Show I Daughters Eve TIlE AUTUMN MODES Gowns In Hose and Old Silver and Their Possibilities BIAHKITY Pept 13One of the most Interesting things in the way of dress to be seen at the European watering places Is the way women have learned to hold their own in fashion and in the charm of variety with two or three gowns against j j fnll wardrobes i L The study of how to do it has apparently r apparen-tly become a science A science born of a modern necessity For women are on the Wing most of the time nowadays and it isnt easy or cheap carrying baggage from pillar to post neither can a lot of gowns be comfortably cared for in hotel quarters or be anything but in the way in the most generous space allotted one in a crowded country house Wherefore you may see women of taste and fashion en voyage with a dinner gown or two and make them produce the effect of half a dozen Which matter which fin de siecc art should not miss of the attention of those who stay at home and have no more dinner din-ner gowns with the utmost resources of 1heir wardrobe around them and are further fur-ther in the embarrassing position of always al-ways being looked at by the same audience audi-ence HOW TO DO IT A chic and pretty woman is doIng it hue at Biarrity after this manner and the effect she produces is immense She has a silk the color of old silver now a fashionable shade of gray The skirt has on the bottom two small box plaitings of silk fringed rfi OLD SILVER SILK on the edge and headed with a band of steel embroided galoon The bodice is high for no woman who understands conventional ever wears in a hotel dinning room even a moderate decolette and has a net passementerie embroidered with steel laid on for a yoke and tho 4 fame material makes a wide soft belt The long sleeves have two rufflelike puffs at top each covered with the steel netA A pretty gown but its owner knows a thing or two prettier still Sbe substitutes substi-tutes for the bodice a blouse made of old silver chiffon accordian plaited and hang ing in a bouffant over the belt The neck has the standing collar omitted and the outline shaped to a slight point in front and the plaits held by a baud of steel paloon laid on and shaped also Another band of the same passes round at the height of the bust and the sleeves are in delicious soft plaited puffs that reach just over the elbow and end in a bracelet of steel galoon Over his blouse goes alit tie sleeveless bolero of gray velvet em broidered with steel It is ravishing But the resources are not yet exhausted Fancy thrown over this gown with the bodice first described a black transparency transpar-ency that veils it in part as cloud shadows shad-ows drift over a lake It is of chiffon accordionplaited a little affair that would take up hardly any room in ones trunk but which I have seen made the envy and despair of the casino It consists con-sists of a blouse falling a little bouffant over the belt without sleeves and cut inn in-n round decollette that leaves about two inches of ssam over the shoulders The lf fl9sk ROSE BROCHE SILK gray bodice is high of course The over shirt apparently in a piece with the blouse has its edges reaching nearly to I the bottom of the skirt cut in a fanciful outline of concave curves that produces a butterfly effect This psychelike frivol is clasped round the waist with a silver elastic coil which becomes in front two twisted serpents with emerald eyes Mightily effective is this dress and simple to a degree Make a note here It is because it is simple that it has so much effect If you trim the overdress with lace it would be ruined The other gown I spoke of is a rose colored broche dotted silk made with arose a-rose chiffon flcunco on the bottom headed with a satin ribbon decoration a sort of crisscross interspersed with rosettes the bodice is high with a little rose chiffon blouse over it made like the black one above except that it is cut in a square decollette A satin ribbon belt is tied in u big bow on one side the front and the sleeves have chiffon ruffles at the top headed by a complex arrangement of ribbon rib-bon knots that form a sort of epaulettes Eonetimes the blouse is omitted and in its place is wcrn a little bolero of white guipure lace I Have we not as I said in all this an endofthecentury WHAT BIAHEirr IS LIKE An art that has here a pretty frame A uperb beach runs clear out to Cape St Martin white banding the blue gulf of Gascony a casino terrace looks over from a threestory height like a Babylonian garden there is a great bathing estab lishment with a Moorish frontand terrace promenade six hundred feet long where the happy visitors dawdle the morning in one sore of bath or another like the loungers of Pompeii or old home A happy beach that is shielded in summer from heat by the wall ofthe Pyrenees and in winter is laved by warm seas Its season lasls all the year It is a favorite resort of the aristocrats of the Middi September when all other beaches are deserted de-serted is here a golden month Then Spanish and northern beauty mingle and then fact mere important a first airings airing-s jnadevof the autum Paris modes AUTtniJT STREET GOWNS The omen emerge from the bath to take their constitutional on the terrace all new made from the hands of Worth and Felix and whoever Wants the fashions has only to observe Here comes one of the newest wool costumes Ji is of morron diagonal the KKirt lull at bottom and untrimmed save far two seams on each side laid over and corded heavily and quite close together givinnr the effect of pan lsJiltle bolero 1 with flaring French rovers faced with velvet and three buttons and buttonholes on each side military like gigot sleeves I and a chemisette of marron surah laid in c C plaits like a mans shirt with a hem down the middle in which are set gold studs Chemisetts of this sort are the rage and are especially chick when striped across Checks are also n great vogue They have usually a high collar turned over with a ribbon passed under and tied in a square knot They are very English looking and go well with the fall wools A charming costume of claretcolored wool has three knifeplated overlapping ruffles on the bottom headed by a velvet ruche of the same color The bodice is crossed en surplice under a velvet belt and the shoulder cathers are covered by a wide band of galoon set with mock garnets gar-nets which runs well down the seam and well over onto the sleeve giving curious long shouldered appearance The same galoon is at the bottom of the sleeve The guimpe is of velvet There is a cape in three stories the alternating ones being velvet set onto a yoke with standing ruches embroidered with garnets I WOOL WITH BASQUE To cite one more an old silvergray wool is made from a round basque that reaches about five inches below the belt line and falls out soft like a ruffle but it is not gathered it is cut bias and the edge titched It is buttoned in front with mediumsized flat buttons and there is a belt of cream wool From the bust wide pointed revers turn back and with the collar are faced with cream wool The high chemisette is of black and cream striped linen The skirt is untrimmed This gown merits some attention for some details of it have not been seen before be-fore for a long time Note particularly the frank display of buttons and the little basque Straws show how the wind blows The details are seen only on occasional occa-sional gowns but heretofore they have been on none THE PURPLE RAGE Solfernio is toutafait a In mode and geranium is another color talked of by the milliners The violets you see still have it only they have grown redder I One would have said that nobody could have the courage to go back to town and renew the purple rage of spring It is well for us that we cannot see into futurity futur-ity Paris in June looked as if on in decomposition de-composition The same blight was everywhere every-where If you went into the new salon you saw acres of canvases of mauves and raw green and women looking at them in hats of mauves and raw green and one against the other these became confounded confound-ed and when portions of the color began to move you grew dizzy Then you passed into the street to recover and met the hatters man delivering an armful of chapeaux each done up in a paper of mauve and raw green Then you wondered won-dered whether you had strained your eyes or grown color blind But twas ever thus and a color must run its course COULEUR DE ROSE Nearly every woman now has a rose colored silk When the rose tint has a yellowish cast like that of Chinese porcelains porce-lains it is most beautiful I shall tell you of but one rose gown It was worn tne other day by Princess Margaret Mar-garet of Croye on the occasion of signing 1 her marriage contract She has married i the Count de Grammont This rose silk was cunningly broched with tiny roses in deeper tints of rose and was trimmed with flounces of Valenciennes lace and tiny ribbon rosettes of the deep rose after the Marie Antoinette manner Scotts heroine in Quentin Durward the noble Isabelle of Croye made her marriage preparations pre-parations more romantically perhaps than this modern member of the house but the odds are that she did not have a prettier gown FLORIANE BIEXS WEAR THAT IVOaiEN USE Rngby Sets in Dark dues and Heliotrope the Natty Wear The tie most frequently worn by I women is the fourinhand This has I gracefully changed in shape from the wide threeinch scarf in common use last year to the oneinch width that covers little of the shirt front and preeminently dainty None but the narrow are tobe worn by the tailor girl Those of the new style come in every THE rOURINHAND fabrio known to the cravatmakers Madras and linen have been the most popular all summer on account of their washable qualities and the fitness in wearing them with washed shirtwaists but now cool weather is here and the stiff shirt is giving place to the heavy waist and washties seem out of season with dark frocks One of the prettiest ones of the autumn comes in a grenadine with a silk cord running through it and is lined to give the essential body It is not over an inch wide until the ends are reached then it spreads out adderlike The narrow part goes around the neck pr collar col-lar and ties the knot then the side tie gracefully widens out in soft fullness and tucks under the vest or waist A clerk at a prominent haber dashers suggests to me that women may utilize their soft Windsor tiesthose that were used for the fluffy knot to a sailor collar and make most graceful tes of them according to this same fashion It suits a standupcollar far better than a turnover one for in the latter there is a certain space to be iilled which the new fourinhand fails to do JUST HOW TO TIE A FOUEINHAND Show me the correct way to tie a fourinhand I asked of a man whose faultlessly built neckgear is the guide and envy of all hisset HoldOut your hand hesaid cand watch me Wrapping the tie around my outstretched fingers he tied it according to the dia I II 11 I gram given here First crossing the long left hand end over the shorter passing it and crossing it again then running it up under and over the neckband bring ing it down and passing it through the loop already formed and then tightening it by pulling the under end which controls con-trols the neckband Now he said nothing remains but the adjusting and you do that by keeping the under end always taut and pulling the loop into place by means of the upper end HThere1 as the graceful knot was completed Thats easy enough c Yes I assented as easy to a woman wo-man as sewing on a button is for a man The knot should never swing he continued but hug the collar button closely this can be done by catching the underend down with a cravat holder to the shirtfront and this holder should be used always as it keeps the ends from slipping up and the cravat from sliding under around the ear HOW TO TIE THE FLAT BOW C Now my correct informant went on C I will show you how to manage the next tie in popularitythe long narrow cravat that was formerly used exclusively for evening wear but has become so popular with both men and women for everyday use because it fits admirably into the space left by a turnover collar So my handagain serving as model he crossed the ends of the tie as if preliminary pre-liminary to tying a regulation bow the under end was then formed into a loop the upper end passed over it then doubled and passed under and all the way through leaving an end behind to complete the neat flat bow This kind of tie serves many purposes pur-poses he went on j for if it is black it can be used for reception theatre party or dinner and while that doesnt serve for women there is one fact about it that will if any accident befalls her shirt front 1k I 3 l 4 5 J THE FLAT BOW either soot or rumple where she is not in a place to make a change she can easily convert this bow into a fourinhand and hide the defaced lineh or she can twist it into a sailors knot that has lived ever since the days of Pinafore l The broad Ascottie so popular when worn by Lillian Russell made of white pique seems to be going out altogether the tendencies are all towards extreme narrowness A NEW COLLAR Here is something new in collars said a woman to me yesterday The collar she held up was an exaggerated exagger-ated turnover the band high as an ordinary ordi-nary straight collar the turnover coming down and forming accentuated vandyck points in front it was fastened by two tiny gold buttons chemisette the collar was made on was perfectly plain tucks and frills are now considered quite bad form and only one stud is used This is an especially becoming collar to any woman with a long or thin neck for it makes the face look much fuller THE SMARTEST COLLAd The commonest collar worn now is the one button turnover it is made on a narrow band and can be either rolled in a Byronic fashion or laundered nut down either to suit the style of the wearer but the extra high turnover which I have described will take its place in winter styles WHY COLLARS ARE BECOMING OR UNBECOMING UNBE-COMING i Why tasked the owner of this new collar as I knew her to be an authority is it that some women look so dashing in this mans style of dress and why is it with others unbecoming More from the reason that some women wo-men dont know how to choose their collars col-lars to suit their faces than anything else she answered 1 A thin woman should never wear avery a-very low rollover collar it points out the leanness of face and neck too severely severe-ly Bnt too she must steer clear of a high standun collar one that cuts her chin and gives a great expanse of white next to her face for that too severely accentuates thinness She can wear the medium unobtrusive collar of either style snugly fitting i TAILOR BUILT I I say snugly fitting in her caseso many women are careless in regard to the collars fit All ought to be particular about the right size A stout woman doesnt want to wear a collar so tight that it will push all her neck up under her chin but the thin woman can wear her collarsnugas I said for on her it gives the effect the stout woman should avoid A fullfaced woman should never wear apolkadot tie and no longfaced woman should adopt dead white collars unless they are relieved by a dark tie and at the best they are never so becoming to her as stripes or solids in colors These finished myautocratic friend are some of the reasons but there are t many more THE RUGBY SETS The Rugby collar is the prettiest of the I new womens collars It is just an inch highhas broad stripes I and the corners are slightly bent out Especially pretty Rugby sets are brought out for those in second mourning both in narrow or broad stripes of black and when worn with a dull black silk fourin hand and small onxy and silver link buttons but-tons in the cuffs they are stunning As to cuffs whilethe link style is decidedly de-cidedly the more fashionable all the sleeves now being made are sosmall at the wrist that it is impossible to get link cuffs to fit For this reason the usual round cuff will be more popular than ever this fall and winter and the most attractive display dis-play of setswhich consist of cuffs and chemisetteare now being made in the shop The wide Byron rolling collars and deep cuffs are to be seen also for mourning mourn-ing houseWear these are especially pretty in lilac when worn with a black dress and soft Byron tie of lilac silk HARRYDELE HALLMARK epsom salts in not water It possible wherever acidity or bad taste in the mouth presents itself after The sulphate magnesia epsom salts is the greatest corrective of the afflicting gaseous state which tends to thick waists and prominent promi-nent poitrmes But you cannot take epsom salts or Vichy water more than one or two seasons steadily without feeling feel-ing the worse for them and the great thing is to correct the diet especially in the matter of bread We need a revolution revolu-tion in bakery but that is not a matterto be treated in any aside fashion The autumn holiday of a month at the seashore is the great beautifier and invig orant for women who take it I had rather stay iu town all summer in ample quarters getting fresh air by daily trips of an hour or two outside the city limits taking things moderately with the benefit bene-fit of good food and then enjoy September Septem-ber at Gloucester or Nantucket or the Maine resorts in my own fashion Thebes The-bes company lincerstill then you have choice of rooms and the sweetest changes of the year Take plenty of good novels which are such a rest from thought and secure a steamer chair to be placed on the local ferry boat or the veranda so that you can enjoy rest to the fullest extent Rest sitting upright Qn piazza chairs or the deck of a yachtis a very partial thing Lying dow in your own room is not half the good it is to recline on the pier or the deck just over the water where the sea wind fills your breath and blood and clothes where the tempered light adds its blessed stimulus and peace and the moist air works its quiet alchemy on cheek and brow To be toned up for the season I would arrange to have my long chair and wraps taken to some quiet wharf edge or the upper deck of some little steamboat and there spend days floating in thesun steeped air from morn ing till night reading writing a little embroidering sleeping as felt good After month of such life almost any woman would go home feeling and look ing as if her youth had come again Deep must be the wrinkles which defy the t < J |