Show Ir j r 4 t A A Milkman In Seville Prepared by the National Oeo Geographic Society Washington ton D D. D C f ITH the revolution a matter mat mat- W WITH W ter of history Seville Se which a majority of visitors who tr travel trel el down from Madrid and up from Cadiz call The Most Spanish h City In Spain has settled down to I. I Its Us usual routine fit But In Seville now scintillating now sleepy Is discovered a Spain not of the drowsing past nor yet of ot the bustling present It Is an India crIminate mingling of both bout Abiding AbidIng Abiding Abid Abid- ing through the centuries here on swept Sun slopes the city has bas built for tor Itself a dwelling place of traditions traditions but they are not a high wall hedging It about Seville Se tal takes es pride In her glorious past treasures It becomes frankly arrogant about It at times but her chief love Is life Ufe and the living of It Her lichen covered churches she holds Inviolate Not one cobweb may be removed nor a single crumbling crumbling crumbling crum crum- bling block of hewn hand-hewn stone be but across a well- well paved avenue a steel steel fabricated office building must Incorporate every convenience con of the modern builders builder's art art Laden donke donkeys s 's ma may and do wandel wander wan der del willy-nilly willy through er e every downtown downtown down down- town thoroughfare but the driver of a limousine must keep his e eyes es open open for tor way one street street signs and his ears alert for the time traffic o officers officer's cers whistle Seville's history Is as colorful as one of or the silken shawls that drape the shoulders of her dalke eyed dark ed senoritas senoritas seno seno- ritas as varied as the moods of her ber people as Interesting ting as any story may well be that depicts the romance romance ro roo ro- ro mance of or a town which has lived through the tIle rise glory and decay of half bait a dozen nations M The city's actual genesis Is lost l hidden n by the obscuring veil veU which I shrouds much of the remote past of the Mediterranean and which was only slightly torn aside by the ad adventuring adventuring venturing Phoenicians and later by bJ bythe bythe the warrior-merchants warrior of Carthage But there was a Roman Seville Of Ot that ancient period definite traces remain Some of the crumbling crumbling crum crum- bling bUng walls of the city were built bulIt under the direction of or the Caesars The following the fall rail of Romes Rome's western empire lingered for fora a brief three centuries In Seville The Jews too from behind Byzantium Byzantium Byzantium came here to have tb their Ir home hume rose to positions of or power endured grievous persecution passed but left carved memories of ot their stay V Gypsies Still There Likewise the g gypsies came here and here bere they yet remain crowded t together gether In noisy little and big families families fam tam Hies in Triana the ragged suburb of 1 Seville across the Finally the Moors possessed Seville One must say Bay finally because the I city remains today something of 01 a 0 Moorish town Saint Ferdinand brought It within the Christian fold rold some seven centuries ago ngo but all his might could not wipe out the Orient L I The picturesque Santa Cruz t i riot of ot Seville with Its narrow 1 j Brooked crooked streets and roofed flat t r companionable houses bouses has hns changed rr r r very little In the last thousand l years The cH city's s famous and equally beloved GIralda Is Is today s today A much the same as when a Moorish r t architect completed It In 1190 1136 and the time white robed followers of Mo Mo- hammed use used d It as a minaret from which to call caIl the faithful to prayer But Seville dwells dwelIs not overmuch f In reminiscences She reverses her herI herr r I heroes of ot olden time but It Is the thel l heroes of ot today odny that occupy her thoughts and newspapers Annually r she devotes ninny many holidays no clays In obeisance t lance sance before ancient glories but the I days before and after are spent In widening her narrow streets to accommodate accommodate net ac ne- ac- ac t a rapidly Increasing motor motor mo mo- tor trat tra traffic fife fc and In building steel and t concrete office buildings wherein to I house her ber expanding ever commer commer- vial enterprises She points ponts with pride to where f the caravels cara of ot the New worlds world's anchored In the Gun Gun- conquerors but barel barely stones stone's i river u It electric cranes strive away throw throwaway 1 the day long with vast cargoes to tu toh tood tuH from the earths earth's four rOUf corners H od nd d 1 I Nc Alcazar azar the old Moorish palace rebuilt to house bouse the splendor of the theof of 21 kings re remains courts i i i much the same as ns it was seven se cen cen- I tunes ago ngo but Immediately across the street the new Alfonso XIII hotel hotel hotel ho ho- tel transplants one straightway to the luxuries of up-to-date up Paris or London or New York ork Those fortunate Individuals who come to southern Spain armed with letters of ot Introduction to high officials om ls and wealthy families go away with glowing accounts of the sumptuousness sumptuousness sump sump- of life of the lavish hospitality hospitality hos hos- accorded l visitors and of ot the very modern manner of living In InthIs Inthis inthis this only superficially superficially- modernized cI city t Other earnest seekers after local color who visit Seville and In their desire to know their Spain live among the Sevillanos endure the Inconveniences of modest Spanish homes spend long hours In crowded cafes to engage In en endless less discussions discus discus- discussions with the talkative ever hab hab- attend frequent festivals and bullfights These folk foll carry away awaya a vivid vId glowing picture of a Seville Se en Desta fiesta colorful colorful rather noIs noisy highly picturesque o Average Income Is Puny Only In rare Instances does the Hie foreigner come to know the true home life of the There is not much mone money per capita In Seville these days To be sure certain certaIn certain tain of the city's it s families are ore Im lm- Immensely we wealthy and live In to the st style le of ot oriental potentates and occidental occidental oc oc- oc- oc plutocrats while foreign residents are forced for appearances appearances' appearances appearances' appearances appearances' appear appear- ances' ances sake to struggle along ht fit a similar pace puce n But t such folk are a statistical handful Fully three- three fourths of the towns town's population lives lI and has Its being and Is wholly happy on an nn Income of around a dollar dol lar Jar a day per person In many cases this Income must cover the needs of an entire family and some of Seville's families need much But somehow there Is al always always ways enough left over for the men men- folk to afford a few hours each evenIng evening eve eve- ning with convivial nI friends In a n favorite favorite fa fa- fa coffee shop and to secure a seat in the Hie sun at the Sunday bullfight and for the numerous children to purchase penny sweets as occasion deman demands s from the howling huckster who passes the thedoor thedoor door each morning accompanied by congenial donkey laden with sticky lusciousness and for the women of the family to ha have hae e a new Imitation tortoiseshell tortoise comb a cobwebby lace I mantilla and a pair of silk this stockings stockings this last because the weaving wea of silk slIk hosiery has hns In recent recent recent re re- cent years ears become one of Spain's leading manufacturing Industries The people of Seville blend paSt pasi and present In their dress and In Inmany Inmany Inmany many of their customs The high Spanish comb and lace mantilla of olden times are still worn here perhaps per haps hags more generally than In any other city of ot Spain But Dut the comb tomb combIs Is more often otten than not perched precariously precariously pre pre- variously In modernly bobbed hair I while the mantilla covers a beautiful ful ul head with filled Oiled decidedly up up- to-date to feminine thoughts and Idt Ideas Olives and Cork Seville Se Is an Industrious city Many of ot the city's activities revolve re about the production and shipment of pickled olives oll and various grades of ot olive oil for It Is the central point of distribution for the he richest producing olive-producing area In the world There Is an ancient local saying that the only genuine queen olives produced on earth are grown within seeing distance of the GIralda tower tower tow tow- er the soil and climate of ot this region region re re- gion glon being particularly well suited to the full maturing of this class of 01 the fruit Much of the cork Insulation found In our modern electrical refrigerators tors and many of the cork disks In Inthe Inthe Inthe the metal caps of ginger ale and ale and other other bottles bottles were shipped from the of ot Seville port The world acknowledges acknowledges ac ac- no wrought Iron more artistic than that fashioned by the gypsy families of Triana Seville's Industries however are not permitted to Interfere too radl- radl call cally with her moments of rest and relaxation Every coffee shop alII and there are scores of them In Seville Is a noisy stamping ground human human- ity-choked ity from earl early In the afternoon afternoon afternoon after after- noon until lon long after midnight Indeed Indeed In In- deed one may pass at any time dur duro Ing the lug the day or night and see gesticulating lath lating knots of men crowded about cup-cluttered cup tables talking talk talk- Ing |