| Show IM Daughters of Eve THE FAShIONS IN PARIS Flu de Sicclc Ideas in Dress und Life Avenue du Sfis de Boulogne Paris Jan 29It > grows more and more the fashion to stay in the country all winter win-ter which makes Paris socially duller than it used to be Its English this country house living liv-ing in winter and French society more and more studies the lead of those beautiful and vigorous women on the other side of the channel But the rench will hardly make a success of it for they scarcely realize the meaning mean-ing of solid English winter comforts The French are cicalas and live only for the summer But fortunately if they get frozen out they can pack up and go the Riviera or can even corne back into town as a last resource Meantime Paris is dull and dress has fallen into three categories for outdoor roughing costumes to drink English tea in and costumes for dinner all of these being indispensible to country house living in winter And dress so categoried the dressmakers dress-makers are devising of materials that range in weight from a Loie Fuller gauze to a Llama blanket for is not their clientele scattered from Cairo to Petersburg and must not they suit all seasons at once No wonder the Paris dressmaker stares when demand 14 j what novelties will come in with lhf > spring for with him the seasons do not come in and go out as with the rest of us but are always all present pres-ent at once All seasons at once are being prepared 5 prepar-ed for in the Paris ateliers but in one thing all gowns are alike whether thick or thin they arc all bordered with sable Everything is trimmed with sable even to a robe de nuit 1 was going to say or a kitchen apron In narrow edges it is sewed onto the flimsiest materials it has become a rage If I were going to advise one who would buy several wool gowns I should ray let one be of serge one of cloth and the other of black satin BLACK SATIN I FOR ELEGANCE AND UTILITY Black satin isnt wool but it falls intu the category and it will cover a multitude of wool duties and extend its u < 5 < fulieFs a good deal farther than uool even to the making of an impromptu im-promptu English tea or a dinner gown OP demand I do not wish to he persistent I think I hive recommended this dress Leforo but black satin is really worth consideration One of its merits is that n is black ahd French fashion is partial par-tial to black for outofdoor wear You i an travel up to town in it or wear it to the play yoa can drive in it or wear it to a steeplechase Which reminds TOP thta it was exactly at a meet that I saw the Countess de Montgomery in tInt lh other day and had occasion then to make all these reflections The countess was wearing over it a fox fur collar and it looked elegant and 3 ct not too fine fit a disagreeable d2 1 d2The Countess de Las Cases was at the same meet in a gray gown and Mark cloth cape the viscountess of Pampieire was in coslor cloth the Ountess Tyeskiewicz in dark blue serge and cloak of black cloth and all the hats were of dark felt or velvet of medium size and very simple Very simple this reads and was hut it is a simplicity mad noticeable by elegance refinement and hic When shall wet we-t Americans learn to put our 7innds on this important part of the subject of dressing well To let urn to the black satin it can l hp made entirely plain or it uill lake any amount of elaboration just as is t iZI1 N fT t MtiIXEI OUIS rleasd I have seen a new design for a bodice that would suit it ell for an pteqnoon visiting gown The front is turtief back in flaring rev vs over a wi plastron of black Brussels lace laid fv < r green silk A wide belt is drawn iund in wrinkles and covers the lower part of the plastron The revers are fated with jet embroidery jet jraloon is set round the armholes and the gig gi-g i sleeves have an insertion of black IHT ntr green set in near the top in mob a way as to outline the ordinary epaulette ruffle which is absent Note well this sleeve decoration it I is the newest idea QUINTESSENCE OF STYLE TO speak of wool veritable it is ont on-t p cloth gown that the Frenchdress maker leans at thIs moment his whole reputation It is in cloth that his newt new-t ld ° as are embodied cloth carries tbv very burden of style l and one mayas may-as well have nothing at tll as not to haw a cloth gown Here therefore is a model for one It is of marron There is along overskirt over-skirt drawn up a little at one side and skirt orid overskirt are bantered with fur The bodice is doublebreasted and passes inside the skirt It has large Jnnse revers of marron velvet that fall 4 square like a yoke and are sewed into the shoulder and armhole seams Deep r square yoke of velvet behind High guimpe of the cloth covered with bands of jet and a velvet stock collar edged with fur Fur borders the re vers and yoke Large velvet buttons are on the front a narrow velvet belt passes round it in wrinkles and narrow nar-row bands of fur are round the armhole arm-hole seams AS TO TRIMMING Cloth may be trimmed with fur lace Jet velvet but never with moire silk Never trim anything with moire It is not a good trimming material In small pieces as facings It Is hard and r I cold and frightfully trying to the cornS corn-S plexion In this matter of trimmings there Is one economic reflection it is worthwhile worth-while to make If a gown has no trimmings at all it can be worn a good deal longer and oftener than one that has For a garniture has a trick or fixing itself In the memory and be ctJmJng tiresome This Is because the garniture is probably bad art most trimmings are bad and unless you are up in the aesthetics of trimming your chances of being elegant are better if yon leave it alone Borders of fur of course do not count in this criticism because they are like the influenza everybody has them Resides Re-sides they often chance to be very good artAT i j AT THE THETBE krtI But Sardou andBemhafdt are left r fl i u C lr 5 r t < Y hl In Paris and where they are it cant be irretrievably dull A little centre of gaiety is furnished by Madame Satis Gene if it is only a mimic of liveliness gone by And it is quite worth observing that the Napoleonic Na-poleonic revivals nightly strutting Sar dous and other stages influences dressmaking I dress-making not the least in the world Empire dress it would seem is as dead asa door nail Your woman a la mode goes to see Sans Gene in a Jin dr iecle gown but it is not of the eighteenth century She wears perhaps a gray cloth The I smooth fitting seamless bodice is belted belt-ed with wrinkled satin and is drawn I into the satin neckband with gathers I The skirt is flounced with gray satin ribbon of sixinch width three j i I I overlapping flounces arranged in six i deep Vs The ribbon is not gathered i hut the turning of the corners of the Vs gives it fullness enough II is a I pretty garniture for afternoon or evening even-ing dress and I have seen it look well on black velvet Add silver for furs a black velvet coat and a jet or silver embroidered bonnet tIt FIN DE SIECLE It is hard to say what the world may eventually come to but some of the things we have arrived at are sufficiently suffic-iently startling to make one pause and wonder > The English certainly in much have the lead Last week when I was in London merchant whose West End portal opens to the cream of the elite 1 Vi7 BA GOWN not to say to rival patrons showed me the latest demand of women who are UD to date It was smoking jackets Made in Japan of silk pale blue outside and rose inside or mauve outside and canary can-ary inside or pale green and violet all wadded and quilted in little diamonds dia-monds and finished with silk cards precisely like Toms and Harrys except ex-cept for a little different shaping in thg seams made necessary by a difference differ-ence in the wearers form I This is not dull at any rate and Lady Colin Campbell had it would seem some moral support behind her when she wrote her famous advocacy of the weed for women which has caused so much ink to spill since FOUR OCLOCK I have just seen some tea gowns made for a beautiful American who adorns a noble title who has gone to I cast her refulgence on one of the German Ger-man courts There was among them a turquoise I blue satin that opened over a front of accordeonpleated white cloth crossed by bands of sable and the sleeves were formed of an enormous soft puff that dropped irregularly round the elbow and was Caught up and fastener on the inside of the arm Under this was a long close sleeve of white cloth that widened out over tho hand in a point that was bordered with fur It was delicious de-licious FLOniANE |
