Show tu rr I Muhl a Land of ot Lito in Morocco Mor Ashore at vans About u u H H HH It n n M U j 11 11 11 u u u u u Special j A Morocco Sept 11 IL seaport of JIo Io rote rocc lies Ilea directly opposite Gib Gb Gibraltar 0 near the western end of ot the narrow strait that separ sepal separates separates ates Europe l from Africa a The Tho few miles between the two hI of ot cities s which any ferryboat the United States could make In thirty minutes minute occupies about five live hours In Inthis inthis this region oC or yesterdays where nil all things move slowly as In trine fine But Dut never novel was greater Creater contrast contra t truet net met In so ao short a Journey than that be br between tween tho the twentieth century as ns ex ax exemplified by b tho the English at Gibraltar pad In thu life 1110 of or this thin strange town which round reema ce to tu join hands with tho the Imme Immemorial Immemorial morial east cast of at Abraham Isaac Isa 1 o and nn Jacob Jacobi Somebody has hns aptly described I Tangier ns as A happy mixture between the Old Testament and the tho Arabian Arabia i Nights with tho the sliding gliding somewhat tar tarnished tari I i I To visitors who have hove not traveled In InC C oriental countries the first view ol ot II Tangier r 13 III extremely ly striking Like most Mediterranean ports It Is built I on oil terraces fashion I around n a bay but un IU lice 1110 the tho others It hall hns he no background i i of oC green hills trills Seen from a 11 distance under tho gowing African sky It has a 1 charm and beauty nil all Its houses In 1 straight lines liMa against tho the horizon tiled tIle minarets re reflecting i burnished sun and ana hero hone and there thero a royal roul palm standing guard over nil Il A concrete pier of re rc recent recent cent construction permits you to land with willi tolerable case when the tho tide is IE high but at low tide you must noire malIc u a picturesque rc que but bit undignified entrance to Morocco on the shoulders of or some sonio unclean Jew who rho ten to one when he hc pets gets you OU Into the worst wont of or the surf lurt threatens to drop dro you then and there theio i unless the price agreed upon for tor hla his Job be It doubled doubted Your our luggage goes goCY to W the ht custom house each piece by itself Itsell In tho thu hands of or whoever can grab Tab It and who refuses es to deliver It un until til m his exorbitant demand for tor the se sei lIel vice has lias been gratified Hut But t the tho cus customs customs toms lIma aw are remarkably unless guns gums and cartridges are among your lons in which ease case noth aoth nothing ing cur car C r bij be b passed and you 1110 held under surveillance until your consul comes down and vouches for Cor your 1 Entering through tho the Quaintest of or ancient Morocco gateways you find at once the most filthy mth and most fas place In the world Nearer to Europe than any other African city It u uis ItIs itIs is yet as os remote in ItiC M customs and manner of ot living as H any portion of or the tho tit farther futher cast where Mohammed prevails and the tiro unspeakable Turk has hns things nil his own owa way Fierce wicked faces scowl nt you under fez and turban The dark vile smelling alleys alles that answer far lor streets fairly swarm with dirty children each with shaven crown surmounted by n a sort of scalp lock look in which of hued wool are woven and knotted and nud shuffling women in yellowish white woolen balks halks whose heavy burdens and abject mien tell of ot slavery and un toll toil Tho The twenty thousand people that today Inhabit Tangier be belong belong besong long song to the middle I hl le ages in their usages usa cs 1 and ideas while from even cven farther back In the tho misty past post on their f camels by b WilY way of the desert comes n a ceaseless cea procession of the nomad successors of the Biblo patriarchs to pitch their tents on the borders bordeu of the tho town Were It not for a few tew flags of or European nations floating the tM ther r dull red Moorish banner on the tho fortress and the business like but generally useless Jetty Jelly which has been pushed out into the bay for the convenience of or foreign steamers the Tangier of at tho the i twentieth century might michl be bo tho the Identical cal al city olty o 0 a I thousand years ago How I can one ono describe it when all nil comparisons fall Of course the town is Ss completely surrounded by high hight walls and Inner walls ails divide It Into two dis distinct or fort oc 00 occupying occupying the western and most elevated section and the M or city prop proper er at the foot of the slope Excepting the foreign legations and consulates the residences of a n few fel wealthy mol mer merchants chants and half a I dozen French and nn English hotels the houses housell are uniform uniformly m mh ly h small mall an Th Char of or one story only on with low entrance and no windows on the street side Hoof Roof above root roof on a 11 succession of terraces t rites rises the town Its streets all so narrow and exactly alike nUke that the stranger has tho greatest great greatest Teat est cst difficulty In finding On ding hIs hla way about It II In is unsafe unade too without a well wel war recommended recommended recommended mended guide from the hotel who Is i not no so likely to prove NOVO a n highway robber and assassin in disguise as might one picked up at nt hazard on the tho street The Inns by the way wa are arc wonderfully good all things considered and mod rate irate In their charges as all compared with those across the Straits Most fa Ca favored favored ored of foreigners are lire the Hotel New NewYork NewYork NewYork York down near the landing the Calpe Continental Universal and Victoria near the center of oC the town and the Yule 1110 do de Paris on an elevation In the suburbs commanding wide views and cool breezes br e u Each Enoh hotel has several studios attached for tor the convenience of artists who are their constant patrons Never was wo town so 80 full of pictures to delight a painters soul coul Nowhere else con cnn be found lound such exquisite specimens of or Moorish art in tile the lie way of at ancient towers arches and lile ruin min such lIuch tapestries rugs russ and em embroideries embroideries of rarest elegance such luch cur curious curious ious loul mosques with 1 eaps of shoes liMes out nut outside side Bide their portals such guch luminous shad shadows shadows under which merchants merchant sit lit In front of ot their six shops beggars crouch to demand and aud cameta cam camI rig eta I file by In stately procession Of ot tho the various elements which make makeup makeup up tip the tho population of Morocco greatest gr interest attaches attaches to tho the Jews Jel and ne no negro negro gro slaves In Tangier alone are up upwards upWards wards of 01 six thousand Jews about a 11 third of Its population who under re restrictions restrictions which would woul soon exterminate exl any nn other oth r race have multiplied and prospered until In many ways was they have ha e become quietly but surely Burely the mss mas masters tees of ot their ostensible osten masters Tho The trade and commerce of oC tho the country are mainly In their hands hand and though the Moors hate hale and despise them and sub lub subject jest them to every Imaginable degrada degradation tion they yet ct recognize the Jews as M j such Ruch essential el members rs of ot society that t laws are Actively cthel enforced forbidding n a Jew ta t leave the Che he country under any an cir clr circumstances circumstances Outside of ot a n few coast I towns they are treated worse than I brutes and whenever It lies Ites In N their power they retaliate with greatest cruelty This Is often possible thanks to their superior shrewdness In money matters and tho the existence of o a debtors law which permits tho the Imprisonment of or ofa a it man mall until tho tine uttermost farthing of at athis his hia debt Is paid Today To uy Shylock finds many counterparts In Tangier and the tho prisons lire are crowded with stately uncomplaining Moors held In durance vile lIe In many cases till 1111 their death through petty debts owed I Ito to the tiro Jews On thu lie other hand a 0 Moor will wilt kill a 11 Jew Jow with as aa little scruple as us he would a 11 snake when whenever whenever whenever ever he can do po so quietly That Is easy enough as liS the son eons of or Israel are forbidden to carry arms and must make nil all journeys defenseless and on foot In Tangier Jews Jew a ate are allowed certain certain tain privileges which their farther Inland blond do not enjoy Then shops are more commodious than those of their neighbors neigh bors and they the own con can considerable real estate hut they tIle arcs I herded like sheep In their own quarter of ot the city and their dress Is rigidly regulated so that they thoy may be known at a II glance from tram tru true believers On Onno Onno no account whatever must mu t they enter any allY street In ht which a 11 mosque Is b situ situated atol atod they the cannot build bull places place of wor war worship warship worship ship for tor themselves and an to pass a holy hol house with shoes on the tho feet means menns certain death lenth That Is why nil alt the tilt Jews you Ou meet meat In Tangier rich ana nM poor are barefooted because so holy ho houses are everywhere Whenever er a n Jow Jew meets a 11 Moor he must promptly turn tum aside so as aa not to touch the tho garments of a follower of the prophet This is often orten Impossible In to Inthe the extremely narrow and always crowded streets and legAl punishment for the slightest sll offense of at a Jow Jew from cruel bastinadoing to death by hy fire The rho Tangier Is Ss a II fearful tearful one on hewn out of or the tho lie rocks In a n hillside hill hillside side The Tile cells cell each hardly as liS largo large an OR n a coffin 1110 entered by a II holt through which tho the prisoner crawls Ho no HoIs noIs HeIs Is chained to tho the wall and passes pas es his time line doing nay any kind hind of or work at nt which he Is skilful providing his hi friends bring blinK him the tho necessary He ltd H sells his bill wares to passersby or In any wa waho way he lie can and the tho proceeds go to swell sell the sum necessary for tor his ransom 01 or orto to keep him from starvation ns as there thero is absolutely no provision made for Cor feeding prisoners Tho The governor of at Tangier receives 1 the munificent salary sillary of at dollars a 11 year ear from the tho sultan lives lIell at Fez and amI to whom ho Is III accountable for the spiritual executive ex executive arid and financial affairs of the city Of 01 course he lie cannot exist on that paltry sun sum and keep Up the state ex expected exp expected p oC or him therefore It Is perfect perfectly ly Ir understood that he lie may rob his sub subjects subjects at nt will vIll sending pending to the black holey holes In the hillside anybody who has hall the tho temerity to resist the levy demanded The governor lives In great splendor and supports lIu potts a n numerous harem for foi he well knows know the uselessness of laying by for tora rora a rainy day Should he accum accuar accumulate anything beyond Derond his living It will surely be appropriated by his imperial Imperia master muter There Thero are many negroes In Morocco and an most moat of them are staves slaves but the servitude Is ik enid said to be of a mild char character character character acter and being perishable property the human chattels chatt ls are at least ab as altwell aswell well treated as aa the tho camels camela and aM don donkeys donkeys donkeys keys Every EIery city hn ha has Its Ita slave mar market market markot ket kot and the number of ot a n m s wives is only limited by b his means mean As ts 9 the females are re more industrious and ond tractable than the tho mates males they are Me con considered considered a good eod investment especially as ns their children are ore subject to sale rale and so BO It Is III not uncommon for n a Tan Ton Tangier gler gier Moor to have from fifty Oft to n a hun hundred hundred dred At the age of or twelve or fourteen th the sons eons 0 good families pos sees seso female slaves Their fathers and mothers present them with a n few Cell with which to themselves Just as nl Christian parents give their boys dogs and ponies Tho The slaves are aro brought by caravan from from Irom three thre thousand to four thousand every year and sold In the city markets along with sheep and fowls Yet It Is considered no disgrace to be the tho child of oC a II slave mother The Tho present sultan was tho the offspring of a II and the master who owned her and so BO was wall the lat late at grand sheerer of Some of the till handsomest women both In form torm and feature to be found In Morocco are who ho reign as ns queens In the harems of oC their lords Among the population of ot Tan Tangier Tangier gier tIer ore are alto also about four thousand Spaniards nil all of ot the lowest class There are ale also alio wild of th desert never seen loen without their long lone rifles Jetty Nubians nearly naked light Moors richly clad and strangest of all and most to be avoided are lunatic lantos The kitter lat kit latter ter ler are people p ople of at any ony or nation nationality alit who ho happen bapp n to 10 become mentally unbalanced when they are at once held he sacred by b the Moors t OIS who ho believe belle that Allah has baA withdrawn their souls to heaven heo n Thus tho the crazier and ond more dangerous a II man becomes or the more successfully he can feign insanity for any wicked purpose the greater ater his In and impunity from crime In ln Instances stances tane are arc numerous of at foreigners who have lao come como to serious perlous trouble through ignorance of or this hy by repulsing an nn ag aggressive canto anto thereupon bringing Gown flown upon their heads an nn Arabic curse to be he carried out at the point of ot the knife by nay nn native passerby with thu the sanction unction of ot the tho Rov government FANNIE n B WARD |