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Show Carefully Studied Line I Featured by Vionnet A smart collection presenting a carefully studied line with a clever and Intricate cut of the models la shown by Vionnet The waistline is very slightly raised, but there are many Indications of a higher line obtained ob-tained by Insertions, decoupes, and trimmings. A black crepe de chine frock wus really high wulsted with a belt In front only and a long skirt much shaped In front. Many boleros are seen. The fullness of the skirt Is In front, obtained by a shaped movement godet or plaits. Also a number of frocks and cunts crossed to the side with a dure on one side only or perfectly straight. The most characteristic feature of Vlonnet's collection is decorations of tiny "plls pinces," which in some cases are used over all tTle frock. Generally, however, these are on the bodice only, while the skirt has a few plaits In front These "pits pinces" form geometrical designs, checks, points, trntiRversal and vertical ver-tical lines. Another Important trimming trim-ming Is the one mode with drawn thread work, which Is also generally on the bodice nlone. In a very pretty beige crepe frock these form a round plastron underlined by many lines of embroidery. The necklines generally are finished with a small neck-hand, scarf or a Bmall collar on simpler models. Sleeves frequently are kimono shaped and cut In such a way that It Is difficult to see where the seams are. Frocks of a more habllle type, which often are in crepe satin, either black or bejge, or In printed crepe or chiffon, have bodices trimmed with large soft facings fulling so as to give a double Jabot effect with one-sided fnclng or with scarf collars tied In front or at the back. Again several frocks show a bodice draped In front In the manner of a hood with a corresponding corre-sponding godet In the front of the skirt. |