Show fASIOr S NEVI COQUETRIES Among Them Is tile Overskirt Now Mi AccomplIshed Fatt c fls Various DIsguises Tjjjj c I New York Nov 9Yas there ever a time when the doctrine that beauty unadorned un-adorned is 3dorned the most was more discounted than in this autumn of fashionable fash-Ionable grace The prevailing theory of modish beauty is not only to walk in siikattire but to actually ransack the ages and spoil the climes in order to add one more flounce or spangle to that hopelessly complicated problem the smart toilet At the present moment women are making their final and to be sure its a feehle protest against the overdress which from at ominous promise has grown all at once into a might fact There are dressmakers so secure in their faith that the overdress has come to stay that they will turn away a customer rather than male a skirt ithout train and draper Their argument ar-gument is that to turn out ro aIdfash ioned a garment as a straigh undecorated undeco-rated short skirt would be equal toan j admission of lagging in fashicls rear and it is better to lose a customer than suffer so deep a disgrace The cuEto i mer usually goes off ill a rage and imagining im-agining a vain thing to return humbly in a few days and order the inconvpn lent trappings that the old tyrant Fashion has decreed THE TOP SKIRT Then is no den ing that the overskirt over-skirt is a 1easant r1ef to the eye Town tired of straight lines and that a good many Wlmen are the bitter in lJols iJr the kinlly if un omfrtable ll1apenEs So far no hard and fast rule has bEcn made for the hanging of the I versklrts It may take the form of I tlounce5 put 011 in the Louis XV mode it can be a redingote or you can attach at-tach your extra frills to the long tOlls of your basque and thus cast the extra odght of wool or silk on your shoulders shoul-ders You can if you like revive the polonaise in whose honor as an all art und serviceable and graceful garment gar-ment too much can hardiy be said and you are advised to have your polonaise redingote or whatever you use of a figured goods over an underskirt of a slid tOne Tailors are elated over effects ef-fects in checks md Sc tch plaids upon plain material or they timid the overskirt over-skirt until it must be confessed that thata I a I f j cIt I I t 1 I4 f I 4it4k I T VELVET AIm rroIRE Ome of their new dresses are intoler tbly heavy It is better on the whole to rather Ight Shy of thb tailorsand trust to the Ircssmakers art for in silk or the I ightcr wools the overdresses are not so tard to carry though many are loaded lth jet on velvet 1nd the exaggerated I mbrolderies of the season AIDS TO HOME MILLINERrY I i In justice to modern art and xtrava nce in dNSs It must be confessed hat the Inventions for aIding women rho have not long purses or the ben J fit of accomplished artisans in the D LJi I k building of hats and gowns are multi p1ying without limit It Is perfectly easy to drop in at any gooii fhoP these days anti purchase not only a hat but the wired shapes and sewed velvet facing fac-ing or brim fold or binding also to procure aU the boWs needed and these made up by the most skillful hands and sold ata reasonable rate Ostrich and other feathers arc set forth on counters made up in charming pal1aches and clusters and caught by jeweled ornaments or velvet knots at their bases At one counter it is quite possible to buy a black brim made of a felt braid and at another a pudding Holbein or Rubens crown of any colored color-ed velvet or embroidered silk To put these two together to affix the requl site bows and place the plumage is the I simplest maneuver and no expenditure expendi-ture of labor or taste is required the hat fairly grows of itself and the price is just about onehalf that of a cIa penu trimmed y a milliner I A REMOVABLE TOP An enterprising hat designer is interesting I inter-esting the women with a theatre bonnet that deserves consideration It is a rather flat capote of velvet bows and I flowers and at one side is a handsome oriflame of ostrich feathers When the wearer of such a bonnet settles in her I orchestra chair she is apt to create consternation con-sternation in the playgoers behind but I as the curtain goes up she relieves their I I I sufferings by calmly uprooting the I I cluster of feathers and holding them in her lap until the curtain drops on the final tableau At U1Isshesettles her feathers once mOle Where tl1ey belong and it is alldone by means of a simple catch somewhere in the velvet bows and a few prongs at the base of the bouquet of plumes FQr a long period violets have had I undisputed reign as the flowers to be used in touching up black hats and in the making of little bonnets In the last week or two pansies have begun ito i-to assert themselVes and in a sort of joyous surprise oyer the pOssibilities of I this floWero are wearing them I 011 all sides A black velvet hat with a knot of yellow and black pansies against the hair where the brim fits is a most acce table novelty Lovely crown bonnets made all of shaded blue or purple pansle are seen at the play I and the art of the Iowermaker has j never been seen at greater perfection than in the coloring and shaping of these blossoms FLOWER BONNETS The enterprising attitude of the pansies pan-sies has set the violets on their mettle and if one wears them at all this cason one selects the tender blue pyianees violets or those strange reddish purple I ones that are copied after the Persian cviolets grown in but small quantities in America Most attractive among I the little flower bonnets are those made wholly of begonia leaves and blossoms I Coral begonia with its polished foliage is exquisitely imitated in silk and velvet vel-vet and more than ever is emphasis I laid on the heads of pins that fasten on such gorgeous little topknots With some of these bonnets they sell pins I with enameled flower heads to exactly I match the blossoms in the toque A Mauser bullet df highly polished gold or silver and tipped with a diamond spark is another oddity while most interesting of all are pieces of agate selected and cut to resemble as nearly as possible the ball of the human eye i and surrounded by a fine line of din mends Gold beaks of birds with a pebble of jade caught in the points and tiny tigers heads in the most brilliant i c Ii II i I I I MILLINF MASTEJiPIECES I enamel ate in true or mock gems the most popular of the hat skewers COLORED STEEL JEWELRY Last year gun metal was easily the dominant novelty in jewelry and sOple I handsome effects are still achieved by I sinking in its polished dark skin on i umbrella handles buckles buttons I etc tiny colored jewels or diamonds I Very soon however the public will find a new treasure in colored steel I By some process known to metalworkers I metal-workers steel can in the furnace be I dyed almost any color and marvelous greens blues and lilacs reds yellows and intermingled tones on steel are displayed by the thrifty jewelers A red steel watch with inwrought initials ini-tials in gold is a new and lovely trifle or a walrushide card case with won derful green steel bindings is the type of attraction for which women are forgetting for-getting even the precious metals Among the other coquetries of the moment are card cases of leatherinlaid with leather That is to say a flat cigar brown leather case will be fancifully treated with an inlay of small fruit and vines in green blue or red leather l Paris sends us these and some of them are small masterpieces A green case for instance will have a decoration af purple grape clusters or a wine red I cover may show in mirnature the apples ap-ples of Hesperides From Paris as well come card cases in the exact form of correspondence envelopes Where the point of the flap fits down a metal disk bearing the owners coat of arms forms the catch and locks the cards inFringe in-Fringe is a species of trimming that seenied to have been effectually cast aside hut of late considerable decoration decora-tion of fancy bodices etcj has been done with small ruffles of silk having their edges raveled for a space of half to threequarters of an inch This might be safely called a harbinger of frlnge just as we see indications on all sides oof the colored embroidery regain ing its place on handkerchiefs A smart little mouchoir of white batiste will have its edges cut in points and the points buttonholed with colored thread If this is not done then a small knot lof violets in the natural tints is worked in one corner and more unique still Is the owners coat of arms done in one corner in colors YElLS FOR WINTER BELLES Rather coarse black nets with flat squares and circles woven in the mesh seem to be popular at the veiling counters coun-ters where women agree to prefer black Veils with lace edges are re gar ed still as the detail of a modish toilet though on the whole a TIuslan net having a plain gauze band at the bottom and a series of tiny velvet balls edging the band is more of a haut nouveaute than the first mentioned Unhappily this season women elect to drag their veIls very tight over the face and pin them twice behind All the fullness of the ends is first gathered gath-ered Into a small knot at the back of the hat brim and then lower cloWn on J the hair the cUrtainlike folds are I drawn getheT and held with an ornamental orna-mental brooch This draws the net I tight over nose and chin and though it gives the head an exceedingly neat appearance it is very trying on the wearers eyes and complexion The girl who yearns after rosy cheeks has just discovered that one of the methods of securing the desired healthy glow is to avoid the round garter In place of the circle of elastic I she now uses a smart ribbed stockhTg that has not only an elastic top but gathers snugly about the leg just I above the knee without injuriou1y compressing the flesh Into the top of I the stocking two ribbon ends are caught and these when tied have ill the ornamental effect of the colored garter without any olts Injurio re I suIts Still another hygienic contrivance contriv-ance for the woman who is fearful that constant use of the round garter will bestow on her a red nose in later life I Is an attachment for malting fast the top cf > the stocking to the bottom of thedrawerjeg Two buttons on the jdrawers and two loops on the stocldngs I r 0 fi e make a neat attachment and great t comfort i thereby ensured aver i1 Paris brown is the color now I pushed most vigorously It is not on the whole a shade that the average I wQman looks her best in but a bronze I brown camels hall zlbelin with an interwoven line of plum color and I called toctoc is the handsome cloth that has been designed to suit all com plexions Toctoc or automobile is the name given since in th gay capital women have toilets especially designed for riding in their motor carriages in the Bois A genuine toetoo costume is usualy made with a 111ar1 mates the frOnt of which closes very snugly and has short flat cutaway tails on the hip American women who go golfing and skating and ariding in the parks I have taken kindly to the coatee just as they approve heartily of facing he wide or narrow brims of their dark felt hats with light yellow pale blue or I white straw ILLUSTRATIONS OF FASHIONS What fur and velvet and moire can achieve in the makeun of a toilet is shown in the single figure this week Blue de la reine isthecIorof the velvet vel-vet skirt over which falls a redingote ofpale blue moire picked out in dark blue dots A jabot of white muslin touched with steel blue spangles cascades cas-cades over the bust and from it turns back broad revers of chinchilla fUt fur ap ears on the sleeves anti the hat is all of steel blue velvet with big bunches of Persian violets at rear and I front The cape worn with this is of velvet that tnetches the skirt and lined I with white satin here is certainly no lack of character charac-ter in the hats this season as is shown by those presented in the picture What distinguishes anyone of these from their predecessors of other seasons sea-sons isdhiefly the daring combinations of materials and colors and the excellent excel-lent results gained thereby MARY DEAN I |