Show II Niceties Men Should Know About b O 0 man should primp but primp primping ink ing and keeping a 0 well or ordered ordered ordered N dered appearance are two wo dif dlf different different ferent terent things There is a sad lack of knowledge among men menas menas as aa to how to wear near their clothes and how to preserve the appear appearance appearance appearance ance and nd It is not how much you pay for your clothes that always gets the beat results when you cu put them on I Its Ifa knowing how to put them on that of makes one man roan with less leES costlier garments outshine the man who pays the price and lets let it go at that True that good quality in clothes is an essen essential essential o of shape retention and reliability of fabric and good taste and style are ara always commendable but there thera are other details in wearing clothes that are necessary necessary essary essat to achieve the best b effect Note these little details carefully c and put them into practice and you will be sur mur surprised how much better your clothes thes will retain their fit and how hoF much longer they will last lut These things take taka very nry little extra time and cost no more and really are worth while whatever your position in society s Clety or your inclination to I adhere strictly to the fashion edicts i iF First F rat see that hat the coat c t that you ou select i Is an easy full slue artistically draping the body and conforming to the general I lines JInes Coats no longer cling to the body i ithe they the are supposed to hang gracefully i draping rather than fitting The coat should cling at the collar and shoulders and nowhere else The coat collar should expose about of ot an inch of or the linen collar and the sleeves show JIb ow about as aa a much of the shirt cuff when your arms are in normal position When you ou g get t a new suit keep th the coat but buttoned buttoned toned most of the time for the first week we k that you wear it AH All garments require a II week to drape and adjust themselves to l r figure A new coat should be worn buttoned button d until it sits litS i and fits nu perfectly then it may be worn I unbuttoned If It you ou are in the habit of keeping your our coat buttoned the greater part port of the time leave the first button unfastened to give lve grace to the coat and at t the same time show a bit of the waistcoat This is especially smart when hen you wear a fancy tancy waistcoat Do Doriot hot riot start buttoning your coat from the top button downward Buttoning from the top creates a strain across the shout shoulders shoulder ders dera that will have a tendency to make the garment sag and wrinkle in time no matter how well welt it is constructed By starting to button at the bottom the strain is removed When buttoning a coat graap th the lapels labels firmly firstly and gently draw them item forward This gives the garment tha the correct balance prevents crease and insures a smooth front These details will prolong the life lite save many pressings and enhance materially the looks of ot ones one coat The waistcoat should be form fitting and ind cling snugly ly to th the tho neck leek and must mut not bulge or fall away from the shirt or Dr collar The trousers should have a arise Arbe arise rise of from 14 to 15 Inches with aman a aman man aan of ot normal height and with proper poper length of Inseam width in tn symmetry s with form Trouser cuffs should be taU tall tailored ored oed and not roughly up With out cuffs they should be a comfortable ble length so they do not wrinkle at the I bottom When sitting always pull them thera up slightly so that they the do not bag at ot atthe otI atI I the knees Shirt S should fit at the tho collar band and should not gape gap nor bind Should b be wrapped rapped close to the form formIn In the trousers to prevent bulging In fn front Sleeves to be bo of ot comfortable length so as not to impede impe e the free tree action of the hands Cuffs should be rounded links and show about three fourths of ot an an n Inch below the tha coat e at sleeve when the arms are In Ju a hanging banging position po l tion The collar should fit so 80 that the top of o it will lie close to the neck fit the shirt band snugly and should not be more than of an inch larger larer than the shirt band Neckwear whether scarf nd or folded should be one ono and to two and inches wide tied taut to produce a small knot lad and nd graceful fold told when worn with a double fold collar knotted a trifle looser when worn with witha a wing or poke collar With standing collar the wide scarf is preferable Reg Keg Regulate Regulate ulata so that at both ends of the scarf are ara of the tha same Earns length when tied The band should be drawn tight tl ht on the collar but not so o tight as to telescope the folds set the collar firmly in Its proper place Scarf pin should be two Inches below the knot and scarf clasp should be fastened to both aprons of ot the shirt front String ties tia should be tied tight to the collar with both loops tied tight to produce a pinched knot Both the ends and the loops should be bethe bethe bethe the same length This effect is easily cully obtained by getting the tie tio of 0 commensurate commensurate length with the collar Half Halt hose should should fit snugly and the center seam scam should run up from the center of ot the foot tobt and back of ot the leg lee Garter to be worn WOnt adjusted to the inside center of the the leg le and drawn taut enough to keep the hose unwrinkled Shoes should be comfortably fitted with the prevailing shape of the season If It lace laco shoes ara worn use the narrow laces tied in a small knot The full bows are no longer considered good form torm for tor men since be being b bIng being ing worn by the ladies ladles In the hat use ure judgment In getting the tho crown and brim to tb conform with your features Any nY salesman will assist you in this matter if It you are hot bot sure of or yourself as aa they have hayo no r motive in giving you an unbecoming shape Never get a hat bat too large rather a small emaIl one conforming to the shape of your bead hood to be worn jauntily and slightly back on the fore tore foreHead forehead Head should be roomy and find comfortably fun full at least one size sue larger than the suit measurement Col Colto Sir J to hug the linen collar and sit alt corn com comfortably co tenably on the suit collar collaz Body Bo y to hang han gracefully and not to bind binds any anywhere anywhere where here fitted from the tM shoulder and draped from the arm pits phi balanced so that the body is 18 in tha the center of the garment Fronts to hang bang straight and boxy b The Th spring overcoat can ean be worn with one or two of the lower buttons closed Gloves Glove should s be a full size else larger than the circumference qt of the band hand measurement I I |