jewelers has been to contrive something some-thing that cannot be instantly vulgarIzed vulgar-Ized by imitation One Is a long I and rather too heavy affair mad or solid oddly shaped and decorated links i of contrasted metals Platinum varl ous tints of gold and sliver and even I gun metal are worked together In thE r m rY K u J 3 t 1 t t r Ji SOME CHARiING EVENING BODICES = I iable and serviceable white satin skirt Not so many seasons ago the black I I satin skirt was thE backbone of every I I wardrobe whether for winter or summer i i sum-mer but white ivory 01 bone white I is the accepted rock of sartorial salvation i sal-vation at present It III made as a drop I skirt on a rather limp taffeta basis I I and the taffeta support Is neither stiffened I I stif-fened nor faced at the edges Just ahem I a-hem is run round the foot and one I threeIn wide scalloped edged knife pleated flounce set on the outside I Lace In Garlands Upon this descends the satin sheath decorated with a knee deep flounce of i tar = dd Pel kilted I white net ruched at either edge I and often adorned with Incrustations of lace That is one good mode for trim I minx The other Is to gather hip high In the scams narrow flounces of blond or Imitation point lace or to lay garlands gar-lands of lace on the surface of the satin Invariably a dip is given to the skirt behind and because of their trains women have learned to dance capably long series or stout quaiitt lInk and on this is fastened a bag or purse b soft leather In the evening the fan chain is a stretch of gold links punctuated with uncut turquoise with streaks of the brownish matrix stone running through the blue and the surface lest quite rough which touch of barbaric splendor splen-dor rather appeals to women than otherwise oth-erwise Both of these chains arc made In an endless circle no break in the lInk shows at any point and all thr keepsakes etc strung on them are made fast by means of small gold or silver slip rings In French Lingerie Very soothing to any soul sensitive to beauty is a glimpse at the novelties In underwear Already the specialties for the fall trade are putting forth antI it Is more than obvious that for anything like fine lingerie the French antI the felled seam are not used Nightdresses dresses widths of white petticoats parts of corset corers etc are all jnin ed by means ef embroidered beading White petticoats are net hunS on yokes any longer The top of the garment Is cut to fit the hips without a wrinkle and then merely faced with a narrow bias strip so that a large flexible waistline waist-line that sags rather on the hips is gained A button and buttonhole make the skirt fast in the rear On a number num-ber of the handsome skirts the deep lace fringed flounce Is fixed to the foundation by a beaded heading antI y some of these flounces show to what a tine point dressmakers have carried the art of giving the proper hang to the prevailing dress skirt Nothing underneath must impede the gracious sway of upper draper and yet 1n some cases where a certain buoyancy is needed underskirts or cotton t e worn showing flounces of white taffeta alternating with those of lawn The taffeta flounces of course are merely tacked nn to enable their easy removal re-moval when the petticoat goes io the wash You can turn over sonic hundred or more pieces of the newest lingerie from Paris and scarce a tuck will you find In their place yokes of chemise and flight dresses flounces ell arE > made up of insertions of lace and embroider ery whipped together Another favorite favor-Ite substitute for tucking is putting or we might call it halfinch wide insertions inser-tions or gathered nalncook between narrow lace or embroidery beading The pUffings an not onehalf so ditli cult tIJ put In as the baby tucks were brit the needlewomans gain is the washerwoman despair for It takes the patience of job and the hang or an artist to launder a puff trimmed garment gar-ment to the queens taste MARY DEAN |
