Show n Queer Ii n S LJ M HEADGE H Dainty But v ji jin C 2 rf or 21 MER C AGAR JJ AR Straw Becoming B By HELEN FALCO Toques THE ERA OF INDIVIDUALITY T Adopted from Winter Styles Variations on the Napoleon Popular HILE much of the late spring WHILE W and early summer millinery looks queer to our unaccustomed unaccustomed unaccustomed tomed eyes it is at least a becoming queerness that borders on quaintness The general lines seem to tobe tob tobe be b adapted from the winter favorites viz the oriental turban the and the Gainsborough While the summer hats in no way resemble the winter hats one can perceive their basic principles One characteristic they the have in common however that labels them Immediately as s this seasons sea seasons seasons sons headgear and that Is the gen general general general eral line which they take in relation to the head Invariably all slant up upward upward upward ward and back unless it be the wide brimmed affair and these flare very Tery little some of them hanging in limp undulations about the face while others droop slightly at either side giving a very Tery evasive suggestion of the poke We Ya had thought that Napoleons heroic headgear had undergone about as many surgical operations as its lit little littIe little tle tIe constitution could endure but lo lothe lothe lothe the very first models shown are ab absolutely absolutely absolutely new variations of cutting this universally becoming and very Tery popular popular popular lar model made of every kind of ma material material material and combination of f materials the newest one being the Chanticleer so called from the one worn in Ros new play of that name recently given in n Paris Black velvet satin and leghorn tops taps faced with velvet of black deep purple claret gray bright blue or velvet and oc occasionally occasionally occasionally with satin its shiny sur surface surface surface face however does not go in so well with the simple richness of leghorn the combination resulting in rather too harsh an effect Often only the rim is of leghorn the entire hat being of shirred lace or chiffon As for hat trimmings again ones fancy may play havoc and still remain within the very Tery elastic pale of fash fashion fashIon fashion ion Aigrettes of every kind there are natural or artificial from long grace graceful graceful graceful ful undulating paradise feathers fe to split quills and cock cockades cockades cockades ades and pompoms Others are trimmed in x a flat fiat plaque of double faced satin ribbon pinned to the hat with a jeweled or 0 enameled Still others are trimmed with carved carTed beads drapes of black jet and strands of cut steel beads The prettiest ones perhaps and certainly the more elegant ele elegant elegant gant in appearance are those adorned With plumes either ither of the th same tone or a shade contrasting with the gown The hat must in all 1111 cases be of the same color if not of the exact tone of the gown goWn The trimmings are in inslight inslight inslight slight variation of this rule if at all what little contrast c there Is being only a touch as in a wreath of various hued flowers a variegated plume or touch of contrasting velvet or straw As for flowers the most eccentric vagary can be gratified Everything that grows from mosses and grains to whole rose bushes and evergreen trees These too are exquisitely natural in appearance being made cf of f silk velvet lace and ribbon The small field flowers have come into their own again and wreaths and gar garlands garlands garlands lands of buttercups daisies and long grass are tangled about the crown of leghorns Gold Goldenrod Goldenrod Goldenrod hops maiden hair hall and asparagus asparagus asparagus gus ferns are much in evidence mingled min mingled mingled as a background for tiny rose rosebuds rosebuds rosebuds buds heliotrope lilies of the valley Talley and hyacinths h Daffo Daffodils Daffodils Daffodils dils narcissus phlox wistaria both mauve and white pan pansies pansies sies and orchids are much In evidence while violets are seen quite exten extensively extensively but not as a trimming as for formerly formerly merly merb Rather they form whole hats or brims or are intermingled with pink roses or lilies of the valley Telley Another decided novelty Is the inter intertwining intertwining intertwining twining of tiny flowers into circlets to be used In place of a large buckle or flat fiat bow or chou thou Velvet is used on cn everything Ottoman and antique more moire come next in favor for facings and brims while or French felt are seen on many summer models In straws the more dressy hats are made of Milan and Neapolitan braids basket straw Japanese straw horse horsehair horsehair hair braid and Sax straw while for less formal occasions the faced hats of rough straw and leghorn faced in velvet moire and ottoman are very popular for street wear the coarse rough straws are great favorites Velvet and taffeta ribbon are com combined combIned combined very extensively with straw and flowers choux of straw and velvet forming the only trimming on some C 1 1 J Y if J 1 F fI 1 r fr 1 1 i f i M S im eE if 1 I 1 t r n j I HJ l li i 7 f 11 1 f i I z a v t i If j I I R ii Iy 1 4 I r 11 f ii x r I 1 r ri h s I 2 f i J C 2 I IJ J J tf I 1 1 7 f 11 b y I j M i m Xi if o iii J r r i t t r t ry r ri j c h i l t i f ii f 0 j jo o r f i L t 7 0 I i i f u j t I cle r f t liL 1 f f if fi l X I II I I G r I 9 t i s J i t t l lp 1 i r t 5 I il I 0 f r c clI s J W f f I It 6 Tf 1 I f i t 1 6 p ri rJ I i 7 f i l tt 3 I Ir J r u LI I 4 f J ori w V rm frt f V l t tJ t 4 o 11 1 5 r 1 1 i JI F E vt if i ti rJ N f y l i r i ti f f S j t r X f i t f h i r r i r J I If y r Y sr dl C r l 0 a c t Cy 1 f r ai F Fr t I Id d i kt r 1 i lw a r It i 7 Se F G Sr s J 1 co jf L II if If t 0 r h h L t C E I I tf f 17 5 i r 1 N f i i Wi t r i i i if I It I i t I i t t g ff I 11 1 I r I I i f i T f It W 1 i f m it l li f rt J I i r rt I I I t c ii n f i j i I X 7 I i z i a C t 1 i if i H h il ilc r L c VA r F I 0 ulli r rn m i 9 r r rii ii 7 0 If 9 I I A I ii i i 1 11 I ih I X 9 a I hM r J i j VI L rj 1 3 1 t t t u d r 1 I 7 0 h lJ il r fi F 1 Jf f f fc 1 c r A 1 11 Y T 2 I r W ir i t l h f 7 ri fj r F r W 1 r V 4 A Y 1 i iZ V v r E Z r F rn MM ft r f 7 i m 1 eu A S r D l j t 1 i t t fj f L F f r JjR t I c tt lJ J VI i 1 A it 1 J 11 1 J i f fn n jC z 11 II 1 Jl vs Kf 1 I 0 r J t f j l X A I II k Ii h q ii tj tjI I I x IJ i Z Z w g I 4 1 r ry v i f fL b tt y L i ii fi j 1 ro 4 r ti 1 fit I lt I r r fi r O 4 j l J L Le e he i Ji s i it I z t r t t Vi J JI Jf ds L 0 I a i 3 t I r ra rr rj ra f r r r l 4 7 t J i fi f 1 J t i f f i jiL li rt rI J f i it iL f f 1 tl j i i a f ji I rC 11 J I Z 4 1 J f f 1 J 1 r o j i J I ie Sn y 1 Y l 5 3 f i i 1 Ji Iti f f 1 pl c if i lI c rw r x 5 r y ti J a r f 1 s s y Fa FaA A r r rr a r a I of the tailored hats Black velvet faced with orange straw and black Mechlin and Chantilly lace over pink are decidedly new and smart Plumage is going to be a very prom prominent prominent prominent feature in the summer millinery Whole birds with long tapering tail feathers two heads with long crooked beaks crossed together and other equally made pieces used on the hats with other trimmings are ar causing much consternation to the Whole families of dear little birds being poised on on one single hat The pompom is here again and ostrich trimming that thatis I is soft and formless is made in insets sets to toI I encircle the crown and form a long quill at the side These j I differ from a regular plume In that j I they are thin and supple and they are like a quill inasmuch as they are poised straight out from the crown Very stunning but not always be becoming becoming becoming coming are the combination such as black and orange black and cerise black and while others are both smart and pretty gray and scarlet is very attractive while black and buff can be worn with almost every costume as can black and white which is to be used for the very dressy hat as well as the tailored and street hats Some charming arming c and inexpensive evening hats that can be made at home and worn with evening or for formal formal formal mal afternoon gowns are of tulle velvet and plumage or flowers By changing the band it will match any gown if it one does not care to wear black and white It is made by swathing Swathing swath swathIng Ing a fine wire frame in write or ecru tulle doing the th brim first beginning at left side and winding around until it overlaps In front like an Arabs gabs turban the end disappearing beneath the which holds the aigrette aigret in place The crown Is then swathed and a wide band of velvet placed loosely about It and the and aigrette added If made of white tulle the bands and aigrette should be beof beof beof of black or yellow green or pink with aigrette either of black white or orto orto orto to match the band Ecru is perhaps more serviceable as it can be worn worna a whole season without much fresh freshing freshing freshing ing but is not of course quite as dressy in appearance although very pretty A band of black or golden brown velvet with black aigrette would be exceedingly smart while one could use certain shades of blue cherry or orwine orwine orwine wine color for the band in which case instead of the aigrette a huge cluster ot op grapes cherries or large white field daisies with black centres would be quite handsome Tulle is now made with a waterproof finish so it does not perish in damp evening air Quite new and decidedly pretty are the simple flat low crowned hats of lace or net The ma material material material is swathed or shirred about a large low oval crown rown and the wide brim is bound by an strip of smooth straw such as Milan or horsehair or leghorn They have very Tery little trimming other than a wreath about the crown or long streamers placed over it and falling to the waist waistline waistline waistline line One usually pretty pattern hat was of ecru lace with natural color leghorn brim About the crown nestled down downIn In the lace were alternate light and dark pink roses Over the top of the crown and tacked t at its base above either ear were two lands bands of black ribbon extending from base of crown and falling over edge I of brim were two long loops and sev several several several eral shorter ones that hung to the shoulders while two long streamers hung quite to the hips Another coy hat of more mor Huffy fluffy ap appearance appearance appearance for wearing with a lingerie frock was made like a childs bonnet bonneta a R great billowy crown that nearly cov covered covered covered ered the brim which was made mede of a avery avery avery very full frill of lace about four Inches in width Encircling the crown was a wreath of tiny pink rosebuds Inter Intermingled intermingled intermingled mingled with blue At one of the shops one of the cerise types was shown A large flat affair of rough straw quite uniquely trimmed L med The brim rolled upward a trifle on the left side displaying a large flat bow sewn flat fiat against the The novel feature lay In the adjustment of three n long black quills that were passed through the crown from left to right lying flat fiat on the brim Above them encircling the crown was a R band of black velvet The placing of trimmings beneath the crown Is very chic and becoming as it emphasizes the contour of the therace face race by contrast of ot the straight lines oL of the quills being placed horizontally above the oval of the face Another shown at the same shop was a black Chantilly lace over pink shirred over the of a bi corne A drape of the lace over pink satin was about the crown and a large plaque of little moss roses and buds held the rolling brim of the crown al almost almost almost most directly in the ilie front The general utility hat in upper left lefthand lefthand lefthand hand corner Is of Kings blue straw adorned with a aa drape of black velvet and two large varicolored wings shading from through gray to greenish yellow The brim is rolled and the hat tilted slightly upward and back The second hat is a simple girlish model of white Japanese straw trimmed with large yellow roses with foliage At the back a THE FAMOUS CHANTICLEER Having Is a Wide Vogue among American Women W omen M Rostand is Responsible for little to the left is a flat fiat bow of burnt bU Dt orange velvet ribbon In the upper corner is isone isone isone one of the modified It differs in that the crown is more mote dome shaped and the brim turns up more over the face than at the side sid It Is made of Neapolitan tan braid with a tangle of purple and white clematis with leaves and tc ten tendrils i drils about the crown Many of us will welcome the str stra 7 v toque that is always in good form ra v r a 1 almost any style of costume O Oio 01 a 0 shown in a very exclusive shop is of f gray horsehair with two rich moos gray plumes that are almost green la lathe i the shadows They The are fastened o othe the crown with a of pears pear 3 and cerise velvet which is twig twi 1 about the crown The greatly resembles tLe the Chanticleer which is the latest sensa sensation tion from Paris The one in the illustration s abo t the largest adaptation n of the Napo lapo oa a that has been offered It is of bl bla i rt i velvet and trimmed with a tall glos black brush aigrette In the back t brim rolls nearly to the crown and i slightly pointed in tL tt centre who he hein I in the front the point is cut out mi m ma ming ing a triangular opening in the bil h which shows the crown This is a aI I great Improvement as an abrupt y v turned up surface su ace is very trying t j I some faces and the crown ShOW 2 beyond the brim gives perspective si a ait l lit I it were The Chanticleer differs from this is in Ll that it is a trifle shorter from ear rc t tear tear ear and the back and front of t 1 brim roll up over the crown till the y nearly meet all the way thus maki makia makij a very narrow almost straight ht hit with not the slightest suggestion cf of l I a corner or a triangle Instead of tL aigrette a tall cockade very Tery much like the of the lordly cock wave defiantly to the winds The hat to the left is one of the sunshade variety and very picturesque for country or seashore wear It is made of net black blacko or lace shirred onto 0 a wire frame with a transparent rim rin of horsehair of a soft lightblue that does exquisite things to the com complexion co About the crown is a tangle of small flowers blue hyacinths HE 3 s of the valley Talley and smilax leaves aLl arl tendrils The distinguishing lies in the black velvet ribbon tit tint t It passes over the crown hanging off the tho th brim in ih long streamers New this summer is the ides ideh ide t of cf turning up the hat directly in front froli Most faces require the soft undu tion of a wide supple brim as a ba bar ground however For those who ca c c wear a severe hat the one I is very modish It is made of gloss glos Neapolitan braid braid tl front being held to the crown by a band of velvet This forms a background for the three large yellow poinsettias and lilies of d the valley Talley that are placed with studied carelessness about the crown cr wn The in the lower corner shows the universally becom becoming beta bec r ring ing type of Napoleon It is a model that can be worn the year around with almost any costume It is cf d c f deep moire faced wil i black blac satin and has poised at tl ti t back a little to the left three beaus ful glossy plumes of a deep gra green shade with black ribs TL placing of the plumes is excellent but bit while It looks very simple really re requires r quires a to adjust V soft drape drapa of tulle fir f s sin In the space between the 1 crown and the brim Another type belonging longing b to the same class is depicted in the lower hand corner and for women who can wear unique clothes this is very Tery stun stunning fi fining ning in iIi its masterful severity Tl Tt tip |