Show NEW SURILICE BODICE A Dressy Arrangement How to Cut and Make It The surplice bodice is one of the early autumn styles that all women will hail with a hearty welcome It is r + I + r 5 i CONSTRUCTION OF WAIST graceful and elegant in the extreme and suited to both the slender and the stout ° andrm y be adorned with any skirt L r v J r l f p j Tq make it requires two yardsand a n u u II iL t < flWJ q half of double width material It is suited to all soft woolen stuffs to soft finished silk crepesin short to anything any-thing that will cling to the figure and take graceful folds The tabs may be any length one prefers Some are made to knot and to fall to the hem of the gown some to fall only a little below the waist and some to the knees Whatever the length you determine on it has to do only with the tab or scarf the general directions are the same for all I First cut an ordinary basque lining I letting it extend only one inch below the waist and fit it with care Cqver the backs and underarm pieces as you would for a plain basque but cover the points with some contrasting con-trasting material laid in pleats or shirred and only so far as will make the vest Stitch all seams except the shoulder and first underarms and bone them with care then face the lower edge of the basque When all that is done cut the surplice sur-plice front Lay down the front of your basque pattern upon the table Over it lay a length of cloth as the diagram shows The line B D represents the selvedge of the goods The space A B should measure just two inches Cut out the armhole and cut along the seam line to the point E which should fall one inch below the waist line Slope the cloth to the point F the distance of sixteen inches so that at that point its width FG shall be eight inches From there continue to cut on a straight line to the end of the scarf so that it shall be of the same width from that point to the end A length of one yard and three eights from F to the extreme end66 inches from the underarm seamwill allow a knot and ends that fall nearly to the knee If you wish the scarf to be either longer or shorter simply alter al-ter its length below the point F Baste the simple scarf to the fitted bodice at the shoulder and at the underarm un-derarm seams which you have left unstitched Then stitch all together Bone the jI t tsr M f hi l THE WAIST COMPLETE underarm seams and press the shoulder shoul-der seams Finish the neck with a crush collar of the same material as the vest If you wish a dressy toilet edge the scarf with some appropriate fancy braid or fine passementerie Or if you have the time embroider same simple pattern or braid some simple device along its entire edge Both the latter styles of trimmings are much in vogue and either will make a tasteful elegant finish Use any of the drooping puffed sleeves Long one reaching to the wrist will be best for day wear full elbow puffs will be suitable for either eith-er dinner or evening dress When you wear the bodice button the undervest tightly in place then draw down the surplice front cross at the waist pass once entirely round and knot at the left side OLIVIA BELL |