| Show ORIGINAL MODELS Monas i i HARD TO OBTAIN Women Have Little Chance for Individual Dressing at atI I J Present tARE CARE IN BUYING NECESSARY New Wew Form Fonn of Oriental Skirt Now Popular Has Two Openings for forthe forthe the Feet and Is Closed In the i C Center I New Nen York The York The round merry of ot fashion continues Each of the great greut centers where women's apparel Is sold reports Deports an on extremity of business that has bas caused the work work people a u loss of and ancl threatened the heads of the departments with a nervous collapse J Naturally wow women en object to having r their gowns copied and there is a u hubbub in tho the apparel world concerning concern concernS tug ing the well established fact that the gown own which Is imported at nt u a cost cot of can be bought for HBO 60 60 as os a copy COP Jit bt t one of the wear ready wear shops There Is no remedy for this condi tion The woman who In insists upon wearing models that are exhibited In III Inthe inthe the early arly part of of the season must face fuco the fact tact that she is apt to be repeated through the streets or at parties i as though she the were Into Inti a u maze of mirrors There are ore experts who say that the remedy for this condition lies in the bands hands of the American designers Th They lay fa ay that 1 if the latter lutter will create hundreds hundreds hundreds hun hun- of gowns which are ore as agreeable And nd satisfying to women as the French rench models there will be a chance for In ia- Individual dressing This sounds well but there are great difficulties in the way of establishing It as os a 11 reliable theory An American designer who has made a rein ren reputation for tor her clothes Insists that che ebe does not design more than a II dozen models during a season and that she bopes hopes to sell a thousand gowns from these models There you OU are Knowledge of Gowns Valuable The knowledge of gowns their gowns their sll sll- their fabrics their various movements movements will will be first aid to those who are seeking not to be injured b by buying what they dont don't want It is trot cot necessary to purchase a gown merel merely because It strikes your our fancy foncy It t is a very good thing to see everything every thing than thUD can be arranged for tor your our inspection and then out of all of ot them choose the one which you like the best and which you think is the least apt to be worn by all your our neighbors If U you jou dont don't mind this duplication on very every side then buy the gown which suits milts you regardless of ot how often It will mil appear But the main thing to remember is that you must not be disappointed hi if It t tj i 1 1 I j This gown is la made of peach-colored peach crepe de chine and the girdle bodice U S held in place with a necklace of dark green beads which Is repeated inA In A girdle The slightly full skirt falls to the ankles where part of the hem hemS hem'S hemIs IB S turned Into a Turkish trouser effect for one foot to pass through youre you're oure not individual There are cerWin certain certain tain Win gowns that stand out as symbols of The first one that comes to mind IsA Is la fl p creation of a n oD piece one frock made In deep brown velours with a sll slight ht cascade effect down the side of ot ofa ofa a 11 moderately narrow skirt The distinguishing dis feature is a l wide chain made from gold mesh which from around the neck drops to the waist and ond seems to support an immense square of this gold mesh which looks for tor all the world orId like a womans woman's shopping shop- shop ping bag spread out across the abdomen abdomen abdomen ab ab- domen and attached to tho belt Another Is a n medieval gown of ot deep purple velvet with long angel sleeves sleeve and ond a n sweeping skirt that goes to the floor loor Another is a i coat coal suit in which the Jacket has hns a deep point In front and und anda unda a rippling bustle at nt the back bud There are a dozen duzen more but these come to mind more quickly than thun any of ot the others The Oriental Skirt It Is extraordinary how the Oriental skirt has hils held Its own Here It Is with us again and if iC one wanted to tobe to tobe tobe r be historical It would b be necessary to go back buck to the carl early clu days s 's of Paul then Mme Ime and then Callot CaBot and ancl write of their effort to tomake tomake tomoko make moko this tucked In Ori Oriental garment the fashion Tenn Jenny has clung clung- to It with a tenacIty tenacIty tenacity ity worth worthy of a better fashion She Sher r r rY Y This is i. the Colonial type of hat worn in the street It Is made of cardinal cardinal cardinal car car- dinal velvet with a frill and cockade of white grosgrain ribbon has not varied the rather ruther ugly line Une of ot the skirt movement which she adopted She gathers the skirt to the waistline turns the fullness at the bottom up to a tight narrow lining and then allows it to swing free from the legs as fiS the wearer walks This season she has produced a novelty novelty novelty nov nov- elty In the form of a skirt that Is Ismore Ismore ismore more truly Oriental than thon the other and in this she is side b by side with half a dozen of the great grent French designers desIgners designers de- de signers who have shown this skirt without any apology for its decided The distinctive feature in which this new skirt differs from the old one both being taken from the Orient is that it has two openings for the feet and is closed in the center Such n a atrick trick being adopted by smart society gives the eccentric designers a chance to do daring and remarkable things There Is one gown which has an opening for the thc left foot but not forthe for forthe forthe the right one There is another that has two shaped pear openings for the feet teet directly in front with the outer edges of ot the hem sewed together al al- allowing lowing the fullness to cling to the outside outside out out- side of ot the ankles The only eccentric trick that r re remains re remains mains for tor some French designer todo to todo todo do Is to put the opening for the right foot at the back buck and the opening forthe for tor forthe the left foot at the front Consider Considering ing lag what has been created one expects ex pests such a development of this particular par fashion at any moment There Is no use arguing against this thia new type of Oriental skirt for fOI evening wear It will prevail without doubt among those who like what Is new nw and what is graceful and there Is 18 no denying the exquisite grace of this type of Oriental skirt and the good setting it gives to a slim ankle and well shaped foot toot If It there only could be a law against women with br broad thick ankles and broad feet wearing this type of evening eve fling ning skirt we would be a better dressed nation but as yet no censor of fashions has arisen Callot's Gowns for America ThIs Tills development de of a new skirt hnot la Is lanot not the only interesting feature of fashions in this particular garment A certain set of designers Is endeavoring oring despite the cry for economy in In- material to establish a skirt that touches the ankles for the street and the toes for the evening A few of the best American designers design ers are back of this movement in an alliance with the French There are arc such leaders as Callot however who make no compromise but cut the hems of or their skirts to the for the street and an on Inch lower for the eve eve- ning Another piece of bravado is the way vay Callot gives sleeves to her gowns They are long sleeves or yes quite covering the arms as well as ns the back but they're made of a single piece of tulle and are lre attached to nothing more or less than n a moderately high girdle which does not reach the arms at the sides or back by several l inches She has one gown with oyster white sleeves and back of oC floating tulle made from a piece of tulle drapery that is banded for tor twelve Inches with apple applegreen applegreen applegreen green tulle and across the front of the wrapped satin bodice is a bias band of brilliant green crystal such as the queens wear in court costume Opposed to these evening evenIn gowns she he produces the robe of the stained stained- glass saints It Is 15 of ot swinging vel rt in cathedral colors and covers corers up the entire body from neck to heels with the exception of a n few Inches at the neck In front Copyright 1917 1911 by tho the McClure Newspaper per Syndicate |
