| Show f I A nr 1 i v A Typical A cal Chi Chine 1 f 4 invented the V Over two thousand years ago a Chinese woman Kimono introduced the cultivation t who a another woman loom Isom and it was Rich South Carolina This article describes the Richly Y in silk sill h of the wo worm in and a how the they dress Em Embroidered 1 b Chinese women clothes worn by H woner wonderful Y eh Ina in In S Silk like men or tr t- t fJ 1 and Silver 1 t it G Comfortable Q rt a bt e t. it L o- o I 0 i r 1 I V J 0 l r t J- J t I r. r I J- J r i i O P. P tf J p 1 T Gt 0 t i t A t t J t j 1 r f f fY Y VS 4 If to 1 i J i t j- j C r t J II f t. t l. l r P i t 0 L o At I- I Ii 4 r i 11 c t w S p i 1 jp n nI I rte 4 v Pattern Lines for Cutting Out Chinese Trousers Y Worn m with the Kimono r How to Make MaIe the Charming Channing Coats S and Trousers Now Irv I j 4 n. n Elected to Fashionable Fashion Fashion- Fashionable j I able and Artistic i fi i Popularity 0 j I By Ethel Thurston p 7 1 N the tho year ear of Our Lord 1920 we hear much h of T IN the achievements of women woman Even the b bomb mb throwing Bolshevik takes a back seat on the tho tenth page pae of the daily papers while the spotlight spotlight spot spot- 1 J light of the thc right hand column of or the first page paso iJ CJ exploits the fact that a woman has been elected f. f J. J f m A d. d IJ t t g 1 7 f fv vr v J I r iI yr Pi Fig Two r One p t J t Diagrams Illustrating the Cutting of a C Chinese inese Kimono t Ji to Parliament or accomplished some other wondrous wondrous won won- f r r drous thin thing And yet 2650 years before the birth of ot Christ Chrls ii a 1 woman and an as Empress of the C Celestial kingdom king king- door dom invented the loom and loom and that in China we C regarded d as anything thing but emancipated J till the Chinese republic gave women the vote rote ote long before certain states of the free freest t country country coun try in the world passed the suffrage franchise 9 ff This inventive c Empress was Ling Si-Ling wife of renowned the renowned Emperor Huang tt Moreover she i began the cultivation of the mulberry tree treD and t the growing of silk worms which in the ages since tr have hac made China the Mother of Silks Sills tt It may also be 00 remarked that another woman many numy years afterwards introduced the cultivation r of If silk worms and also the tea plant in the colony of of South Carolina Her name was Eliza Pinck Pinck- ncy ney and she was ws the mother of ot Gen Chart Charles Pinckney who fought in the Amen Amerl r can Revolution Devolution Indigo w was as as also first planted in 4 South Carolina by Eliza Pinckney when she sho was wa J r El Eliza a Lucas a n girl of lG 16 and under her instructions 11 I Hons the industry reached a point where 1 worth of in indigo was ship shipped d from the port of ot I Charleston to Europe and Asia to be manufactured 1 lt i tuned into dyca dyes Much of ot this in indigo igo o found i its ita f tr way W ay to China to be us used d in dying the silk fabrics fabric mn made e possible os ble by the invention ion of the almond almond- eyed Ling Si-Ling who had hd inspired tho the I Chinese Chines e c to the thc w weaving of gorgeous silks dyed in the f. f 1 ful ul vegetable d dyes es with which the carl early Chinese A l experimented ant and aud b brought ought to to toa a marvelous man perT per per- J t f faction ant and range of color T 1 I v i Eventually social y caste was indicated in China j f K by color DUrin During the Chow dynasty the Emperor I J wore wore yellow to signify his Celestial descent and und f. the radiance of or the tho sun un to which his imperial rJ E 4 presence N nce was likened th the nobility I Wore light ht ht or fo f- f f w o r. r tt J riI I J t t I i ht J w rit V r rv ri r- r a i SA I y ono Kin ith f 4 Chinese V r-V Chinese f rand r r- and Irv Silk s' s e err 94 I dark red the common people white while an and servants and slaves cs dark clank brown These distinctions were CT strictly adhered to during the Tong fong and Sun Sung dynasties but during the ying Lioa and Yuan d dynasties the colors were cre changed and different flowers and designs employed ed to mark the caste The clothes of or these periods were long IonS loose Rowing flowing garments consisting of an upper short- short section and a lower long onS' onS skirt The skirts were ere pleated onto the waist Women wore woree 1 e extremely long IonS skirts embroidered red with lotus sacred lilies roses ewes or peonies From the waists hung nung streamers of silk from which dan dangled lcd tiny gold bells that made a tinkling sweet sound as 85 the wearer moved When the conquered the Chinese Chines durin during the Ching dynasty they forced them to adopt the Manchurian dress and the Chinese costume of ot today is an adaptation of the Manchu and Chinese The Chinese men obeyed the edict and nd changed the style of their clothes but held that their women omen and children should wear tho the Chinese dress Hong HODg Zung Zen was the mightiest Chinese statesman and Ching Su Sn Tso th the Manchurian n conqueror gave him high higl office Through Hong Zung Zen's Zens influence the women and children were permitted to cling to the Chinese costume However when death released a Ch Chinese nese from the rule of the Manchu Emperor he was laid out in the garments of the ancient Chinese The Tho Manchu women dressed like the themen men and and it is doubtless due to that influence that the Chinese costume of today todar consisting of trousers and the straight kimono fastened to tho the left si side e is the accepted dress of the Chinese women Tho The comfort of or this costume has MS invaded the boudoirs of Europe and America a The Chinese trousers and coats are capable of the most picturesque interpretations and md may be fashioned of brocade in combination with plain colored satin crepe de chine or crepe meteor They may also be reproduced in varied tones of ot the same fabric The Chinese g garments garments are easily cut ut Their charm and beauty lies Hes in the color combinations employed ed The trous trousers rs are arc not difficult to make Five feet of or cloth or one and two third yards are arc required for a woman of medium height To make a pair of Chinese trousers ers fold your ou goods ie lengthwise and d cut Ul in l two lo o pieces as indi indU r c t 0 J f R 4 L r fr t f T 4 r rV t r 3 s t 1 T i 4 0 i if L Lk i f k c in n the tho pattern lines for cutt cutting cut cut- t tin ting g gI out Chinese trousers Sew I on th the dotted lines ant and att attach ch to a waistband as shown in the sketch Th These c trousers are most effective r when bordered tit with n contrasting 6 col color r either cither matching the border of oC the characteristic Chinese closing clos S ing of ot the kimono or the kimono if that is made of ot a different color from rom the fhe trousers The patterns of or the kimono are quite easy eagy to to follow and unlike the usual kimo kimono kimoto o blouse employed em- em employed for our w stern dresses arc cut on the straight of or the goods both back and front The width of your our material will govern whether you put a scam down m the centre front an and back The The directions for cutting a. a kimono arc are give given by a n Chinese lady as follows Take eight feet of or cloth fold one en end two and one-half one feet fedt e t long Ions and cut a piece of or the kimono like Fig Fib 1 Fold the material again ain and cut another piece just like jM r t. t a r. r v. v 0 I rl t l lr i r t tI I t i t. t l r i t i I Fig 1 1 How Design Markings Arc Are Introduced 1 I i I n it When these pieces are unfolded ed they loop look like Fig 3 Another piece for the lapped side is 15 needled needed and that will be shaped like Fi Fig Z 2 First sew the backs together then sew Fig 2 on the left front Next sew the sides together including sleeves Fig 4 A shows the appearance of the finished garment Fi Fig 5 indicates th the fastenings which may consist of braid loops and ami fancy buttons or if it you ou wish to be consistent awl J adhere to Chinese fastenings cut one-half one inch strips strips-of or your material on the bias bins Fold these strips four times until you have bave a narrow narro v. v tape tapa 1 I i r cc i kr k h r yiV t i 0 r f 1 Y L r V L FW X Jf 4 t lE I. I f g tia j 4 Sf- Sf fc y ft i 4 yv Jj t W W c J Jr I r A tali r i 1 IT J y v W W- W p pr r lt r r rI I t tf f r r la lar r v 1 r rI I Syr t 1 te r r y O l o p o p p o o f J f C 1 oJ t. t I r. r 7 Fig g Four r r Fig g I This tape may then be knotted or rolled into buttons buttons buttons but but- tons and loops of or graceful design The fastening mn may be made extremely ornamental ornamental ornamental orna orna- mental b by accenting it with gold silver or silk tassels that ma may be e c bought ready made or fashioned fash Lash from metal or silk fringe To make a tas- tas cc Eel cut a piece of crinoline or buckram two inches deep peep p b by three inches long Cover this with silk or velvet in any shade desired Then place over this another piece of silk or velvet et allowing th the first color cotor to show a 1 little above it Next sew across the lower edge a n strip of fringe letting the top of the fringe ringe overlap the second piece of material Now fold the crinoline e rand land sew it to together together to- to together gether overlapping it about one inch making makin a around around around round or 01 flat fiat tassel On a kimono of silver and blue brocaded faillo faille silk silver tassels were mounted The first cov cor co covering ering crinS' of the crinoline was sapphire blue velvet t tand tand and the next jade gr green n satin then silver ilver fringe fring was vas attached N The sleeves and fastening fastening- were outlined with silver filver an and this exquisite kimono was Wern with jade green grecni satin salin trousers r bordered with blue s silver and ond green to thatch match tho the color sequence of the tassels h Magenta and und silver brocade combines beautifully beautifully fully with ere blue green en blue trousers to produce a aI I 1 1 I picturesque s que ue Chinese costume and ami the light gh er pastel shades of plain ground crepe de chine 5 s sand aw tj and meteor develop exquisite Chinese cost eS The vivid id shades o oa black bInd combined combated with gold Cold spirit 0 01 f silver in with the arc are more keeping keepin the Orient a For summer wear borders of chintz in Cb p design may be effectively cly mounted on t tand crepe A design combining g rose rase old blue and black is especially effective on n sra gray crepe crept s I The he Chinese costumes illustrated display f b loveliness of Chinese Chine e metal and silk J combined with nigh high lustre satin satin |
